Planning a trip to Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) is Vietnam's commercial headquarters -- brash and busy -- with a keen sense of its own importance as Vietnam emerges from years of austerity to claim a place in the "Asian Tiger" economic slugfest. Located on the Saigon River, Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam's major port and largest city, with an estimated population of over eight million people, most of whom cruise the town's clogged arteries on an estimated three million motorbikes. True to its reputation, the city is noisy, crowded, and dirty, but the central business district is rapidly developing in steel-and-glass precision to rival any city on the globe. The old Saigon still survives in wide downtown avenues flanked by pristine colonials. Hectic and eclectic, Ho Chi Minh City has an attitude all its own.
But what are you supposed to call it? Is it Istanbul or Constantinople? Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon? After North Vietnamese victory in 1975, the first piece of legislation at the first National Assembly in 1976 saw the name change to honor the country's greatest nationalist leader. Foreign visitors, especially folks who knew the city of old or during the war years, have a hard time making the change to Ho Chi Minh City, and you'll notice that most Vietnamese people, apart from crusty cadres, usually use the old name: Saigon. To set the record straight, "Ho Chi Minh City" refers to the larger metropolitan area comprised of some 19 districts of sprawl, while "Saigon" is the name of the main commercial center -- districts 1, 3, and 5 -- and people still refer to the town as such -- like referring to New York as Manhattan.
Saigon is a relatively young Asian city, founded in the 18th century, but its history tells the story of Vietnam's recent struggles. Settled mainly by civil-war refugees from north Vietnam along with Chinese merchants, Saigon quickly became a major commercial center in the late 1800s. With a very convenient protected port along the Saigon River, the city became a confluence in Indochina for goods passing from China and India to Europe. Places like today's popular tourist stop Ben Thanh Market were abuzz with activity. When the French took over the region about that time -- in the 1880s -- they called the south "Cochin China," Annam being central Vietnam and Tonkin the north. Saigon became the capital. We owe the wide boulevards and grand colonial facades of central District 1 to years of French control and influence. After the French left in 1954, Saigon remained the capital of South Vietnam until reunification in 1975.
As the logistical base for American operations during the Vietnam War time, the city is all too familiar to the many American servicemen and women who spent time in Vietnam. Saigon is perhaps best known for its "fall," a pell-mell evacuation from the rooftop of the U.S. Embassy and the desperate last-ditch efforts of helicopter pilots to get just one more person out to the offshore U.S. carriers. The stories of that day, of divided families and the ones left behind, are heart-wrenching.
The years that followed were even bleaker, with a country feeding itself on ideology, not rice, but the progressive Doi Moi economic reforms, which opened Vietnam to foreign investment, aid, and cooperation, set the town on its feet. The city boomed for a little while in the 1990s until foreign investors were choked and bullied by bureaucracy -- many companies pulling out lock, stock, and barrel -- but FDI (Foreign Direct Investment) is returning, led mostly by Asian investors (from Japan, Korea, and China). Now the future looks bright for this burgeoning Tiger capital.
There are two distinct seasons in Saigon: The always hot (average 82°F/28°C) and rainy season lasts from May to November, the dry season from December to April.
Some of Saigon's tourism highlights include the Vietnam History Museum; the grisly War Remnants Museum; and Cholon, the Chinese District, with its pagodas and exotic stores. Dong Khoi Street -- formerly fashionable Rue Catinat during the French era and Tu Do, or Freedom Street, during the Vietnam War -- is once again a strip of grand hotels, some dating from the colonial era, new chic shops and boutiques, and lots of fine dining and cafes. Saigon's food is some of the best Vietnam has to offer, its nightlife sparkles, and the shopping here is fast and furious. The city is also a logical jumping-off point for excursions to southern destinations, including the Mekong Delta, the Cu Chi Tunnels, and Phan Thiet beach.
Getting There
By Plane
Most regional airlines connect with Ho Chi Minh City, including Malaysian Airlines, Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, Silk Air/Singapore Airlines, Lao Aviation, Garuda Indonesia, Philippine Airlines, United, and Cathay Pacific (from Hong Kong). Vietnam Airlines usually has the best fare, thanks to government controls. If you're flying to Vietnam directly from North America, check with United flights or with Cathay Pacific for good fares and itineraries. Domestically, Saigon is linked by Vietnam Airlines flights from Hanoi, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, Nha Trang, and Dalat.
At the airport in Saigon, you can change foreign currency for VND, but taxi drivers to town don't mind payment in U.S. dollars. Arranging a hotel limousine to greet you will certainly make life a bit easier, but taxis are aplenty outside the arrivals hall. You can also book a taxi at the airport taxi booth just beyond the baggage claim area; the trip to town is around 180,000 VND for a regular taxi or 200,000 VND for an SUV/van taxi. There is a small tourist information booth near the airport exit, but for now it has just a scant few hotel pamphlets. You can contact the airport lost and found at tel. 08/3844-6665, ext. 7461.
In town, the Vietnam Airlines office is at 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/3824-4482), or call their reservations office, which is at 49 Truong Son St., Tan Binh District (tel. 08/3832-0320). Just about everyone in town, from the many traveler cafes to hotel front-desk staff or concierge, can book your onward domestic flights on Vietnam Airlines.
To get to town from the Tan Son Nhat airport, taxis wait in front of the arrivals area. If you didn't book a taxi at the taxi booth , stick with established companies. For a fun ride in style, look around at the airport for the few old white Peugeot taxis that still roll around town; the price is the same, but the ride is slow and you'll feel like a khaki-clad colonial. The ride to most locations in District 1 should be no more than 90,000 VND. To get to the airport from town, contact any hotel front desk to arrange the fixed 80,000 VND fare from most locations in District 1. Departure taxes are included in the price of air tickets. Below is the contact information for all airlines in Ho Chi Minh City: Air France, 130 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-0981); Asiana Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/3822-2622); Austrian Airlines, 9 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-7117); British Airways, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1 (tel. 08/3822-2262); Cathay Pacific Airways, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/3822-3203); China Airlines, 37 Ton Duc Thanag, District 1 (tel. 08/3911-1591); China Southern Airlines, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 (tel. 08/3823-5588); Eva Air, 19 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/3822-4488); KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, 130 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/3823-1990); Korean Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/3824-2878); Lufthansa, 14/F 19-25 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-8529); Malaysia Airlines, 37 Ton Duc Thang, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-2529); Qantas, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1 (tel. 08/3930-2944); Singapore Airlines, Ste. 101, Saigon Tower Building, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/3823-1588); Thai Airways, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-2810); United Airlines, 29 Le Duan District 1 (tel. 08/3823-4755); and Vietnam Airlines, 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/3832-0320).
Warning: Scam Alert -- If you go with a taxi driver, even a metered one, from the airport in Saigon, watch out for the hotel bait-and-switch scam. Drivers get commissions for leading tourists to one hotel or another, and they commonly insist that the hotel you're going to is full, has closed, or has some other problem. The driver will pull a dour face and even sound pretty convincing as he tries to take you to his friend's hotel. Sit tight until you're at your intended destination. It might help for you to agree in writing where you're going before setting out. Important: Go with established companies when going by metered taxi (choose yellow Vina Taxi, red Saigon Tourist Taxi, or white Mai Linh Taxi), as many small operators have rigged meters.
By Bus/Minivan
Saigon is the hub of transport in the south, and all bus lines pass through here. Saigon is the terminus of the "Open Tour" Ticket for budget bus tours, and Saigon's many traveler cafes that line the streets of the Pham Ngu Lao budget travel area are your best bet for convenient onward travel by road, whether by air-conditioned bus or minivan.
Tourist buses also connect Saigon by road via the Moc Bai border crossing with nearby Cambodia. The all-day ride leaves daily in either a minibus or a large air-conditioned coach from the De Tham-area tourist cafes. From Cambodia to Saigon, contact the likes of Capitol Tours in Phnom Penh (or any other budget tour office).
Local buses are, as anywhere in Vietnam, a bit harrowing, but Saigon's bus stations are the most organized and offer myriad routes out from this central hub. Also be sure to leave from the correct bus station (there are three) for your destination.
Mien Dong Bus Station (292 Dinh Bo Linh Rd., Binh Thanh District; www.vexe24h.com) has services to the north of Vietnam, including to the Central Highlands and Phan Thiet. Mien Tay Bus Station (395 Kinh Duong Vuong Rd., Binh Tan District; tel. 08/3877-6594) serves the Mekong Delta to the south. Cholon Bus Station (84 Trang Tu Rd., District 5) connects with nearby towns in the Mekong Delta, as well as west toward Cambodia and the town of Tay Ninh.
By Car
For safety reasons alone, if you're renting a car, I suggest that you book a minivan with a tour or arrange a car with driver. Self-driving is possible, but chaotic roads and shoddy insurance can mean some major hassles. Contact any hotel front desk for arrangements. Many of Saigon's hotels are run by the massive government-run Saigontourist, and they offer lots of affordable in-town and regional tour options by private car.
By Train
Saigon is the southern terminus of the Reunification Express, Vietnam's north-south rail connection. Ga Saigon, or the Saigon station, is in District 3 at 1 Nguyen Thong St. Bookings can be made at the convenient Saigon Railway Tourist Service Co. in the backpacker area at 275C Pham Ngu Lao St. (tel. 08/3931-2828). The office is open from 7:30am to 8pm, and they're a pretty surly bunch, but you should find English-speakers in the group. Most popular from Saigon is Nha Trang (about 6 1/2 hr.; 316,000 VND), Danang (13 hr.; 665,000 VND), Hue (14 1/2 hr.; 753,000 VND), or all the way to Hanoi (31 hr.; 1,125,000 VND). Prices above are for the fastest trains and comfortable, air-conditioned sleeper berths; budget options are the hard-berth sleepers with six to a car or the masochistic hard seat. Vietnamese trains are quite efficient and a good way to meet locals.
By Boat
Check out the unique options to connect by boat from Phnom Penh or Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta. One option is the weeklong cruise between Angkor Wat and either Can Tho or My Tho in the Mekong Delta aboard one of the luxury, shallow-draft Pandaw Cruise Boats (www.pandaw.com). Shared rooms on the vessel start at $1,034. Check with budget tour cafes in your departure city.
Fast Facts
Banks & Currency Exchange -- As elsewhere in Vietnam, you can change money in banks and hotels. The exchange rate in Saigon is better than in many smaller cities.
Major banks in Saigon include ANZ Bank, 11 Me Linh Sq., District 1 (tel. 08/3829-9319); Citibank, 115 Nguyen Hue St. (tel. 08/3824-2118); HSBC, 235 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/3829-2288); and Vietcombank, 29 Ben Chuong Duong, District 1 (tel. 08/3829-7245). All offer international ATM services.
A good currency exchange is at 4C Le Loi St., right in the town center.
Western Union has a number of locations throughout the city. Their main office is at 104-106 Nguyen Hue St. (across from the Rex Hotel; tel. 08/3823-9116).
Dentists -- International SOS has a dental clinic.
Drugstores -- Vietnamese drugstores are on every street corner, and they're more or less the "prescribe it yourself" kind, whether you need antibiotics or stomach medicines.
Embassies & Consulates -- Ho Chi Minh's consulates are all in District 1, as follows: United States, 4 Le Duan St. (tel. 08/3822-9433); Canada, 235 Dong Khoi St. (tel. 08/3827-9899); Australia, 5B Ton Duc Thang St. (tel. 08/3829-6035); New Zealand, 9/F 235 Dong Skhoi St. (tel. 08/3822-6908); and United Kingdom, 25 Le Duan St. (tel. 08/3829-8433).
Emergencies -- For police, dial tel. 113; for fire, dial tel. 114; and for an ambulance, dial tel. 115. Have a translator on hand, if necessary; operators don't speak English, and for any major situation you will want to contact your country's embassy or consulate. For medical emergencies, contact one of the clinics listed under "Hospitals & International Clinics"). For an international operator, dial tel. 110.
Hospitals & International Clinics -- Saigon's large expatriate community gets sick, and when they do, they need doctoring, which means good emergency clinics are available. Any of the clinics listed below act as a general triage for emergencies and can help coordinate evacuation. They're staffed with both foreign and Vietnamese specialists.
International SOS is at 167 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., District 3. During office hours, call tel. 08/3829-8520, and in the evenings, dial their 24-hour hot line, tel. 08/3829-8424.
The Family Medical Practice is at the Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/3822-7848).
The International Medical Center (1 Han Thuyen, District 1; tel. 08/3827-2366 during office hours, tel. 08/3865-4025 for emergencies) offers services similar to what you'll find at International SOS.
Internet -- Almost every upscale hotel provides Internet services in Saigon, but they charge a pretty penny. You won't find any service on Dong Khoi, but a short walk in any direction brings you to service for an average of 200 VND per minute. Try Welcome Internet, at 15B Le Thanh Ton (tel. 08/3822-0981). Service in the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker area is fast and cheap; Internet cafes line De Tham and charge 5,000 VND to 6,000 VND per hour. Hong Hoa (185/28 Pham Ngu Lao St., 250 De Tham St., District 1; tel. 08/3836-1915; www.honghoavn.com) is exemplary of the good, affordable services on Pham Ngu Lao (dial-up, though, which makes it a little slow). Bui Vien is lined with small Internet operators (try FTC Travel; 74 Bui Vien St.; tel. 09/201-228).
Maps -- The Tourist Information Center, at 4G-4H Le Loi St., District 1 (tel. 08/3822-6033), has free detailed city maps.
Post Office -- The main post office is at 2 Cong Xa Paris, District 1 (tel. 08/3827-1149), across from Notre Dame cathedral. It's open daily from 7:30am to 8pm. Postal service is also available in most hotels and at various locations throughout the city.
Safety -- The biggest threat to your safety in Saigon is likely to be the street traffic. Cross the wildly busy streets at a slow, steady pace. If you're having a really hard time getting across, find a local who is crossing and stick to his heels!
Pickpocketing is a big problem in Saigon, especially motorbike drive-bys, with someone slashing the shoulder strap, grabbing the bag, and driving off. Keep your bag close and away from traffic. Hang on to your wallet, and don't wear flashy jewelry. Be especially wary in crowded places like markets. Women should avoid wandering around in the evenings alone past 11pm or so. Contact your consulate or your hotel if you have a serious problem. If you insist on going to the local police, bring a translator. But know that the Saigon police tend to throw up their hands at "minor" infractions such as purse snatching or thievery.
Telephone -- The city code for Saigon is 8. When dialing within Vietnam, the city code should be preceded by the 0 as indicated in the numbers listed in this guide; note that the 0 should be omitted when dialing from overseas.
Toilets -- There are no public toilets, per se. Seek out hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions.
Getting Around
By Taxi
Taxis are clustered around the bigger hotels and restaurants. They cost 10,000 VND to 15,000 VND at flag fall and 6,000 VND or so for every kilometer thereafter. Call Mai Linh Taxi (tel. 08/3925-0250), Vina Taxi (tel. 08/3815-5145), or Vinasun (tel. 08/3272-727). Stick with the larger companies listed here, as others (many with copycat names that sound similar) are famous for doctoring the meter and charging far more than the accepted price.
By Car
You can simplify your sightseeing efforts if you hire a car and driver for the day. Contact Ann Tours, Saigontourist, or any hotel concierge. Expect to pay about $30 for a day's rental with driver.
By Motorcycle Taxi
If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Saigon's crazy motorbike traffic is maddening in a car, which feels something like an elephant in a forest of buzzing mosquitoes, so a motorbike is a great way to weave through the chaos -- a quick trip is 10,000 VND for the savvy haggler (usually closer to 15,000 VND), while hourly booking can be in the ballpark of $1 per hour (don't bother with the English-speaking drivers in the Dong Khoi area who tell you that they'll be your guide for 50,000 VND per hour). A bit hair-raising sometimes, but it is a good way to get around. Ask for a helmet; most city drivers carry one in a plastic bag on the side of their bike for safety-conscious clients. Keep your knees in, and many drivers will appreciate if, when merging in traffic, you help out looking back and signaling your turn with a wave to oncoming traffic. You'll come back caked in city grime, with some good stories for friends back home.
By Cyclo
Cyclos are available for an hourly rental of about 20,000 VND, but they're simply not a good option in Saigon, especially outside District 1. First, drivers have an odd habit of not speaking English (or, indeed, any other language) halfway through your trip and taking you to places you never asked to see, or simply driving around in circles pretending to be confused. Second, riding in a slow, open conveyance amid thousands of motorbikes and cars is unpleasant and dangerous, and cyclo passengers are low to the ground and in the front, something like a bumper. A short jaunt around the Dong Khoi area or for hops between some of the city sights is memorable, but all-day cyclo tours are not recommended.
By Bicycle & Motorbike
Saigon traffic is chaos, so you might want to think twice before renting a motorbike or bicycle to get around the city on your own. Any hotel front desk can arrange rental at an inflated fee, or try the many little storefronts on Pham Ngu Lao, just west of the intersection with De Tham, where a full-day bike rental starts at $1 and a motorbike is from $5. Wear a helmet and drive slowly, staying in the middle of the herd.
Saigon's Districts
Metropolitan Ho Chi Minh City is divided into 19 administrative districts, numbered 1 through 12 and including Tan Binh, Bin Thanh, Phu Nhuan, Thu Duc, Go Vap, Binh Tan, and Tan Phu. Be sure to know the name or number of the district you need when looking for an address, and try to group your travels accordingly (you don't want to try to crisscross too many districts in 1 day). Most of the hotels, bars, shops, and restaurants are in District 1, parts of which are easily covered on foot -- though you'll want to hop a motorbike taxi or cab to cross the length of a district. District 1 is home to the central Ben Thanh Market and includes the city's most busy commercial area, Dong Khoi, as well as the backpacker district of Pham Ngu Lao. District 1 is flanked to the east and south by the Saigon River, which is where Dong Khoi Street terminates and marks the boundary of the most developed part of the city. Saigon's sightseeing attractions are spread among districts 1, 3, and 5 (Cholon). District 3 is just north and west of the central Dong Khoi area and is home to many foreign business offices and embassies. District 5 is a fair ride west of the town center and supports the city's large ethnic Chinese population, a number of older temples, and a market area.
Visitor Information
Every major tourist agency has its headquarters or a branch in Saigon. They can book tours and travel throughout the city and the southern region, and usually countrywide as well. Ann Tours, Exotissimo, and Saigontourist are upper tier. Ben Thanh Tourist and Sinh Balo are a lower range. Ann Tours is a favorite of Frommer's readers and the subcontractor of choice for many of the best international tour operators.
- Ann Tours, 58 Ton That Tung St., District 1 (tel. 08/3833-2564; fax 08/3832-3866; www.anntours.com), has a great reputation that's well deserved. Ann's specializes in custom tours for individuals or small groups. They can be relatively expensive, but that's in comparison to the seat-in-coach cattle-drive tours. These guys will help you do virtually anything you want to in Vietnam. Ask for director Tony Nong, and tell him Frommer's sent you.
Budget Tourist Cafes
Saigon's budget tourist cafes, with their many options for affordable seat-in-coach tours in the south and "open tour" bus tickets that run you along the length of Vietnam, are many and all quite similar in the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker area. Sometimes you book with one and get consolidated with another tour at another company. Same prices and services are the rule. Sinh Café is the über-cafe, but there are many others that offer much the same services, including TNK, 216 De Tham St. (tel. 08/3920-4766; www.tnktravelvietnam.com).
Sinh Café, 246-248 De Tham, District 1 (tel. 08/3837-6833; www.sinhcafevn.com), or in their newer office, Sinh Café II near the Dong Khoi area at 24-26 Pho Duc Chinh St. (tel. 08/3821-7421), is the best choice for inexpensive trips and tours. On paper, the tours seem exactly the same as others offered at private tour agents. They have computerized air booking and are quite efficient, if usually overrun with the heavy volume of Western tourists.
