Getting Around

Lots of people travel to New York, plop themselves down into Time Square, and never go anywhere else. They seem to fear venturing into neighborhoods that exist for purposes other than tourism.

You don’t have to be among them. By devoting just a few minutes to the basic geography of New York and its distinctive neighborhoods, you can immensely enhance your enjoyment of this multifaceted city. And once you absorb the highly logical organization of New York’s transportation system, you’ll find that you can zip from place to place with minimal fuss.

The Grid Plan of Manhattan

The city is comprised of five boroughs on four different pieces of land, only one of which is on the North American continent! When most people talk about “New York City”, however, they are referring to the borough of Manhattan, which is a long, narrow island between New Jersey and Long Island, bordered by the Hudson and East Rivers.

Finding your way around Manhattan is easier than in almost any other city because of the careful plan that was adopted for laying out the city’s avenues and streets. In the areas above 14th Street, the city fathers imposed a strict and unnatural grid upon Manhattan, leveling hills and tearing down existing homes to create straight, evenly spaced thoroughfares in all but a few places. The grid consists of numbered streets and avenues that cross each other at right angles. If you can count up to 100 you can get around this surprisingly compact island.

Streets in Manhattan are numbered and run from east to west. So if you’re on 23rd Street and wish to get to 42nd Street, you simply go 19 blocks north. To get from 80th Street to 75th Street walk 5 blocks south. The avenues of Manhattan run north to south with some bearing numbers and others names (which does complicate the picture but only a bit). Those that are numbered go from east to west with First Avenue being close to the East River and Twelfth Avenue on the far west side of the island. Interspersed between these numbered avenues are several named avenues, including (among others) Park, Lexington, and Madison. The named avenues live primarily on the east side between Fifth and Third Avenues in midtown and uptown. On the west side, Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth Avenues turn into Columbus Avenue, Central Park West, and Amsterdam Avenue above 59th Street.

The exceptions to the grid rule (all found below 14th Street) are the Financial District, Chinatown, Little Italy, the Lower East Side, Greenwich Village, Soho, and Tribeca. These southern parts of Manhattan were the first to be settled and therefore follow a haphazard non-system of the streets and alleys that curve and twist, sometimes doubling back on themselves (most famously in Greenwich Village where 4th Street collides with 4th Street). Because most of these southern section streets bear names rather than numbers (Delancey Street, Wall Street, Church Street), orientating yourself can be tricky. So it's important to carry a good map and to ask for directions when necessary. Even native New Yorkers can get lost down there.

Getting Around the City

Because most travelers confine themselves to Manhattan, I will, as well, in this section. Those traveling to the outer boroughs can be confident, however, that public transportation—subways, buses, ferries, or some combination of the three—can get you anywhere you wish to go in the city proper, whether it be the sandy shores of Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, or Yankee Stadium in the Bronx. The city’s transportation network is run by the Metropolitan Transportation Authority (aka the MTA); maps and schedules for NYC’s myriad transportation options can be found at www.mta.info.

Subway

I wish I could confine my transportation advice to just three words—"take the subway"—and be done with it. To my mind, the NYC subways are the single most efficient, rapid, easy, and affordable way to get just about anywhere you’d want to go in Manhattan,with the exception of going crosstown above 59th Street in Manhattan. It runs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and yes, it gets crowded at rush-hour (roughly from 8 to 9:30am and from 5 to 6:30pm on weekdays), but even then it’s still the fastest way to get from point A to point B.

But because of the starring role the subways have played in action films set in New York over the years, with squinty-eyed thugs menacing grandmothers on graffiti-riddled trains, many visitors are scared to go underground. Yes, there were problems in 2022, but an increase in police presence in the city means that crime stats for the subways are back down to their 2019 rates (and those were at a historick low).

Of course, that doesn’t make them Disneyland. Though the cars are heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer, the platforms are not, and they often feel 10 degrees colder than the city streets in winter, and 10 degrees hotter in summer. Pickpockets remain a problem, as they are in Paris, London, and every other city where large numbers of people jam together in small spaces. So remember to move your wallet to a place where you can keep track of it before boarding the train (if you’re wearing pants, the front pocket is usually best). And because of an ongoing feud between the Mayor of New York and the Governor of the state, the subways have been underfunded, which means they're often delayed, as much needed work is slow to be accomplished. (But even with maintenance problems, they're still faster than every other form of transportation in the city).

Paying Your Way

Most use the OMNY system, which allows you to scan your  contactless credit or debit card (one with the sound wave symbol on it), or a digital wallet on your smartphone or smartwatch at the turnstile. OMNY cards, which work like credit cards, but only for NYC's public transportation, are also available at vending machines in subway stations and at local drugstores. Frankly, we think using your own contactless credit card is easiest. The key is to stick to one credit card or digital wallet, so that the OMNY system recognizes you each time your ride. OMNY will never charge you more than $33 in a week, meaning all your rides after you've done 12 are free.  

Subway and bus rides cost $2.90 per ride. Children under 44 inches tall ride free (up to three per adult). There are also reduced price tickets available for those over 65 and persons with disabilities; you can apply for them online at reducedfare.mta.info.
Once you’re in the subway system, you can transfer free of charge to any subway line that you can reach without exiting your station. You’ll also get free transfers between bus and subway within a 2-hour period.

Using the System

In Manhattan, the subway system basically mimics the lay of the land above ground, with most lines in Manhattan running north and south, like the avenues, and a few lines east and west, like the streets.

To go up and down the east side of Manhattan (and to the Bronx and Brooklyn), take the 4, 5, or 6 train.

To travel up and down the West Side (and also to the Bronx and Brooklyn), take the 1, 2, or 3 line; the A, C, E, or F line; or the B or D line.

The N, R, and W lines first cut diagonally across town from east to west and then snake under Seventh Avenue before shooting out to Queens. The Q line, also known as the Second Avenue Subway doesn't go to Queens, but instead serves the Upper East Side, heading east at 57th street and making stops at 72nd,

The crosstown S line, called the Shuttle, runs back and forth between Times Square and Grand Central Terminal. The 7 train also cuts across town, ending up at 34th Street near the Hudson Yards development. Farther downtown, across 14th Street, the L line works its own crosstown magic.

Express trains often skip about three stops for each one they make; express stops are indicated on subway maps with a white (rather than solid) circle. Local stops are usually about nine blocks apart.

Directions are almost always indicated using “uptown” (northbound) and “downtown” (southbound), so be sure to know what direction you want to head in. The outsides of some subway entrances are marked uptown only or downtown only; read carefully, as it’s easy to head in the wrong direction or get stuck on the wrong platform.

By Bus

Since buses can get stuck in traffic and stop every couple of blocks, rather than the eight or nine blocks that local subways traverse between stops (unless you catch a “Limited” bus), they’re much less useful than the subway. I recommend using them only if you have to travel east to west; note that you can combine a bus ride with a subway ride at no additional cost (the transfer has to take place within 2 hours of the time you first boarded either the subway or the train).

Paying Your Way & Using the System

Like the subway fare (see above), a SingleRide bus fare is $2.90, half-price for seniors and riders with disabilities, and free for children under 44 inches (up to three per adult). The fare is payable by tapping your contactless credit card on a screen right to the side of the driver (or using a digital wallet via your smartphone or smartwatch). Cash is difficult to use. Bus drivers don’t make change, and fare boxes don’t accept dollar bills or pennies.

You can’t flag a city bus down—you have to meet it at a bus stop. Bus stops are located every two or three blocks on the right-side corner of the street (facing the direction of traffic flow). They’re marked by a curb painted yellow and a blue-and-white sign with a bus emblem and the route number or numbers, and usually an ad-bedecked bus shelter.

Almost every major avenue has its own bus route. They run either north or south: downtown on Fifth, uptown on Madison, downtown on Lexington, uptown on Third, and so on. There are crosstown buses at strategic locations all around town: 14th, 23rd, 34th, and 42nd (east- and westbound); 49th (westbound); 50th (eastbound); 57th (east- and westbound); 66th (eastbound across the West Side on 65th St., through the park, and then north on Madison, continuing east on 68th to York Ave.); 67th (westbound on the East Side to Fifth Ave., and then south on Fifth, continuing west on 66th St., through the park and across the west side to West End Ave.); and 79th, 86th, 96th, 116th, and 125th (east- and westbound). Some bus routes, however, are erratic: The M104, for example, turns at Eighth Avenue and 41st St. and goes up Broadway to West 129th St.

Most routes operate 24 hours a day, but service is infrequent at night. During rush hour, main routes have “Limited” buses, identifiable by the red card in the front window; they stop only at major cross streets.

Most city buses are equipped with wheelchair lifts, making buses the city’s most accessible mode of public transportation. Buses also “kneel,” lowering down to the curb to make boarding easier.

By Taxi

Cabs can be hailed on any street, provided you find an empty one—often simple, yet nearly impossible at 5pm when the taxi drivers change shifts. They’re pricey, but can be convenient if you’re tired or are not sure how to find an address. Don’t assume they’ll be quicker than the subway or walking, though. In traffic-clogged Midtown at midday, you can often walk to where you’re going more quickly.

Most official New York City taxis, licensed by the Taxi and Limousine Commission (TLC), are yellow, with the rates printed on the door and a light with a medallion number on the roof. But those that operate primarily in the outer boroughs and upper Manhattan are apple-green and are governed by slightly different rules. Like yellow cabs, they’re hailable, but unlike the yellow ones they are not allowed to pick up passengers in Manhattan below West 110th Street or East 96th Street (though they are allowed to drop off passengers there).

The base fare on entering the cab is $3, plus a $2.50 congestion charge if you’re driving below 96th street in Manhattan, and 1.50 in state fees. The cost is 70 cents for every 1/5 mile and for every 60 seconds in stopped or slow-moving traffic (or for waiting time). There’s no extra charge for each passenger or for luggage. However, you must pay bridge or tunnel tolls. You’ll also pay a $2.50 surcharge between 4 and 8pm, and a $1 surcharge between 8pm and 6am. A 15% to 20% tip is customary. All taxis are now equipped with a device that allows you to pay by credit card.

Drivers are required by law to take you anywhere in the five boroughs, to Nassau or Westchester counties, and to the major airports. They are supposed to know how to get to any address in the city. They are also required to provide A/C and turn off the radio on demand. Smoking in the cab is not allowed.

You are allowed to dictate the route that is taken. It’s a good idea to look at a map before you get in a taxi. Taxi drivers have been known to jack up the fare on visitors who don’t know better by taking a circuitous route between points A and B. Don’t be afraid to speak up.

On the other hand, listen to drivers who propose an alternate route. These guys spend 8 or 10 hours a day on these streets, and they know where the worst traffic is, or where Con Ed has dug up an intersection that should be avoided.

Another important tip: Always make sure the meter is turned on at the start of the ride. You’ll see the red LED readout register the initial $3 and start calculating the fare as you go. I’ve seen unscrupulous drivers buzz visitors around the city with the meter off, then overcharge them at drop-off.

For all driver complaints, including the one above, and to report lost property, call tel. 311 (or 212/NEW-YORK [212/639-9675] outside the metro area).

Taxi-Hailing Tips: When you’re waiting on the street for an available taxi, look at the medallion light on the top of the coming cabs. If the light is out, the taxi is in use. When the center part (the number) is lit, the taxi is available—this is when you raise your hand to flag the cab. If all the lights are on, the driver is off-duty. Taxi regulations limit the number of people permitted to take a cab to four, so split up if your group is larger.

By Uber & Lyft

These three services have become so ubiquitous that the value of a taxi medallion (the official license necessary to own a yellow cab) plummeted from several hundred thousand dollars to well under half that amount in recent years. All three are accessible through apps one downloads to a smartphone. With Lyft and Uber, you key in your pick-up and drop-off locations and receive a price for the ride. They are rarely cheaper than a taxi, especially when “surge pricing” takes effect. The credit card that you register when you get the app is charged for the ride; no tipping necessary.

By Bicycle

Believe it or not, New York is a great bicycling city.  The city provides a number of designated bike routes and lanes, including some major protected bike lanes painted green, divided from traffic by parked cars, and with their own traffic signals.

And thanks to the Citibike system (http://citibikenyc.com) anyone can easily get around on two wheels. Following the successful examples set by cities like Paris, Montreal, and Washington D.C., the city’s program charges $19 a day, with unlimited free trips that clock in at less than 30 minutes (beyond that, a half-hourly rate kicks in). (Single rides, if you don't get the day pass, are a pricey $4.49 each.) The freestanding, solar-powered racks dot many streets across the five boroughs, each holding around a dozen sturdy bikes outfitted with lights and tough tires. It’s been a huge success.

For a current map of the ever-expanding city bike-lane network, visit www.nycbikemaps.com. Alas, helmets are not provided at these stands; it’s a smart idea to bring your own.

By Ferry

In recent years, new ferry services debuted to take passengers between Wall Street, East 34th Street in Manhattan, several stops off the FDR Drive and the Lower East Side, and a number of different parts of the Bronx, Brooklyn, Astoria, Queens, and Roosevelt Island. The cost is the same as the subway ($2.90) and for those traveling to the very edges of the city, this method of travel is convenient, and very scenic. To see the routes, go to www.ferry.nyc.

By Car

Forget driving yourself around the city. It’s not worth the headache. Traffic is horrendous, and parking even more problematic.

If you do arrive in New York City by car, park it in a garage (expect to pay at least $40–$55 per day) and leave it there for the duration of your stay. If you drive a rental car in, return it as soon as you arrive and rent another when you leave.

Just about all of the major car-rental companies have multiple Manhattan locations. Note that congestion charges will add $15 to your vacation budget everytime you drive into Manhattan below 60th street.

Frankly, Manhattan’s transportation systems are a marvel. It’s simply miraculous that so many people can gather on this little island and move around it. For the most part, you can get where you’re going pretty quickly and easily using some combination of subways, buses, and cabs; this section will tell you how to do just that. But between traffic gridlock and subway delays, sometimes you just can’t get there from here—unless you walk. Walking can sometimes be the fastest way to navigate the island. During rush hours, you’ll easily beat car traffic while on foot, as taxis and buses stop and groan at gridlocked corners (don’t even try going crosstown in a cab or bus in Midtown at midday). You’ll also see a lot more by walking than you will if you ride beneath the street in the subway or fly by in a cab. So pack your most comfortable shoes and hit the pavement—it’s the best, cheapest, and most appealing way to experience the city.

By Foot

What’s the primary means New Yorkers use for getting around town? The subway? Buses? Taxis? Nope. Walking. They stride across wide, crowded pavements without any regard for traffic lights, weaving through crowds at high speeds, dodging taxis and buses whose drivers are forced to interrupt the normal flow of traffic to avoid flattening them. Never take your walking cues from the locals. Wait for walk signals and always use crosswalks—don’t cross in the middle of the block. Do otherwise and you could quickly end up as a flattened statistic (or at least get a ticket for jaywalking).

Always pay attention to the traffic flow. Walk as though you’re driving, staying to the right. Pay attention to what’s happening in the street, even if you have the right of way. At intersections, keep an eye out for drivers who don’t yield, turn without looking, or think a yellow traffic light means “Hurry up!” as you cross. Unfortunately, most bicyclists seem to think that the traffic laws don’t apply to them; they’ll often blithely fly through red lights and dash the wrong way on one-way streets, so be on your guard.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

LGBTQ culture is as much a part of New York’s basic identity as yellow cabs, high-rises, and Broadway theater. Indeed, in a city with one of the world’s largest, loudest, and most powerful GLBT populations, homosexuality is squarely in the mainstream. So city hotels tend to be neutral on the issue, and gay couples shouldn’t have a problem.

All over Manhattan, but especially in such neighborhoods as Hells Kitchen, the West Village (particularly Christopher St., famous the world over as the main drag of New York gay-male life) and Chelsea (especially Eighth Ave., from 16th to 23rd sts., and W. 17th to 19th sts., from Fifth to Eighth aves.), shops, services, and restaurants have a lesbian and gay flavor. The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center, familiarly known as “the Center,” is at 208 W. 13th St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (tel. 212/620-7310; www.gaycenter.org). The center is the meeting place for more than 300 lesbian, gay, and bisexual organizations. You can check the online events calendar, which lists hundreds of happenings—lectures, dances, concerts, readings, films—or call for the latest. The staff is also helpful in lending advice on gay friendly businesses in the area including hotels and guesthouses.

Other good sources for lesbian and gay events is Time Out New York (www.timeoutny.com), which boasts a terrific gay and lesbian section. The Center (see above) publishes a monthly guide listing many events (also listed on its website).

We also list a number of gay bars in the nightlife section of this website.

Money

New York City can be one of the most expensive destinations in the United States (and the world). You can pay more for lodging, dining, and transportation than almost anywhere else; however, on this site, we steer you to the best values for your money at every level.

In terms of how much to bring: not that much in cash. You never have to carry too much cash in New York, and while the city’s pretty safe, it’s best not to overstuff your wallet (although always make sure you have at least $20 in cash for small purchases).

ATMs -- In every Manhattan neighborhood you can find a bank with ATMs (automated teller machines) every couple of blocks. Most delis, many restaurants and clubs, and other stores have an ATM on premises, so if you need cash quickly, you’re probably never more than about 100 feet away from one. (Though keep an eye on the fees imposed for using the ATM; they will go on top of whatever fee your bank charges; and note that in some bars and clubs, where you can’t leave once you’ve paid your admission, the withdrawal fee is hefty.)

 

Calendar of Events

The following information is always subject to change. Confirm before you make plans around a specific event. Call the venue or the New York City Convention & Visitors Bureau at tel. 212/484-1222, go to www.nycgo.com, or buy a copy of Time Out New York at any newsstand for the latest details.

JANUARY

New York Boat Show. Yachts to pontoon boats to canoes are all on display at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. www.nyboatshow.com.

Winter Restaurant Week. A misnomer, because this gourmet shindig actually lasts 2 weeks, this is the time of year when cheap foodies can get a 2-course lunch/3-course dinner for$30/$45/$60, depending on the restaurant (some of the best in the city participate). Visit nycgo.com for upcoming dates. You can make reservations starting 2 weeks in advance. Late January/early February.

Chinese New Year. Based on the lunar calendar, Chinese New Year always falls sometime in January or February, with 2 weeks of parades, festive meals, and special performances staged throughout Chinatown's streets, and along East Broadway. Visit www.explorechinatown.com.

FEBRUARY

Fashion Week. Early February is when American designers parade their new lines for the press and big department store buyers. It's impossible to get tickets to the runway shows (they go to the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna). I only mention Fashion Week here because the event can tie up rooms at the Midtown hotels (better to stay Downtown or Uptown when the fashionistas are in town).

Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show. I’ve always found it funny that Fashion Week—that parade of “Best in Breed” women—should be followed directly by a dog show. At least at the dog show, they’re upfront about the purpose of the spectacle. The winnowing from just cute to anatomically awesome takes place the second weekend of the month at Madison Square Garden. With over 2,500 pooches appearing, it’s quite the scene. Check the website www.westminsterkennelclub.org for further info. Tickets are available starting in mid-October via Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.com). Mid-February.

MARCH

St. Patrick’s Day Parade. Thanks to one of the largest Irish-American populations in the United States, St. Paddy’s is an enormous event in NYC, rivaling only New Year’s Eve for its displays of public inebriation. Every pub in town throws a party, and in the afternoon, all of 150,000 marchers parade down Fifth Avenue from 44th to 86th streets, starting at 11am. For more info: www.nycstpatricksparade.org. March 17.

APRIL

New York International Auto Show. Here’s the irony: You don’t need a car in New York, yet this is the largest car show in the U.S. Held at the Javits Center, many concept cars show up that will never roll off the assembly line but are fun to dream about. To learn more:  www.autoshowny.com. Mid-April.

Easter Parade. No floats, no marching bands, just ordinary people strolling in extraordinary hats mark Easter in one of the city’s most low-key but charming celebrations. Fifth Avenue from 57th Street all the way down to 45th is closed to traffic from 11am to 4pm, with the greatest number of chapeaus in evidence around noon.

MAY

Dance Parade. Towards the end of the month, on a Saturday, people from all across the globe to dance their ways through the streets of Greenwich Village. It's an incredibly joyous display, featuring folk dancers from all cultures, hip hoppers, tap dancers, and more. The parade ends in Thompkins Square park, where all the troupes dance and party together. For dates go to http://danceparade.org.

Fleet Week. About 10,000 Navy and Coast Guard personnel are “at liberty” in New York for the annual Fleet Week at the end of May. Usually from 1 to 4pm daily, you can watch the ships and aircraft carriers as they dock at the piers on the west side of Manhattan, tour them with on-duty personnel, and watch some dramatic exhibitions by the U.S. Marines. Even if you don’t take in any of the events, you’ll know it’s Fleet Week because those 10,000 sailors invade Midtown in their starched white uniforms. It’s wonderful—just like On the Town come to life. Go to www.intrepidmuseum.org. Late May.

Frieze New York. An off-shoot of the London original, this artapalooza brings hundreds of international galleries to tents on Randall’s Island. Big money is spent and made here, but even if you’re not a buyer, the chance to see art this cutting-edge is exciting. Early May. http://frieze.com/fairs

TEFAF. The world’s leading arts and antique show (The European Fine Art Fair, long held only in Maastricht, Holland) displays exquisite pieces from the Stone Age through today at New York’s Park Avenue Armory. The items are so rare they often make the news. In recent years treasures have included Persian drinking vessels from 1000 b.c., a Flemish tapestry from 1600, and a painting by 17th century Spanish master Jusepe di Ribera. Go to www.tefaf.com.

JUNE

Belmont Stakes. The final event in horse racing's grand trifecta of events (the Kentucky Derby and The Preakness are the first two). Any horse able to win all three instantly enters the record books and his owner becomes a multi-millionaire, thanks to the breeding fees he’ll be able to collect for the rest of that horse’s life. For information, visit www.nyra.com. Early June.

Gay Pride Weekend. More than just a parade (though the naughty, outrageous, rambunctious parade is still at the heart of the festivities), NY’s pride weekend draws men and women from across the U.S. for a weekend of lectures, dances, and rallies. Learn more at www.nycpride.org.

Mermaid Parade. A smaller, nautically themed, daytime version of Greenwich Village’s Halloween Parade, the Mermaid Parade takes place towards the end of June each year in Coney Island. Founded in 1983, the parade has the same kind of home-grown ambience and raunch as its Greenwich Village counterpart. Along with the ball that follows, featuring performances by local burlesque acts, the event is a heckuva a lot of fun. Get details at www.coneyisland.com.

Tribeca Festival. Founded by Robert DeNiro and Jane Rosenthal in 2002, this little festival has quickly grown into one of the most influential in the nation—and expanded in recent years to include all forms of storytelling, from podcasting to live music. You’ll see films from all over the world here, from big studio pictures to tiny independent productions from places such as Slovakia and Dubai. And unlike other film fests, this one is truly for all ages, with a nifty street fair (usually featuring a zoo and rides), as well as children’s films throughout the 2-week event. To learn more, visit www.tribecafilm.com/festival. Mid-June.

JULY

Macy's Fourth of July Fireworks. Start the day amid the crowds at the Great July 4th Festival in lower Manhattan, and then catch Macy’s fireworks extravaganza over New York Harbor. It's the country’s largest pyrotechnic show on Independence Day, and huge barges launch the fireworks from the Hudson or East Rivers. www.macys.com/fireworks.

Restaurant Week. Mid-July (see “January,” above).

Several Festivals at Lincoln Center. The Mostly Mozart Festival brings master musicians from all over the world to play the music of the 18th-century master. In 2018 it expanded to include ballet and theater performances. Also part of the fun, outdoors at Lincoln Center, is Midsummer Night’s Swing: evenings of big-band swing, salsa, and tango under the stars to the sounds of top-flight bands. Dance lessons are offered with purchase of a ticket.

AUGUST

U.S. Open Tennis Championships. For one brief, bright-tennis-whites moment each year at the end of August (and into September), the city becomes a center for international sport with the start of the U.S. Open, one of tennis’ four Grand Slam events. For full information, visit www.usopen.org for information. Two weeks around Labor Day.

SEPTEMBER

Fashion Week. Part 2 of the event mentioned above, and yes, it sends hotel rates soaring. Try and avoid visiting the week if you can (details on dates at www.mbfashionweek.com)

New York Film Festival. Legendary hits like Pulp Fiction and Mean Streets both had their U.S. premieres at the Film Society of Lincoln Center’s 2-week festival, a major stop on the film-fest circuit. Screenings are held in various Lincoln Center venues; advance tickets are a good bet always, and a necessity for certain events (especially evening and weekend screenings). Check out www.filmlinc.com/nyff. Two weeks from late September to early October.

OCTOBER

Greenwich Village Halloween Parade. Men in drag, women in drag, zombies dancing to Michael Jackson’s Thriller—all these apparitions and more made their appearance at recent parades, and you’ll see them if you attend. This is New York’s most outrageous event and the largest Halloween parade in the world. Some locals spend all year working on their costumes; if you dress up, you can march, too. For information on how to do that, and for the parade routing (which changes), visit www.halloween-nyc.com. To snag a viewing spot in Greenwich Village along the parade route, you’ll need to show up at about 5pm (2 hr. before the parade starts) . . . or have a nice dinner and show up at 9pm to view the second half. The crowd will have thinned by then, and because the event usually doesn’t end until close to 11pm, you’ll have more than enough time to enjoy it. October 31.

New York International Fringe Festival (FringeNYC). Held in a variety of downtown venues and park spaces for a crowd looking for the next underground hit (as in Urinetown, which went from the Fringe to Broadway), this arts festival presents alternative as well as traditional theater. Hundreds of events are held at all hours over about 10 days. Suffice it to say that the quality can vary wildly. Visit www.fringenyc.org. Mid-October.

New Yorker Festival. The esteemed magazine comes to life with a weekend’s worth of lectures, events and panels with the world’s most intriguing thinkers (movie stars, chefs, politicians, professors and more). Full info at http://festivalnewyorker.com. Usually second weekend in October.

Open House New York. The doors are thrown open at dozens of homes and buildings around the city, all of which are usually off limits to the public and feature notable architecture. Mid-October. Exact dates at www.ohny.org.

NOVEMBER

Holiday Trimmings. Starting the day after Thanksgiving (and often even before that), the entire city dresses up for Christmas, stringing lights, hanging tinsel, and inserting the computer chips into all of the moving figurines that have, of late, hijacked the windows of the city's large department stores. The best street to see the trimmings, by far, is Fifth Avenue, between 39th and 59th streets. Along with the spectacular windows at the big department stores—Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, and Tiffany’s—you’ll also want to admire the massive fir tree at Rockefeller Center (off Fifth Ave., at 51st St., lit in late November; go to www.rockefellercenter.com for more details). The windows at Macy’s (34th St. at Broadway) are also deservedly famous, as is the indoor winter wonderland display at the heart of which is a Santa, waiting to hear your tots’ Christmas wishes (just like in Miracle on 34th Street). Madison Avenue, between 55th and 60th streets, is also worth a stroll, and if you have the time, drop by Bloomingdales (Lexington Ave., between 59th and 60th sts.) for its yearly display.
    Chanukah is also a big deal in this city, with the largest Jewish population outside of Israel. On Fifth Avenue at 59th Street, a giant menorah—at 32 feet it’s the largest in the world—is lit each year on the first night of Chanukah and for 7 nights thereafter. On the first and final evenings, steaming latkes (potato pancakes) are distributed at sunset, and live music accompanies the electric candle-lighting.

New York City Marathon. Some 30,000 runners from around the world participate in the largest U.S. marathon, and more than a million fans cheer them on as they follow a route that touches all five New York boroughs and finishes at Central Park. Go to www.nyrr.org, for applications. First Sunday in November.

Radio City Christmas Spectacular. This New York tradition now starts well before Thanksgiving, and it’s still as extravagantly kitschy as ever, with laser-light shows, onstage ice-skating, horses, camels and, of course, the fabulous Rockettes, executing their 300-plus kicks per show. Shows run approximately 7 days a week, with six daily performances (on many dates) starting at 9am and going until 10pm. For information, surf to www.radiocitychristmas.com; you can also buy tickets at the box office or via Ticketmaster’s Radio City Hot Line (tel. 866/858-0007), or visit www.ticketmaster.com. Throughout November and December.

Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. The procession starts at Central Park West and 77th Street and finishes at Herald Square at 34th Street, a much-beloved national tradition. Huge hot-air balloons in the forms of Rocky and Bullwinkle, Snoopy, the Pink Panther, Bart Simpson, and other cartoon favorites are the best part. The night before, you can usually see the big blow-up on Central Park West at 79th Street. Thanksgiving Day.

The Nutcracker. Ballet impresario George Balanchine’s masterpiece. The music is by Tchaikovsky, and half the cast is under 15, culled from New York City Ballet’s famous dance school at Juilliard. Your children will love it, though it’s an expensive treat. The show sells out early, so make your reservations in October if you can, when the seats first go on sale. Go online to www.nycballet.com. Late November through early January.

DECEMBER

Christmas Traditions. In addition to the Radio City Christmas Spectacular and the New York City Ballet’s staging of The Nutcracker (see “November,” above), traditional holiday events include the classic train show at the N.Y. Botanical Gardens, the medieval Christmas decorations exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the National Chorale’s singalong performances of Handel’s Messiah at Avery Fisher Hall (www.lincolncenter.org) for a week before Christmas. The Messiah is also staged in many churches and other venues throughout the city during December. Check local listings.

New Year’s Eve. The biggest party of all is in Times Square, where raucous revelers count down the year’s final seconds until the ball drops at midnight at 1 Times Square. Standing in the, cold surrounded by thousands of tipsy revelers, all penned in by NYPD barricades, is a masochist’s delight. Use the restroom before you wedge yourself in. More info at www.timessquarenyc.org. December 31.

Runner’s World Midnight Run. Enjoy fireworks followed by the New York Road Runners Club’s annual run in Central Park, which is fun for runners and spectators alike; go to www.nyrr.org. December 31.

Brooklyn’s Fireworks Celebration. Head to Brooklyn for the city’s largest New Year’s Eve fireworks celebration inside Prospect Park (and supervised by the FDNY). Visit www.prospectpark.org. December 31.

New Year’s Eve Concert for Peace. The Cathedral of St. John the Divine is known for its annual concert, whose past performances have included singer Judy Collins, Forces of Nature Dance Company, and the world premiere of Songs of War, Remembrance, and Hope by Glen Cortese. The evening culminates in the passing of a candle flame while the audience of thousands sings "This Little Light of Mine." For tickets, go online to www.stjohndivine.org. December 31.

Traveling from the City to the Suburbs

By Train

The PATH (tel. 800/234-7284; www.panynj.gov/path) system connects cities in New Jersey, including Hoboken and Newark, to Manhattan by subway-style trains. Stops in Manhattan are at the World Trade Center, Christopher and 9th streets, and along Sixth Avenue at 14th, 23rd, and 33rd streets. The fare is $2.75 one-way.

New Jersey Transit (tel. 973/275-5555; www.njtransit.com) operates commuter trains from Penn Station, and buses from the Port Authority at Eighth Avenue and 42nd Street, to points throughout New Jersey.

The Long Island Rail Road (tel. 718/217-LIRR [217-5477]; www.mta.info/lirr) runs from Penn Station, at Seventh Avenue between 31st and 33rd streets, to Queens (ocean beaches, Citi Field [the new home of the New York Mets], Belmont Park) and points beyond on Long Island, to even better beaches and summer hot spots such as the Hamptons. You can also connect to the Fire Island ferry from the LIRR.

Metro-North Railroad (tel. 212/532-4900; www.mta.info/mnr) departs from Grand Central Terminal, at 42nd Street and Lexington Avenue, for areas north of the city, including Westchester County, the Hudson Valley, and Connecticut.

By Bus

The best source for travel on busses into and out of the city is www.gotobus.com.

Tips for Student Travelers

There are student discounts at almost every museum in New York, for example, and so student travelers should bring their school IDs with them. In this case, “student” means high school or college—or any school, really.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- There are four area codes in the city: two in Manhattan, the original 212 and 646; and two in the outer boroughs, the original 718 and the newer 347. Also common is the 917 area code, which is assigned to cellphones. All calls between these area codes are local calls, but you’ll have to dial 1 + the area code + the seven digits for all calls, even ones made within your area code.

Business Hours -- In general, retail stores are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6 or 7pm, Thursday from 10am to 8:30 or 9pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm. Banks tend to be open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, with many open Saturday mornings, and some now even open on Sundays.

Doctors -- If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. This will probably yield a better recommendation than any toll-free telephone number would.

TThere are also many walk-in medical centers, like City MD (www.citymd.com), which offers 17 clinics in Manhattan and dozens in the other boroughs. Hours vary widely. Their midtown office is at 944 Second Ave. (at 50th Street).

Pack prescription medications in their original containers in your carry-on luggage. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

If you have dental problems on the road, a service known as 1-800-DENTIST (tel. 800/336-8422) will provide the name of a local dentist.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age can be requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, especially if you’re graced with youthful looks. However, this is New York City, which is a most tolerant place. Liquor and wine are sold only in licensed stores, which are open 6 days a week, with some choosing to close on Sunday, others on an early or midweek day. (You can usually find an open liquor store on Sun.) Liquor stores are closed on holidays and election days while the polls are open. Beer can be purchased in grocery stores and delis 24 hours a day, except Sunday before noon. Last call in bars is at 4am, though many close earlier. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Emergencies -- For all emergencies—a fire, police, or health emergency—call 911.

Hospitals -- The following hospitals have 24-hour emergency rooms. Don’t forget your insurance card.

Downtown: New York Downtown Hospital, 170 William St., between Beekman and Spruce streets (tel. 212/312-5106 or 212/312-5000)

Midtown: Bellevue Hospital Center, 462 First Ave., at 27th Street (tel. 212/562-4141); New York University Langone Medical Center, 550 First Ave., at 33rd Street (tel. 212/263-7300); and Mount Sinai West, 425 W. 59th St., between Ninth and Tenth avenues (tel. 212/523-4000).

Upper West Side: Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center, 622 W. 168th St., between Broadway and Fort Washington Avenue (tel. 212/305-2500).

Upper East Side: New York Presbyterian Hospital, 525 E. 68th St., at York Avenue (tel. 212/746-5454); Lenox Hill Hospital, 100 E. 77th St., between Park and Lexington avenues (tel. 212/434-3030); and Mount Sinai Medical Center, 1190 Fifth Avenue at 100th Street (tel. 212/241-6500).

Internet and Wi-Fi -- New York is becoming one big “hotspot” thanks to some 7,500 LinkNYC kiosks being installed in all five boroughs (you’ll see monolithic slabs all over Manhattan). The free Wi-Fi they provide is 100 times stronger than found in other U.S. metropolitan areas. The large panels also have outlets for charging devices. You can see current LinkNYC spots at www.link.nyc/find-a-link.html. You’ll also be able to get connected in almost all NYC subway stations, all Starbucks, and all public libraries. Your hotel will likely also provide free Wi-Fi

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 34¢ for a postcard and 49¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don’t know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- There are three major daily newspapers: the New York Times, the Daily News, and the New York Post. There are also two free daily papers, AM-New York and Metro, usually distributed in the morning near subway stations and in self-serve boxes around town.

There are several weekly and biweekly newspapers and magazines (such as New York Magazine).

Packing -- New York City has four seasons—sort of. In reality, it’s more like summer, fall, and winter, with a fugitive spring. If you come in the summer, it can be very hot or simply warm. The fall is normally brisk, cool, and wonderful. The winter can be cold—though not generally Maine cold. If there is a spring—and New York normally jumps directly from winter into summer—it tends to be rainy and a bit cold.

Police -- Dial tel. 911 in an emergency; otherwise, call tel. 646/610-5000 (NYPD Switchboard) for the number of the nearest precinct. For nonemergency matters, call tel. 311.

Safety -- The FBI consistently rates New York City as one of the safest large cities in the United States, but it is still a large city and crime most definitely exists. Here are a few tips for staying safe in New York:

* Trust your instincts, because they’re usually right.

* You’ll rarely be hassled, but it’s always best to walk with a sense of purpose and self-confidence. Don’t stop in the middle of the sidewalk to pull out and peruse your map.

* Anywhere in the city, if you find yourself on a deserted street that feels unsafe, it probably is; leave as quickly as possible.

* If you do find yourself accosted by someone with or without a weapon, remember to keep your anger in check and that the most reasonable response (maddening though it may be) is not to resist.

Smoking -- Smoking is prohibited on all public transportation; in the lobbies of hotels and office buildings; in taxis, bars, and restaurants; and in most shops.

Subway Safety Tips -- In general, the subways are safe, especially in Manhattan. There are panhandlers and questionable characters like anywhere else in the city, but subway crime has gone down to 1960s levels. Still, stay alert and trust your instincts. Always keep a hand on your personal belongings.

When using the subway, don’t wait for trains near the edge of the platform or on extreme ends of a station. During non–rush hours, wait for the train in view of the token-booth clerk or under the yellow DURING OFF HOURS TRAINS STOP HERE signs, and ride in the train operator’s or conductor’s car (usually in the center of the train; you’ll see his or her head stick out of the window when the doors open). Choose crowded cars over empty ones—there’s safety in numbers.

Avoid subways late at night, and splurge on a cab after about 10 or 11pm—it’s money well spent to avoid a long wait on a deserted platform. Or take the bus.

Taxes -- Sales tax is 8.875% on meals, most goods, and some services. Hotel tax is 5.875% plus a daily fee up to $2 depending on the cost of your room per night. Parking garage tax is 18.375%. The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it’s 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it’s 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won’t find many public toilets or restrooms on the streets in New York City, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, and railway and bus stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. And since there's a Starbucks every few blocks, that's become a pit stop for many travelers.

Public restrooms are available at the visitor centers in Midtown (1560 Broadway, btw. 46th and 47th sts.; and 810 Seventh Ave., btw. 52nd and 53rd sts.). You can find relief at the New York Public Library’s main building on Fifth Avenue just south of 42nd Street. Grand Central Terminal, at 42nd Street between Park and Lexington avenues, also has clean restrooms. There are staffed bathrooms open from early in the morning until fairly late at night in the Times Square subway station (closer to Seventh Ave.). Your best bet on the street is Starbucks or another city java chain—you can’t walk more than a few blocks without seeing one. The big chain bookstores are good for this, too. You can also head to hotel lobbies (especially the big Midtown ones) and department stores such as Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. On the Lower East Side, stop into the Lower East Side BID Visitor Center, 54 Orchard St., between Hester and Grand streets (weekdays 9:30am–5:30pm, weekends 9:30am–4pm).

Neighborhoods in Brief

It never fails to amaze. I’m strolling along a pleasant street of small brownstones, I come to the corner, and suddenly, the landscape morphs. I’m a small ant in a canyon of skyscrapers, or else I’m a visitor to India, surrounded by cumin-scented restaurants and men with strong accents beckoning me into their curry joints. New York is a city of multiple personalities and like Sybil, they can shift on a dime, within the space of one block going from elegant to seedy, from industrial to chic, from ethnic to all-American.

It’s this quicksilver quality, this constant metamorphosis, that endows even a simple stroll in New York with real excitement. I urge you to spend at least part of your vacation simply ambling around, window-shopping, eavesdropping on passing conversations and exploring places beyond the heavily touristed areas.

Here’s what you’ll find in the various—and strikingly different—neighborhoods of New York City.

DOWNTOWN

The Financial District

Best for: Museums, historic sites (like the September 11 Memorial and Museum), architecture, and access to Ellis Island, the Statue of Liberty, and the Brooklyn Bridge

What you won’t find: Great dining, much evening entertainment

Parameters of the neighborhood: Everything south of Chambers Street

This is where New York City—then New Amsterdam—was born. The area packs the same historic punch as do colonial sections of Boston and Philadelphia. It was on Wall Street that George Washington took the oath of office as America’s first president. It was here, at Fraunces Tavern, that the Sons of Liberty gathered to plot the overthrow of the British. It was at Castle Clinton and then Ellis Island that millions of immigrants flooded the city in the 19th and 20th centuries to get their first glimpse of a "promised land". The great financial movers and shakers also stalked the area (and continue to do so today), and a visit to these "canyons of greed" at the beginning of the day or at 5pm, when those men and women in suits and trader’s smocks pour onto the streets, is an exciting sight. Recent history has overshadowed other sights and for many visitors this has become simply the place to pay respects at Ground Zero at the extraordinary 9/11 Memorial and Museum. Other top museums here include the National Museum of the American Indian and The Museum of Jewish Heritage.

Chinatown (& Little Italy)

Best for: Affordable dining and shopping

What you won’t find: Top museums, streets without gridlock

Parameters of the neighborhood: Chinatown is roughly bordered by Broome Street to the north, Allen Street to the east, Worth to the south, and Lafayette Street to the west.

At points, Chinatown takes on the aspects of Shanghai or Beijing: the dense crowds on the streets, the awnings with Chinese characters, the pinging sound of Chinese conversation everywhere. It’s a fun, truly transporting area to visit and one that’s been voraciously swallowing up other neighborhoods—Little Italy, the Jewish Lower East Side—for the past few decades. In fact, except for two blocks of Mulberry Street (from Canal to Broome), strung with colored lights, Little Italy has ceased to exist and is really only a tourist-trapping shadow of its former self. There are a handful of worthwhile places to shop for Italian food, eat gelato or get Italian coffee, but no noteworthy restaurants and very few real Italian-Americans around anymore. For great, cheap eats (and shopping) stick with Asian restaurants and marts, for the most part.

TriBeCa, Nolita & Soho

Best for: Dining, bars, star-sightings, architecture, shopping

What you won’t find: Cutting-edge galleries (they’re now in Chelsea), museums

Parameters of the neighborhood: Let’s explain the names first. SoHo means “south of Houston Street”. This fashionable neighborhood extends down to Canal Street, between Sixth Avenue to the west and Lafayette Street (one block east of Broadway) to the east. Nolita is the area just north of Little Italy (Mott, Mulberry Street and Elizabeth Street north of Kenmare Street). Bordered by the Hudson River to the west, the area north of Chambers Street, west of Broadway, and south of Canal Street is the Triangle Below Canal Street, or TriBeCa. To get here, take the 1 subway to Chambers Street.

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, comes the harder task of figuring out what it is about former factories and tenements that the ultra-rich find so appealing. They certainly wouldn’t have wanted to work or live in this area back then, but these formerly industrial areas have been drawing a lot of boldfaced names lately. And with these arrivistes has come a welcome wagon of hot new restaurants, boutiques, spas, and boites. Which means simply wandering these (often) cobblestoned streets, by the cast-iron buildings (Soho has the most of any area in the world) can be a hoot.

The Lower East Side & East Village

Best for: Dining, bars, dance and music clubs, art galleries, innovative theaters, local designer-clothing shops

What you won’t find: Museums (with the exception of the very fine Tenement Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art)

Parameters of the neighborhood: Between Houston and Canal streets east of the Bowery

For millions, these areas were once the portal to America. In fact, the buildings you see on the Lower East Side were built expressly to house the teeming masses of immigrants who flooded into New York between roughly 1840 and 1930. At the turn of the last century, this was the most densely populated area in the world, with a dozen to an apartment and pushcarts jamming the streets. While there are some remnants of that life in the old-world fabric and luggage stores along Orchard Street, these areas are mostly known today for bars, lounges, and music clubs. It’s in these two neighborhoods that you’re most likely to find young designers opening their own tiny stores and protégés of the town’s great chefs trying out their own first restaurants. I may be prejudiced because I live in the East Village, but I find it one of the most vibrant areas of Manhattan, though many blocks have lost their gritty edges thanks to ever-rising real estate prices.

Greenwich Village

Best for: Strolling, dining, historic sites, lovely architecture, specialty food shops, theater, live music clubs, star sightings

What you won’t find: Museums, many hotels

Parameters of the neighborhood: From Broadway west to the Hudson River, bordered by Houston Street to the south and 14th Street to the north

Greenwich Village has always been where the city’s outsiders and oddballs have found a haven. In Dutch Colonial times, it was farmland set outside the walls of the city, and a number of slaves were given conditional freedom in return for providing the burghers with food (and fighting off the Native Americans). At the turn of the 20th century, the area became known as a bohemian enclave, where artists of all sorts (Mark Twain, Edgar Allan Poe, Henry James, Winslow Homer, to name a few) could find cheap lodging and companionship. In the 1950s it was at the center of the Beat movement; in the 1960s and '70s the area around Christopher Street became the center of a burgeoning gay rights movement (in the '80s it was a hotbed of AIDS-related activism).

Today, the high real estate prices have dulled the Village’s edge, and you’re more likely to see dads with strollers than long-haired poets walking these streets. And that dad might be Alec Baldwin, one of the many celebs who now call the tree-shaded brownstones of the Village home sweet home. But the charms of the area are still intact, as is the illusion that you’ve entered another city altogether. Very few buildings in the neighborhood reach to 10-stories (most are lower than that) and small shops elbow out chain stores. It’s a wonderful place to simply come and get lost in.

MIDTOWN

Chelsea & the Meatpacking District

Best for: Art galleries, nightlife, shopping, the Highline, gay bars

What you won’t find: Theater, Museums (other than the Whitney)

Parameters of the neighborhood: Roughly the area west of Sixth Avenue from 14th Street to 30th Street

Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood is today what Soho was 10 years ago, and what Greenwich Village was 20 years ago. The major galleries have moved here, as has Greenwich Village’s large gay population. This makes for a lively cultural scene with many bars and clubs (dance clubs are in abundance from 22nd and 29th streets between Tenth and Eleventh avenues). The so-called Meatpacking District, named for the slaughterhouses in the area, has also become an extremely popular nightlife destination (as well as a shopping mini-mecca for its handful of super-trendy stores). An off-shoot of Chelsea, it’s NYC’s adult Disneyland, filled with late-night clubs, bars, and restaurants that are unhindered by the city’s zoning laws (as there are no schools or churches in this part of town). A final reason to come here: the Highline Park, a marvel of urban reclamation.

The Flatiron District, Union Square & Gramercy Park

Best for: Dining, historic sites, architecture, Off-Broadway theater

What you won’t find: Museums

Parameters of the neighborhood: The Gramercy Park area is from about 16th to 23rd streets, east from Park Avenue South to about Second Avenue; the Flatiron District is south of 23rd Street to 14th Street, between Broadway and Sixth Avenue; Union Square is the hub of the district from 14th Street to 18th Street.

If you look up as you meander through these three bustling, adjoining (and overlapping) areas, you’re likely to see brown street signs proclaiming ladies mile. It was on this stretch, mostly on Broadway and Park Avenue South, that the first wave of department stores transformed the lives of New Yorkers in the 1850s. Instead of hopping from a dry goods shop for fabric to a milliners for hats to a cobbler for shoes, women from all over the city came here to outfit themselves and their homes in stores that, wonder of wonders, had everything they needed under one roof. Notice the large plate-glass windows on many of the facades, another department store innovation. Above, the windows are much smaller and point to a second element of the “Ladies Mile”: brothels. When the stores closed for the day, the establishments upstairs opened. And where there’s prostitution, theater often follows. The area around Union Square was New York’s first show district.

Interestingly, the same area has become another important theater district for New York’s Off-Broadway playhouses in recent years. The dining scene is also hot here.

For the best strolling, head directly for the Gramercy Park area, named for the only privately-owned park in the city (the keys go to those apartment owners whose windows overlook the park). Around the park are a number of beautifully preserved historic homes and clubs, including the wisteria-clad home of former Mayor James Harper (4 Gramercy Park S.), the Players Club (at 16 Gramercy Park S; its members included Edwin Booth and Mark Twain), and the National Arts Club (15 Gramercy Park S., a hangout for Woodrow Wilson and Theodore Dreiser).

Times Square & Midtown West

Best for: Theater and entertainment of all sorts, the Museum of Modern Art, Rockefeller Center, Macy’s

What you won’t find: Serenity

Parameters of the neighborhood: From 30th Street to 59th Street west of Fifth Avenue to the Hudson River

Midtown West, a vast area, encompasses several famous names: Madison Square Garden, the Garment District, Rockefeller Center, the Theater District, Hudson Yards and Times Square. It’s the area people think of when they think of New York and the reason why so many visitors say with a smirk “Well, it’s a nice place to visit, but I couldn’t ever live there.” And because they’re basing their judgments on crowded, loud, pushy midtown, they’re absolutely right: It’s unlivable . . . which is why so few New Yorkers actually live in this area. In certain parts of Midtown there’s no residential housing whatsoever, and it’s only the tourists who attempt to get a good night’s sleep in this bustling neighborhood.

Midtown East & Murray Hill

Best for: Great architecture, shopping (and window-shopping), historic sites, the United Nations, the Empire State Building

What you won’t find: Museums, nightlife (again, with some exceptions)

Parameters of the neighborhood: East from Fifth Avenue to Third Avenue, north from 42nd Street to 57th Street

In the 1950s, Madison, Park, and Lexington Avenues started to sprout with skyscrapers and soon were rivaling the Wall Street area for office space. That’s primarily what you’ll find here: people in suits, looming glass towers, and lots of traffic. Among all that are some spectacular architectural sights like Grand Central Station, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the Chrysler Building and the Seagram’s Building. Go closer to the East River and the area becomes largely residential with little to recommend it to visitors beyond Bloomingdales and the United Nations.

A tremendously popular stretch of Midtown East is Fifth Avenue as it runs from 57th Street down to the Empire State Building at 34th Street. Stroll it for some of the best window-shopping on the planet.

UPTOWN

Upper West Side

Best for: Museums (like the American Museum of Natural History and the New York Historical Society), Central Park, bars, kid-friendly restaurants, classical music and dance at Lincoln Center and elsewhere

What you won’t find: Great shopping (again with some exceptions), edge

Parameters of the neighborhood: Starts at 59th Street and encompasses everything west of Central Park.

In some ways, the Upper West Side has the most suburban vibe of any of Manhattan’s neighborhoods. National chain stores line the major thoroughfares and the sidewalks swarm with strollers. It’s a popular area for families thanks to its proximity to Central Park, the American Museum of Natural History, and the Children’s Museum of Manhattan.

It wasn’t always this way. When I was growing up on the Upper West Side, and even before that, the neighborhood had a reputation for being an intellectual hotbed, a place where highly political New Yorkers planned protests. No more. But it’s still an extremely pleasant place to visit with good, if unoriginal, shopping; a handful of topnotch museums; New York’s famous art hub, Lincoln Center; and, of course, access to the glories of Central Park. And the Time Warner Center gives the neighborhood the dubious distinction of having the priciest food court in the world.

Upper East Side

Best for: Museums, architecture, window-shopping, Central Park, bars

What you won’t find: Fine dining (although I list some exceptions to that), theater, music clubs

Parameters of the neighborhood: Starts at 59th Street and encompasses the area east of Central Park

10021 is the richest zip code in the world, and it belongs to the Upper East Side, in particular the swank swatch of pavement that runs from 61st to 80th streets. Also known as “The Gold Coast” and “Millionaires Mile”, this is the stomping grounds for New York’s high society: the Prada-clad women and old money men who sit on the boards of the neighborhood museums, go to a lot of cocktail parties, and endow scholarships for kicks. Their mansions and marble-face townhouses make for nifty sightseeing for those interested in architecture; and the shops along Madison Avenue offer a peek into the extravagant fashions adopted by the ultra-rich and the top designers who serve them.

Museums also play a key role on the Upper East Side, and there’s a greater concentration of top-flight museums here than anywhere else in the country, with the exception of the Mall in Washington, D.C. You’ll want to spend at least 1 day exploring Museum Mile—the Metropolitan, Guggenheim, The Frick, Cooper-Hewitt, and more are all in the area

Harlem

Best for: Dining, bars, clubs, historic sites.

What you won’t find: Theater, shopping, museums (except for the Studio Museum and the Museo del Barrio)

Parameters of the neighborhood: Harlem proper stretches from river to river, beginning at 125th Street on the West Side, 96th Street on the East Side, and 110th Street north of Central Park. East of Fifth Avenue, Spanish Harlem (El Barrio) runs between East 100th and East 125th streets.

Perhaps the most rapidly transforming neighborhood in the city, Harlem is safer and cleaner than it’s been in decades . . . but may be losing some of its intrinsic character. A largely African-American neighborhood since the 1920s—and home to some of the greatest black writers, politicians, and artists of the 20th century—the neighborhood is now drawing an increasing number of Caucasian residents, lured here by lower real-estate prices and the beauty of a brownstone-lined community. My recommendation: Visit here soon before the authentic soul and Caribbean joints disappear, the gospel churches lose their swing, and the rhythm of the streets changes its beat. There’s much to see, including dozens of well-preserved Beaux Arts brownstoners, historic homes and hopping bars and clubs.

THE OUTER BOROUGHS

Brooklyn

Best for: Museums, parks, lovely architecture, innovative galleries, dining, great views of Manhattan

What you won’t find: You find pretty much all the same types of attractions in Brooklyn that you will in Manhattan. It deserves a visit!

If Brooklyn had not traded its sovereignty to become a borough of New York City in 1898, it would be the fourth largest city in the United States, just after New York City, Los Angeles, and Chicago. With 2.6 million residents (according to the last census), it certainly is the most populous borough of the city and at 71 square miles, it’s also the largest. Which is all a long way of saying it’s very difficult to pin down the nature of Brooklyn, as it’s just too darn big to be summarized in a nutshell.

The two most affluent neighborhoods are Brooklyn Heights, which is right off the Brooklyn Bridge, boasting spectacular views of Manhattan; and Park Slope, the area surrounding Frederick Law Olmstead’s other great work of landscape architecture (after Central Park), Prospect Park. Both are stellar strolling areas, filled with lovely Beaux Arts brownstone buildings (Brooklyn Heights was the first neighborhood in the city to be landmarked).

The borough’s artists tend to live in Red Hook, Williamsburg (though many are getting priced out here), and a few hold-outs still live in DUMBO (the area “Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass”). You can pop by all for afternoons of gallery hopping. Williamsburg has one of the largest Hasidic Jewish communities in the world. Walk the streets peopled by this sect and you may feel as if you’ve stepped back into an old country Shtetl (an illusion only somewhat ruined by the incongruous but ever-present cellphones).

Eastern Europe also makes an appearance in Brighton Beach, which has the largest ex-pat Russian community in the world. It's not the friendliest area, but fascinating to visit nonetheless, with stores selling endless rows of nesting dolls and Lenin t-shirts, and small-scale nightclubs that out-glitz and out-crass Vegas. Just up the shore from Brighton Beach is famed Coney Island. It’s still an amusement park, though one with less panache than in its heyday.

Among the touristic highlights of the borough are the view from the Brooklyn Heights promenade; Peter Luger, an iconic steakhouse in Williamsburg; the shows at the Brooklyn Academy of Music; and in Park Slope a constellation of sights including the Brooklyn Museum, the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens, and Prospect Park.

The Bronx

Best for: Baseball, Italian restaurants, zoos, and gardens

What you won’t find: Museums, nightlife, other types of noteworthy food, hotels, theater

I may be condemned for this assessment, but to my mind there are only four reasons a tourist should even think of going to the Bronx: Yankee Stadium, the Bronx Zoo, the New York Botanical Gardens, and the Italian restaurants and stores of Arthur Avenue. If you have no interest in any of these sights or facilities, you can skip this giant borough without too much regret.

Queens

Best for: Museums, ethnic dining, affordable hotels

What you won’t find: Theaters, great shopping, top architecture

Archie Bunker no longer lives in Queens. In fact, the grouchy, bigoted xenophobe at the center of the famed 1970s sitcom All in the Family probably wouldn’t recognize the borough today. In just the past 50 years it’s gone from being a somewhat insulated community of Irish- and Italian-Americans to the most international community in the United States.

It’s this ability by tourists to globe trot in an afternoon that makes Queens appealing, despite the dreary, industrial look of much of it. Whether you’re downing samosas or shopping for saris in very Indian Jackson Heights; breaking plates at a Greek restaurant in Astoria; or buying miracle water and tacos at a Mexican botanica in Corona, there’s much to taste, smell, and experience.

Museums are another big draw, and the borough now tops Brooklyn for its cultural attractions, boasting four great ones: The Museum of the Moving Image, PS 1 Museum of Contemporary Art, Isamu Noguchi Galleries, and the Louis Armstrong House.

Staten Island

Best for: Views of Manhattan from the ferry

What you won’t find: Notable museums, nightlife, hotels, theaters, truly great restaurants, interesting architecture

And I’ll again be blunt: Except for the fun and free ferry ride here, there’s no reason a tourist should visit here. Yes, there are a handful of cultural and historic sites, and a new-in-2019 outlet mall, but none that justify the commute.

--Pauline Frommer

Staying Connected

Telephones

Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you’re better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience stores and drugstores sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from most payphones cost 50¢ (no pennies, please).

That said, there aren’t as many payphones on the streets of New York City as there used to be because of the prevalence of cellphones, and the ones that are there are often out of order.

To make a local call in one of the five boroughs, dial 1, followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1. For other international calls, dial 011, followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area code 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive—charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person to person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (“Information”), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn’t mean it’ll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation’s fragmented cellphone system). It’s a good bet that your phone will work in New York City, but take a look at your wireless company’s coverage map on its website before heading out.

If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won’t work, rent a phone that does from National Geographic Talk Abroad Services (tel. 800/287-5072; cellularabroad.com) or a rental-car location, but beware that you’ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

You may even consider purchasing a cheap, pay-as-you-go phone in many locations (including convenience stores!) throughout the city.

If you’re not from the U.S., you’ll be appalled at the poor reach of the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won’t work in many rural areas. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

Internet & Wi-Fi

New York is rife with Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) “hotspots” that offer free Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. A good directory of free hotspots in the city can be found at www.openwifinyc.com.

Your hotel may also provide Wi-Fi or broadband access in your room, sometimes for a hefty daily fee. It’s always surprised us that the higher-end hotels are the ones who charge for Internet access, while the budget places are more likely to use free Internet as a selling point.

You can access the Internet for free at Starbucks (www.starbucks.com/coffeehouse/wireless-internet). So, have a cup of coffee and check your e-mail at your leisure. FedEx Office (www.fedex.com/us/office/services/computer/index.html) has free Wi-Fi at most locations, as well as computers you use for 30¢ per minute. There are dozens of locations around town.

Where to Check Your E-mail in the City That Never Sleeps -- If your hotel doesn’t offer free access to its business center or a terminal in the lobby to check your e-mail (and many do), where can you go to check it if you don’t have a computer or smartphone with you?

All branches of the New York Public Library (www.nypl.org) feature computers that offer free access to the Internet, electronic databases, library catalogs, and Microsoft Office. Many branches also offer free Wi-Fi.

More free access is available at the Times Square Visitors Center, 1560 Broadway, between 46th and 47th streets (tel. 212/869-1890; Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, and Sat–Sun 8am–8pm), which has computer terminals that you can use to send e-mails. You can even send an electronic postcard, with a photo of yourself, home to Mom.

CyberCafe (www.cyber-cafe.com)—in Times Square at 250 W. 49th St., between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (tel. 212/333-4109)—can get expensive at $6.40 per half-hour, with a half-hour minimum (you’re billed $3.20 for every subsequent 15 min.). But their connection is superfast, and they offer a full range of other cyber, copy, fax, and printing services.

When to Go

Summer or winter, rain or shine, there’s always great stuff going on in New York City, so when you’re planning a trip to New York City, there’s no real “best” or “worst” time to go.

Culture hounds might come in fall, winter, and early spring, when the theater and performing-arts seasons reach their heights. During summer, many of the top cultural institutions, especially Lincoln Center, offer free, alfresco entertainment. Those who want to see the biggest hits on Broadway usually have the best luck getting tickets in the slower months of January and February.

Gourmands might find it easiest to land the best tables during July and August, when New Yorkers escape the city on weekends. If you prefer to walk every city block to take in the sights, spring and fall usually offer the mildest and most pleasant weather.

New York is a nonstop holiday party from early December through the start of the New Year. Celebrations of the season abound in festive holiday windows and events such as the lighting of the Rockefeller Center tree and the Radio City Christmas Spectacular—not to mention those terrific seasonal sales that make New York a holiday shopping bonanza.

However, keep in mind that hotel prices go sky high, and the crowds are almost intolerable. If you’d rather have more of the city to yourself—better chances at restaurant reservations and shows, and easier access to museums and other attractions—choose another time of year to visit.

Money Matters

Hotel prices are always fairly high in New York, except in the months of January and February when they plummet. Sure, you might have to bear some cold weather, but that’s when hotels are suffering from the post-holiday blues, and rooms often go for a relative song — a song in this case may mean a room with a private bathroom for as little as $99, or even less. However, be aware that the occasional convention or event, such as February’s annual Fashion Week, can sometimes throw a wrench in your winter savings plans. Spring and fall are traditionally the busiest and most expensive seasons after holiday time. Don’t expect hotels to be handing you deals, but you may be able to negotiate a decent rate.

The city is drawing more families these days, and they usually visit in the summer. Still, the prospect of heat and humidity keeps some people away, making July and the first half of August a cheaper time to visit than later in the year; good hotel deals are often available.

During the Christmas season, expect to pay top dollar for everything. The first 2 weeks of December—the shopping weeks—are the worst when it comes to scoring an affordable hotel room; that’s when shoppers from around the world converge on the town to catch the holiday spirit and spend, spend, spend. But Thanksgiving can be a great time to come, believe it or not: Business travelers have gone home, and the holiday shoppers haven’t yet arrived. It’s a little-known secret that most hotels away from the Thanksgiving Day Parade route have empty rooms, and they’re usually willing to make great deals to fill them.

Weather

Many consider that long week or 10 days that arrive each summer between mid-July and mid-August, when temperatures can go up to as high as 100°F (38°C) with 90% humidity, as New York’s worst weather. Don’t get put off by this—summer has its compensations, such as wonderful free open-air concerts and other events, as mentioned—but bear it in mind. If you are at all temperature sensitive, your odds of getting comfortable weather are better in June or September.

Another period when you might not like to stroll around the city is during January or February, when temperatures are commonly in the 20s (below 0°C) and those concrete canyons turn into wind tunnels. The city looks gorgeous for about a day after a snowfall, but the streets soon become a slushy mess. Again, you never know—temperatures have regularly been in the 30s and mild 40s (single digits Celsius) during the past few global-warmed winters. If you hit the weather jackpot, you could have a bargain bonanza (see “Money Matters,” above).

Fall and spring are the best times in New York. From April to June and September to November, temperatures are mild and pleasant, and the light is beautiful. With the leaves changing in Central Park and just the hint of crispness in the air, October is a fabulous time to be here—but expect to pay for the privilege.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years).

Tips for Families

The first place to look for babysitting is in your hotel (better yet, ask about babysitting when you reserve). Many hotels have babysitting services or will provide you with lists of reliable sitters. If this doesn’t pan out, call the Baby Sitters’ Guild (tel. 212/682-0227; www.babysittersguild.com). The sitters are licensed, insured, and bonded, and can even take your child on outings.

Elsewhere on this site you'll find kid-friendly activities and attractions, hotels, restaurants, and more. Happy surfing.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

“Green” travel in New York City? That seems like an odd combination, yet there’s a lot that New York does that makes it (in some ways) an environmentally friendly destination, not the least of which is its highly useful (and much-used) mass transit system.

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location.

In New York City? You can embrace ethical tourism by using mass transit, staying at a hotel or B&B that makes an effort to be “green,” shopping at a locally owned store, and eating at a diner, coffee shop, or mom-and-pop eatery instead of at a fast-food chain.

New York recycles its bottles and cans (including bottled water); look for containers for recyclables when you are discarding your litter. You can even contribute to sustaining the environment by going to a baseball game. The new home of the New York Mets, Citi Field, was built with 95% recycled steel, has ultraefficient field lighting that cuts energy consumption by as much as 50%, and has an on-site irrigation system and low-flow plumbing fixtures such as waterless urinals and sensor-activated faucets that help save an estimated 4 million gallons of water a year. See www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tips for Senior Travelers

New York subway and bus fares are half price for people 65 and older. It takes some doing, however, to get the discount. Click here for details. 

Many museums and sights (and some theaters and performance halls) offer discounted admittance and tickets to seniors, so don’t be shy about asking. When these discounts exist, we've listed them on this site. Always bring an ID card, especially if you’ve kept your youthful glow.

Many hotels offer senior discounts but often these prices won't be as low as the ones offerred through other types of discounting services so do your homework.

Visitor Information

NYC & Company runs www.nycgo.com which offers  awealth of free information.

Downtown -- For those New Yorkers who live Uptown, lower Manhattan is practically a different planet, but one which has much to offer. The website for the Alliance for Downtown New York (www.downtownny.com), updated daily, is a trusty source to keep abreast on new developments and exciting downtown events.

For Bus & Subway Information -- For additional transit information, go to the Metropolitan Transit Authority’s MTA/New York City Transit’s website www.mta.info. It is surprisingly good. Riders with disabilities should direct inquiries to tel. 718/596-8585; hearing-impaired riders can call tel. 718/596-8273. For MetroCard information, call tel. 718/330-1234, or go online to www.mta.info/metrocard.

Getting There

By Bus

Busing to and from New York City from major East Coast cities has become the single most cost-effective way to get into town. A number of companies offer frequent, regular service between most of the major cities in the east for a fraction of what you’d pay by train or plane. From Philadelphia, the average ride might range from $10 to $20; for Boston or Washington, D.C., you’ll pay $15 to $35, but occasional specials reduce the fares. The website GoToBus.com provides a comprehensive list of options, but I’ve had good personal experiences with Megabus (tel. 877/GO2-MEGA [462-6342]) and Vamoose (tel. 212/695-6766).

By Car

From the New Jersey Turnpike (I-95) and points west, there are three Hudson River crossings to the city’s West Side: the Holland Tunnel (lower Manhattan), the Lincoln Tunnel (Midtown), and the George Washington Bridge (upper Manhattan). From upstate New York, take the New York State Thruway (I-87), which crosses the Hudson River on the Tappan Zee Bridge and becomes the Major Deegan Expressway (I-87) through the Bronx. For the East Side, continue to the Robert F. Kennedy Bridge (formerly called the Triborough Bridge) and then down the FDR Drive. For the West Side, take the Cross Bronx Expressway (I-95) to the Henry Hudson Parkway, or the Taconic State Parkway to the Saw Mill River Parkway to the Henry Hudson Parkway south.

From New England, the New England Thruway (I-95) connects with the Bruckner Expressway (I-278), which leads to the Robert F. Kennedy Bridge and the FDR Drive on the East Side. For the West Side, take the Bruckner to the Cross Bronx Expressway (I-95) to the Henry Hudson Parkway south. Note that you’ll have to pay tolls along some of these roads and at most crossings. If your state has an E-ZPass program (www.ezpass.com), as most states in the Northeast do, your pass will allow you to go through the designated E-ZPass lanes.

Once you arrive in Manhattan, park your car in a garage (expect to pay $45+ per day) and leave it there. Don’t use your car for traveling within the city. Public transportation, taxis, and walking will easily get you where you want to go without the headaches of parking, gridlock, and dodging crazy cabbies. In addition, depending on where in the city you park, you may have to ante up a $15 congestion fee.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) runs frequent service to New York City’s Penn Station, on Seventh Avenue between 31st and 33rd streets, where you can get a taxi, subway, or bus to your hotel. To get the best rates, book early (as much as 6 months in advance) and travel on weekends. If you’re traveling to New York from a city along Amtrak’s Northeast Corridor—such as Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, or Washington, D.C.—Amtrak may be your best travel bet now that they’ve rolled out their high-speed Acela trains. The Acela Express trains cut travel time from D.C. down to 2 1/2 hours, and travel time from Boston to a lightning-quick 3 hours.

By Plane
Three major airports serve New York City: John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK, www.panynj.gov/airports/jfk.html; tel. 718/244-4444) in Queens, about 15 miles from midtown Manhattan; LaGuardia Airport (LGA, www.panynj.gov/airports/laguardia.html; tel. 718/533-3400), also in Queens, about 10 miles from Midtown; and Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR, www.panynj.gov/airports/newark-liberty.html; tel. 973/961-6000) in nearby New Jersey, about 17 miles from midtown New York. Almost every major domestic airline serves at least one of the New York–area airports; most serve two or all three.

To save money on airfare into NYC, we recommend the following strategies:

Book at the right time. It sounds odd, but you can often save a good amount by booking domestic airfare 28–35 days in advance of departure. That figure comes from a study of over 40 million airfare transactions that an industry group called the Airlines Reporting Corporation undertook in 2023. Book earlier than that, and you won’t have access to the lowest-priced seats, as the airlines only release them when they have an idea of how the plane is selling. Book too close to departure, and the airline knows they’ve “got you” and will charge more. That same study found that those who purchased their tickets on a Sunday spent 5% less statistically—not a huge amount, but still a savings (the savings are higher for international fares).

Fly when others don’t. Those who fly Friday, Tuesday, or Wednesday, and who stay over a Saturday night, generally pay less than those who fly at more popular times, according to the study cited above.

Do a smart Web search. Such search engines as Momondo.com and Skyscanner.com will search all the discount sites as well as the airline sites directly, so that you get a broader and more impartial search. The only airline that won’t come up is Southwest Airlines, so be sure to search it separately, as it now flies into LaGuardia and Newark airports.

Don’t be particular about airports. Go to whichever airport is offering the cheapest fares. None of the three New York City airports are any more or less convenient to the city than the others (although LaGuardia is somewhat closer). JFK currently has a slightly better record than the other two in terms of delays and lost luggage, but it’s not enough to influence your buying decision.

We should note that MacArthur Airport on Long Island and Stewart Airport in the Hudson Valley are now hubs for such low-cost carriers as Allegiant and Frontier (into Stewart) and Breeze (into MacArthur). You might be able to save by flying one of those carriers into these airports but, before buying, you MUST factor in the cost of transportation to the city. Both airports are much farther away than LaGuardia, JFK, or Newark, and the cost of a car or taxi into the city could wipe out any savings on the flight (public transportation would be very complicated).

Be anonymous in your search. Clear your cookies and engage the privacy setting on your browser, or better yet, use a different browser or computer than you usually do when searching for airfares. The airlines and airfare booking sites do track users (though they deny it) and are getting increasingly expert in serving up fares tailored to customers’ past buying history. To see the actual lowest rates, you may have to cloak your identity.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; see www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Medical Requirements

Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.)

Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least three days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application.

Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn’t have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission’s website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the “Visas to the U.S.” section of the American Embassy London’s website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

What You Can Bring into the U.S. -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so forth). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you’re going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

What You Can Take Home from the U.S. -- If you’re an international visitor, for information on what you’re allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 0800/428-786; from outside New Zealand, 649/300-5399; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

New York is more accessible to travelers with disabilities than ever before. The city’s bus system is wheelchair-friendly, and most of the major sightseeing attractions are easily accessible. Even so, always call first to be sure that the places you want to go to are fully accessible.

Most hotels are ADA compliant, with suitable rooms for wheelchair-bound travelers as well as those with other disabilities. But before you book, ask lots of questions based on your needs. Many city hotels are in older buildings that have been modified to meet requirements; still, elevators and bathrooms can be on the small side, and other impediments may exist. If you have mobility issues, you’ll probably do best to book one of the city’s newer hotels, which tend to be more spacious and accommodating. At www.access-able.com, you’ll find links to New York’s best accessible accommodations (click on “World Destinations”). Some Broadway theaters and other performance venues provide total wheelchair accessibility; others provide partial accessibility. Many also offer lower-priced tickets for theatergoers with disabilities and their companions, though you’ll need to check individual policies and reserve in advance.

Hospital Audiences, Inc. (tel. 212/575-7676; www.hainyc.org) arranges attendance and provides details about accessibility at cultural institutions as well as cultural events adapted for people with disabilities. Services include “Describe!,” which allows visually impaired theatergoers to enjoy theater events.

Another terrific source for travelers with disabilities who are coming to New York City is Big Apple Greeter (tel. 212/669-8159; www.bigapplegreeter.org). All of its employees are extremely well versed in accessibility issues. They can provide a resource list of city agencies that serve those with disabilities, and they sometimes have special discounts available to theater and music performances. Big Apple Greeter even offers one-to-one tours that pair volunteers with visitors with disabilities; they can even introduce you to the public transportation system if you like. Reserve at least 1 week ahead.