Health & Safety

Overall, L.A. is a healthy place to visit, although people with respiratory problems should keep in mind that L.A.'s air quality can often be poor, particularly in the valleys in the mid- to late summer (too many cars, too little wind). When the air quality is really bad, warnings are aired on local TV and radio stations encouraging people to avoid outdoor activities. If you're concerned about smog levels affecting your vacation, you can contact the South Coast Air Quality Management District at tel. 800/CUT-SMOG (288-7664) or www.aqmd.gov, which also publishes "Air Quality Forecast/Advisories" for the greater L.A. region. Tip: If you want to avoid the summer smog, stay and play along the coast. The light offshore breezes usually keep the beach communities relatively smog free.

Also, for people not used to so much sun -- L.A. averages 320 sunny days a year -- be sure to protect yourself from the sun's rays by wearing appropriate clothing (long-sleeve shirts, wide-brim hats) and/or using sunscreen with an SPF rating of at least 30 and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.

Safety

For a big city, Los Angeles is relatively safe, and requires only that you use common sense (for example, don't leave your new video camera on the seat of your parked car). However, in neighborhoods such as East L.A. and parts of Downtown (at night especially), it's a good idea to pay attention to your surroundings.

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and don't display expensive cameras or electronic equipment. Hold on to your handbag, and place your wallet in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.

Remember also that hotels are open to the public, and in a large hotel, security may not be able to screen everyone entering. Always lock your room door -- don't assume that inside your hotel you are automatically safe.

Driving safety is important, too. If you drive off a highway into a questionable neighborhood, leave the area as quickly as possible. If you have an accident, even on the highway, stay in your car with the doors locked until you assess the situation or until the police arrive. If you're bumped from behind on the street or are involved in a minor accident with no injuries, and the situation appears to be suspicious, motion to the other driver to follow you. Never get out of your car in such situations. Go directly to the nearest police precinct, well-lit service station, or 24-hour store (again, having that GPS handy is key). Report the incident to the police department immediately by calling tel. 911. This is a free call, even from pay phones.

Parking: Better Secure than Sorry -- If you're driving to Venice Beach, pay the $5 to $10 fee for a secured lot, hide your valuables, and walk to the beach -- car break-ins aren't uncommon.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Within the past 30 years, L.A. has gone from having a single area code (213) to a whopping seven. Even residents can't keep up. As of press time, here's the basic layout: Those areas west of La Cienega Boulevard, including Beverly Hills and the city's beach communities, use either the 310 or 424 area codes. Portions of Los Angeles County east and south of the city, including Long Beach, are in the 562 area. The San Fernando Valley has the 818 area code, while points east -- including parts of Burbank, Glendale, and Pasadena -- use the 626 code. What happened to 213, you ask? The Downtown business area still uses 213. All other numbers, including Griffith Park, Hollywood, and parts of West Hollywood (east of La Cienega Blvd.) now use the area code 323. If it's all too much to remember, just call directory assistance at tel. 411.

Automobile Organizations -- Motor clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to a motor club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 877/428-2277; www.aaa.com). AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357]).

Business Hours -- Offices are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm. Banks are open weekdays from 9am to 5pm or later and sometimes Saturday mornings. Stores typically open between 9 and 10am and close between 5 and 6pm from Monday through Saturday. Stores in shopping complexes or malls tend to stay open late: until about 9pm on weekdays and weekends, and many malls and larger department stores are open on Sundays.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.

Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies and Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au).

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance anywhere in the United States. This is a toll-free call (no coins are required at public telephones).

If you encounter traveler's problems, call the Los Angeles chapter of the Traveler's Aid Society (tel. 310/646-2270; www.travelersaid.org), a nationwide, nonprofit, social service organization that helps travelers in difficult straits. Its services might include reuniting families separated while traveling, providing food and/or shelter to people stranded without cash, and even emotional counseling.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol), is at an all-time high (about $4 per gallon). Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Hospitals -- The centrally located (and world-famous) Cedars-Sinai Medical Center, 8700 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles (tel. 310/423-3277), has a 24-hour emergency room staffed by some of the country's finest doctors.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Internet Access -- Los Angeles is totally wired. You'll find that many cafes have wireless access, as do most hotels, coffee shops, and even fast-food joints.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call your embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so on). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit http://zip4.usps.com.

Newspapers and Magazines -- The Los Angeles Times (www.latimes.com) is a high-quality daily with strong local and national coverage. Its "Find Local" section (http://findlocal.latimes.com) is an excellent guide to entertainment in and around L.A., and includes listings of what's doing and where to do it. The L.A. Weekly (www.laweekly.com), a free weekly listings magazine, is packed with information on current events around town. Los Angeles magazine (www.lamag.com) is a city-based monthly full of news, information, and previews of L.A.'s art, music, and food scenes. World Book and News Co., at 1652 N. Cahuenga Blvd. (tel. 323/465-4352), near Hollywood and Vine and Grauman's Chinese Theatre, stocks lots of out-of-town and foreign papers and magazines. No one minds if you browse through the magazines, but you'll be reprimanded for thumbing through the newspapers. It's open 24 hours.

Police -- In an emergency, dial tel. 911. For nonemergency police matters, call tel. 213/485-2121; in Beverly Hills, dial tel. 310/550-4951.

Smoking -- Heavy smokers are in for a tough time in Los Angeles. Smoking is banned in public buildings, sports arenas, elevators, theaters, banks, lobbies, restaurants, offices, stores, bed-and-breakfasts, most small hotels, and bars. That's right -- as of January 1, 1998, you can't even smoke in a bar in California. The only exception is a bar where drinks are served solely by the owner. Implemented in March 2011, there are now further restrictions on smoking in outdoor-dining areas. Bar patios are being targeted next. Entire hotel properties are increasingly 100-percent smoke-free. Once upon a time, people would turn a blind eye, but now that fines are so heavy, this is no longer true.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. Sales tax in Los Angeles is 9.75%. Hotel tax is charged on the room tariff only (which is not subject to sales tax) and is set by the city, ranging from 12% to 17% around Southern California.

Time -- Los Angeles is in the Pacific Standard Time zone, which is 8 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time and 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 to $2 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 to $2 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cabdrivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Nearly every attraction in Los Angeles offers a senior discount; age requirements vary. Public transportation and movie theaters also have reduced rates. Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry some kind of identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, and anyone 50 and over can join.

When to Go

Many visitors don't realize that Los Angeles -- despite its blue ocean, swaying palm trees, green lawns, and forested foothills -- is actually the high desert. But with the desert climes tempered by sea breezes and the landscape kept green with water carried by aqueducts from all around the West, L.A. might be the most accommodating desert you've ever visited. No matter how hot it gets, low humidity usually keeps things dry and comfortable.

Tourism peaks during summer, when coastal hotels fill to capacity, restaurant reservations can be hard to get, and top attractions are packed with visitors and locals off from work or school. Summer can be miserable in the inland valleys, where daytime temperatures -- and that famous L.A. smog -- can be stifling, but the beach communities almost always remain comfortable. Moderate temperatures, fewer crowds, and lower hotel rates make travel to L.A. most pleasurable during the winter. The city is at its best from early autumn to late spring, when the skies are less smoggy. Rain is rare in Los Angeles -- about 34 days a year, on average -- but it can cause flooding when it does sneak up on the unsuspecting city; precipitation is most likely from February to April and is virtually unheard of between May and November. Even in January, daytime temperatures reach into the 60s (high teens Celsius) and higher -- sometimes up to the 80s (high 20s Celsius).

Pundits claim L.A. has no seasons; it might be more accurate to say the city has its own unique seasons. Two of them are "June Gloom" and "the Santa Anas." The first refers to the ocean fog that keeps the beach cities (and often all of L.A.) overcast into early afternoon; it's most common in June but can occur any time between March and mid-August. The middle of autumn (Oct-Nov) often brings the "Santa Anas," strong, hot winds from across the desert that increase brush-fire danger (surfers love the offshore conditions they usually create).

Winds and coastal fog aside, Los Angeles remains relatively temperate year-round, with an average of 320 sunny days per year and an average mean temperature of 66°F (19°C). It's possible to sunbathe throughout the year, but only die-hard enthusiasts and wet-suited surfers venture into the ocean in winter, when water temps hover around 50° to 55°F (10°-13°C). The water is warmest in summer and fall, usually about 65° to 70°F (18°-21°C), but even then the Pacific can be too chilly for many.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential election years.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Los Angeles's spirit of tolerance and diversity has made it a welcoming place for travelers with disabilities. Strict building codes make most public facilities and attractions extremely accessible (though some historic sites and older buildings simply can't accommodate drastic remodeling), and the city provides many services for those with disabilities.

The Los Angeles County Commission on Disabilities (tel. 213/974-1053) provides telephone referrals and information about L.A. for those with physical disabilities.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with limited mobility include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). Air Ambulance Card (www.airambulancecard.com) allows you to select top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency, either domestically or internationally.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

When the city of West Hollywood was incorporated in 1984, it elected a lesbian mayor and a predominantly gay city council. West Hollywood, also known as WeHo, has been waving the rainbow flag ever since. While L.A.'s large gay community is too vast to be contained in this 2-square-mile city, West Hollywood has the largest concentration of gay- and lesbian-oriented businesses and services. Santa Monica, Venice, Silver Lake, and Studio City are other lesbian and gay enclaves.

There are many gay-oriented publications with information and up-to-date listings, including Frontiers, a Southern California-based biweekly; Metro Source magazine, a New York and L.A.-based monthly. The periodicals above are available at most newsstands citywide.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Gay.com Travel (http://daily.gay.com/travel or www.outtraveler.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out and About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 40th Edition (www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those noted here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Tournament of Roses, Pasadena. A spectacular parade marches down Colorado Boulevard, with lavish floats, music, and extraordinary equestrian entries, followed by the Rose Bowl football game. (It's tradition among parade-goes to camp out along Colorado Boulevard the night before in order to secure a good spot.) Call tel. 626/449-4100 or visit www.tournamentofroses.com for details. January 1.

Martin Luther King, Jr., Parade, Long Beach. This annual parade down Martin Luther King, Jr. Avenue and Anaheim Street ends with a festival in Martin Luther King, Jr., Park. For more information, contact the city manager at tel. 562/570-6711. Third Monday in January.

Bob Hope Classic, Palm Springs area. Celebrating its 52nd year in 2011, this PGA golf tournament raises money for charity and includes a celebrity-studded Pro-Am. For spectator information and tickets, call tel. 760/346-8184. Mid- to late January.

Santa Barbara International Film Festival, Santa Barbara. For 10 days every year, Santa Barbara does its best impression of Cannes. There's a flurry of foreign and independent film premieres, appearances by actors and directors, and symposia on cinematic topics. For a rundown of events, call tel. 805/963-0023 or visit www.sbiff.org. Late January to early February.

Chinese New Year and Golden Dragon Parade, Los Angeles. Dragon dancers and martial arts masters parade through the streets of Downtown's Chinatown. Chinese opera and other events are scheduled. For this year's schedule, contact the Chinese Chamber of Commerce at tel. 213/617-0396 or visit www.lachinesechamber.org. Late January or early February.

February

National Date Festival, Indio (Palm Springs area). Crowds gather for 2 weeks to celebrate the Coachella Valley desert's most beloved cash crop, with events like camel and ostrich races, the Blessing of the Date Garden, and festive Arabian Nights pageants. Plenty of date-sampling booths are set up, along with rides, food vendors, and other county-fair trappings. Call tel. 800/811-3247 or 760/863-8247, or visit www.datefest.org. Two weeks in February.

Northern Trust Open Golf Tournament, Pacific Palisades. The PGA Tour makes its only Tinseltown appearance at the Riviera Country Club, overlooking the ocean. Expect to see stars in attendance. For information, call the Los Angeles Junior Chamber of Commerce at tel. 310/454-6591. Mid-February.

Mardi Gras, West Hollywood. The festivities -- including live jazz and lots of food -- take place along Santa Monica Boulevard, and in the alley behind Santa Monica Boulevard. Contact the West Hollywood Convention and Visitors Bureau at tel. 800/368-6020 for details. Late February or early March.

March

Los Angeles Marathon, Downtown. This 26-mile run attracts thousands of participants, from world champions to the guy next door; the big day also features a 5K run/walk and a bike marathon on the same route. The run starts at Dodger Stadium and ends at the Santa Monica Pier. Call tel. 310/271-7200 or visit www.lamarathon.com for registration or spectator information. Mid March.

California Poppy Blooming Season, Antelope Valley. Less than an hour's drive north of Los Angeles lies the California Poppy Reserve, part of the state park system. In spring, miles of hillside blaze with brilliant hues of red and orange, dazzling the senses of motorists who flock to witness the display. For information and directions, call tel. 661/723-6077. Mid-March to mid-May. For information on the annual California Poppy Festival, held at full bloom (usually in mid to late Apr), call tel. 661/723-6077 or visit www.poppyfestival.com.

April

Toyota Grand Prix, Long Beach. An exciting weekend of Indy-class auto racing and entertainment in and around downtown Long Beach draws world-class drivers from the United States and Europe, plus many celebrity contestants and spectators. Contact the Grand Prix Association at tel. 888/82-SPEED (827-7333) or www.gplb.com. Mid-April.

Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, Indio. Known in colloquial terms as simply "Coachella" this now 3-day extravaganza has become one of the biggest music festivals in the country. People travel from all over the States -- and all over the world -- for the diverse array of talent. Everyone from Paul McCartney and Madonna to Kraftwerk and Daft Punk have performed on one of the five stages within the Polo Field grounds. For ticket information, log on to the official website, www.coachella.com. Mid-April.

Renaissance Pleasure Faire, Irwindale. This annual event -- one of the largest and oldest in the country -- takes place at the relatively hidden Santa Fe Dam Recreation Area. It features an Elizabethan marketplace with costumed performers. The fair provides an entire day's activities, including shows, food, and crafts. You're encouraged to come in period costume. For ticket information, call tel. 626/969-4750, or log on to the national website, www.renfair.com. Weekends from early April to mid-May.

May

Cinco de Mayo, Los Angeles. A weeklong celebration of the Mexican victory over the French Army in 1862 takes place throughout the city. There's a carnival atmosphere with large crowds, live music, dancing, and food. The main festivities are held at El Pueblo de Los Angeles State Historic Park in Downtown; call tel. 213/628-1274 for information. Other events are held around the city. The week surrounding May 5.

National Orange Show, San Bernardino. An Inland Empire tradition since 1911 -- when there were more orange groves than houses in Southern California -- this weeklong county fair includes stadium events, celebrity entertainment, livestock shows, crafts and food booths, and carnival rides. Call tel. 909/888-6788. Second half of May.

Venice Art Walk, Venice Beach. This annual weekend event gives visitors a chance to take docent-guided tours of galleries and studios, plus a Sunday self-guided art walk through the private home studios of more than 50 emerging and well-known artists. For details, call the Venice Family Clinic, which coordinates the event (tel. 310/392-8630), or visit its website at www.venicefamilyclinic.org. Second half of May.

Long Beach Lesbian and Gay Pride Parade and Festival, Shoreline Park, Long Beach. This event features rock and country music, dancing, food, and more than 100 decorated floats. Call tel. 562/987-9191 or visit www.longbeachpride.com. Second half of May.

Doheny Blues Festival, Doheny State Beach, Dana Point. This festival features great live music (past acts have included the likes of Little Richard, Los Lobos, and the Black Crowes) on three stages -- blues, rock, and soul -- at a waterfront grass park. Arts and crafts vendors, memorabilia, and unique displays surround the International Food Court, with restaurants and beverages of all types. Proceeds benefit local charities. Call tel. 949/362-3366 or log on to www.omegaevents.com. Mid- to late May.

June

Playboy Jazz Festival, Los Angeles. Bill Cosby is the traditional master of ceremonies, presiding over the top jazz musicians at the Hollywood Bowl. Call tel. 800/745-3000. Mid-June.

Christopher Street West Festival and Parade, West Hollywood. For more than 40 years, this West Hollywood event has been one of the largest lesbian and gay pride festivals and parades in the world. Outdoor stages, disco- and Western-dance tents, food, and revelry culminate in Sunday's parade down Santa Monica Boulevard. Call tel. 323/969-8302 or log on to www.lapride.org. Early to mid-June.

Los Angeles Film Festival, Los Angeles. With attendance of more than 60,000, the festival showcases more than 175 American and international indies, short films, and music videos during the 10-day event. Call tel. 866/345-6337 or log on to www.lafilmfest.com. Mid to late June.

Mariachi USA Festival, Los Angeles. At this family-oriented celebration of Mexican culture and tradition at the Hollywood Bowl, festival-goers pack their picnic baskets and enjoy music, folkloric ballet, and related performances by top grupos. The all-day, all-night celebration is one of the largest mariachi festivals in the world. For tickets, call tel. 800/MARIACHI (627-4224) or 323/850-2000 (the Hollywood Bowl), or log on to www.mariachiusa.com. Mid to late June.

July

Lotus Festival, Echo Park. Celebrants gather to witness the spectacular blooms of Echo Lake's floating lotus grove. In keeping with the Asian and South Pacific islands theme, the festivities include tropical music and entertainment, ethnic foods, exotic birds, and plenty of lotus-inspired arts and crafts for sale. Admission is free. Call tel. 213/413-1622 for information, or log on to www.laparks.org/calendar/lotus/lotus.htm. Second weekend of July.

Beach Festival, Huntington Beach. Two weeks of fun in the sun featuring two surfing competitions -- the U.S. Open of Surfing and the world-class Pro of Surfing -- plus extreme sports like BMX biking, skateboarding, and more. The festival includes entertainment, food, tons of product booths and giveaways -- and plenty of tanned, swimsuit-clad bodies of both sexes. For more information, call tel. 714/969-3492 or log on to www.surfcityusa.com. End of July.

Festival of Arts and Pageant of the Masters, Laguna Beach. A 70-year tradition in artsy Laguna, this festival centers on a fantastic performance-art production in which actors re-create famous old-masters paintings. Other festivities include live music, crafts sales, art demonstrations and workshops, and the grass-roots Sawdust Festival across the street. Grounds admission is $4 to $7; pageant tickets range from $15 to $150. Call tel. 800/487-FEST (487-3378) or 949/494-1145; there's online info at www.foapom.com. July through August.

August

Nisei Week Japanese Festival, Los Angeles. This weeklong celebration of Japanese culture and heritage -- and L.A.'s oldest ethnic festival -- is held in the Japanese American Cultural and Community Center Plaza in Little Tokyo. Festivities include parades, food, Taiko Drum performances, arts, and crafts. Call tel. 213/687-7193 or log on to www.niseiweek.org. Mid-August.

September

Los Angeles County Fair, Pomona. Horse racing, arts, agricultural displays, celebrity entertainment, and carnival rides are among the attractions at one of the largest county fairs in the world, held at the Los Angeles County Fair and Exposition Center. Call tel. 909/623-3111 or visit www.fairplex.com for information. Throughout September.

Long Beach Blues Festival, Long Beach. Great performances by blues legends such as Etta James, Dr. John, and the Allman Brothers make this an event you won't want to miss if you love the blues. The event serves cold beer, wine, and food throughout. Call tel. 562/985-2999 or log on to www.jazzandblues.org. Labor Day weekend.

Simon Rodia Watts Towers Jazz Festival, Los Angeles. This event pays tribute to the roots of jazz in gospel and blues, as well as celebrating the avant-garde and Latin jazz scene. It's also a great opportunity to visit the Watts Towers. Call tel. 213/847-4646 or log on to www.wattstowers.us. Late September.

October

Catalina Island JazzTrax Festival, Catalina Island. Contemporary jazz greats play at Avalon's legendary Casino Ballroom. This enormously popular festival takes place over 3 consecutive weekends. Call tel. 866/872-9849 or visit www.jazztrax.com for advance ticket sales and a schedule of performers. Three weekends in October.

Hollywood Film Festival, Hollywood. More than 50 films from the U.S. and abroad are screened, with celebrities in abundance. There's also a variety of workshops and marketplaces for aspiring actors and filmmakers. Call tel. 310/288-1882 or visit www.hollywoodawards.com for info and tickets. Mid-October.

West Hollywood Halloween Costume Carnaval, West Hollywood. This is one of the world's largest Halloween parties. More than 500,000 people, many dressed in outlandish drag couture, party all night along Santa Monica Boulevard. Call tel. 310/289-2525 or visit www.visitwesthollywood.com for info. October 31.

November

American Indian Arts Marketplace, Autry National Center. For more than 20 years, this showcase of Native American arts and culture, has included traditional dances, music, and arts and crafts, as well as a chance to sample Native American foods. For further details, call tel. 323/667-2000. First weekend of November.

American Film Institute's Los Angeles International Film Festival, Los Angeles. Some of the biggest names in the international film community gather to see new movies from around the world. Call tel. 866/AFI-FEST (234-3378) or visit www.afi.com for info and tickets. Early November.

Catalina Island Eco Marathon, Catalina Island. Participants run on the island's inner roads, challenging trails, and even attempt to best the "Catalina Crush" hill at mile 19. There's also a 5K and 10K course. Call Spectrum Sports at tel. 909/399-3553 or visit www.catalinaecomarathon.com. Early November.

Doo Dah Parade, Pasadena. This outrageous spoof of the Rose Parade features such participants as the Briefcase Precision Drill Team and a kazoo-playing marching band. Call tel. 626/590-1134 or visit www.pasadenadoodahparade.info. Near Thanksgiving.

Hollywood Christmas Parade, Hollywood. This spectacular, star-studded parade marches through the heart of Hollywood. For information, call tel. 866/727-2331 or visit www.thehollywoodchristmasparade.com. Sunday after Thanksgiving.

December

Christmas Boat Parade of Lights. Sailors decorate their crafts with colorful lights. Several Southern California harbors hold nighttime parades; participants range from tiny dinghies with a single strand of lights to showy yachts with Nativity scenes twinkling on deck. Call the following for phone numbers for information and exact times: Ventura, tel. 805/382-3001; Marina Del Rey, tel. 310/670-7130; Huntington Harbor, tel. 714/840-7542.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Los Angeles isn't a single compact city like San Francisco, but a sprawling suburbia comprising dozens of disparate communities located either on the ocean or on the flatlands of a huge desert basin. Ocean breezes push the city's infamous smog inland and through mountain passes into the sprawl of the San Fernando and San Gabriel valleys. Downtown L.A. is in the center of the basin, about 12 miles east of the Pacific Ocean. Most visitors spend the bulk of their time either along the coastline, in Hollywood, or on the city's ever-trendy Westside.

Santa Monica & the Beaches

These are many people's favorite L.A. communities and get my strong recommendation as one of the premier places to book a hotel for your vacation, especially during summer, when the beaches can be a good 20 degrees cooler than the sweltering parts of the city. Fair warning though: especially in winter, the weather can be downright grey. The 60-mile beachfront stretching from Malibu to the Palos Verdes peninsula has milder weather and less smog than the inland communities, and traffic is lighter, except on summer weekends. The towns along the coast each have a distinct mood and charm, and most are connected via a walk/bike path. They're listed below from north to south.

Malibu -- At the northern border of Los Angeles County, 25 miles from Downtown, Malibu was once a privately owned ranch -- purchased in 1857 for 10¢ an acre and now the most expensive real estate in L.A. Today its 27 miles of wide beaches, beachfront cliffs, sparsely populated hills, and relative remoteness from the inner city make it popular with rich recluses such as Cher and Mel Gibson. Indeed, the resident lists of Malibu Colony and nearby Broad Beach -- oceanfront strips of closely packed mansions -- read like a who's who in Hollywood. With plenty of green space and dramatic rocky outcroppings, Malibu's rural beauty is unsurpassed in L.A., and surfers flock to "the 'Bu" for great, if crowded, waves.

Santa Monica -- Los Angeles's premier beach community, Santa Monica is known for its festive ocean pier, stylish oceanfront hotels, artsy atmosphere, and large population of homeless residents (I know, that's an oxymoron, but it fits). Shopping is king here, especially along the Third Street Promenade, a pedestrian-only outdoor mall lined with dozens of shops and restaurants.

Venice Beach -- Created by tobacco mogul Abbot Kinney (who set out in 1904 to transform a worthless marsh into a resort town modeled after Venice, Italy), Venice Beach has a series of narrow canals connected by one-lane bridges that you'll see as you explore this refreshingly eclectic community. It was once infested with grime and crime, but gentrification has brought scores of great restaurants, boutiques, and rising property values for the canal-side homes and apartment duplexes. Even the movie stars and pop stars are moving in: Kate Beckinsale, Anjelica Huston, and Alanis Morissette reside here. Some of L.A.'s most innovative and interesting architecture lines funky Main Street. But without question, Venice Beach is best known for its Ocean Front Walk, a nonstop Mardi Gras of thong-wearing skaters, fortunetellers, street musicians, and poseurs of all ages, colors, types, and sizes.

Marina del Rey -- Just south of Venice, Marina del Rey is a somewhat quieter, more upscale waterside community best known for its man-made small-craft harbor, the largest of its kind in the world. Fittingly, it offers a wide variety of public boating opportunities, including fishing trips, harbor tours, dinner cruises, and private sailing charters.

Manhattan, Hermosa and Redondo beaches -- These are laid-back, mainly residential neighborhoods with modest homes (except for oceanfront real estate), mild weather, and residents happy to have fled the L.A. hubbub. There are excellent beaches for volleyball, surfing, and tanning here, but when it comes to cultural activities, pickings can be slim. The restaurant scene, while limited, has been improving steadily, and some great new bars and clubs have opened near their respective piers.

L.A.'s Westside & Beverly Hills

The Westside, sandwiched between Hollywood and the city's coastal communities, includes some of Los Angeles's most prestigious neighborhoods, virtually all with names you're sure to recognize:

Beverly Hills -- Politically distinct from the rest of Los Angeles, Beverly Hills is a famous enclave best known for its palm-tree-lined streets of palatial homes, famous residents (Jack Nicholson, Warren Beatty and Annette Bening), and high-priced shops. But it's not all glitz and glamour; the healthy mix of filthy rich, wannabes, and tourists that comprises downtown Beverly Hills creates a unique -- and often snobby-surreal -- atmosphere.

West Hollywood -- This key-shaped community's epicenter is the intersection of Santa Monica and La Cienega boulevards. Nestled between Beverly Hills and Hollywood, this politically independent -- and blissfully fast-food-free -- town is home to some of the area's best restaurants, clubs, shops, and art galleries. WeHo, as it's come to be known, is also the center of L.A.'s gay community -- you'll know you've arrived when you see the risqué billboards. Encompassing about 2 square miles, it's a pedestrian-friendly place with plenty of metered parking. Highlights include the 1 1/2 miles of Sunset Boulevard known as Sunset Strip, the chic Sunset Plaza retail strip, and the liveliest stretch of Santa Monica Boulevard.

Bel Air and Holmby Hills -- In the hills north of Westwood and west of Beverly Hills, these are old-money residential areas that are featured prominently on most maps to the stars' homes.

Brentwood -- Brentwood is best known as the famous backdrop to the O. J. Simpson melodrama. The neighborhood itself is generic, a relatively upscale mix of tract homes, restaurants, and strip malls. The Getty Center looms over Brentwood from its hilltop perch next to I-405.

Westwood -- An urban village founded in 1929 and home to the University of California at Los Angeles (UCLA), Westwood used to be a hot destination for a night on the town, but it lost much of its appeal in the past decade due to overcrowding and even some minor street violence. Although Westwood is unlikely to regain its old charm, the improved culinary scene has brought new life to the village. The area has been plagued by movie theater closures recently, but the historic Village Theater and the Bruin both survived, so it's still a fun destination for dinner and a flick.

Century City -- This is a compact and rather bland area sandwiched between West Los Angeles and Beverly Hills. The primary draws here are the 20th Century Fox studios and the Westfield Century City, a huge open-air shopping mall. Century City's three main thoroughfares are Century Park East, Avenue of the Stars, and Century Park West.

West Los Angeles -- West Los Angeles is a label that generally applies to everything that isn't one of the other Westside neighborhoods. It's basically the area south of Santa Monica Boulevard, north of Venice Boulevard, east of Santa Monica and Venice, and west and south of Century City.

Hollywood

Yes, they still come to the mecca of the film industry -- young hopefuls with stars in their eyes gravitate to this historic heart of L.A.'s movie production like moths fluttering to the glare of neon lights. But today's Hollywood is more illusion than industry. Many of the neighborhood's former movie studios have moved to more spacious venues in Burbank, the Westside, and other parts of the city.

Despite the downturn, visitors continue to flock to Hollywood's landmark attractions, such as the star-studded Walk of Fame and Grauman's Chinese Theatre. And now that the city's $1-billion, 30-year revitalization project is in full swing, Hollywood Boulevard is, finally, solidly showing signs that its ascent from a long, seedy slump is permanent. Refurbished movie houses and stylish restaurants and clubs are making a fierce comeback, and two boutique hotels have opened near the Hollywood and Vine Red Line Station: the W and the Redbury. The centerpiece Hollywood and Highland complex anchors the neighborhood, with shopping, entertainment, and a luxury hotel built around the beautiful Kodak Theatre, designed specifically to host the Academy Awards (really, you'll want to poke your head into this gorgeous theater).

Melrose Avenue -- Scruffy but fun, Melrose Avenue is the city's funkiest shopping district, catering to often-raucous youth with secondhand and avant-garde clothing shops. There are also a number of good restaurants.

The stretch of Wilshire Boulevard running through the southern part of Hollywood is known as the Mid-Wilshire district, or the Miracle Mile. It's lined with tall, contemporary apartment houses and office buildings. The section just east of Fairfax Avenue, known as Museum Row, is home to almost a dozen museums, including the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the La Brea Tar Pits, and that shrine to L.A. car culture, the Petersen Automotive Museum.

Griffith Park -- Up Western Avenue in the northernmost part of Hollywood, this is one of the country's largest urban parks, home to the Los Angeles Zoo, the famous Griffith Observatory, and the outdoor Greek Theater.

Downtown

Despite the relatively recent construction of several major cultural and entertainment centers (such as the Walt Disney Concert Hall, L.A. LIVE, and Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels) and a handful of trendy restaurants, L.A.'s Downtown isn't the tourist hub it would be in most cities. When it comes to entertaining visitors, the Westside, Hollywood, and beach communities are still far more popular. That said, if you haven't been in years, it's worth another look, particularly for those interested in eclectic restaurants and a bar scene more sophisticated but less pretentious than Hollywood's.

Easily recognized by the tight cluster of high-rise offices -- skyscrapers bolstered by earthquake-proof technology -- the business center of the city is eerily vacant on weekends and evenings, but the outlying residential communities, such as Koreatown, Little Tokyo, and Chinatown, are enticingly ethnic and vibrant. If you want a tan, head to Santa Monica, but if you want a refreshing dose of non-90210 culture, come here.

El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic District -- This is a 44-acre ode to the city's early years and is worth a visit. Chinatown is small and touristy but can be plenty of fun for souvenir hunting or traditional dim sum. Little Tokyo, on the other hand, is a genuine gathering place for the Southland's Japanese population, with a wide array of shops and restaurants with an authentic flair.

Silver Lake/Los Feliz -- These residential neighborhoods northwest of Downtown have arty, multicultural areas with unique cafes, theaters, and art galleries -- all in equally plentiful proportions, as well as a popular local music scene. It's also worth visiting to admire the old-school architecture styles from early L.A. -- Hollywood bungalows and Spanish haciendas, many built to house silent-screen actors.

Exposition Park -- South and west of Downtown is home to the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum and the L.A. Sports Arena, as well as the Natural History Museum, the African-American Museum, and the California Science Center. The University of Southern California (USC) is next door.

The San Fernando Valley

The San Fernando Valley, known locally as "the Valley," was nationally popularized in the 1980s by the notorious mall-loving "Valley Girl" stereotype. Sandwiched between the Santa Monica and the San Gabriel mountain ranges, most of the Valley is residential and commercial and off the beaten track for tourists. But some of its attractions are bound to draw you over the hill. Universal City, located west of Griffith Park between U.S. 101 and California 134, is home to Universal Studios Hollywood and the supersize shopping and entertainment complex CityWalk. About the only reason to go to Burbank, west of these other suburbs and north of Universal City, is to see one of your favorite TV shows being filmed at NBC or Warner Brothers Studios. A few good restaurants and shops can be found along Ventura Boulevard, in and around Studio City.

Glendale

Glendale is a largely residential community north of Downtown between the Valley and Pasadena. Here you'll find Forest Lawn, the city's best cemetery for very retired movie stars.

Pasadena and Environs

Best known as the site of the Tournament of Roses Parade every New Year's Day, Pasadena was spared from the tear-down epidemic that swept L.A., so it has a refreshing old-time feel. Once upon a time, Pasadena was every Angeleno's best-kept secret: a quiet community whose slow and careful regentrification meant nonchain restaurants and boutique shopping without the crowds, in a revitalized downtown respectful of its old brick and stone commercial buildings. Although the area's natural and architectural beauty still shines through -- so much so that Pasadena remains Hollywood's favorite backyard location for countless movies and TV shows -- Old Town has become a pedestrian mall similar to Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade, complete with huge crowds, midrange chain eateries, and standard-issue mall stores. It still gets our vote as a scenic alternative to the congestion of central L.A., but it has lost much of its small-town charm.

Pasadena is also home to the famous California Institute of Technology (CalTech), which boasts 22 Nobel Prize winners among its alumni. The CalTech-operated Jet Propulsion Laboratory was the birthplace of America's space program, and CalTech scientists were the first to report earthquake activity worldwide in the 1930s.

The residential neighborhoods in Pasadena and its adjacent communities -- Arcadia, La Cañada-Flintridge, San Marino, and South Pasadena -- are renowned for well-preserved historic homes, from humble bungalows to lavish mansions. These areas feature public gardens, historic neighborhoods, house museums, and quiet bed-and-breakfast inns.

Staying Connected

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors, these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales typically cost 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Getting Around

By Car

Need I tell you that Los Angeles is a car-crazed city? L.A. is a sprawling metropolis, so you're really going to need some wheels to get around easily (there is public transportation in L.A., but you probably don't want to rely on it). An elaborate network of well-maintained freeways connects this urban sprawl, but you have to learn how to make sense of the system and cultivate some patience for dealing with the traffic -- purchasing one of those plastic-covered fold-out maps is a smart investment; purchasing a GPS navigation system is a better one (don't count on your smartphone if you are without a co-pilot -- the hands-free driving law is strictly enforced).

Car Rentals -- Los Angeles is one of the cheapest places in America to rent a car. The major national car-rental companies usually rent economy- and compact-class cars for about $40 per day (hybrids $80-$90) and $200-plus per week, with unlimited mileage. All the major car-rental agencies have offices at the airports and in the larger hotels; I highly recommend booking a car online before you arrive, such as Simply Hybrid Rental Cars (tel. 888/359-0055; www.simplyhybrid.com) or Enterprise Rent-A-Car (tel. 800/261-7331 or 310/649-5400; www.enterprise.com).

If you're thinking of splurging on a dig-me road machine such as a Maserati, Ferrari, Rolls-Royce, Lamborghini, or Hummer, the place to call is Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car, 9732 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills (tel. 800/479-5996 or 310/337-1400; www.bhrentacar.com). There are additional locations in Hollywood, Santa Monica, LAX, and Newport Beach, with complimentary delivery to local hotels or pickup service at LAX.

L.A.'S Main Freeways -- L.A.'s extensive system of toll-free, high-speed (in theory, anyway) freeways connects the city's patchwork of communities, though most visitors spend the bulk of their time either along the coastline or on the city's ever-trendy Westside. The system works well to get you where you need to be, although rush-hour (roughly 7-9am and 3-7pm) traffic is often bumper-to-bumper, particularly on the dreaded I-405. Here's an overview of the city's main freeways (best read with an L.A. map in hand):

U.S. 101, called the Ventura Freeway in the San Fernando Valley and the Hollywood Freeway in the city, runs across L.A. in a roughly northwest-southeast direction, from the San Fernando Valley to the center of Downtown. You'll encounter heavy rush-hour traffic.

California 134 continues as the Ventura Freeway after U.S. 101 reaches the city and becomes the Hollywood Freeway. This branch of the Ventura Freeway continues directly east, through the valley towns of Burbank and Glendale, to I-210 (the Foothill Fwy.), which takes you through Pasadena and out toward the eastern edge of Los Angeles County.

I-5, otherwise known as the Golden State Freeway north of I-10, and the Santa Ana Freeway south of I-10, bisects Downtown on its way from Sacramento to San Diego.

I-10, labeled the Santa Monica Freeway west of I-5, and the San Bernardino Freeway east of I-5, is the city's major east-west freeway, connecting the San Gabriel Valley with Downtown and Santa Monica.

I-405, known as the San Diego Freeway, runs north-south through L.A.'s Westside, connecting the San Fernando Valley with LAX and southern beach areas. Tip: This is one of the area's busiest freeways; avoid it as much as possible (and like the plague during rush hour).

I-105, Los Angeles's newest freeway -- called the Century Freeway -- extends from LAX east to I-605.

I-110, commonly known as the Harbor Freeway, starts in Pasadena as California 110 (the Pasadena Fwy.); it becomes an interstate in Downtown Los Angeles and runs directly south, where it dead-ends in San Pedro. The section that is now the Pasadena Freeway was Los Angeles's first freeway, known as the Arroyo Seco when it opened in 1940.

I-710, also known as the Long Beach Freeway, runs in a north-south direction through East Los Angeles and dead-ends at Long Beach. Crammed with big rigs leaving the port in San Pedro in a rush, this is the ugliest and most dangerous freeway in California.

I-605, the San Gabriel River Freeway, runs from I-405 near Seal Beach to the I-210 interchange at Duarte. It follows the San Gabriel River (hence the moniker), roughly paralleling I-710 to the east. Most importantly, it gets you through the San Gabriel Valley up to the edge of the San Gabriel Mountains.

California 1 -- called Hwy. 1, the Pacific Coast Highway, or simply PCH -- is more of a scenic parkway than a freeway. It skirts the ocean, linking all of L.A.'s beach communities, from Malibu to the Orange Coast. It's often slow going due to all the stoplights, but is far more scenic than the freeways.

A complex web of surface streets complements the freeways. From north to south, the major east-west thoroughfares connecting Downtown to the beaches are Sunset, Santa Monica, Wilshire, Olympic, Pico, and Venice boulevards.

Freeway Names and Numbers -- Locals refer to L.A. freeways by both their numbers and their names. For example, I-10 is both "the 10" and "the Santa Monica Freeway."

L.A. Driving Tips -- Many Southern California freeways have designated carpool lanes, also known as High Occupancy Vehicle (HOV) lanes or "diamond" lanes (after the large, white diamonds painted on the blacktop along the lane). Most require two passengers (others three), and they have rigidly enforced zones where you can't leave the HOV lane for several miles at a time (I've missed many an exit because of this rule). Most on-ramps are metered during even light congestion to regulate the flow of traffic onto the freeway; cars in HOV lanes can usually pass the signal without stopping. Although there are tales of drivers sitting life-size mannequins next to them to beat the system, don't use the HOV lane unless you have the right numbers -- fines begin around $350.

Keep in mind that California has a seat-belt law for both drivers and passengers, so buckle up before you venture out.

Here are a few more tips for driving around:

• Allow more time than you think it will actually take to get where you're going. You need to make time for traffic and parking. Double your margin in weekday rush hours, from 7 to 9am and again from 3 to 7pm. Also, the freeways tend to be much more crowded than you'd expect all day on Saturdays, especially heading toward the ocean on a sunny day.
• You may turn right at a red light after stopping unless a sign says otherwise. Likewise, you may turn left on a red light from a one-way street onto another one-way street after coming to a full stop.
• Plan your exact route before you set out. Know where you need to exit the freeway and/or make turns -- especially lefts -- and merge well in advance. Otherwise, you're likely to find yourself waving at your freeway exit from an inside lane or your turnoff from an outside one. Pulling over and whipping out your map if you screw up is never easy, and it's near impossible on the freeways. Better yet, bring your smartphone and use its map app (as long as you can do it hands-free), or rent a car that has a GPS unit.
• Pedestrians in Los Angeles have the right of way at all times, so stop for people who have stepped off the curb.
• Get detailed driving directions to your hotel. Save yourself the frustration of trying to find your hotel -- plot it on a map and call the hotel for the best route.

Stay Away from Santa Monica Boulevard -- If you're driving to or from Santa Monica and the Westside communities -- Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, Century City -- try to avoid Santa Monica Boulevard during rush hour. Both Olympic and Pico boulevards parallel Santa Monica Boulevard and are usually far less congested. (Pico Blvd. is my savior.)

Parking -- Explaining the parking situation in Los Angeles is like explaining the English language -- there are more exceptions than rules. In some areas, every establishment has a convenient free lot or ample street parking; other areas are pretty manageable as long as you have a quick eye and are willing to take a few turns around the block, but there are some frustrating parts of town (particularly around restaurants after 7pm) where you might have to give in and use valet parking. Whether there's valet parking depends more on the congestion of the area than on the elegance of the establishment; the size of an establishment's lot often simply won't allow for self-parking. These days, restaurants and nightclubs rarely provide a complimentary valet service; more often than not they charge between $5 and $15. Some areas, like Santa Monica and Beverly Hills, offer self-park lots and garages near the neighborhood action; costs range from $2 to $10. In the heart of Hollywood and on the Sunset Strip, self-park lots can run up to $20. Most of the hotels that are listed in this guide offer both self-parking and/or valet parking, which ranges from $10 to $40 per day.

Here are a few more parking tips to remember:

• Beware of parking in residential neighborhoods. Many areas allow only permit parking, so you will be ticketed and possibly towed (especially in the West Hollywood and Beverly Hills neighborhoods).

• Have plenty of quarters on hand. Angelenos scrounge for parking-meter quarters like New Yorkers do for laundry coinage: They are the equivalent of pure gold. Save yourself some hassle and just buy a roll or two at your bank before you leave home. Note: More and more cities are now accepting credit cards and/or converting to centralized parking machines, but in areas with the old-style meters, many businesses maintain a no-change policy, unless you make a purchase.

• Be creative. Case the immediate area by taking a turn around the block. In many parts of the city, you can find an unrestricted street space less than a block away from eager valets.

• Read posted restrictions carefully. You can avoid a ticket if you pay attention to the signs, which warn of street-cleaning schedules and those sneaky rush-hour "no parking" zones.

• Don't lose your car in a parking garage. This seems like obvious advice, but you'd be surprised how easily you can lose your car at an L.A. megamall. Most garage levels and subsections are letter-, number-, and color-coded, so make a mental note after you lock your car.

Hogging the Roads

Instead of renting a boring ol' car to cruise the Sunset Strip, why not rent a motorcycle? Even better, why not rent a Harley? EagleRider (11860 S. La Cienega Blvd., Hawthorne; tel. 800/501-8687 or 310/536-6777; www.eaglerider.com), the world's largest motorcycle rental and tour company, will rent you a mild-mannered Sportster 883cc for about $101 per day. Leather chaps are optional, but a motorcycle license is required. Other quality L.A.-based Harley motorcycle-rental companies include Route 66 Riders (4161 Lincoln Blvd., Marina del Rey; tel. 888/434-4473 or 310/578-0112; www.route66riders.com) and Ride Free Motorcycle Tours (4848 W. 136th St., Hawthorne; tel. 310/978-9558; www.ridefree.com). Keep the rubber side down.

By Public Transportation

There are visitors who successfully tour Los Angeles entirely by public transportation (I've met them both), but we can't honestly recommend that plan for most readers. L.A. is a metropolis that's grown up around -- and is best traversed by -- the automobile, and many areas are inaccessible without one. As a result, an overwhelming number of visitors rent a car for their stay. Still, if you're in the city for only a short time, are on a very tight budget, or don't expect to be moving around a lot, public transport might be for you.

The city's trains and buses are operated by the Los Angeles County Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA; tel. 213/922-2000; www.mta.net), and MTA brochures and schedules are available at every area visitor center.

Public-Transport Tip -- The L.A. County Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) website, www.metro.net, provides all the practical information you need -- hours, routes, fares -- for using L.A.'s nearly invisible network of public transportation (buses, subways, light rail).

By Bus

Spread-out stops, sluggish service, and frequent transfers make extensive touring by bus impractical. For straight shots, short hops and occasional jaunts, however, buses are economical and environmentally correct. However, I don't recommend riding buses late at night.

The basic bus fare is $1.50 for all local lines, with transfers costing 35¢. A Metro Day Pass is $6 and gives you unlimited bus and rail rides all day long; these can be purchased while boarding any Metro Bus (exact change is needed) or at the self-service vending machines at the Metro Rail stations. Note: Up to two kids age 4 and under may travel free with each fare-paying adult.

The Downtown Area Short Hop (DASH) shuttle system operates buses throughout Downtown and Hollywood. Service runs every 5 to 30 minutes, depending on the time of day, and costs just 35¢. Contact the Department of Transportation (tel. 213/808-2273; www.ladottransit.com) for schedules and route information (it's pretty confusing -- you'll definitely need a weekday and weekend map).

The Cityline shuttle is a great way to get around West Hollywood on weekdays and Saturdays (9am-6pm). For 50¢, it'll take you from La Brea Ave. and Fountain Ave. all the way to Beverly Blvd and San Vicente Blvd area near Cedars-Sinai Hospital. For more information, call tel. 800/447-2189.

By Rail and Subway

The MetroRail system is a sore subject around town. For years, the MTA has been digging up the city's streets, sucking in huge amounts of tax money, and pushing exhaust vents up through peaceful parkland -- and for what? Let's face it, L.A. will never have New York's subway or San Francisco's BART. Today the system is still in its infancy, mainly popular with commuters from outlying suburbs. Here's an overview of what's currently in place:

The Metro Blue Line, a mostly aboveground rail line, connects Downtown Los Angeles with Long Beach. As with all other metro rail lines, it operates daily from 5am to midnight.

The Metro Red Line, L.A.'s first subway, opened a highly publicized Hollywood-Universal City extension in 2000. The line begins at Union Station, the city's main train depot, and travels west underneath Wilshire Boulevard, looping north into Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley.

The Metro Purple Line subway starts at Union Station, shares six stations with the Red Line Downtown, and continues to the Mid-Wilshire area.

The Metro Green Line runs for 20 miles along the center of I-105, the Glenn Anderson (Century) Freeway, and connects Norwalk in eastern Los Angeles County to LAX and Redondo Beach. A connection with the Blue Line offers visitors access from LAX to Downtown L.A. or Long Beach.

The Metro Gold Line is a 14-mile link between Pasadena and Union Station in Downtown L.A. Stops include Old Pasadena, the Southwest Museum, and Chinatown.

The base Metro fare is $1.50 for all lines. A Metro Day Pass is $6 and weekly passes are $20. Passes are available at Metro Customer Centers and local convenience and grocery stores. For more information on public transportation -- including construction updates, timetables, and details on purchasing tokens or passes -- call MTA at tel. 213/922-2000 or, better yet, log on to their handy website at www.metro.net.

By Taxi

Distances are long in Los Angeles, and cab fares are high; even a short trip can cost $20 or more. Taxis currently charge $2.85 at the flag drop, plus $2.70 per mile. A service charge of $2.50 is added to fares originating from LAX. Beware, there's also an additional charge of $30¢ for each 37 seconds on delay, and if you know anything about L.A. traffic, that can really add up fast.

Except in the heart of Downtown, cabs will usually not pull over when hailed. Cabstands are at airports, at Downtown's Union Station, and at major hotels. To ensure a ride, order a taxi in advance from Checker Cab (tel. 323/654-8400), L.A. Taxi (tel. 213/627-7000), or United Taxi (tel. 800/822-8294).

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

Baby Gear and Babysitters -- Babyland rents strollers, cribs, car seats, and the like from its store located at 7134 Topanga Canyon Blvd. (tel. 818/704-7849). Rates vary; expect to spend around $45 per week for strollers and $55 per week for a crib. If you need a babysitter in L.A., contact the Baby-Sitters Guild (tel. 818/552-2229 or 310/837-1800), named the city's best by Los Angeles magazine. The concierge at larger hotels can also often recommend a reliable sitter.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Responsible tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Your Travel Choice" -- at www.ecotourism.org.

Greater Los Angeles is the smoggiest region of the U.S. So if you're concerned about the size of your carbon footprint during your vacation to L.A., the single best effort you can make is to use L.A.'s public transportation system. Granted, it's an inferior and often a frustrating experience for anyone who's used to getting around via public transport in NYC, London, or Paris, but it's slowly getting better.

A more realistic alternative is to rent a hybrid car (such as a Toyota Prius). Not only will you save money on gas, but you'll be doing the local air a favor as well. In L.A., a local company called Simply Hybrid Rental Cars (tel. 888/359-0055; www.simplyhybrid.com) rents a wide range of environmentally friendly vehicles ranging from the sensible Toyota Prius to the luxurious Mercedes E320 BlueTEC. As an added bonus, it offers free vehicle delivery and pickup to and from Los Angeles International Airport, Bob Hope Airport (Burbank), Santa Monica, Brentwood, Bel Air, Westwood, Century City, Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, Hollywood, Downtown Los Angeles, Culver City, and Studio City.

Other suggestions for low-impact travel to L.A. include renting a bike to explore the beach communities, staying at eco-friendly inns such as the Ambrose hotel in Santa Monica, the Beverly Hilton, or Hotel Angeleno; and dining at restaurants with an emphasis on organic and sustainability, such as Rustic Canyon, and Inn of the Seventh Ray.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com/ to check up-to-the-minute rates.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and ATM cards. You should also have enough petty cash upon arrival to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel. You can always withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM, but you'll still need to make smaller change for tipping. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad. One way around these fees is to ask for cash back at grocery, drug, and convenience stores that accept ATM cards and don't charge usage fees (be sure to ask). Of course, you'll have to purchase something first.

The most common bills in the U.S. are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills. (The last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases.)

Coins come in seven denominations: 1¢ (1 cent, or a penny); 5¢ (5 cents, or a nickel); 10¢ (10 cents, or a dime); 25¢ (25 cents, or a quarter); 50¢ (50 cents, or a half dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.

What Things Cost in Los Angeles (in US$)

Taxi from the airport to Downtown 46.50

SuperShuttle from LAX to West Hollywood area 26.00

Fine for expired parking meter 35.00-60.00

Double room at the Beverly Hills Hotel (absurdly expensive) 530.00

Double room at the Beach House at Hermosa Beach (expensive) 229.00

Double room at the Venice Beach House (moderate) 150.00

Double room at the Sea Shore Motel (inexpensive) 110.00

Lunch for one at Cafe Pinot (moderate) 22.00

Bacon Chili Cheese Dog at Pink's 4.90

Dinner for one, without wine, at Koi (expensive) 50.00

Dinner for one, without wine, at Border Grill (moderate) 25.00

Dinner for one, without wine, at Good Stuff (inexpensive) 12.00

Cup of coffee at Philippe the Original 0.09

Cup of coffee at the Peninsula Hotel 5.75

2-hour StarLine Movie Star's Home Tour 39.00

Admission to the Hollywood Wax Museum 12.95

Admission to the Getty Museum Free

Full-price movie ticket 15.00

Tips for Travelers with Pets

If you're thinking of taking your pet along with you to romp on a California beach, make sure you do a little research. For one thing, dogs are restricted from most public beaches in the L.A. area. To find out where you can bring man's best friend, check out the online Pets Welcome service (www.petswelcome.com). The site also lists pet-related publications, medical travel tips, and resources.

A good book to carry along is The California Dog Lover's Companion: The Insider's Scoop on Where to Take Your Dog, a 900-page source for complete statewide listings of fenced dog parks, dog-friendly beaches, and other indispensable information.

Los Angeles has strict leash laws (including stiff penalties for failing to pick up waste), prompting the formation of a dog owner/supporter group called Freeplay (tel. 310/379-1207; www.freeplay.org). Contact them for the latest developments on dog-related issues, including information on off-leash parks around town.

In the event that your pet requires medical care while you're visiting, call or visit the California Animal Hospital, 1736 S. Sepulveda Blvd., stes. A-B (south of Santa Monica Blvd.), Los Angeles (tel. 310/479-3336). The Animal Surgical and Emergency Center (tel. 310/473-1561), 1535 S. Sepulveda Blvd., is open 24 hours a day. The website www.thepetplace.org is another good source for emergency animal clinics.

Getting There

By Plane

Five airports serve the Los Angeles area. Most visitors fly into Los Angeles International Airport (tel. 310/646-5252; www.lawa.org/lax), better known as LAX. This behemoth -- ranked sixth in the world for number of passengers handled -- is oceanside, between Marina del Rey and Manhattan Beach. LAX is a convenient place to land; it's within minutes of Santa Monica and the beaches, and not more than a half-hour from Downtown, Hollywood, and the Westside (depending on traffic, of course). Despite its huge size, the nine-terminal airport has a straightforward, easy-to-understand design. Free shuttle buses connect the terminals and stop in front of each ticket building. Special minibuses accessible to travelers with disabilities are also available. Call 310/646-6402 for more information. Travelers Aid of Los Angeles (tel. 310/646-2270; www.travelersaid.org) operates booths in every terminal.

There are eight short-stay (and expensive) parking lots within the main concourse building and a long-stay park on 96th Street and Sepulveda Boulevard. A free bus service runs between this car park and the terminals. A free 24-hour Cell Phone Waiting Lot is at 9011 Airport Blvd. for drivers picking up passengers. It can be very easy to miss, so keep an eye out for the big post office -- it's right next door. You can find extensive information about LAX -- including maps, parking, shuttle-van information, and links to weather forecasts -- online at www.lawa.org. All car-rental agencies are in the neighborhood surrounding LAX, within a few minutes' drive; each provides a complimentary shuttle to and from the airport.

For some travelers, one of the area's smaller airports might be more convenient than LAX. Bob Hope Airport (BUR; 2627 N. Hollywood Way, Burbank; tel. 818/840-8840; www.bobhopeairport.com) is the best place to land if you're headed for Hollywood or the valleys -- and it's even closer to Downtown L.A. than LAX. The small airport has especially good links to Las Vegas and other southwestern cities. Long Beach Municipal Airport (LGB; 4100 Donald Douglas Dr., Long Beach; tel. 562/570-2600; www.lgb.org ), south of LAX, is the best place to land if you're visiting Long Beach or northern Orange County and want to avoid L.A. John Wayne Airport (SNA; 18601 Airport Way, Santa Ana; tel. 949/252-5200; www.ocair.com) is closest to Disneyland, Knott's Berry Farm, and other Orange County attractions. Ontario International Airport (ONT; 1923 E. Avion St., Ontario; tel. 909/937-2700; www.lawa.org/ont) is not a popular airport for tourists; businesspeople use it to head to San Bernardino, Riverside, and other inland communities. However, it's convenient if you're heading to Palm Springs, and also a viable choice if you're staying in Pasadena.

By Car

Los Angeles is well connected to the rest of the United States by several major highways. Among them are I-5, which enters the state from the north; I-10, which originates in Jacksonville, Florida, and terminates in Los Angeles; and U.S. 101, a scenic route that follows the western seaboard from Los Angeles north to the Oregon state line.

If you're driving from the north, you have two choices: the quick route, along I-5 through the middle of the state; or the scenic route along the coast. Heading south along I-5, you'll pass a small town called Grapevine. This marks the start of the mountain pass with the same name. Once you've reached the southern end of it, you'll be in Canyon Country, just north of the San Fernando Valley, which is the start of Los Angeles County. To reach the beach communities and L.A.'s Westside, take I-405 south (hello, traffic!); to get to Hollywood, take California 170 south to U.S. 101 south (this route is called the Hollywood Freeway the entire way); I-5 will take you along the eastern edge of Downtown and into Orange County.

If you're taking the scenic coastal route from the north, take U.S. 101 to I-405 or I-5, or stay on U.S. 101, following the instructions above.

If you're approaching from the east, you'll be coming in on I-10. For Orange County, take California 57 south. I-10 continues through Downtown and terminates at the beach. If you're heading to the Westside, take I-405 north. To get to the beaches, take California 1 (Pacific Coast Hwy., or PCH) north or south, depending on your destination.

From the south, head north on I-5 at the southern end of Orange County. I-405 splits off to the west; take this road to the Westside and beach communities. Stay on I-5 to reach Downtown and Hollywood.

Here are some driving times if you're on one of those see-the-USA car trips: From Phoenix, it's about 350 miles, or 6 hours (okay, 7 if you drive the speed limit) to Los Angeles via I-10. Las Vegas is 265 miles northeast of Los Angeles (about a 4- or 5-hr. drive). San Francisco is 390 miles north of Los Angeles primarily on I-5 for the fastest route (6-7 hr.), and San Diego is 115 miles south (about 2 hr.).

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, you probably won't need the services of an additional automobile organization. If you plan to buy or borrow a car, automobile-association membership is recommended. AAA, the American Automobile Association (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com), is the country's largest motor club and supplies its members with maps, insurance, and, most importantly, emergency road service. Note: Foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) connects Los Angeles with about 500 American cities. As with plane travel along popular routes, fares fluctuate depending on the season and special promotions. As a general rule, heavily restricted advance tickets are competitive with similar airfares. Remember, however, that those low fares are for coach travel in reclining seats; private sleeping accommodations cost substantially more.

The Sunset Limited was Amtrak's regularly scheduled transcontinental service, originating in Florida and making 52 stops along the way as it passed through Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before arriving in Los Angeles. Unfortunately, Hurricane Katrina wiped out the Jacksonville to New Orleans section. Though it is being rebuilt, a reopening date has not been scheduled. Cross-country travel typically means a change of trains in either Chicago or New Orleans. Amtrak's Coast Starlight travels along the Pacific Coast between Seattle and Los Angeles. This stylish train (with its wonderfully scenic route) has been steadily growing in popularity.

Amtrak also runs trains along the California coast, connecting San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco (with bus connections in the case of the latter), and all points in between. Multiple trains run every day. One-way fares for popular segments can range from $25 (Los Angeles-Santa Barbara) to $31 (Los Angeles-San Diego) to $67 (San Francisco-Los Angeles); but, again, fares fluctuate.

Ask about special family plans, tours, and other money-saving promotions. You can call for a brochure outlining routes and prices for the entire system; up-to-date schedules and fares are also available on Amtrak's comprehensive -- but often unwieldy -- website (www.amtrak.com). Better yet, log on to Amtrak's California website: www.amtrakcalifornia.com. It's far more user-friendly and lists only California schedules and special fares.

The L.A. train terminus is Union Station, 800 N. Alameda St., on Downtown's northern edge. Completed in 1939, this was the last of America's great train depots -- a unique blend of Spanish Revival and Streamline Moderne architecture. From the station, you can take one of the taxis that line up outside; board the Metro Red Line to Hollywood or Universal City; or take the Metro Gold Line to Pasadena. If you're headed to the San Fernando Valley or Anaheim, Metrolink commuter trains leave from Union Station; call tel. 800/371-LINK (371-5465), or visit www.metrolinktrains.com.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15, 30, or 45 days of segmented travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. With a foreign passport, you can also buy passes directly from some Amtrak locations, including San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, Miami, Boston, and Washington, D.C., though prices are usually higher in person. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. California rail passes are also available.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Passport Offices --

• For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
• For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Gatineau, QC K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.dia.govt.nz.
• For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410.
• For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website (www.state.gov) or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042/450-100) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington(tel. 644/462-6000), or get the information directly from the website at http://newzealand.usembassy.gov.

Customs

Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 U.S. quart of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruit and vegetables is prohibited since they may harbor pests or disease. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue and Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Visitor Information

The Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau (LA INC.; tel. 800/228-2452 or 213/624-7300; www.discoverlosangeles.com) is the city's main source for information. In addition to maintaining an informative website, answering telephone inquiries, and sending free visitors kits, the bureau provides two walk-in visitor centers: Downtown at 685 S. Figueroa St. at West 7th Street (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm), and in Hollywood at the Hollywood and Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd. at Highland Avenue (Mon-Fri 10am-10 pm and Sat-Sun 10am-7pm).

Many Los Angeles-area communities also have their own information centers and often maintain detailed and colorful websites that are loaded with timely information. These include the following:

• The Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau, 239 S. Beverly Dr. (tel. 800/345-2210 or 310/248-1015; (www.beverlyhillsbehere.com), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5pm.
• The Hollywood Arts Council, P.O. Box 931056, Hollywood, CA 90093 (tel. 323/462-2355; www.discoverhollywood.com), publishes the magazine Discover Hollywood, a seasonal publication that contains listings and schedules for the area's many theaters, galleries, music venues, and comedy clubs; the current issue is always available online. You can also load up on info at the Hollywood Visitor Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., (tel. 323/467-6412), on the first level of the Hollywood and Highland mall (near the Kodak Theatre's entrance).
• The West Hollywood Convention and Visitors Bureau, 8687 Melrose Ave., M-38, West Hollywood, CA 90069 (tel. 800/368-6020 or 310/289-2525; www.visitwesthollywood.com), is located in the Pacific Design Center and is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 6pm.
• The Santa Monica Convention and Visitors Bureau (tel. 800/544-5319 or 310/393-7593; www.santamonica.com) is the best source for information about Santa Monica. The Palisades Park walk-up center is located near the Santa Monica Pier, at1920 Main St., Ste. B, Santa Monica, CA 90405.), and is open daily from 10am to 4pm. Also check out www.malibu.org for information about Malibu, to the northwest.
• The Pasadena Convention and Visitors Bureau 300 E. Green St.(tel. 626/795-9311; www.pasadenacal.com), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Local tourist boards also are great for information regarding attractions and special events, but they often fail to keep a finger on the pulse of what's "in" in L.A., especially with regard to dining, culture, and nightlife. Several city-oriented newspapers and magazines offer more up-to-date info. L.A. Weekly (www.laweekly.com), a free listings magazine, is packed with information on current events around town. It's available from sidewalk news racks and in many stores and restaurants around the city.

The Los Angeles Times "Calendar" section of the Sunday paper, a good guide to the world of entertainment in and around L.A., includes listings of what's doing and where to do it. The Times also maintains a comprehensive website at www.latimes.com/theguide/. Information is culled from the newspaper's many departments and is always up to date. If you want to check out L.A.'s most immediate news, the Times's main website is www.latimes.com.

Los Angeles magazine (www.lamag.com) is a glossy city-based monthly full of real news and pure gossip, plus guides to L.A.'s art, music, and food scenes. Its calendar of events gives an excellent overview of goings-on at museums, art galleries, musical venues, and other places. The magazine is available at newsstands around town and in other major U.S. cities; you can also access stories and listings from the current issue on the Internet. Cybersurfers can visit @ L.A.'s website, www.at-la.com; its search engine, though somewhat tedious, provides links to more than 23,000 sites relating to the L.A. area.

To read numerous blogs about the Los Angeles scene, log onto LA.COM's blog page at www.la.com/pluck/blogs. For a more esoteric array of L.A.-based blogs, try Metroblogging Los Angeles at http://blogging.la.