Nova Scotia Travel Guide

Nova Scotia resists characterization. Sure, upon entry it feels much more cultured and British than wild, a better place to buy a wool sweater and shoot a round of golf than to actually get your feet wet. But then you stumble upon the blustery, boggy uplands and crags of Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and hear the wild strains of some local Celtic band's fiddling emanating from a tiny pub, and you start to realize that people here are both tougher than you thought and full of spunk -- closer to Newfies, maybe, then Brits.

Yes, this is a place of rolling hills and cultivated farms, especially near the Northumberland Straits on the northern shore -- but it's also got a vibrant, edgy arts and entertainment scene in Halifax, a city possessing more intriguing street life than plenty of cities three times its size. The place has been called a "San Francisco in miniature" (though it's really more like a small Boston).

This is a province that has truly earned its name -- "Nova Scotia" is just grammar-school Latin for "New Scotland" -- with Highland Games, kilts, and more than a touch of brogue. Yet it also possesses rich little enclaves of Acadian culture, both on the far shore of Cape Breton and along the southwestern coast between Digby and Yarmouth. (Want to see a really huge wooden church in the unlikeliest of places? It's here.)

But this province is also a good vacation for the sort of traveler who's not yet ready to tackle Nepal. You can do low-key Sunday drives here 7 days a week without a traffic jam. The scene changes almost kaleidoscopically as you wind along Nova Scotia's roads: from dense forests to bucolic farmlands, from ragged coastline cliffs to melancholy bogs, from historic villages with tall ships lazing about at port to dynamic little downtowns serving up everything from fish and chips and a pint to the occasional gourmet eatery. Pretty much the only terrain Nova Scotia doesn't offer is, well, desert.

In fact, the province is twice blessed. Many of the best parts are compact enough that you needn't spend all your time in a car -- thanks, Halifax and the South Shore. Yet it has less than a million residents (and one in three live in Halifax), making most of it empty enough to provide lots of space when you're seeking a clear head and a nearly private beach. Even in the most thickly populated sections, it's still possible to feel a sense of remoteness here, of being surrounded by a big ocean and long, profound history.

Sightseeing in Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia is best appreciated by driving it. Cape Breton’s Highlands are ranked among the country’s top scenic drives; the Bay of Fundy—which divides Nova Scotia from New Brunswick—is one of the natural wonders in the world.

Eating & Drinking in Nova Scotia

With its own dedicated lobster and chowder trails, freshly harvested seafood is the province’s calling card, but drink is just as important: Nova Scotia boasts award-winning wineries, microbreweries, and distilleries, and was the producer of North America’s first single malt whiskey.

The northeast end of the Annapolis Valley, around Wolfville, is the home of the province’s burgeoning wine industry. Launched in 2012, Tidal Bay is Nova Scotia’s first wine appellation and a unique designation in North America. This aromatic white wine embodies the distinctive character of the region’s cool climate, making it an ideal pairing with local seafood. Named after the region’s dramatic tides, Tidal Bay wines follow specific standards but allow wineries to showcase their individuality. Each blend must consist of at least 51% of primary grapes like L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, and Geisenheim 318, with up to 49% from other approved varieties. To qualify as Tidal Bay, every wine must pass a blind tasting by an independent panel.

There are currently 14 wineries producing Tidal Bays. Now several decades in, vintners here are making their mark on the international wine scene, particularly with crisp whites, sparkling wines, and dessert vino. Among the best are  Benjamin Bridge ★★, Lightfoot & Wolfville, and Nova Scotia’s oldest, Domaine de Pre.

History in Nova Scotia

With European habitation dating back to 1605, there is much to see and savor in Nova Scotia. But, on the whole, its attractions are not of the “dusty artifacts behind glass” variety. Instead, visitors find interactive museums, compelling historic sites, and whole heritage villages. Some of the best: the Annapolis Royal, Fortress Louisbourg, Halifax Citadel, Ross Family Farm, Historical Acadian Village of Nova Scotia, and the historic fishing vessels in Lunenburg.

Nature in Nova Scotia

Whether visiting with whales, riding the ocean surf, or watching sea birds fishing for dinner, the ocean that surrounds Nova Scotia is both a natural habitat and ocean playground. Visitors can kayak hundreds of isolated, uninhabited islands and canoe vast wilderness preserves. Adventures on land include biking through the highlands, camping in a dark sky preserve, and photographing soaring eagles. Lace up your hiking boots to hunt fossils or ride the waves of the highest tides in the world. The options to explore here are endless.