Parking

Nineteenth-century photographs of Bangkok portray the busy life on the Chao Phraya River, where a ragtag range of vessels -- from humble rowboats to sailing ships -- crowded the busy port. This was the original gateway for early foreign visitors who traveled upriver from the Gulf of Siam. Rama I, upon moving the capital city from Thonburi on the west bank to Bangkok on the east, dug a series of canals fanning out from the S-shaped river. For strategic reasons, the canals replicated the moat system used at Ayutthaya, Siam's previous capital, in the hopes of protecting the city from invasion. The city waterways represented the primordial oceans that surrounded the Buddhist heavens. A small artificial island was cut into the land along the riverbank and became the site for the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha), and Wat Po. To this day, this quarter is referred to as Ko (island) Rattanakosin. This is the historical center of the city and the main tourist destination for day trips.

The canals, or klongs, continued eastward from Rattanakosin as the city's population grew. Chinese and Indian merchants formed settlements alongside the river to the southeast of the island. The mercantile district of Yaowarat (Chinatown) is a maze of busy back alleys. Its main thoroughfare, Charoen Krung Road (sometimes called by its former name, New Rd.), snakes southward, following the shape of the river. On the eastern edge of Chinatown, you'll find the arched Hua Lamphong railway station, a marvelous example of fanciful, fin de siècle Italian engineering.

Just beyond Yaowarat, along the river, lies Bangrak district, where foreign interests built European-style residences, trading houses, churches, and a crumbling colonial Customs House. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the Grande Dame of Bangkok, sits among them, one of the few great heritage properties left in town. Bangrak's main thoroughfares, Surawong Road, Silom Road, and Sathorn Road, originate at Charoen Krung, running parallel to Rama IV Road. Within Bangrak, you'll find many embassies, hotels and high-rises, restaurants, and pubs, as well as the sleazy nightlife at Patpong or glitzy gay clubs in Silom Soi 4.

Back to Rattanakosin, as you head upriver, you'll hit Banglampoo, home to Bangkok's National Museum, Wat Suthat, the Giant Swing, and Klong Phu Khao Thong (Golden Mount). Its central point is Democracy Monument, a roundabout where the wide Ratchadamnoen Klong Road intersects Dinso Road. Around the corner is Khao San Road, which was once solely a backpacker hangout. It still has budget accommodations, inexpensive restaurants, lots of tour agents, and good nightlife, and it's hanging onto its 1970s hippy flavor -- but is also heading into the mainstream. Starbucks, Burger King, and Boots are all muscling in on the once funk-filled, alternative vibe here.

Farther north of Banglampoo is leafy Dusit, home to Wat Benchamabophit, Vimanmek Palace, the Dusit Zoo, and parks.

As Bangkok spread on the east shore of the river, Thonburi, the former site of the capital across the river, remained in relative isolation. While Bangkok was quick to fill in canals, ushering in the age of the automobile, residential Thonburi's canals remained, and a longtail boat ride through the area is a high point of any trip here. Thai riverside homes, both traditional and new, and neighborhood businesses (some housed in floating barges) reveal glimpses of life as it might have been 200 years ago. Access to Thonburi's Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal is via the Phra Pinklao Bridge from Banglampoo.

Back on the other side of the river, Bangkok grew and fanned eastward. From Ko Rattanakosin, beyond Bangrak, lies Pathumwan, known for its huge market. This is where the famous American journalist and silk connoisseur Jim Thompson once lived. His stunning Thai-style house is now open to visitors. Nearby is busy Siam Square, with its myriad boutiques and huge shopping malls. This area's hotels, cafes, and nightclubs attract scores of local teenagers and students. Beyond Pathumwan, Wireless (Witthayu) Road runs north to south, between Rama IV Road (at the edge of Bangrak) and Rama I Road (at the edge of Pathumwan). Here, the huge U.S. Embassy complex stands just meters from a clutch of five-star hotels and chic shopping centers such as All Seasons Place and Central Chidlom.

From Siam Square, Sukhumvit Road extends due east, its length traced by the BTS. Many expatriates live along the small side streets, or sois, that branch out from Sukhumvit. This area is lined with tourist restaurants and entertainment spots, shops, and big malls -- you'll find luxury hotels alongside inexpensive accommodations, fine dining, and cheap local eats, as well as clothing stores and streetside bazaars. (Be aware that there are also lots of schemers in this area.) Easterly situated Sukhumvit is mostly a major commercial center and much of it is connected by the overhead BTS. Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal is at Ekkamai BTS, on Sukhumvit Soi 63.

Finding an Address -- Note that even-numbered addresses are on one side of the street and odd-numbered ones the opposite, but they are not always close to each other. So 123 and 124 Silom Rd. will be on opposite sides of the street, but possibly 300m (nearly 1,000 ft.) or even farther apart. Most addresses are subdivided by a slash, as in 123/4 Silom Rd., which indicates that a particular plot has been subdivided into several sections. Some addresses also include a dash, which means that the building itself occupies several plots. You'll find the term thanon frequently in addresses; it means "street" in Thai. Soi is a lane off a major street and is either numbered or named. If you are looking for "45 Sukhumvit Soi 23," it means plot 45, on Soi 23, off Sukhumvit Road. On Sukhumvit Road, even-numbered sois will be on the south side and odd-numbered sois on the north side.

Fast Facts

ATMs -- ATMs are everywhere in Bangkok and those associated with Thai banks will take Visa, MasterCard, and other international cards. 

Banks -- Many international banks also maintain offices in Bangkok, including Bank of America, 87/2 CRC Tower, Wireless  Road. ([tel] 02305-2800); JP Morgan Chase, 20 Sathorn Nua Road (tel. 02684-2000); Citibank, 82 Sathorn Road. (tel. 02232-2000). However, even if your bank has a branch in Thailand, your home account is considered foreign here and conducting personal banking will require special arrangements before leaving home.

Business Hours -- Government offices (including branch post offices) are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm, with a lunch break between noon and 1pm. Businesses are generally open 8am to 5pm. Small shops often stay open from 8am until 7pm or later, 7 days a week. Department stores are generally open 10:30am to 9pm.

Currency Exchange -- Most banks will exchange foreign currency (at some banks you may need proof of ID) Monday to Friday 8:30am to 3:30pm. Exchange booths affiliated with the major banks are found in all tourist areas, open daily from 10am to 7pm.

Dentists -- Major hospitals offer dental services and there are clinics dotted around Sukhumvit and Silom roads in surprising frequency. Expat-centric Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) has several top operations, especially the upmarket Thonglor Dental Hospital (www.thonglordentalhospital.com; tel. 02382-0044). Pricing is commonly posted outside the building and major work, like a root canal, is much more affordable than in Western counties. In recent years, medical and dental tourism has been on the rise in Thailand. 

Embassies & Consulates -- Your embassy in Thailand can (to an extent) assist you with medical and legal matters. Contact them immediately if there is a medical emergency or imminent death, if you've lost your travel documents, or if you need urgent legal advice. The following is a list of major foreign representatives in Bangkok: Australian Embassy, 37 S. Sathorn Rd. (tel. 02344-6300); British Embassy, 1031 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd. (tel. 02305-8333); Canadian Embassy, 15th Floor, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama IV Rd. (tel. 02636-0540); New Zealand Embassy, 14th Floor, M Thai Tower, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd. (tel. 02254-2530); and the Embassy of the United States of America, 120-22 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd. (tel. 02205-4000). Listen carefully to the phone prompts for after-hours help lines.

Emergencies -- In any emergency, first call Bangkok's Tourist Police, who can be reached at a direct-dial four-digit number, tel. 1155, or at 02678-6800. Someone at both numbers will speak English. In case of fire, call tel. 199 or 191, both of which are direct-dial numbers. Ambulance service is handled by individual, private hospitals. For operator-assisted overseas calls, dial tel. 100.

Hospitals -- All hospitals listed here offer 24-hour emergency service. Be advised that you may need your passport and a deposit of up to 20,000B before you are admitted. Make sure you have adequate travel insurance before you leave home. Major credit cards are accepted. Bumrungrad Hospital, 33 Soi 3, Sukhumvit Rd. (tel. 02667-1000; www.bumrungrad.com), has respected -- but costly -- health practitioners and is the destination of choice in Bangkok for cosmetic surgery and (comparatively) affordable procedures. BNH Hospital (Bangkok Nursing Home), at 9 Convent Rd., between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel. 02686-2700; www.bnhhospital.com), is extremely central; Samitivej Hospital, at 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (www.samitivejhospitals.com; tel. 02711-8000), is recommended for dentistry for young children, and for its maternity and infant wards.

Internet & Wi-Fi --Cafes such as Starbucks offering free Wi-Fi are everywhere, especially along Sukhumvit and Khao San roads. Internet cafes are a dying breed but are common in backpacker-specific areas like near Khao San Road. Almost all hotels in Bangkok have free Wi-Fi.

Lost Property -- If you have lost anything or have had your valuables stolen, call the national police hot line at tel. 1155. If you lose something in a taxi, try to recall the color of the cab, the time and place where you picked it up, and the time and place it dropped you off. Even better, remember the cab registration number. Most hotel front desk staff will know which cab company to call to report the loss and make an appeal based on those details. You will need to make a police report at the closest station to the place of loss.

Luggage Storage -- Suvarnabhumi International Airport offers luggage storage for 100B a day, 24 hours a day, on both the Arrivals and Departures level. Most hotels will allow you to store luggage while away on short trips.

Pharmacies -- Bangkok has many local pharmacies. Drugs dispensed here differ widely in quality and authenticity; if in doubt, visit a doctor and get prescribed drugs at a hospital or pick them up at an international store such as Watson's or Boots. Pharmacies are generally open from 9am to 6pm.

Police -- Call the Tourist Police at tel. 1155 or 02678-6800, open 24 hours, for assistance. English is spoken.

Post Office -- The main General Post Office (GPO) is a huge post and telegraph office on Charoen Krung Road (tel. 02236-3066), opposite Soi 45. It's open Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm, and weekends 8am to 1pm.

Safety -- In general, Bangkok is a relatively safe city, but be aware, at night, of drug-spiked drinks and, in daytime -- especially on transport -- of pickpockets. Do not incite trouble; avoid public disagreements and hostility (especially with locals), and steer clear of gambling-related activities. If traveling alone at night, be alert, as you would in any city, and rely on your gut instincts; if you get a bad feeling about a place or situation, remove yourself from the scene. A Thai temper is virtually unheard of, but on rare occasions, it erupts, seemingly out of nowhere, and makes for (potentially lethal) confrontations.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Unlike other cities, Bangkok’s neighborhoods are hard to define, and they blur together in the maze of chaotic sois (side streets). Generally, when giving directions to a taxi driver, you’ll want to tell the closest intersection or the name of the nearest BTS or MRT station near your destination. This will be much more successful than spouting off a name of a neighborhood.

Riverside & Thonburi  Bangkok's grandest riverside hotels are all clustered near Saphan Taksin. You'll find wholesale silver, jewelry, and antiques stores along Charoen Krung (New) Road and Soi Oriental. Farther upstream, colonial buildings and churches give these old run-down districts a certain charm. Across the river in Thonburi, you can discover Thai dance shows and theater, as well as low-cost riverside diners and luxury spas.

Yaowarat or Chinatown Also along the riverside and just west of the Grand Palace area and Banglampoo, Chinatown is a frenetic maze of stores, old trading warehouses, and great places to eat. It is an atmospheric home to indie nightlife and the best street food in the city.

Banglampoo & Historic Bangkok Home to the Grand Palace, this area lies within the area known as Ko Rattanakosin. It contains the city's most important historical sites, including the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, and Wat Po, as well as the Dusit Zoo and Vimanmek Palace Museum. Within the area are numerous historic wats (temples), the National Museum, and the National Theater and Library. Khao San Road is the city's former backpacker district, and moderate accommodations are located among the many budget guesthouses. The only drawback here is that it's a real trek to get to the BTS or MRT.

Bangrak This area likes to think of itself as the Central Business District, though its "downtown" label is debatable. It is bound by Rama IV Road on the north, Yaowarat (Chinatown) on the northwest, and Charoen Krung (New) Road due west, while Silom and Surawong roads run through its center. Many banks, businesses, and embassies have offices in this area, but it is also a good choice for travelers, with malls -- such as the Silom Complex -- reasonably priced restaurants, tourist hotels, and the seamier Patpong red-light area.

Sukhumvit Road, Ploenchit Road & Chit Lom Known as Rama I Road at its western end, this main east-west thoroughfare is straddled overhead by the BTS. After crossing Ratchadamri Road (at the Erawan Shrine), it then becomes Ploenchit Road and runs directly east, crossing Witthayu (Wireless) Road at Chit Lom BTS (for CentralWorld department store), until it finally becomes Sukhumvit Road at the mouth of the airport freeway. Hotels, shopping complexes, office buildings, and some smaller embassies serve a thriving expat community here. Though rather far from the historic sites, it's convenient for shopping and nightlife.

Siam, Ratchathewi & Phloenchit  Sukhumvit Road, better known as Rama I Road at its western end, this main east–west thoroughfare is straddled overhead by the BTS. After crossing Ratchadamri Road (at the Erawan Shrine), it then becomes Ploenchit Road and runs directly east, crossing Wireless (Witthayu) Road at Chit Lom BTS (near the CentralWorld department store). It finally becomes Sukhumvit Road at the mouth of the airport freeway. Hotels, shopping complexes, office buildings, and some smaller embassies serve a thriving expat community here. Though rather far from the historic sites, it’s a convenient and fun spot for those interested in shopping and nightlife.

Lower Sukhumvit: Nana to Ekkamai At the BTS stop by the same name, the neighborhood of Nana is home to some pretty naughty nightlife and outstanding Arab food. Follow the BTS to reach Asok, where Terminal 21 is a funky mall with a cool market vibe. Below the Asok BTS is a chaotic intersection with lanes of cars, buses, and motorbikes converging into a state of organized chaos. The next two stops are Phrom Phong and Thonglor; both are upscale neighborhoods with large Japanese and Western expats populations.  The bar scene is outstanding here, and mixologists shake, stir, and pour strong cocktails in these parts.  Reach Ekkamai,  which is as far out most tourists will ever find themselves, for a laid-back neighborhood vibe, perky cafes, and a few notable art galleries.

Getting Around

Bangkok’s notoriously awful traffic can make even a local monk go a bit crazy, and you’ve likely heard horror stories of the legendary gridlock. But don’t let that slow your roll. There are varied ways of getting around the city, including  an air-conditioned subway, crazy-cheap taxis, buzzy canal boats, and even motorcycle taxis. Have some patience, remember to pace yourself, and, like the Thais around you, keep a smile on your face. Access to the town’s modern and effective public transport is often a key factor in visitors’ choice of accommodation.

By BTS -- The Bangkok Transit System (BTS) is called "rot fai fa" by Thais, which translates as "skytrain" -- an apt description. It opened in 1999 and is the best way for the able-bodied to get around Bangkok. Sadly, its lack of elevators makes it unsuitable for the physically challenged or those who can't cope with lots of stairs. The train system provides good access to Bangkok's commercial centers. The Silom Line runs from Wongwian Yai in Thonburi across the Chao Phraya River at Saphan Taksin (Taksin Bridge), then through the Silom area to Siam Square. The interchange point for the Sukhumvit Line is at Siam BTS, from where the Sukhumvit Line goes north to Chatuchak Weekend Market (at Mo Chit BTS), or east, along the length of Sukhumvit road to On Nut BTS.

Single-journey tickets cost from 16B to 44B. For single trips, it's fairly straightforward to buy tickets at the vending machines that have place names spelled phonetically in English; you can get small change at the information booth as needed. All ticket types let you through the turnstile and are required for exit, so be sure to hang on to them. Grab a one-day pass for 140B which is a time-saver and ideal if you plan to take five or more one-way journeys. Purchase a pass at any BTS ticket booth. The plastic SmartPass, known as a Rabbit Card, can be topped up as you go but this is only useful for travelers staying in Bangkok for a week or more who plan to ride the train multiple times per day. There is a 30B non-refundable fee for the card; buy it at any ticket booth. Hours of operation are daily between 5:15am and midnight. For route details, maps, and further ticket info, check www.bts.co.th.

Children ride for free. But confusingly, a child ticket is defined by the height of the child (90cm or 2-ft 9-in) instead of their age.

By Subway -- Bangkok's Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) has 18 stations. Beginning at Hua Lamphong Train Station, the MRT heads southeast past Lumphini Park before turning north, up to Lad Phrao, and then makes a wiggle westward to Bang Sue. It has a messy and confusing interchange outside the Dusit Thani Hotel, 100m (328 ft.) from Sala Daeng BTS (on Silom Rd.) and also at Asok BTS (on Sukhumvit Rd.) before its terminus near Mo Chit Bus Station in the north and the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Trains run from 5am to midnight and the system uses small plastic discs or stored-value Smart Passes, which, like the BTS Sky Smart Pass, are swept over sensors. Ticket prices vary by distance and cost 16B to 42B. A 1-day pass costs 120B, while a 3-day pass costs 230B. 

The Skytrain and MRT are two separate entities, and while there have been talks of creating a universal card that works with both systems, it currently isn’t available. The BTS and MRT share three connection points: Sala Daeng and Silom, Asok and Sukhumvit, and Mo Chit and Chatuchak.

By Public Riverboats -- Efficient and scenic, but not so comfortable, the public riverboats on the Chao Phraya are a great way to get around the sites in the city center and are a remarkable window into local life. Most sightseers will board at Central Pier, down the steps from Saphan Taksin (Taksin Bridge) BTS. The major stops going upstream from Saphan Taksin are Tha Ratchawong (for Chinatown), Tha Thien (near Wat Po), and Tha Chang (near the Temple of the Emerald Buddha).

The tourist boats operated by the Chao Phraya Express Boat Co. (tel. 02623-6001; www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) offer the most relaxed way to travel along this busy river. These steady, wide-bodied vessels are huge and have plenty of seats and make regular stops along the river. Microphone-equipped guides explain in English about the sites you pass. The last boat leaving Taksin Bridge is at 4pm. Short trips start at 18B, but you can also buy an all-day pass, which includes a map showing all piers and nearby attractions, for 150B. This allows you to hop off and on at will. Boats take about 30 minutes to go from Taksin Bridge to Banglampoo.

Cross-river ferries are small ferries that run only from the east bank to the west, so they're useful for getting to such places as Wat Arun, Klong San Market, or Patravadi Theater. They cost about 3B each way.

By Canal Boat -- Travel by a canal boating is about as local as transportation can get in Bangkok. It’s a fun if somewhat odorous way to beat rush-hour traffic, allowing you to cross Bangkok from a starting point close to the Grand Palace and trek across to Sukhumvit through the commercial heart of the city. A narrow, dirty canal, Klong Saen Saep, runs the length of Phetchaburi Road, with stops in central Bangkok (and all the way to Thonglor, after a change at Krung Kasem Road). These long, low boats are designed to fit under bridges and have tarps that are raised and lowered by pulleys to protect passengers from any toxic splashes. Rides start at just 14B. Board the boats just north of Wat Mahathat. These canal buses really zip along and churn up a stink, but they offer a unique perspective on the last vestiges of what was once called the “Venice of the East,” and taking one gets you through central Bangkok without having to inhale noxious bus fumes or endure motionless traffic. 

By Chartered Longtail Boat -- Private boats are a great way to see the busy riverside area and to tour the narrow canals of neighboring Thonburi, though you might want to pack a pair of earplugs for the experience. Boat charters are available at any pier. You can wave one down and, within seconds, you'll be greeted by the shouts of operators. But it's more convenient and probably safer to arrange trips at the riverfront kiosk at River City or at the Grand Palace (tel. 02225-6179). If you want a guide, check for one with a TAT license, as you're less likely to be overcharged. Trips of varying length cost up to 1,000B per hour, per boat -- though drivers will try to get more. Be specific about destinations and times before you agree to one.

By Public Bus -- Bangkok buses are very cheap, frequent, and fairly fast, but a little bit confusing and not user-friendly in terms of helpful ticket takers, or simply marked routes and stops. There are big blue buses with air-conditioned routes and also cheaper red or small green ones (non-air-conditioned). Anyone with asthma or respiratory conditions would do well to avoid these fume-filled tin cans. You'll need to be especially careful of pickpockets on buses, too.

The most practical air-conditioned routes are A1 (looping from the Grand Palace area to Rama IV Rd., Siam Square, and then east down Ploenchit and Sukhumvit roads), A2 (running a loop through the Business District [Bangrak] area along Silom and Surawong roads), A3 (connecting the Dusit area near the zoo and Khao San Rd. before crossing the Chao Phraya), and A8 (running the length of Rama I, Ploenchit, and Sukhumvit roads). Fares are collected onboard -- try to have exact change. Fares are cheap, between 12B and 30B.

By Taxi -- Taxis are everywhere in this city -- except, of course, during a change of shift (3-4:30pm) and in heavy rain. But when they do appear, they are very affordable. Just flag them down (you can hail taxis along any road at any time, or join queues in front of hotels and shopping malls), and always insist that drivers use the meter. At night, especially around Patpong and the Oriental Hotel, stationary taxis will try to fleece passengers with demands for an extortionately high flat fare. Let these sharks be, and opt for flagging one down that's already traveling along the main road.

Taxis charge a 35B flag fare which covers the first minute; thereafter, it is about 5B per kilometer. Most Thai drivers do not speak English or read maps, so it's good to have your hotel concierge write out any destination in Thai.

Drivers rarely carry change. The best you will get is change from 100B notes, but drivers habitually claim that they have no change in the hope of getting a bit extra. Tipping is not necessary, but a small tip is appreciated.

By Car & Driver -- You'd have to be a certified lunatic to drive yourself around Bangkok: Generally anarchic traffic, seas of cavalier motorbikes recklessly breaking every rule, and aggressive tactics by (sometimes amphetamine-fueled) cabbies and truck drivers are the norm. If you're in search of your own wheels, it is best to hire a car with a driver. Reputable companies provide sedans or minivans with drivers who know the city well, some of whom speak English. They also offer the option of an accompanying tour guide -- professionals or students who can take you around each sight. Major rental companies such as Avis and Hertz offer chauffeured cars for roughly 1000B per hour.

By Tuk-Tuk -- As much a national symbol as the elephant, the tuk-tuk (named for the sound) is a small three-wheeled, open-sided vehicle powered by a motorcycle engine. It is noisy, smelly, and incredibly cramped for long legs but definitely provides an adventure, especially for first-time visitors to Thailand. They're not recommended for long hauls or during rush hour -- if you get stuck behind a bus or truck you'll be dealing with unpleasant exhaust fumes and the resulting migraines. Tuk-tuks are also deathtraps in the event of an accident (and the drivers tend to be a bit kamikaze), so avoid using them on highways. For short trips off highways, during off-peak hours, though, they're convenient. All tuk-tuk fares are negotiated, usually beginning at 50B for foreigners on short trips. Bargain very hard, but know that you'll always pay 100% more than locals.

A warning: Tuk-tuk drivers are notorious for trying to talk travelers into shopping trips or stops at brothels masquerading as massage parlors. They will offer you a very low fare but then dump you at small, out-of-the-way gem and silk emporiums, and overpriced tourist restaurants or brothels. Insist on being taken where you want to go directly or mention the word poleet; it's how Thais pronounce "police."

By Motorcycle Taxi -- On every street corner, packs of drivers in colored, numbered vests stand by to shuttle passengers around the city. Though they get you around fast when you're in a hurry (weaving through traffic jams and speeding down one-way streets the wrong way), they're also incredibly unsafe. These guys don't bother with safety, or insurance, and they stay awake on long shifts with energy drinks such as Red Bull. Use them strictly for short distances (they're popular for short hops to the end of a long soi, or side street). They charge from 20B for a few blocks to 60B for greater distances. Hold on tight and keep your knees tucked in. Crash helmets are mandatory these days -- so insist on one, but know the flimsy head wear on offer will be almost useless in the event of a crash.

On Foot -- In general, Bangkok is not a pedestrian-friendly city, though improvements have been made in the city center with the construction of skywalks. Bangkok sidewalks are a gauntlet of buckled tiles, loose manhole coverings, and tangled (live) wires. The city also suffers greatly from flooding; be on guard and don't wear fancy open shoes in monsoon season. In addition, Bangkok's pedestrian traffic -- particularly in the overcrowded BTS and at rush hour -- moves at a painfully slow amble at best, infuriating folks in a hurry. It's best to go with the flow; otherwise, you'll only aggravate yourself. In commercial areas, street vendors take up precious sidewalk space (except on Mon). When crossing busier streets, look for pedestrian flyovers, or, if you have to cross at street level, find others who are crossing and follow them when they head out into traffic. Unlike in Western countries, crossing lights only serve as suggestions here -- drivers rarely stop to allow pedestrians to cross.

Surfing the Canals

Here's a fun but somewhat odorous way to beat rush-hour traffic, allowing you to cross Bangkok from a starting point close to the Grand Palace and trek back to Sukhumvit through the commercial heart of the city. A narrow, dirty canal, Klong Saen Saep, runs the length of New Phetchaburi Road, with stops in central Bangkok (and all the way to Thong Lor, after a change at Krung Kasem Rd.). These long, low boats are designed to fit under bridges and are fitted with tarps that are raised and lowered by pulleys to protect passengers from any toxic splashes. Rides start at just 8B. Board the boats just north of Wat Mahathat. These canal buses really zip along and churn up a stink, but they offer a unique perspective on the last vestiges of what was once called the "Venice of the East," and taking one gets you back to central Bangkok without having to inhale noxious bus fumes in motionless traffic.

Getting There

By Plane

Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport (airport code BKK; tel. 02132-1888), which opened in 2006, is the main hub for all international travelers arriving in Thailand; it also handles domestic flights (with three-digit codes) in and out of the capital. It's 30km (over 18 miles) east of the city. Pronounced nothing like it looks, the correct way to say the same is “su-wan-na-poom”. Suvarnabhumi offers a wide range of services, including luggage storage, currency exchange, banks, a branch of the British pharmacy Boots, ATMs, a post office, medical centers (two are 24-hr. clinics), Internet service, and telephones. All of Suvarnabhumi's restaurant and shopping outlets are infamously overpriced (up to 10 times city prices), though; budget travelers would do well to stop by a downtown convenience store to stock up on snacks and drinks. Within the airport complex, just a couple of minutes from the terminal exit, is Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport (www.novotel.com), a five-star hotel. For more detailed information on Suvarnabhumi, see www.suvarnabhumiairport.com.

Bangkok’s former international airport Don Muang Airport (airport code DMG; tel. 02535-1111) is 24km (15 miles) north of the heart of the city and this is where most domestic flights (but certainly not all) and regional budget flights operate in Bangkok. It got a facelift in 2016/2017, and it’s a clean, easy-to-navigate facility with cafes, and international chains like Starbucks and ATMs. Amari Don Muang Airport Hotel (www.amari.com/donmuang) is opposite the airport and is accessed via a sky bridge or a shuttle bus (book in advance). For more details on Don Muang, see www.donmuangairportonline.com.

There is a free shuttle bus that connects the two airports available 5am to midnight.  

Getting To & From the Airports -- From both Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang, it takes 30 to 90 minutes to drive to the city center, depending on traffic and if it is raining, which inexplicably doubles the commute time. Inexpensive and readily available, taxis are the best way to get to or from the city (and may be the cheapest way). Taxis only take cash, so make sure you have smaller notes, like 20B, 50B or 100B, since 1,000B bills are hard to break. At Suvarnabhumi taxi counters, there are specific lines for van taxis, so look out for those if you’re with a group or have extra baggage. Take a ticket from the automated machine, which will direct you to a corresponding number where you’ll meet your assigned cab driver. From either airport, a trip downtown should cost about 300B, plus expressway tolls. Some drivers will ask for cash at the tolls, while others will add it on to the bill upon arriving at the destination.

If arriving at Suvarnabhumi during rush hour, consider taking the Airport Rail Link to the city center. The express train takes 15 minutes to Makkasan Terminal, near the Phetchaburi MRT station, and costs 90B. A local line takes 30 minutes to cover the same journey for 45B and arrives at the Phaya Thai BTS. Trains depart every 15 minutes from 6am to midnight. At first blush, this may seem like the most appealing option considering the price and transit time. But Bangkok’s local transit systems, the BTS and MRT, are tricky to navigate with luggage and cover only a fraction of the city’s grid, so you’ll very likely need a cab to reach your hotel from the station anyway (meaning the end price could be the same). 

Private limousine services such as AOT offer air-conditioned sedans and drivers from both airports. Look for the booth in arrivals. Trips start at 1,000B. Advanced booking is not necessary.

Airport Express buses were terminated when the rail link launched, and local bus services are really only for people who know their way around. For these, you will need to get on a free shuttle, located at level 2 or 4, going to the Public Transportation Center. From there, buses costing around 42B cover 12 city routes, including major BTS stops and the Southern Bus Terminal. 

By Train

Trains to and from the capital stop at Hua Lampong Station (tel. 02220-4334), east of Yaowarat (Chinatown). Lying at a major intersection of Rama IV and Krung Kasem roads, it’s notoriously gridlocked during morning and evening rush hours, so allow 40 minutes extra for traffic delays. Better yet, take the MRT to Hualamphong; it’s across the road from the station. 

By Bus

Bangkok has three major bus stations, each serving a different part of the country. All air-conditioned public buses to the West and the Southern Peninsula arrive and depart from the Southern Bus Terminal (tel. 02793-8111), on Putthamonthon Soi 1, west of the river, over the Phra Pinklao Bridge from the Democracy Monument. Service to the East Coast (including Pattaya) arrives and departs from the Eastern Bus Terminal, also known as Ekkamai (tel. 02391-2504), on Sukhumvit Road opposite Soi 63 (Ekkamai BTS). Buses to the north arrive and leave from the Northern Bus Terminal, aka Mo Chit (tel. 02936-2841), Kampaengphet 2 Road, near the Chatuchak Weekend Market, and a short taxi or bus ride from Mo Chit BTS or MRT stations. Affordable, long-distance VIP buses leave from various locations in town and can be booked by any of the agents along Sukhumvit or Khao San roads.