October 24, 2024
In 2019, when the multiuse complex known as Hudson Yards opened in New York City, the centerpiece was a 150-foot-tall climbable sculpture called The Vessel.
Designed by British architect Thomas Featherwick and built at a cost of $200 million, the work wasn't what you'd call universally beloved. New Yorkers gave it nicknames like "the Shawarma" for its resemblance to meat on a vertical spit. The New York Times described the Vessel as a "waste-basket-shaped stairway to nowhere, sheathed in a gaudy, copper-cladded steel."
I was one of the few who disagreed. I thought this modern-day architectural folly was a wonderfully whimsical addition to the New York skyline, not to mention catnip for shutterbugs.
Climbing up and down the Escher-esque stairways (inspired by ancient Indian stepwells, according to the architect) offered newly scrambled vistas at each level as well as splendid river views. For me, the Vessel recalled a favorite book of mine when I was about 12: William Sleator's House of Stairs, about a group of teenage orphans who are brought, as part of a government experiment in mind control, to a massive space with no walls, ceiling, or floors—just stairways. Maybe that's not the most positive connection, but the Vessel environment did have the power to spark my imagination.
And it seemed like affection for the attraction was growing among the public, based on the many tourists the site drew. Then, tragically, four people committed suicide by jumping off the Vessel on separate occasions, forcing Hudson Yards to close the structure to visitors in 2021.
Three years later—on October 21, 2024—The Vessel reopened, albeit with some major changes. I laced up my sneakers to take another climb and see if the attraction is still worthwhile.
The Vessel was free to climb when it first opeened. Now, there's a $10 entry fee.
That pays for airport-like security, with staff members checking bags for weapons before visitors walk through a metal detector.
I was asked to go through the metal detector twice, but I didn't mind. Given the grim history of the place, it's smart for employees to be on the lookout for copycats or other folks who may want to cause mischief.
But whoever does the hiring at Hudson Yards has done a smart thing: They've employed a crew of Chatty Cathys. Despite the stern look on the guard's face in this picture, I found the security personnel to be remarkably hospitable. They went out of their way to talk with me about where I was from, whether I was enjoying the Vessel, and how my photos were turning out.
Perhaps this is part of the new suicide prevention measures—I was there alone, after all. But the friendliness certainly makes visitors feel welcome, and in a way that's quite unique. Trust me: You won't get talked up by security guards at any other NYC attraction.
The most noticeable physical change to The Vessel is the netting that now acts as a protective barrier over the open parts of the structure.
Frankly, I was surprised that the powers-that-be at Hudson Yards hadn't figured out a more elegant solution that fit better with the aesthetic of the structure. Remember, they had 3 years to figure this out.
As I continued to wander through the Vessel, though, the netting started to feel less intrusive (especially at one angle; see below). You can easily take photos with unobstructed views by simply angling your camera through holes in the netting—something that wouldn't have been possible if other types of barriers had been installed. With glass, there would likely be a glare at many times of day.
And since the netting is made of steel ropes, it should be effective in stopping people from jumping, which is of course the most important reason it's there.
Something more disappointing: About a third of the structure is now closed to the public. I'm guessing that decision was made in order to make the attraction easier to police. But you do run into a lot of dead ends now, requiring you to circle back.
Though I was disappointed by not being able to go everywhere on the structure, having some parts closed means that the netting isn't everywhere. And you can get a lovely cityscape shot like this one, from across the structure. Not a net in sight.
I left my revisit of the Vessel feeling invigorated. So I'll keep my thumbs-up recommendation in place (you can read an upated version of my original review here).
I got in my daily steps in a fun way while enjoying a temperate autumn afternoon. I met some really nice people, took in some stunning views, and got to see a spot that looks like nowhere else on earth.
Sure, I wish it were still free. But look on the bright side: $10 is easily one of the lowest admission fees in the city.
