Getting There

By Plane

Mexico City's Benito Juárez International Airport (www.aicm.com.mx) is something of a small city, where you can grab a bite, have an espresso (including Starbucks), and buy duty-free goods, clothes, books, gifts, and insurance, as well as exchange money and stay in a hotel. It was recently expanded -- filled with marble floors, upscale shops, and improved services -- and overall has become a much more welcoming airport. (One Japanese traveler, Hiroshi Nohara, liked it so much that he lived in one of the terminals for 117 days in late 2008.) International flights depart from the newer Terminal 2 and from the international section of Terminal 1; domestic flights are accommodated by the rest of Terminal 1.

Guarded baggage-storage areas are near Sala D (Gate D; tel. 55/5786-9048) near doors 5 and 10. The key-operated metal lockers measure about .5*.5*.5m (1 1/2*1 1/2*1 1/2 ft.) and cost 100 pesos daily. You may leave your items for up to a month.

The Mexico City Hotel and Motel Association offers a hotel-reservation service for its member hotels. Look for its booths before you leave the baggage-claim area, or near Gate A on the concourse. Representatives make the call according to your specifications for location and price. If they book a hotel, they require 1 night's payment and will give you a voucher to present at the hotel. Ask about hotels with special deals. Telephones (operated by Telmex using prepaid Ladatel cards, available at newsstands and gift shops within the airport) are all along the public concourse.

When departing, be sure to allow at least 45 to 60 minutes' travel time from the Zona Rosa or the zócalo (plaza) area to the airport -- add about 30 minutes more if you're traveling during rush hour or bad weather. Check in 3 hours before international flights and 2 hours before domestic flights. Note: Mexican airlines will usually not let you check in for a domestic flight if it's less than an hour before departure time.

Getting to the City from the  Airport

Ignore those who approach you in the arrivals hall offering taxis; they are usually unlicensed and unauthorized. Authorized airport taxis, however, provide good, fast service. After exiting the baggage-claim area and before entering the public concourse (as well as near the far end of the terminal near Gate A), you'll see a booth marked TAXI. Staff members at these authorized taxi booths wear bright-yellow jackets or bibs emblazoned with TAXI AUTORIZADO (authorized taxi). Tell the ticket seller your hotel or destination; the price is based on a zone system. Expect to pay around 300 pesos for a boleto (ticket) to Polanco. Present your ticket outside to the driver. Taxi "assistants" who lift your luggage into the waiting taxi expect a tip for their trouble. Putting your luggage in the taxi is the driver's job.

The Metro, Mexico City's modern subway system, is cheap and faster than a taxi, but it seems to be gaining popularity among thieves who target tourists. If you take it from the airport, be forewarned: As a new arrival, you'll stand out. If you are carrying anything much larger than a briefcase, including a suitcase, don't even bother going to the station -- they won't let you on with it.

Here's how to find the Metro at the airport: As you come from your plane into the arrivals hall, turn left toward Gate A and walk through the long terminal, out the doors, and along a covered sidewalk. Soon you'll see the distinctive Metro logo that identifies the Terminal Aérea station, down a flight of stairs. The station is on Metro Línea 5 (Line 5). Follow the signs for trains to Pantitlán. At Pantitlán, change for Line 1 ("Observatorio"), which takes you to stations that are a few blocks south of the zócalo and La Alameda park: Pino Suárez, Isabel la Católica, Salto del Agua, and Balderas.

An Alternative to Benito Juárez

Toluca's Licenciado Adolfo López Mateos International Airport (TLC) lies just 52km (32 miles) southwest of Benito Juárez International Airport and has been a convenient alternative for Mexican nationals since it opened in 2002. In 2006 the airport started accommodating a limited amount of international traffic and now Continental (tel. 800/523-3273 in the U.S., or 01-800/900-5000 in Mexico), United (tel. 800/538-2929 in the U.S., 01-800/003-0777 in Mexico), and the Mexican airline Volaris (tel. 866/988-3527 in the U.S., or 01-800/122-8000 in Mexico) offer regular flights from the U.S. Volaris also offers a shuttle service that takes its customers to the Santa Fe financial district. Domestic flights to and from Toluca are often significantly cheaper than comparable flights through Benito Juárez.

To get to the Toluca airport by car from the Mexico City airport, merge onto Viaducto Miguel Alemán, take the exit to North Periférico, and merge onto Constituyentes. Then take the Mexico-Toluca highway. When you arrive in Toluca turn right on to Miguel Alemán Valdez and follow the signs to the airport. Depending on traffic, the drive could take up to 3 hours.

Taxi Safety Precautions in Mexico City 

There has been a marked increase in violent crime against both residents and tourists using taxis for transportation in Mexico City, concentrated among users of Volkswagen Beetle and libre (those hailed off the street) taxis. Robberies of taxi passengers are sometimes violent, with beatings and even murders reported. Victims have included U.S. citizens. Many times the robberies involve taking passengers to an ATM, where they are forced to withdraw whatever limit their card or cards will allow.

If you plan to use a taxi from the airport or bus stations, use only an authorized cab with all the familiar markings: yellow car, white taxi light on the roof, and TRANSPORTACION TERRESTRE painted on the doors. Buy your ticket from the clearly marked taxi booth inside the airport or bus terminal -- nowhere else. After purchasing your ticket, go outside to the line of taxis, where an official taxi chief will direct you to the next taxi in line. Don't follow anyone else.

In Mexico City, do not hail a passing taxi on the street. Most hotels have official taxi drivers who are recognized and regulated by the terminal and city; they are considered safe taxis to use. These are known as authorized or sitio taxis. Hotels and restaurants can call the radio-dispatched taxis. Official Radio Taxis (tel. 55/5590-3325 or 55/5698-5192) are also considered safe. You can hire one of these taxis from your hotel; the driver will frequently act as your personal driver and escort you through your travels in the city. This is a particularly advisable option at night.

All official taxis, except the expensive "turismo" cars, are painted predominantly yellow, orange, or green; have white plastic roof signs bearing the word TAXI; have TAXI or SITIO painted on the doors; and are equipped with meters. Look for all these indications, not just one or two of them. Even then, be cautious. The safest cars to use are sedan taxis (luxury cars without markings) dispatched from four- and five-star hotels. They are the most expensive but worth it -- taxi crime in Mexico City is very real.

Do not use VW Beetle taxis, which are frequently involved in robberies of tourists and are nearly phased out of existence. Even though they are the least expensive taxis, you could be taking your life into your hands should you opt to use one. In any case, never get in a taxi that does not display a large 5*7-inch laminated license card with a picture of the driver on it; it's usually hanging from the door chain or glove box, or stuck behind the sun visor. If there is no license, or if the photo doesn't match the driver, don't get in. It's illegal for a taxi to operate without the license in view. No matter what vehicle you use for transportation, lock the doors as soon as you get in. Do not carry credit cards, your passport, or large sums of cash, or wear expensive jewelry when taking taxis.

By Car

Driving in Mexico City is as much a challenge and an adventure as driving in any major metropolis. Here are a few tips. First, ask the rental company whether your license-plate number permits you to drive in the city that day (break the rule and the fine can be well over 10,000 pesos). Traffic runs the course of the usual rush hours -- to avoid getting tangled in traffic, plan to travel before dawn. Park the car in a guarded lot whenever possible.

The chief thoroughfares for getting out of the city are Insurgentes Sur, which becomes Hwy. 95 to Taxco and Cuernavaca; Insurgentes Norte, which leads to Teotihuacán and Pachuca; Hwy. 57, the Periférico (loop around the city), which is also known as Bulevar Manuel Avila Camacho, to denote street addresses, and goes north and leads out of the city to Tula and Querétaro; Constituyentes, which leads west out of the city past Chapultepec Park and connects with Hwy. 15 to Toluca, Morelia, and Pátzcuaro (Reforma also connects with Hwy. 15); and Zaragoza, which leads east to Hwy. 150 to Puebla and Veracruz.

By Bus

Mexico City has a bus terminal for each of the four points of the compass: north, east, south, and west. However, you can't necessarily tell which terminal serves which area of the country by looking at a map.

Some buses leave directly from the Benito Juárez airport. Departures are from a booth located outside Sala D (Gate D), and buses also park there. Tickets to Cuernavaca and Puebla each run about 200 pesos, with departures every 45 minutes. Other destinations include Querétaro, Pátzcuaro, and Toluca.

If you're in doubt about which station serves your destination, ask any taxi driver -- they know the stations and the routes they serve. All stations have restaurants, money-exchange booths or banks, post offices, luggage storage, and long-distance telephone booths where you can also send a fax.

Each station has a taxi system based on fixed-price tickets to various zones within the city, operated from a booth or kiosk in or near the entry foyer of the terminal. Locate your destination on a zone map or tell the seller where you want to go, and buy a boleto.

Terminal Central de Autobuses del Norte -- Called "Terminal Norte," or "Central Norte," Avenida de los Cien (100) Metros (tel. 55/5133-2444 or 55/5587-1552), this is Mexico's largest bus station. It handles most buses coming from the U.S.-Mexico border. It also handles service to and from the Pacific Coast as far south as Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo; the Gulf Coast as far south as Tampico and Veracruz; and such cities as Guadalajara, San Luis Potosí, Durango, Zacatecas, Morelia, and Colima. You can also get to the pyramids of Teotihuacán and Tula from here. By calling the above number, you can purchase tickets over the phone by charging them to a credit card. The operators can also provide exact information about prices and schedules, but few speak English.

To get downtown from the Terminal Norte, you have a choice: The Metro has a station (Terminal de Autobuses del Norte, or TAN) right here, so it's easy to hop a train and connect to all points. Walk to the center of the terminal, go out the front door and down the steps, and go to the Metro station. This is Línea 5 (Line 5). Follow the signs that say DIRECCION PANTITLAN. For downtown, you can change trains at La Raza or Consulado. Be aware that if you change at La Raza, you'll have to walk for 10 to 15 minutes and will encounter stairs. The walk is through a marble-lined underground corridor, but it's a long way with heavy luggage. If you have heavy luggage, you most likely won't be allowed into the Metro in the first place.

Another way to get downtown is by trolleybus. The stop is on Avenida de los Cien Metros, in front of the terminal. The trolleybus runs down Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, the Eje Central (Central Artery). Or try the Central Camionera Del Norte-Villa Olimpica buses, which go down Avenida Insurgentes, past the university. Just like the Metro, the trolley will not let you board if you are carrying anything larger than a small carry-on suitcase. Backpacks seem to be an exception, but not large ones with frames.

Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente -- This terminal is known as TAPO (tel. 55/5786-9341). Buses going east (Puebla, Amecameca, the Yucatán Peninsula, Veracruz, Xalapa, San Cristóbal de las Casas, and others) and Oaxaca buses, which pass through Puebla, arrive and depart from here.

To get to TAPO, take a Hipodromo-Pantitlán bus east along Alvarado, Hidalgo, or Donceles; if you take the Metro, go to the San Lázaro station on the eastern portion of Line 1 (DIRECCION PANTITLÁN).

Terminal Central de Autobuses del Sur (Taxqueña) -- Mexico City's southern bus terminal is at Av. Taxqueña 1320 (tel. 55/5689-4987), right next to the Taxqueña Metro stop, the last stop on Line 2. The Central del Sur handles buses to and from Acapulco, Cuernavaca, Guadalajara, Huatulco, Puebla, Puerto Escondido, Taxco, Tepoztlán, Zihuatanejo, and intermediate points. The easiest way to get to or from the Central del Sur is on the Metro. To get downtown from the Taxqueña Metro station, look for signs that say DIRECCION CUATRO CAMINOS, or take a trolley bus on Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas.

Terminal Poniente de Autobuses -- The western bus terminal is conveniently located right next to the Observatorio Metro station, at Sur 122 and Tacubaya (tel. 55/5271-4519). This is the smallest terminal; it mainly serves the route between Mexico City and Toluca. It also handles buses to and from Ixtapan de la Sal, Valle de Bravo, Morelia, Uruapan, Querétaro, Colima, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Acapulco, and Guadalajara. In general, if the Terminal Norte also serves your destination, you'd be better off going there. It has more buses and better bus lines.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Colonia Centro -- This business, banking, and historic center is the heart of Mexico City and includes the areas in and around La Alameda park and the zócalo, the capital's historic central square. The Spaniards built their new capital city on top of the destroyed capital of the conquered Aztec, and today it is home to more than 1,500 buildings. In the Centro Histórico -- the concentrated historical center within Colonia Centro -- you'll find the most historic landmarks, the most important public buildings, the partially unearthed Aztec ruins of the Great Temple, and numerous museums. The area has restaurants, shops, and hotels as well. In recent years, public improvements have spurred the development of a few new hotels here, as well as a surge in nightlife and dining options, with some exquisite bars and clubs located in historic buildings.

A $300-million face-lift was completed in 2003 in honor of the city's 675th anniversary. Mexican telecommunications magnate Carlos Slim Helú, who often, depending on the stock market, is considered the richest person in the world, has also put a lot of money into renovating the area. In addition to a beautification program for the zócalo, other elements of the program included the restoration and conversion of more than 80 18th- and 19th-century buildings.

A special corps of police on horseback outfitted in traditional charro attire (along with many female police on foot) now patrols the Centro Histórico and Alameda Park. Many speak English, and they have been specially trained in the history and culture of the area they patrol.

Chapultepec Park & Polanco -- The large residential area west of the city center and Zona Rosa centers on Chapultepec Park. The largest green area in Mexico City, it was dedicated as a park in the 15th century by the Aztec ruler Nezahualcóyotl. Together with the neighboring colonia of Polanco (north of the park), this is Mexico City's most exclusive address. With its zoo, many notable museums, antiques shops, stylish shopping, fine dining and nightlife, and upscale hotels, it's an ideal place for discovering contemporary Mexican culture. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is the main artery -- think of it as the Rodeo Drive or Champs-Elysées of Mexico City. Some of the city's best high-rise hotels are located along the aptly named Campos Eliseos, Polanco's version of the Champs-Elysées.

Condesa & Roma -- These side-by-side bohemian neighborhoods, located just south of the Zona Rosa, are home to some of the city's hippest cafes and bars, from cutting-edge restaurants to offbeat shops, art galleries, and nightclubs. The neighborhoods are also known for their parks and restored Art Deco buildings.

Coyoacán -- Eight kilometers (5 miles) from the city center, east of San Angel and north of the Ciudad Universitaria, Coyoacán (Koh-yoh-ah-kahn) is an attractive, Colonial-Era suburb noted for its beautiful town square, cobblestone streets, fine old mansions, and several of the city's most interesting museums. This was the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, and of Leon Trotsky after his exile from Stalin's USSR. With something of a hippie feel, it's a wonderful place to spend the day, but overnight accommodations are almost nonexistent. A fun hippie market takes place here on Sundays.

From downtown, Metro Line 3 can take you to the Coyoacán or Viveros station, within walking distance of Coyoacán's museums. Iztacala-Coyoacán buses run from the center to this suburb. If you're coming from San Angel, the quickest and easiest way is to take a cab for the 15-minute ride to the Plaza Hidalgo. Francisco Sosa, a beautiful cobblestone street surrounded by old aristocratic homes, is the main artery into Coyoacán from San Angel, which you can also walk. Or you can catch the Alcantarilla-Col. Agrarista bus heading east along the Camino al Desierto de los Leónes or Avenida Altavista, near the San Angel Inn. Get off when the bus reaches the corner of Avenida México and Xicoténcatl in Coyoacán.

San Angel -- Eight kilometers (5 miles) south of the city center, San Angel (Sahn Ahn-hehl) was once a weekend retreat for Spanish nobles but has long since been absorbed by the city. It's a stunningly beautiful neighborhood of cobblestone streets and Colonial-Era homes, with several worthwhile museums. This is where the renowned Bazar del Sábado (Saturday Bazaar) is held at Plaza San Jacinto. It's full of artistic and antique treasures and surrounded by excellent restaurants and cantinas -- a wonderful place to spend a day. Other attractions in San Angel include a magnificent baroque fountain made of broken pieces of porcelain at the Centro Cultural Isidro Fabela, better known as the Casa del Risco (Plaza San Jacinto 15), and the ethereal Iglesia San Jacinto, a 16th-century church with an exquisite baroque altar, bordering the Plaza San Jacinto.

The nearest Metro station is M.A. de Quevedo (Line 3). From the center of town, take the Metrobus all the way down Insurgentes and get off at the La Bombilla stop and cross to the west side of Insurgentes; continue straight, walking up Avenida La Paz. Cross Avenida Revolucion and walk up Madero to Plaza San Jacinto.

Santa Fe -- Eight kilometers (5 miles) west of the town center, this is Mexico City's newest and most modern neighborhood. It includes high-tech and multinational companies, banks, Iberro Americana University, and a large shopping complex. Santa Fe looks more like a modern American neighborhood than anywhere else in Mexico City. Many of the capital's well-off young professionals have moved to this area, which has developed a booming restaurant and nightlife scene. To reach Santa Fe, take Avenida Reforma west to the Toluca highway and follow the signs to Santa Fe.

Xochimilco -- Twenty-four kilometers (15 miles) south of the town center, Xochimilco (Soh-chee-meel-coh) is noted for its famed canals and Floating Gardens, which have existed here since the time of the Aztec. Although the best-known attractions are the more than 80km (50 miles) of canals, Xochimilco itself is a Colonial-Era gem: It seems small, with its brick streets, but the streets can become heavy with traffic -- it has a population of 300,000. Restaurants are at the edge of the canal and shopping district, and historically significant churches are within easy walking distance of the main square. In the town of Xochimilco, you'll find a busy market, specializing in rugs, ethnic clothing, and brightly decorated pottery.

Xochimilco hosts an amazing number of festivals -- more than 400 annually -- the most famous of which celebrate the Niñopa, a figure of the Christ Child that is believed to possess miraculous powers. The figure is venerated on January 6 (Three Kings' Day), February 2 (annual changing of the Niñopa's custodian), April 30 (Day of the Child), and from December 16 to December 24 (posadas for the Niñopa). Caring for the Niñopa is a coveted privilege, and the schedule of approved caretakers is filled through 2031. The week before Easter is the Feria de la Flor Más Bella del Ejido, a flower fair when the most beautiful girl with Indian features and costume is selected. For more information and exact dates, contact the Xochimilco Tourist Office (Subdirección de Turismo), Pino 36, Barrio San Juan (tel. 55/5676-8879; fax 55/5676-0810), next to Domino's Pizza, 2 blocks from the main square. It's open weekdays from 9am to 8pm, and weekends from 10am to 7pm.

To reach Xochimilco, take the Metro to Taxqueña, then the tren ligero (light train). From there, take a taxi to the main plaza of the town of Xochimilco. Buses run all the way across the city from north to south to end up at Xochimilco, but they take longer than the Metro. Of the buses coming from the center, the most convenient is La Villa-Xochimilco, which you catch going south on Correo Mayor and Pino Suárez near the zócalo, or near Chapultepec on Avenida Vasconcelos, Avenida Nuevo León, and Avenida Division del Norte. Because Xochimilco is located in the far south of the city, it can take a long time to reach in traffic during the workweek. Consider visiting it on the weekend.

Zona Rosa -- West of the Centro, the "Pink Zone" was once the city's most exclusive residential neighborhood. It has given way to just about every segment of society and offers an array of moderate hotels, antiques and silver shops, casual restaurants, gay bars, and kitsch nightlife venues. Although the Zona Rosa has become increasingly tacky with time, many of the streets here are pedestrian-only, and you will find inviting cafes, ice-cream shops, and shopping plazas along the way. It's a good place to shop or grab a bite, but there are few real historic or cultural attractions within the area. It's not safe to walk in this area at night.

Fast Facts

Banks -- Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm (some later); many offer Saturday business hours, typically from 8am to 3pm. Bank branches at the airport are open whenever the airport is busy, including weekends. They usually offer ATMs and decent rates of exchange. Banks and money-exchange offices line Avenida Reforma. The Centro Histórico downtown also has banks and money-exchange booths on almost every block, as does the Zona Rosa.

Currency Exchange -- The alternative to a bank is a currency-exchange booth, or casa de cambio. These often offer extended hours, with greater convenience to hotels and shopping areas, and rates similar to bank exchange rates. Usually, their rates are much better than those offered by most hotels. Use caution when exiting banks and currency exchanges, which are popular targets for muggings.

Drugstores -- The drug departments at Sanborn's stay open late. After hours, check with your hotel staff, which can usually contact a 24-hour drugstore.

Elevation -- Remember, you are now at an elevation of 2,239m (7,344 ft.) -- over a mile in the sky. There's a lot less oxygen in the air than you're used to. If you run for a bus and feel dizzy when you sit down, it's the elevation. If you think you're in shape but huff and puff getting up Chapultepec Hill, it's the elevation. If you have trouble sleeping, it may be the elevation. If your food isn't digesting, again, it's the elevation. Some people even find themselves getting inebriated more quickly than they would at lower elevations. There is not much you can do to help your body adjust -- it takes 3 days or so to adjust to the scarcity of oxygen. Go easy on food and alcohol your first few days in the city.

Embassies & Consulates -- Most countries have their embassy in Mexico City.

Emergencies -- The Mexico City government has an emergency number for visitors -- dial tel. 060 for assistance 24 hours a day; have a local or Spanish speaker help you. SECTUR (Secretaría de Turismo; tel. 078; www.sectur.gob.mx) staffs telephones 24 hours daily to help tourists in difficulty. In case of theft, you can contact Quejas de Turistas Contra Robos (tel. 55/5592-2677). A government-operated service, Locatel (tel. 55/5658-1111), is most often associated with finding missing persons anywhere in the country. With a good description of a car and its occupants, they'll search for motorists who have an emergency back home.

Hospitals -- The American-British Cowdray (ABC) Hospital is at Calle Sur 136, at the corner of Avenida Observatorio, Col. las Américas (tel. 55/5230-8000; www.abchospital.com).

Internet Access -- It is easier to find cybercafes in some resort areas than in Mexico City. However, most hotels that cater to business travelers offer Internet connections in their business centers. The Internet Café, Rep. de Guatemala 4, connected to the international youth hostel in the Centro Histórico (tel. 55/5618-1726), is open daily from 7:30am to 10pm. The price per hour of access is 12 pesos. Many cafes offer free Wi-Fi for customers; just ask for the code and order at least a cup of coffee.

Pollution -- The rainy season, usually lasting from May to October, has less pollution than the dry season. Mid- to late November, December, and January are noted for heavy pollution. During January, schools may even close because of it, and restrictions on driving that are usually imposed only on weekdays may apply on weekends; be sure to check before driving into or around the city. Be careful if you have respiratory problems. Just before your visit, call the Mexican Government Tourist Board office nearest you and ask for the latest information on pollution in the capital. Minimize your exposure to fumes by refraining from walking busy streets during rush hour. Make Sunday, when many factories are closed and many cars escape the city, your prime outdoor sightseeing day.

Post Office -- The city's main post office, the gorgeous Correo Mayor, is a block north of the Palacio de Bellas Artes on Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, at the corner of Tacuba. For general postal information, call FonoPost (tel. 55/5385-0960); the staff is very helpful, and a few operators speak English.

If you need to mail a package in Mexico City, take it to the post office called Correos Internacional 2, Calle Dr. Andrade and Río de la Loza (Metro: Balderas or Salto del Agua). It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon. Don't wrap your package securely until an inspector examines it. Although postal service is improving, your package may take weeks, or even months, to arrive at its destination.

Restrooms -- There are few public restrooms. Use those in the larger hotels and in cafes, restaurants, and museums. You might want to carry your own toilet paper and hand soap depending on what neighborhood you're in. Many public restrooms at museums and parks have an attendant who dispenses toilet paper for a "tip" of 5 pesos, in lieu of a usage charge.

Safety -- In response to rising crime, Mexico City has added hundreds of new foot and mounted police officers, and there's a strong military presence. But they can't be everywhere. Watch out for pickpockets. Crowded subway cars and buses provide the perfect workplace for petty thieves, as do major museums (inside and out), crowded outdoor markets and bullfights, and indoor theaters. The "touch" can range from light-fingered wallet lifting or purse opening to a fairly rough shove by two or three petty thieves. Be extra careful anywhere that attracts a lot of tourists: on the Metro, in Reforma buses, in crowded hotel elevators and lobbies, at the Ballet Folklórico, and at the Museo Nacional de Antropología.

Robberies may occur in broad daylight on crowded streets in "good" parts of town, outside major tourist sights, and in front of posh hotels. The best way to avoid being mugged is to not wear any jewelry of value, especially expensive watches. If you find yourself up against a handful of these guys, the best thing to do is relinquish the demanded possession, flee, and then notify police. (You'll need the police report to file an insurance claim.) If you're in a crowded place, you could try raising a fuss -- whether you do it in Spanish or English doesn't matter. A few shouts of "¡Ladrón!" ("Thief!") might put them off, but that could also be risky. Overall, it's wise to leave valuables in the hotel safe and to take only the cash you'll need for the day, and no credit cards. Conceal a camera in a shoulder bag draped across your body and hanging in front of you, not on the side.

If you think you've been ripped off on a purchase, call the consumer protection office (Procuraduría Federal del Consumidor; tel. 01-800/468-8722 or 55/5625-8722; www.profeco.gob.mx).

Telephones -- Telephone numbers within Mexico City are eight digits; the first digit of the local phone number is always 5. Generally speaking, Mexico City's telephone system is rapidly improving (with new digital lines replacing old ones), offering clear, efficient service. Some of this improvement is resulting in numbers changing. As elsewhere in the country, the telephone company changes numbers without informing the telephone owners or the information operators. Business telephone numbers may be registered in the name of the corporation, which may be different than the name of a hotel or restaurant owned by the corporation. Unless the corporation pays for a separate listing, the operator uses the corporate name to find the number. The local number for information is tel. 040, and you are allowed to request three numbers with each information call. When dialing a mobile from within the country, dial 044 before the 55.

Coin-operated phones are prone to vandalism; prepaid Ladatel card-only Telmex phones have replaced most of them. Ladatel cards are usually available at pharmacies and newsstands near public phones. They come in denominations of 30, 50, and 100 pesos.

Weather & Clothing -- Mexico City's high altitude means you'll need a warm jacket and sweater in winter and even on some chilly summer nights. The southern parts of the city, such as the university area and Xochimilco, are much colder than the central part. In summer, it gets warm during the day and cool (but not cold) at night. From May to October is the rainy season (this is common all over Mexico) -- take a raincoat or rain poncho. People tend to dress somewhat conservatively in Mexico City; neither shorts nor short skirts are common.

Visitor Information

The Federal District Department provides several information services for visitors. The Centro Integral de Atención al Turista (CIAT; tel. 860/640-0597 in the U.S., or 01-800/006-8839, or simply 078, toll-free inside Mexico) offers information in English and Spanish, including maps, a wide selection of brochures, and access to information from the Mexico Secretary of Tourism (SECTUR) website. The office sits in Polanco at Av. President Masaryk 172 (tel. 55/3002-6300), at the corner of Hegel. It's open Monday to Friday from 9am to 3pm and Saturday from 9am to 2pm.

SECTUR, Mexico's Secretary of Tourism, developed a website to address safety concerns about travel to this city and other areas in Mexico. SECTUR's website www.sectur.gob.mx offers perhaps not-so-objective assessments of destinations, as well as travel safety tips and help with lodging reservations throughout Mexico.

Branches of the Mexico City Tourist Office are in the Zona Rosa at Paseo de la Reforma and Florencia (across from the Angel de la Independencia; tel. 55/5208-1030), at the TAPO bus terminal (tel. 55/5784-3077), and at the airport (tel. 55/5786-9002). They're generally open daily from 9am to 6pm. The Mexico City Secretary of Tourism website (www.mexicocity.gob.mx) includes details on things to do, special events, safety precautions, and tourist services.

The Mexico City Chamber of Commerce (tel. 55/5592-2665) maintains an information office with a very helpful staff that can sell you detailed maps of the city or country and answer questions. It's conveniently located at Reforma 42 -- look for the Cámara Nacional de Comercio de la Ciudad de México. It's open Monday through Thursday from 9am to 2pm and 3 to 6pm, Friday from 9am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm.

Day and night diversions are listed in the Spanish-language magazine Tiempo Libre, which is published each Thursday and is available at hotels and newsstands. It also has a website, www.tiempolibre.com.mx. Excellent English-language sources of visitor information are the Mexico File (www.mexicofile.com) and Solutions Abroad (www.solutionsabroad.com). Current-event information and visitor tips are offered on the excellent site www.mexicocity.gob.mx.

Getting Around

Mexico City has a highly developed and remarkably cheap public transportation system. It is a shame that the sharp increase in crime and resulting safety concerns have made these less comfortable options for travelers. The Metro, first- and second-class buses, colectivos, and Nissan Tsuru libre taxis will take you anywhere you want to go for very little money -- but visitor warnings about the use of public transportation should be respected. Because sitio taxis (official taxis registered to a specific locale or hotel) are relatively inexpensive and the safest way to travel within the city, you are best off using them.

By Taxi 

Taxis operate under several distinct sets of rules.

"Turismo" and Sitio Taxis -- These are by far the safest way to travel within Mexico City. Turismo taxis are unmarked cabs, usually well-kept luxury cars assigned to specific hotels that have special license plates. Although more expensive than the VW Beetle and libre taxis (usually Nissan Tsurus), "turismo" taxis, along with radio-dispatched sitio taxis, are the safest ones to use. The drivers negotiate rates with individual passengers for sightseeing, but rates to and from the airport are established. Ask the bell captain what the airport fare should be, and establish it before taking off. These drivers are often licensed English-speaking guides and can provide exceptional service. In general, expect to pay around 250 pesos per hour for guided service, and about 15% more than metered rates for normal transportation. Often these drivers will wait for you while you shop or dine to take you back to the hotel, or they can be called to come back and pick you up.

Metered Taxis -- Most of the classic green VW Beetle cabs have been phased out but their red counterparts as well as libre cabs provide low-cost service, but for safety reasons, you should not use them. Some sitio taxis (radio taxis, which are safe; tel. 55/5590-3325 or 55/5698-5192) use meters, while others have set rates. I have used Intertaxi (tel. 55/2603-3268). They have a fleet of regular cars that don't appear to be taxis from the outside. This is especially safe if you're traveling late at night, when thieves may see taxis as easy targets. Although you may encounter a gouging driver or one who advances the meter or drives farther than necessary to run up the tab, most service is quick and adequate.

By Metro

The subway system in Mexico City offers a smooth ride for one of the lowest fares anywhere in the world (5 pesos). Twelve lines crisscross the sprawling city. Each train usually has nine cars. The Metro is open Monday to Friday 5am to midnight, Saturday 6am to midnight, and Sunday 7am to midnight.

As you enter the station, buy a boleto (ticket) at the glass taquilla (ticket booth). Insert your ticket into the slot at the turnstile and pass through; inside you'll see two large signs showing the line's destination (for example, for Line 1, it's Observatorio and Pantitlán). Follow the signs in the direction you want and know where you're going; there is usually only one map of the routes, at the entrance to the station. You'll see two signs everywhere: SALIDA (exit) and ANDENES (platforms). On the train, above each door is a map of the station stops for that line, with symbols and names.

CORRESPONDENCIAS indicates transfer points. The ride is smooth, fast, and efficient (although hot and crowded during rush hours). The beautifully designed stations are clean and have the added attraction of displaying archaeological ruins unearthed during construction. A subterranean passage goes between the Pino Suárez and Zócalo stations, so you can avoid the crowds along Pino Suárez.

The Metro is crowded during the day on weekdays and, consequently, pretty hot and muggy in summer. In fact, you may find it virtually unusable downtown between 4 and 7pm on weekdays, because of sardine-can conditions. At some stations, there are even separate lanes roped off for women and children; the press of the crowd is so great that someone might get molested. Buses, colectivos, and taxis are all heavily used during these hours, less so during off hours (such as 10:30am-noon). Avoid the crowds by traveling during off-peak hours, or simply wait a few minutes for the next train.

Be prepared to do some walking within the Metro system, especially if you transfer lines. Stations are connected by elevated walkways, corridors with shops or museumlike displays, and escalators.

The Subway Skinny -- The Metro system runs Monday to Friday from 5am to midnight, Saturday from 6am to midnight, and Sunday and holidays from 7am to midnight. Baggage larger than a small carry-on is not allowed on the trains. In practice, this means that bulky suitcases or backpacks will make you persona non grata. On an average day, Mexico City's Metro handles more than five million riders -- leaving little room for bags! But in effect, if no one stops you as you enter, you're in.

Watch your bags and your pockets. Metro pickpockets prey on the unwary (especially foreigners) and are very crafty -- on a crowded train, they've been known to empty a fanny pack from the front. Be careful, and carry valuables inside your clothing. Women should avoid traveling alone.

By Bus

Moving millions of people through this sprawling urban mass is a gargantuan task, but the city officials do a pretty good job of it. Bus stops on the major tourist streets usually have a map posted with the full route description.

Crowding is common during peak hours. The cost is 6 pesos. Although the driver usually has change, try to have exact fare or at least a few coins when you board.

One of the most important bus routes runs between the zócalo and the Auditorio (National Auditorium in Chapultepec Park) or the Observatorio Metro station. The route is Avenida Madero or Cinco de Mayo, Avenida Juárez, and Paseo de la Reforma.

The latest member of the Mexico City transportation family, the Metrobus was first introduced in 2006. These buses run in their own designated lanes up and down Avenida Insurgentes and often travel much faster than surrounding traffic. Most of the stops are designed to be convenient for commuters, but you can use it to access Plaza Tres Culturas from the Tlateloco stop, and the luxurious Reforma 222 shopping plaza near the Hamburgo stop; if you get off at Campeche, you'll be just a short walk from Condesa. To board these buses, purchase a smartcard for 15 pesos, which can be recharged for 5 pesos per trip. These buses are generally cleaner and faster than other forms of transportation but can get just as crowded during peak hours.

Women-Only Buses & Train Cars -- In January 2008, Mexico City designated a number of city buses for women only, distinguished by conspicuous pink placards. The popular program was designed to prevent men from groping female passengers -- a fairly common problem in the capital's crowded public transportation system. Bus drivers are charged with keeping men off of these buses, and their female passengers are delighted. During peak hours, Mexico City's subway system also designates the first three cars for women and children.

By Collectivo

Also called peseros or microbuses, these are sedans or minibuses, usually green and gray, that run along major arteries. They pick up and discharge passengers along the route, charge established fares, and provide slightly more comfort and speed than the bus. Cards in the windshield display routes; often a Metro station is the destination. One of the most useful routes for tourists runs from the zócalo along Avenida Juárez, along Reforma to Chapultepec, and back again. Board a colectivo with a sign saying ZÓCALO, not VILLA. (The Villa route goes to the Basílica de Guadalupe.) Some of the minibuses on this route have automatic sliding doors -- you don't have to shut them.

As the driver approaches a stop, he may put his hand out the window and hold up one or more fingers. This is the number of passengers he's willing to take on (vacant seats are difficult to see if you're outside the car).

By Tourist Bus

A convenient and popular way to see the city is on one of the red double-decker Turibuses (tel. 55/5133-2488; www.turibus.com.mx), which offer separate circuits in the north and south of the city. Each of the double-decker buses seats 75 and offers audio information in five languages, plus street maps. The buses operate from 9am to 9pm, with unlimited hop-on, hop-off privileges after paying 140 pesos for a day pass (165 pesos weekends). The Chapultepec-Centro Histórico route has 25 stops at major monuments, museums, and neighborhoods along the 35km (22-mile) route, which runs from the National Auditorium to the city center (including the zócalo) and from there to La Plaza de las Tres Culturas (Square of the Three Cultures), returning via Avenida Reforma toward the posh neighborhood of Polanco and finally to Museo del Niño (Children's Museum). The full circuit takes a little under 3 hours. Another Turibus circuit runs in the city south, taking passengers from La Roma neighborhood south along Avenida Insurgentes to San Angel, Coyoacán, and Tlalpan. Stops include the World Trade Center, Plaza de Torros bullring, Carillo Gil museum, Perisur shopping center, UNAM, and the Frida Kahlo museum, among others. Turibus also offers a route to the pyramids at Teotihuacán.

By Rental Car

If you plan to travel to Puebla or a surrounding area, a rental car might come in handy. However, due to high rates of auto theft, I don't recommend renting a car. Taxis and the Metro also eliminate the risk of getting lost in an unsavory area.

If you must rent, be aware that that the least-expensive rental car is a manual-shift without air-conditioning. The price jump is considerable for automatics with air-conditioning. The safest option is to leave the driving to someone else -- Avis offers chauffeur-driven rental cars at its nine locations in the Mexican capital. The chauffeur is on an 8-hour shift, but the car is available to the customer for 24 hours. For prices and reservations, call Avis (tel. 800/352-7900 in the U.S., or 01-800/288-8888 in Mexico).

Parking

Finding an Address

Despite its size, Mexico City is not hard to get a feel for. The city is divided into 350 colonias, or neighborhoods. Taxi drivers are sometimes not aware of the major tourist sights and popular restaurants. Before getting into a taxi, always give a street address, colonia, and cross streets as a reference, and show the driver your destination on a map that you carry with you. Some of the most important colonias are Colonia Centro (historic city center); Zona Rosa (Colonia Juárez); Polanco (Colonia Polanco), a fashionable neighborhood immediately north of Chapultepec Park; colonias Condesa and Roma, south of the Zona Rosa, where there are many restaurants in quiet neighborhoods; all the Lomas -- including Lomas de Chapultepec and Lomas Tecamachalco -- which are exclusive neighborhoods west of Chapultepec Park; and San Angel and Coyoacán, the artsy neighborhoods toward the south of Mexico City. In addresses, the word is abbreviated Col., and the full colonia name is vital in addressing correspondence.

Street Maps

The CIAT office generally has several free maps available. Bookstores carry several local map/guides, with greater detail. The best detailed map is the Guía Roji (www.guiaroji.com.mx), available at bookstores in Mexico City. It features all the streets in Mexico City and is updated annually. If you're traveling with a smart phone, you can also use an app designed for Mexico City travel. Metrodroid DF is great for Android phones and BusMex and Metromex work on the iPhone.