Bring your stretchy pants: Mexico City is one of the world's top foodie destinations. It's hard to go wrong here, so if you see a place that looks promising, head on in for a meal. But if you'd rather not set out on your own, we guarantee you'll leave satisfied at the following…
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Mexico City Attractions
The diversity of Mexico City's attractions springs from its complex history. From simple bustling mercados to museums filled with treasures of artistic and historic significance, Mexico City has layers and layers of cultural richness to explore. Mexico City was built on the ruins of the ancient city of Tenochti ...
The diversity of Mexico City's attractions springs from its complex history. From simple bustling mercados to museums filled with treasures of artistic and historic significance, Mexico City has layers and layers of cultural richness to explore.
Mexico City was built on the ruins of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan. A downtown portion of the city, comprising almost 700 blocks and 1,500 buildings, is designated the Centro Histórico (Historic Center). The area has surged in popularity, and once-neglected buildings are being converted into fashionable shops and restaurants, recalling its former colonial charm.
Remember that this is a major Latin city; dress is more professional and formal here than in other parts of the country. The altitude keeps the temperature mild, which is often a surprise for travelers with preconceptions of Mexico as perpetually hot. In summer, always be prepared for rain, which falls for an hour or two almost daily. In winter, carry a jacket or sweater -- stone museums are chilly inside, and when the sun goes down, the outside air gets quite cold. If you want to blend in with the crowd, black is always the new black, especially in the winter.
Día de las Bicis -- The traffic-congested streets of Mexico City can be daunting for drivers, let alone travelers who wish to reach their destination on two wheels. However, every Sunday bicycles rule. As part of a program called Muévete en Bici (Get Moving on a Bike), the city shuts down the middle lanes of Reforma -- from near the entrance of Chapultepec Park to the zócalo, although the route can change depending on construction or special events -- one of the city's most prominent avenues, so that up to 10,000 cyclists, and their friends the runners, walkers, and even the odd stilt walker, can have free rein of the pavement. The best part is that the route passes by some of the city's most famous monuments and museums, many of which are free to the public on Sundays. The streets are cleared for bicyclists from 8am to 2pm.
In early 2010 the city launched EcoBici (tel. 55/5005-2424; www.ecobici.df.gob.mx), a bike-sharing service. With more than 80 stations scattered across Roma, Condesa, Zona Rosa, and Centro Historico, this is by far the most convenient option for commuters and leisurely riders alike. Although the program was designed with locals in mind, visitors are also welcome to pay the annual fee of 300 pesos at one of the customer service centers -- either on Rosas Moreno 152 B. in Colonia San Rafael or Nuevo Leon 78 in Condesa. In exchange you receive an EcoBici card, which grants you access to the red bikes parked at the stations. Simply return the bike when you've finished to any EcoBici station.
Festival de México en el Centro Histórico -- In March of every year, a series of concerts, cultural events, art exhibits, and public performances takes place in -- and in honor of -- Mexico City's historic downtown district. For more information or a calendar of events, check out the Festival de México website (www.festival.org.mx).
Mexico City Fun-derground -- Who says you need a lot of money to have a great time while traveling? For the cost of Metro fare (5 pesos!) you can get a true sense of Mexico City's quirkiness. Most major stations are also miniature underground malls, complete with fast food, snack stalls, and shops.
Zócalo station features dioramas and large photographs of the different periods in the history of the Valley of Mexico. The Pino Suárez station is home to the preserved ruins of a pyramid dedicated to the Aztec god Ehecatl. In addition to being the god of the wind, Ehecatl was also responsible for the cardinal directions, which is appropriate because Pino Suárez is one of the Metro's most important hubs. Science geeks will not want to miss a trip to the La Raza station in the northern part of the city. The "Túnel de la Ciencia" (Tunnel of Science), a permanent exhibition maintained by the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), links the platforms for lines 3 and 5 and features giant slides of fractals and embryos as well as a glow-in-the-dark rendition of the universe on the ceiling. Director Paul Verhoeven used the Insurgentes station as a backdrop for the 1990 Arnold Schwarzenegger flick Total Recall, painting the Metro cars gray in order to portray his vision of the future.
If you find yourself in the company of well-off Chilangos -- perhaps at a gallery in Polanco or a restaurant in San Angel -- mention that you rode the Metro. You'll likely be met with stunned expressions, as many members of the upper class have never set foot underground and will think you're either crazy or brave for trying it.
Mighty Tenochtitlan -- What 16th-century metropolis was home to approximately 200,000 inhabitants, had intricate botanical and zoological gardens filled with thousands of exotic species, and had markets where as many as 40,000 people went to trade a menagerie of goods on a regular basis? London? Nope -- there were only 50,000 people living there in 1500. Barcelona? No, sir; the Spaniards had not yet conceived of the concept of botanical gardens. How about Constantinople? Nope. The European soldiers who helped conquer this city said its markets outshone even the Turkish bazaars.
The city in question was called Tenochtitlan, the capital of the mighty Aztec empire. We know the area today as Mexico City.
When the Spanish arrived, they must have felt as though they had landed on another planet; the Aztecs had constructed an entire metropolis on the boggy marshes of Lake Texcoco. The city was intersected by a series of causeways, one of which was 8km (5 miles) long and wide enough for eight horsemen abreast to pass through. Up to 50,000 canoes plied through these causeways and corresponding canals, transporting everything from corn to brightly colored fabrics and obsidian blades. The famous Spanish chronicler Bernal Díaz wrote that "with such wonderful sites to gaze on we did not know what to say, or if this was real that we saw before our eyes," in his account of the siege of Tenochtitlan in True Story of the Conquest of New Spain.
Unfortunately, the Spaniards hadn't traveled thousands of miles just to send home pretty postcards -- after repeated attacks, famine, and a smallpox epidemic, Tenochtitlan fell on August 13, 1521, and Cuautéhmoc, the last Aztec emperor, was taken prisoner.
If you'd like to get a better feel for Tenochtitlan, the Museo de la Ciudad de México has a fine collection of maps and pictographic representations of the time period, and a few farmers still grow their produce using ancient floating garden methods in Xochimilco.
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Park/Garden
Alameda Park
Today the lovely tree-filled Alameda Park attracts pedestrians, cotton-candy vendors, strollers, lovers, and organ grinders. Long ago, the site was an Aztec marketplace. When the conquistadors took over in the mid-1500s, heretics were burned at the stake here under the Spanish… -
Religious Site
Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe
Within the northern city limits is the famous Basílica of Guadalupe -- not just another church, but the central place of worship for Mexico's patron saint and the home of the image responsible for uniting pre-Hispanic Indian mysticism with Catholic beliefs. It is virtually impossible… -
The Performing Arts
Café Teatro El Vicio
This is one of the more popular cabaret/performance spaces in Mexico City, now home to satirical plays, stand-up comedy, and nearly everything in between. There’s a little something here for the off-beat theater lover in everyone. This site opened in 1954 by the Mexican poet Salvador…Col. Coyoacán, at the corner of Centenario
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Historic Site
Casa de los Azulejos
This "House of Tiles" is one of Mexico City's most precious colonial gems and popular meeting places. Covered in gorgeous blue-and-white tiles, it dates from the end of the 1500s, when it was built for the count of the Valley of Orizaba. According to the oft-told story, during the… -
Historic Site
Castillo de Chapultepec/Museo Nacional de Historia
This site has been occupied by a fortress since the days of the Aztec (archaeologists discovered an ancient Teotihuacán settlement behind the landmark), although the present palace wasn't built until 1784. The castle offers a beautiful view of Mexico City. During the French… -
Religious Site
Catedral Metropolitana
The impressive, towering cathedral, begun in 1567 and finished in 1788, blends baroque, neoclassical, and Mexican churrigueresque architecture. As you look around the cathedral and the Sagrario (chapel) next to it, note how the building has sunk into the soft lake bottom beneath. The… -
Park/Garden
Chapultepec Park
One of the biggest city parks in the world, 220-hectare (543-acre) Chapultepec Park is more than a playground; it's virtually the centerpiece of the city. Besides accommodating picnickers on worn-away grass under centuries-old trees, it has canoes on the lake; jogging and bridle… -
Religious Site
Convent of San Bernardino de Siena
This 16th-century building is noted for its flower petals carved in stone -- a signature of the Indians who did most of the work -- on 16th-century retablos (painted boards), including one of three such altarpieces in the country that were created by pre-Hispanic Indians and that has… -
Park/Garden
Floating Gardens of Xochimilco
In Xochimilco are more than 80km (50 miles) of canals known as the Floating Gardens. They consist of two main parts. The first is the tourism-oriented area in the Historic Center of town, where colorful boats called trajineras take loads of tourists and locals celebrating a special… -
Historic Site
Gran Hotel Ciudad de México
Originally a department store, the Gran Hotel boasts one of the most splendid interiors of any downtown building. Step inside to see the lavish lobby, with gilded open elevators on both sides, topped with a breathtaking 1908 stained-glass canopy by Jacques Graber. On the fourth… -
The Performing Arts
Jorongo Bar
Some of city's best mariachi and traditional Mexican music is found in this popular bar, located off the lobby of the Sheraton María Isabel. This bar has enjoyed a reputation for outstanding traditional music for decades -- it's an institution, with many local regulars. Monday… -
Landmark
La Torre Latinoamericana
From the observation deck on the 44th floor of this soaring skyscraper, the Latin American Tower, you can take in fabulous views of the entire city. Buy a ticket for the deck at the booth as you approach the elevators. Tokens for the telescope are on sale here, too. You then take an… -
Landmark
Monumento a la Revolución and Museo Nacional de la Revolución
The Art Deco Monument to the Revolution, in the large Plaza de la República, has a curious history. The government of Porfirio Díaz, who was perennially "reelected" president of Mexico, began construction of what was intended to be a new legislative chamber. However, only the dome… -
Landmark
Monumento a los Héroes de la Independencia
The Monument to the Heroes of Independence is the most noted of Mexico City's exceptional public sculptures and monuments. The "Angel" is both a landmark and homage to those who lost their lives fighting for independence. It's also a central stage -- along with the zócalo -- for many… -
Museum
Museo Casa de León Trotsky
What if? That’s the poignant question that’s at the heart of this small museum, the home of Leon Trotsky during his exile in Mexico. What if Trotsky had been able to stop the rise of Stalin? Likely thousands of Russians would not have been killed and the Cold War may never have…Col. Coyoacán
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Museum
Museo Dolores Olmedo
Millionaire businesswoman Dolores Olmedo opened this sprawling museum and its grounds, once a hacienda, to the public in 1994. The five-building complex holds nearly 145 works by Diego Rivera (many are of Olmedo and her children), several dozen by Frida Kahlo, and more than a dozen…Xochimilco
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Museum
Museo Estudio Diego Rivera
Not to be confused with Museo Mural Diego Rivera (Anahuacalli), this was the famed Mexican artist's studio and home, designed for him by Mexican architect Juan O’Gorman in 1931 (who, coincidentally, completed the Anahuacalli museum after Rivera's death). Rivera lived in the house…Col. San Ángel
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Museum
Museo Franz Mayer
Heaven for lovers of antiques, this collection of decorative furniture, rugs, paintings, ceramics, and silverware was the life's work of German immigrant Franz Mayer. Upon his death in 1975, he bequeathed the collection to his adopted country and we all are the richer for it. Some…$ -
Museum
Museo Frida Kahlo
Today, Frida Kahlo's life is nearly as famous as her art. Crippled in a horrific bus crash as a teenager and then married to the philandering muralist Diego Rivera (who even bedded Kahlo's sister), she has become a symbol, for many, of triumph over pain, and the healing power of art.…Col. Coyoacán
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Museum
Museo Mural Diego Rivera (Anahuacalli)
Anahuacalli means "House of the Valley by the Waters" or the "Valley of Mexico" in Nahuatl (the language of the pre-Hispanic Mexicans) and the pieces contained in this museum are a true reflection of pre-Hispanic Mexico, as seen through the eyes of artist Diego Rivera. The museum was…Col. Coyoacan
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Museum
Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Anthropology Museum)
Mexico City's anthropology museum is considered one of the best in the world and is most certainly the best museum in Mexico (it's also the most visited). That being said, this showcase of Mexico's history and culture covers a full 10 buildings and tackling them can be… -
Museum
Museo Nacional de Arte (MUNAL)
The MUNAL, founded in 1982, exhibits a wide collection of Mexican art that ranges from the sixteenth century up to the mid-twentieth century, with a permanent collection of more than 3,000 works. The permanent collection is intended to provide an expansive view of the evolution of… -
Museum
Museo Nacional de la Estampa
This museum (roughly translated, the National Print Museum) is dedicated to preserving and promoting the history and talents of Mexican graphic art and artists. It also showcases artists who use materials and techniques that transcend traditional print art to include works of…Historic center
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Museum
Museo Soumaya
Named for the late wife of multibillionaire businessman Carlos Slim (and designed to resemble her neck), the Museo Soumaya is home to the largest collection of casts of sculptures by Rodin outside of France. Slim's late wife was an admirer of Rodin and Slim collected more than 300…Col. Ampliación Granada (near Polanco)
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Museum
Museo Tamayo
The museum, which is part of the Institución Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Mexican national network of museums, re-opened in 2013 after a yearlong renovation that resulted in an expansion from three exhibit halls to five. Though still primarily dedicated to the private collection… -
Museum
Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (MUAC)
The MUAC building, by Teodoro González de León, one of Mexico’s most renowned architects, is itself a work of art, with a futuristic design and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that flood the building with natural light. Located in the south of the city in the Centro Cultural…Centro Cultural Universitario, near Col. Coyoacán
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Museum
Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil (MACG)
The man behind this museum was Dr. Alvar Carrillo Gil, an entrepreneur who started his art collection with a drawing by José Clemente Orozco titled "Chole" (1913-1915), which sparked a passion for art. He himself dabbled in painting for the last 20 years of his life. He had quite a… -
Museum
Museo de Arte Moderno
Mexico City's shrine to the country's most noteworthy twentieth-century artists, the Museum of Modern Art contains major works by such heavy hitters as Diego Rivera, Juan O’Gorman, Frida Kahlo, surrealist painters Remedios Varo and Leonora Carrington, as well as Rufino Tamayo, David…Near Chapultepec Park
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Museum
Museo de Arte Popular
A relative newcomer to a city with an abundance of museums (having opened in 2006) the Museo de Arts Popular wears a number of proverbial hats. A folk art museum, it houses eye-poppingly beautiful handicrafts from across Mexico, while simultaneously covering the country’s history and… -
Museum
Museo de la Ciudad de Mexico
History is steeped into the very stones of the Museum of the City of Mexico. It stands on what was the Iztapalapa Causeway, near where Hernán Cortés and Moctezuma II had their tumultuous first meeting. Later that spot became the eighteenth-century baroque Palacio de los Condes de… -
Museum
Museo del Caracol
Named for the building's snail shell shape, the Museo del Caracol spirals its way through the history of Mexico and its struggle for independence. The story is told in a wonderfully visceral fashion through a series of dioramas and models, which make it fun for people of all ages…Chapultepec Park
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Landmark
Palacio Nacional and the Diego Rivera Murals
This complex of countless rooms, wide stone stairways, and numerous courtyards adorned with carved brass balconies was once where the president of Mexico worked, and it remains an important site for presidential meetings and events. But it's better known for the fabulous second-floor… -
The Performing Arts
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Although various groups perform around the city, the finest offering is at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, where the famed Ballet Folklórico de México performs twice a week. The Ballet Folklórico is a celebration of pre- and post-Hispanic dancing. A typical program includes Aztec ritual… -
Landmark
Palacio de Minería
Built in the 1800s, this "mining palace" is one of architect Manuel Tolsá's finest works -- considered a masterpiece of Latin American neoclassicism -- and one of the capital's handsomest buildings. Formerly the school of mining, it's occasionally used today for concerts and cultural… -
Museum
Papalote Museo del Niño
This is a "please touch" museum for kids where nothing is off-limits. Climb up a manmade tree, test your senses in the dark labyrinth, lie on a bed of nails, or just swing in the playground. The main museum area has activities for kids of all sizes with some reserved for older kids…$$Chapultepec Park
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Neighborhood
Plaza de Santo Domingo
This fascinating plaza -- a wonderful slice of Mexican life -- has arcades on one side, a Dominican church on another. A statue of the Corregidora of Querétaro, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, dominates the plaza. The plaza is best known for the scribes who compose and type letters for… -
Neighborhood
Plaza de las Tres Culturas
Three cultures converge here: Aztec, Spanish, and contemporary Mexican. Surrounded by modern office and apartment buildings are large remains of the Aztec city of Tlatelolco, site of the last battle of the conquest of Mexico. To one side is the Church of Santiago. During the Aztec… -
Landmark
Rotonda de los Hombres Ilustres
The din of traffic recedes in the serene resting place where Mexico's military, political, and artistic elite are buried. It's more like an outdoor monument museum than a cemetery; the stone markers stand in a double circle around an eternal flame. A stroll here is a trip through… -
Historic Site
Secretaría de Educación Pública
Originally built in 1922 as a convent, this building became the home of the Secretary of Public Education in 1922 and was decorated with a great series of more than 200 Diego Rivera murals, dating from 1923 and 1928, that cover over 1,500 sq. m (16,146 sq. ft.) of wall space. Other… -
Landmark
Suprema Corte de Justicia
The Supreme Court of Justice, built between 1935 and 1941, is the highest court in the country. Inside, on the main staircase and its landings, are Orozco murals depicting a theme of justice. -
Museum
Templo Mayor and Museo del Templo Mayor
In 1978, workmen digging on the east side of the Metropolitan Cathedral, next to the Palacio Nacional, unearthed an exquisite Aztec stone of the moon goddess Coyolxauhqui. Major excavations by Mexican archaeologists followed, and they uncovered interior remains of the Pyramid of…Historic center
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Park/Garden
UNAM Sculpture Garden
Want to escape the Distrito Federal without getting on a bus? No, it's not a trick question. The campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) is technically a separate city with its own transportation system, police force, and government, and has therefore escaped… -
Landmark
Zócalo
Every Spanish colonial city in North America was laid out according to a textbook plan, with a plaza at the center surrounded by a church, government buildings, and military headquarters. Because Mexico City was the capital of New Spain, its zócalo is one of the grandest, graced on…
Mexico City Shopping
From handicrafts to the finest in designer apparel, Mexico City is a marvelous place for shopping. From malls to mercados, to kitschy boutiques, numerous places display fascinating native products and sophisticated goods. The two best districts for browsing boutiques are on and off Avenida Presidente Masaryk, i ...
From handicrafts to the finest in designer apparel, Mexico City is a marvelous place for shopping. From malls to mercados, to kitschy boutiques, numerous places display fascinating native products and sophisticated goods.
The two best districts for browsing boutiques are on and off Avenida Presidente Masaryk, in Polanco, and the Zona Rosa. Polanco's shops include Burberrys of London, Christian Dior, Versace, Gucci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani, Tiffany's, and Cartier. Think Beverly Hills's Rodeo Drive, or Paris's Champs-Elysées, and you'll get the picture. The 12 square blocks at the heart of the Zona Rosa are home to antiques shops, boutiques, art galleries, silver shops, and fine jewelers.
For a taste of urban and hip, check out the shops that are sprouting up in Roma and Condesa, where you'll find the work of independent fashion designers, sneakers in every color of the rainbow, and even a boutique dedicated to lucha libre.
Art
If you're looking for a centralized display of street art, visit Border, Zacatecas 43, Roma Sur (tel. 55/5584-7557; www.border.com.mx).
Books
About the most convenient foreign- and Spanish-language bookstore in Mexico City, with a good selection of guidebooks and texts on Mexico, is Librería Gandhi, Av. Juárez 4, near Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas (tel. 55/2625-0606; www.gandhi.com.mx), right across from the Bellas Artes. It's open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm, Sunday from 11am to 8pm. The Museo Nacional de Antropología, in Chapultepec Park (tel. 55/5553-1902 or 55/5211-0754; www.mna.inah.gob.mx), also has a fair selection of books on Mexico, particularly special-interest guides. It's open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 7pm. Also in Chapultepec, the bookstore Otro Lugar de la Mancha, Esopo 11 Chapultepec near Avenida Presidente Masaryk (tel. 55/5280-4826; www.lamancha.com.mx), offers a small but outstanding collection of books, music, and art, plus an upstairs cafe in a historic home. It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 10pm, Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 6pm.
Jewelry
Besides the shops mentioned, dozens of jewelry stores and optical shops are on Madero from Motolinía to the zócalo, in the portals facing the National Palace. Nacional Monte de Piedad (National Pawn Shop), also opposite the National Palace, has an enormous jewelry selection. The first Latin American branch of Tiffany's is on Avenida Presidente Masaryk in Polanco.
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El Hijo Del Santo
Fans of lucha libre deserve to have a nice quiet place where they can reflect on the beauty of wrestling in tights and shiny masks. Named after one of the most famous names in Mexican lucha libre wrestling, this cafe also houses a quirky boutique filled with wrestling merchandise,… -
Arts & Crafts
Exposición Nacional de Arte Popular (FONART)
This store is usually loaded with crafts: papier-mâché figurines, textiles, earthenware, colorful candelabras, hand-carved wooden masks, straw goods, beads, bangles, and glass. The Fonda Nacional para el Fomento de las Artes (FONART), a government organization that helps village…Centro
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Art
Galleria López Quiroga
Items include auction-quality works of art by contemporary Latin American masters, including Toledo, Tamayo, and Siqueiros. The gallery is not accessible by Metro; take a cab. It's open Monday to Friday from 10am to 7pm and Saturday from 10am to 2pm.Polanco
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Jamaica Flower Market
The Aztecs may have been violent and downright bloodthirsty, but they adored flowers, almost to the point of worship. The flower markets you'll find around the city are direct descendants of the ones that existed more than 500 years ago. The most splendid of these modern markets is…Colonia Jamaica
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Lagunilla Market
This is one of the most interesting and unusual markets in Mexico -- but watch out for pickpockets. It's most intriguing on Sundays, when the Lagunilla becomes a colorful outdoor market filling the streets for blocks. Arrive around 9am. Vendors sell everything from axes to antiques.…La Lagunilla
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Mercado Insurgentes
Mercado Insurgentes is a full-fledged crafts market tucked into the Zona Rosa. Because of its address, you might expect exorbitant prices, but vendors in the maze of stalls are eager to bargain, and good buys aren't hard to come by.Zona Rosa
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Arts & Crafts
Mercado de La Ciudadela
An excellent place to get authentic arts and crafts of all sorts, this market has hundreds of stalls with goods from all over Mexico. You'll find talavera pottery, hand-embroidered clothing, papier mache skulls, leather goods and much more. Many are of very high quality; antiques are…Centro
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Mercado de la Merced
This is the city's biggest market and among the most fascinating in the country; the intense activity and energy level are akin to those at Oaxaca's Mercado Abastos Market. Officially, it's housed in several modern buildings, but shops line the tidy, crowded streets all the way to…Centro Historico
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Jewelry
Nacional Monte de Piedad (National Pawnshop)
This building used to be a pawnshop, but now is reserved for the more profitable and saleable jewelry, with a couple of small rooms set aside for art and antiques. Pedro Romero de Terreros, the Count of Regla, an 18th-century silver magnate from Pachuca, donated the present building…Centro
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Art
OMR. Galleria
This gallery has earned a reputation for discovering and introducing emerging talents and new artists from Latin America. It's open Monday through Friday from 10am to 3pm and 4 to 7pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm.Col. Roma
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Clothing
Pineda Covalin
This boutique shop created by two Mexican designers integrates Mexican culture and traditions into its fashionable designs. The beautiful pieces filled with vibrant colors include silk ties and scarves, handbags, shoes, and jewelry. The chain now has four stores in Mexico City, plus…Polanco
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Jewelry
Tane
Located in the ritzy Centro Comercial Santa Fe, this is a branch of one of Mexico's top silver designers, with other locations found only in the best hotels and shopping centers. The quantity of high-quality silver work is enormous. You'll see jewelry, platters, pitchers, plates,…San Angel
Mexico City Nightlife
The fiesta is by nature sacred, literally or figuratively, and above all it is the advent of the unusual. -- Octavio Paz, The Labyrinth of Solitude Mexico City is the sort of megalopolis where you can show up at a house party at 11pm on a Monday and find the place already bustling with people. Not only are Chil ...
The fiesta is by nature sacred, literally or figuratively, and above all it is the advent of the unusual.
-- Octavio Paz, The Labyrinth of Solitude
Mexico City is the sort of megalopolis where you can show up at a house party at 11pm on a Monday and find the place already bustling with people. Not only are Chilangos master revelers who wouldn't scoff at a midweek party, but they don't put down their beer for a minor inconvenience such as sunrise. On any given night, you can find art gallery openings, new moon ceremonies, crowded dance floors, and independent movie screenings. If you're a night owl, you'll find plenty of fellow tecolotes.
Crime at Night -- Leave valuables -- especially watches and jewelry -- at your hotel, and bring only the cash you will need. While I list Metro stops, these should probably be used only for orientation; take only authorized sitio taxis. Your hotel can help with these arrangements. If you're really short on cash and are going to head to your destination before 9pm, take the Metro there and hire a taxi for the ride back.
A Note of Caution for Garibaldi Square -- Plaza de Garibaldi, especially at night, was previously known for thieves looking to separate tourists from their valuables. Although the plaza has recently been renovated and the police presence increased, we still recommend a visit by private taxi. If you go, don't take credit cards or excess money with you. Go with a crowd of friends rather than alone, or take a tour that includes Garibaldi. Until the new plaza settles into its rhythm, it remains to be seen how much public safety will be improved.
The Entertainment Scene
Mexico City boasts a world-class nightlife scene, with hot venues for downing tequila and dancing to music ranging from salsa to house. The Centro Histórico downtown has earned a reputation for having a number of hip and edgy bars and clubs concentrated within walking distance. The posh Polanco neighborhood is known for its perennially see-and-be-seen dining and bar scene, and in recent years many of the trendiest nightspots have opened in the Condesa and Roma neighborhoods. Some of the city's most exclusive nightclubs lie in the Lomas area. In the south of the city, San Angel remains highly popular, although it's a bit of a drive if you're not already staying in that area. Most bars don't even begin to get going until around 10 or 11pm and usually stay open until at least 3am; nightclubs get started after midnight and continue into the wee hours. Many clubs operate only Thursday through Saturday.
For lower-key nightlife and people-watching, outdoor cafes remain a popular option. Those in the neighborhoods of Polanco and Condesa are among the liveliest. Another tradition is Garibaldi Square, where mariachis tune up and wait to be hired, but be especially careful -- it's now known as much for chronic street crime as for music. The plaza was recently renovated, which will hopefully improve the safety of the neighborhood.
Hotel lobby bars tend to have live entertainment of the low-key type in the late afternoon and into the evening.
Some of the most exciting parties in the city are those sponsored by big-name labels like Nike and Absolut Vodka. These events often have themes, feature performances by well-known DJs, and are perfect if you want to check out the latest outrageous fashions. Check out websites such as www.trafficodf.com, www.diariodefiestas.blogspot.com, and www.thecitylovesyou.com for information about upcoming events.
The Performing Arts
Mexico City's performing arts scene is among the finest and most comprehensive in the world. It includes opera, theater, ballet, and dance, along with concerts of symphonic, rock, and popular music.
For current information on cultural offerings, Donde Ir, Tiempo Libre, and Concierge, free magazines found in hotels, are good sources for locating the newest places, though they don't have complete listings of changing entertainment or current exhibits. Ticketmaster (tel. 55/5325-9000) usually handles ticket sales for major performances.
Note: The majority of the theatrical performances at the Palacio de Bellas Artes and in other theaters around the city are presented in Spanish.
The Club & Music Scene
This warning can't be reiterated enough: Take an authorized sitio taxi or hire a car for transportation to all nightspots. Metro stops are given merely as a point of reference.
The double-decker Turibus (tel. 55/5133-2488; www.turibus.com.mx) now offers nighttime service on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday that runs a circuit through the necessary Mexico City party spots. Hop on and off from 9pm to 1am for 145 pesos.
Mariachis -- Mariachis often get a bad rap. In movies they're usually portrayed as bumbling nuisances who are masters of ruining romantic moments. So while you're in Mexico, take the opportunity to give them a second listen. Known for their distinctive dress, strolling presentation, and mix of brass and guitars, they epitomize the romance and tradition of the country. They look a little like Mexican cowboys dressed up for a special occasion -- tight trousers studded with silver buttons down the outside of the legs, elaborate cropped jackets, embroidered shirts with big bow ties, and grandiose sombrero hats. The dress dates from the French occupation of Mexico in the mid-19th century, as does the name. Mariachi is believed to be an adaptation of the French word for marriage; this was the type of music commonly played at weddings in the 15th and 16th centuries. The music is a derivative of fandango, which was the most popular dance music of the elite classes in 16th-century Spain. In Mexico, fandango became the peasant's song and dance. Among the most famous mariachi songs are "Mexico Lindo," "El Rey," "Guadalajara," "Cielito Lindo," and "La Cucaracha."
Pulque por Favor -- In a world of global convenience and instant everything, it's rare to find a food or beverage that can truly only be consumed in its native region. Most Mexican beers are imported in some form across the U.S., and heck, salsa is more popular than ketchup. This makes drinking pulque, or octli, a truly "Mexican" experience. The libation is made from the fermented heart of the native maguey plant and loses its unique milky foam after being transported long distances or being left out in the open.
Although public drunkenness was punishable by death in some instances during Aztec reign, pulque was popular with priests and older people, and during religious ceremonies. It was said that if you drank too much you would experience the "dance of 400 rabbits" in your head. Over time it became a drink enjoyed by the masses, until the late 1800s when Eastern Europeans popularized beer. Nowadays pulque is making a comeback, and pulquerias offer daily flavor varieties such as mango, peanut, celery, and honey. Las Dualistas, Aranda 28, Centro (tel. 55/1394-0958), is a classic pulqueria that has been around for more than 90 years. The giant Aztec-inspired murals look down upon a crowd of youngsters, artists, and businessmen on break from lunch in el Centro. When I was there, the men's room had no door, which only added extra charm. Pulqueria Los Insurgentes, Insurgentes 226 (tel. 55/4751-9326; www.lapulqueria.org), in front of Metrobus Durango in the heart of Roma, is a bit more hip. It occupies a Porfirio Diáz-era building. There's a jukebox and a mural of skeletons dancing that takes up an entire wall. They also offer a variety of dishes from around Mexico and host live music events.
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Dance Clubs
1 OAK
Here's where Mexico City’s beautiful people congregate. The third in the chain (there are 1 OAK clubs in New York and Las Vegas), the name stands for "1 Of A Kind." The club owners' goal to bring glamour back to nightlife translates into the club’s décor with gold and black floor…$$$Polanco
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Bars & Pubs
El Diente de Oro
This little Condesa bar (its name translates as the "Golden Tooth") is known for its top quality (and highly varied) single malt whiskeys and relaxed atmosphere. Its collection of more than 30 whiskeys include common Scottish, Irish, and U.S. brands and some hard-to-find labels…$$Condesa
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El Imperial
Considered the place for the well-dressed rocker, El Imperial is a club/bar/music venue. The décor is vintage with a large chandelier, velvet curtains, and lots of red and gold patterned walls. The club is divided into two, completely independent zones: bands and DJs play on the…$$Col. Roma Norte
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Nightlife
El Ocho Café Recreativo
El Ocho is like Mexico City’s version of Central Perk from "Friends." in the hip Condesa neighborhood, this place is part café, part bar, part restaurant, part playground. One of its main attractions is its decor, with different spaces to make you feel at home: a firepit located on…$$Col. Condesa
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Nightlife
Hookah Santa Fe
Walking into Hookah Santa Fe is like entering a luxurious riad, yet one in the middle of Mexico City, where drinking is not only legal but a duty ( the array of cocktails here is mind-boggling). The Santa Fe location is the latest addition to the Grupo Hookah chain, which also has…$$$Santa Fe
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Bars & Pubs
La Nacional
This cantina may appear to be dominated by its offerings of mezcal (and there are many), but look a bit closer and you’ll find a menu filled with Mexican craft beers and some rare spirits, such as Sotol and Bacanora. With tables outdoors on the "sidewalk terrace," it’s easy to escape…$$ -
Dance Clubs
Mama Rumba
Put your dancing shoes on, hit the floor, move with the rhythm of a heavy Afro-Latin beat, and don’t stop until the sun comes up and it's time to head out for breakfast. Though there are three Mama Rumba locations in Mexico City, the Roma spot is the most popular by far. Young,…$ -
Performing Arts Venue
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Opulent and dramatic, the Bellas Artes is the masterpiece of theaters in this architecturally rich city. The exterior is early-20th-century Art Nouveau, built during the Porfiriato and covered in Italian Carrara marble. Inside it's completely 1930s Art Deco. Since construction began… -
Bars & Pubs
The Black Horse
Founded with the idea of introducing funk, jazz, and British rock to the city, the Black Horse often features excellent live musicians. Co-owner Umair Kahn even jumps into the DJ booth when he wants to liven up the joint. In this pub-style bar, Tupac Shakur posters and Borat quotes… -
Nightlife
Zinco Jazz Club
This former Bank of Mexico turned jazz club is the place to go to enjoy a night of music with wonderfully talented local and international musicians. The audience is as eclectic as the music: bohemians, hipsters, "fresas" (the privileged young of Mexico City), intellectuals, jazz…$$Historic center
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