
Restaurants in Rome
Although some ethnic food is available, when in Rome, it's best to eat Italian. Rome's traditional cuisine includes offal – try it in the Testaccio district. The area around Piazza Navona offers a choice of upmarket options, including the acclaimed Il Pagliaccio. For atmospheric dining, try Trastevere's osteria ...
Although some ethnic food is available, when in Rome, it's best to eat Italian. Rome's traditional cuisine includes offal – try it in the Testaccio district. The area around Piazza Navona offers a choice of upmarket options, including the acclaimed Il Pagliaccio. For atmospheric dining, try Trastevere's osterias, with paper tablecloths and wine in carafes. Last orders are at around 10.30pm. Many places close in August. A cover charge, but not service, is usually included in the bill.
Bookstore

Available as paperback
and as e-book.
-
Contemporary Roman
Ad Hoc
This romantic celebrity hangout provides privacy with its several small dining rooms, set in a lovely 16th-century building. The restaurant gets it extra virgin olive oil and ages its cheeses in caves on its estate in Subiaco, and attention to quality is apparent throughout the menu.…$$$ -
Marchigiana/Roman
Al Ceppo
The setting of this Parioli dining institution is an elegant 19th-century parlor, with dark wood furnishings, chandeliers, fresh flowers, family portraits on the walls, and an open kitchen with a wood-stoked hearth. The menu features regional dishes from the owners’ home, the Le…$$$ -
Tuscan
Al Vero Girarrosto Toscano
This classic Dolce Vita hangout has been popular with celebrities and gourmands since its opening in the ’60s. Since then, the restaurant’s praised Roman cuisine has been replaced over the years by universally acclaimed Tuscan recipes, for which it now draws the same VIP crowds and…$$ -
Roman
Alfredo e Ada
No menus here, just the waiter—and it’s usually owner Sergio explaining, in Italian, what the kitchen is preparing that day. Look for classic trattoria comfort food, like eggplant parmigiana, artichoke lasagna, excellent carbonara, or tripe. The whole place oozes character, with…$ -
Roman
Antica Hostaria Romanesca
It’s very easy to eat badly on Campo de’Fiori, which makes this authentic spot with ringside seats on the piazza such a pleasant surprise. Romanesca does dependable, old-school Roman fare at fair prices, including a gloriously juicy pollo e peperoni (stewed chicken with peppers) and…$$ -
Modern Italian
Antico Arco
This well-known address for new Italian cuisine consistently delivers exquisite dishes made with the finest local and seasonal ingredients—like wild game-stuffed tortelli with blueberries and sautéed cabbage, or duck breast with wild carrots, ginger, and plum chutney, accompanied by…$$$ -
Bakery
Antico Forno Roscioli
The Rosciolis have been running this celebrated bakery for three generations since the 1970s, though bread has been made here since at least 1824. Today it’s the home of the finest crusty sourdough in Rome, assorted cakes, and addictive pastries and biscotti, as well as exceptional…$ -
Roman/Vegetarian
Armando al Pantheon
You know you’re sure of your place in the Roman culinary pantheon (sorry, couldn’t resist) when you opt to take Saturday nights and Sundays off. Despite the odd hours and a location just a few steps from the actual Pantheon, this family-run trattoria serves as many locals as…$$ -
Pizza
Bonci Pizzarium
Celebrity chef Gabriele Bonci has always had a cult following in the Eternal City. And since he’s been featured on TV shows overseas and written up by influential bloggers, you can expect long lines at his pizzeria. No matter—it’s worth waiting (and walking 10 min. west of the…$$ -
Roman
Cacio e Pepe
This ultra-traditional trattoria, complete with paper tablecloths, a TV showing the game, the owner chatting up the ladies, and a bustling crowd of patrons waiting to be seated, is a Trastevere neighborhood stalwart. Start with cheapo plates of fried tidbits, from rice suppli to cod…$$ -
Contemporary Roman
Café Romano
The official restaurant of the posh Hotel d’Inghilterra lies on one of Rome’s “fashion streets,” a suitably upscale temple to fine dining. Chef Antonio Vitale is the current maestro, his seasonal, contemporary menus utilizing fresh produce and riffing on traditional Roman dishes.…$$$ -
Roman
Canova Tadolini
Few restaurants are as steeped in history as this place. Antonio Canova’s sculpture studio was kept as a workshop by the descendants of his pupil Adamo Tadolini until 1967, and even today it’s littered with tools and sculptures in bronze, plaster, and marble. The whole thing really…$$ -
Emiliana-Romagnola/Roman
Cesarina
Famous for its Romagna-style homemade pasta dishes, meat stews and fresh fish, this lovely old trattoria once attracted a celebrity clientele, including legendary director Federico Fellini and his wife and muse, Giulietta Masina. Today, the menu features a blend of dishes from the…$$$ -
Roman
Checchino dal 1887
Often mischaracterized as an offal-only joint, this establishment, opened in 1887 across from Rome’s now-defunct abattoir, is a special-night-out type of place, serving wonderful bucatini all’amatriciana and veal saltimbocca—as well as hearty plates of spleens, lungs, and livers.…$$$ -
Emiliana-Romagnola
Colline Emiliane
This family-owned restaurant tucked in an alley beside the Trevi Fountain has been serving traditional dishes from Emilia-Romagna since 1931. Service is excellent and so is the food: Classics include tortelli di zucca (pumpkin ravioli in butter sauce) and magnificent tagliatelle alla…$$ -
Gelato
Come il Latte
Latte is Italian for milk, and in this case, the key ingredient in this delightful little gelateria’s daily artisan production. Flavors range from salted caramel to mascarpone and crumbled cookies, espresso coffee, and rice with cinnamon; while fruit flavors rotate according to…$ -
Roman
Da Danilo
The general rule is: Don’t dine around the train station, but there are a few exceptions. Da Danilo is one of them. Popular with locals on business lunches and cucina romana pundits, this intimate trattoria offers authentic Rome and Lazio fare, made with top-notch local products.…$$ -
Roman
Da Enzo
For traditional Roman cuisine, try this down-homey, non-touristy, family-run trattoria. Cucina romana, including classic carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, win the gold, as do meat-heavy secondi like stewed tripe, or meatballs braised in tomato sauce. Local wines can be…$$ -
Roman
Da Pancrazio
At this traditional Roman restaurant, the premises almost outshine the food. The restaurant’s built over the ruins of the 1st-century b.c Theatre of Pompey (close to where Julius Caesar was infamously murdered), and its various dining rooms and spaces are decked out with charming…$$$ -
Pizza
Da Remo
Mentioning “Testaccio” and “pizza” in the same sentence elicits one typical response from locals: Da Remo, a Roman institution. In the summer especially, come early or be prepared to wait for a table. Every crisp-crusted, perfectly foldable pizza is made for all to see behind open…$ -
Roman
Da Teo
This homey and authentic neighborhood family-run trattoria serves classic Roman dishes in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Informal and welcoming, the cozy interiors with kids’ drawings on the walls, and a few outdoor tables looking out on one of Trastevere’s quaintest little…$$ -
Bolognese
Dal Bolognese
Old-school restaurant with rather stuffy service popular with business types, but definitely worth a try if you’re not heading to Bologna, Italy’s declared foodie capital. The cornerstone of any meal here should be the tagliatelle al ragù, with a rich, meaty sauce—ragù is what…$$$ -
Pizza
Dar Poeta
Ranking among the best pizzerias in Rome, “the poet” is a fine place to enjoy a classic Roman pizza margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, and fresh basil) or a more creative combo like the patataccia (potatoes, creamed zucchini, and speck, or smoked prosciutto). The lines are long to…$ -
Roman
Ditirambo
Close to Campo de' Fiori, this is the classic Roman trattoria you dream of finding but rarely do. An antiques dealer, a marketing manager, an actor, and wine merchant bonded to create this simple yet warm-hearted restaurant, a cross between an old-fashioned French bistro and a Roman…$$ -
Roman
Flavio al Velavevodetto
Flavio’s plain dining room is burrowed out of the side of Rome’s most unusual “hill”: a large mound made from amphorae discarded during the Roman era. Food-lovers, however, come here for classic Roman pastas like cacio e pepe and amatriciana, plus quinto quarto (nose-to-tail) entrees…$$ -
Modern Italian
Glass
In an industrial-chic setting of exposed brick, stark white walls, and polished floors, Michelin-starred chef Cristina Bowerman and partner Fabio Spada serve refined food using high-quality ingredients. The menu changes seasonally, but expect carefully prepared shellfish, inventive…$$$ -
Modern Italian
Il Bacaro
Romantic and low-key, Il Bacaro’s setting on a hidden backstreet near the Pantheon offers respite from the traffic and tourist crush. Insanely delicious primi and secondi (like rich panzerotti pasta with chestnuts and red wine sauce, or beef filet with gorgonzola and walnuts) are a…$$ -
International
Il Convivio Troiano
This is one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Rome. Its 16th-century building is a classic setting in pristine white with accents of wood. The Troiano brothers turn out an inspired cuisine based on the best and freshest ingredients at the market. Start with caramelized tuna fish…$$$ -
International
Imàgo
The views of Rome from this sixth-floor hotel restaurant are jaw-dropping, the old city laid out before you, glowing pink as the sun goes down. The food is equally special, as chef Francesco Apreda reinterprets Italian cuisine, borrowing heavily from Indian and Japanese culinary…$$$ -
Italian
InRoma al Campidoglio
Once a club for Rome’s film industry, InRoma sits on a cobbled lane opposite the Palatine Hill. Though the place rests heavily on its cinematic laurels, it still serves up authentic Roman and regional cuisine. Meals might start with caprese di bufala affumicata (salad of tomatoes and…$$ -
Umbrian/Modern Italian
L'Asino d'Oro
This isn’t your typical Roman eatery. Helmed by Lucio Sforza, a renowned chef from Orvieto, L’Asino d’Oro offers a seriously refined take on the flavors of central Italy without a checked tablecloth in sight; instead, the setting is contemporary with a Scandinavian feel thanks to the…$$$ -
French
L'Eau Vive
Here you'll find an elegant dining experience with unique food and atmosphere. Fine French cuisine and a daily exotic dish are prepared and served by a lay sisterhood of missionary Christians from five continents who dress in traditional costumes. We suggest you skip the plain…$$ -
Contemporary Umbrian/Roman
L’Asino d’Oro
This isn’t your typical Roman eatery. Helmed by Lucio Sforza, a renowned chef from Orvieto, L’Asino d’Oro offers a seriously refined take on the flavors of central Italy, and not a checked tablecloth in sight: the setting is contemporary with a Scandinavian feel to the light-wood…$$ -
Modern Italian
La Barrique
This cozy, contemporary enoteca (wine bar with food) has a kitchen that knocks out fresh farm-to-table fare that complements the well-chosen wine list. The atmosphere is lively and informal, with rustic place settings and friendly service—as any proper enoteca should be. The menu…$$$ -
Roman/Traditional Italian
La Campana
Family atmosphere and a classic Roman elegance permeate the spacious, well-lit rooms of this venerable address, Rome’s oldest restaurant (feeding guests since 1518!). The atmosphere is convivial yet refined, with a lovely mixture of regulars and locals. The broad selection of…$$ -
Seafood/Roman
La Gensola
Family-run and little known, this place is however considered among locals as one of the best seafood destinations in town. Warm and welcoming, like a true Trastevere home, the décor here is cozy and intimate, with soft lighting and a life-size wood-carved tree in the middle of the…$$$ -
Pizza
La Montecarlo
Dirt-cheap and immensely popular with locals, Montecarlo feels like a big party: Efficient, flirtatious servers sling piping-hot, thin-crusted pies, and the wine and beer flow freely. Sure, they serve other fare, but seriously, come for the pizza. Montecarlo’s longtime rival, the…$ -
Modern Italian/International
La Terrazza dell’Eden
This restaurant perched on the top floor of the Hotel Eden offers superb cuisine and breathtaking views that sweep from Villa Borghese all the way to St. Peter’s. Chef Fabio Ciervo offers an interesting angle on continental classics, with elegant starters like smoked lobster with…$$$ -
Pizza
Li Rioni
This fab neighborhood pizzeria is close enough to the Colosseum to be convenient, but just distant enough to avoid the dreaded “touristy” label that applies to so much dining in this part of town. Roman-style pizzas baked in the wood-stoked oven are among the best in town, with…$ -
Gourmet Market
Mercato Centrale Roma
This ambitious, three-story gourmet dining hall and street food hub is the best place to dine in Termini Station, with top-notch purveyors of everything from gourmet pizza to chocolate to truffles, plus a wine bar and a high-end restaurant. The space is inviting, if a little chaotic.…$ -
Roman/Jewish
Nonna Betta
Though not strictly kosher, this is the only restaurant in Rome’s old Jewish quarter historically owned and managed by Roman Jews. Traditional dishes include delicious carciofi alla giudia: deep-fried artichokes served with small morsels like battered cod fillet, stuffed and fried…$$ -
Modern Roman
Osteria degli Amici
This intimate osteria on the corner of nightlife central and the hill of broken amphorae, serves everything from traditional cucina romana to creative interpretations. Charming best buddies Claudio and Alessandro base their offer on fresh produce sourced at the nearby market, and the…$$ -
Modern Italian/Roman
Osteria degli Amici
On the corner of nightclub central and the hill of broken amphorae, this friendly osteria serves both traditional Roman classics and creative iterations thereof. Claudio and Alessandro base their menu on produce from the nearby market and their combined experience in famous kitchens…$$ -
Seafood/Roman
Osteria La Gensola
Considered one of the best seafood destinations in Rome, this warm and welcoming family-run restaurant feels like a true Trastevere home; decor is cozy, with soft lighting and a life-size wood-carved tree in the middle of the main dining room. Fish-lovers come for heavenly spaghetti…$$ -
Bakery
Panificio Bonci
The newest addition to the Gabriele Bonci empire is not another pizzeria but a traditional bakery, with naturally leavened bread (including seasonal delights such as pumpkin bread), cakes, cookies, croissants, and puffy pizzette with tomato sauce, sold by weight. Bonci also serves up…$ -
Pizza
Pinsere
Pinsa is an ancient Roman preparation: an oval focaccia made with a blend of four organic flours and olive oil that’s left to rise for 2 to 3 days. The result is a crispy yet feather-light single-portion snack perfect for a light lunch. This friendly, small bakery always has an…$ -
Modern Italian
Pipero Roma
Whether you’re accustomed to dining in Michelin-starred temples or it’s a once-in-a-lifetime event, consider adding Pipero to your bucket list. This long-established foodie haven has moved to chic new digs opposite the Chiesa Nuova, in a setting that’s as sophisticated as the plates…$$$ -
Pizza
Pizzarium
Known for good reason as the “Michelangelo of pizza,” celebrity chef Gabriele Bonci has always had a cult following in the Eternal City. And since he’s been featured on TV shows overseas as well as written up by influential bloggers, you can expect long lines at his hole-in-the-wall…$$ -
Modern Italian
Porto Fluviale
This multifunctional restaurant—part trattoria, part street-food stall, part pizzeria—can accommodate pretty much whatever you fancy. The decor is vaguely industrial, with a daytime clientele made up of families and white collars—the vibe gets younger after dark. From the various…$$ -
Modern Italian
Retrobottega
Fresh, modern, and progressive, the somewhat misnamed Retrobottega is a nice contrast to the well-worn streets of the touristy heart of town. This culinary laboratory, founded by four young, accomplished chefs, is an intimate but convivial choice. Most seats surround the open kitchen…$$ -
Roman/Slow Food
Ristorante Spirito DiVino
In a medieval synagogue on a 2nd-century street (which you can visit on a cellar tour), the Catalani family does exceptional modern plates (like an appetizer salad of spinach, pine nuts, pomegranate, and gorgonzola) as well as ancient Roman cuisine (like maiale alla mazio, a favorite…$$$ -
Italian
Sapori del Lord Byron
This luxe restaurant is one of the best places to go for both traditional and creative cuisine. A chichi crowd with demanding palates packs it nightly. There are places in Rome with better views, but the setting here is far more elegant, and the service impeccable. The creative menu…$$$ -
Roman
Su e Giù
The name means “Up and Down” and refers to both the dumbwaiter that the staff uses for receiving dishes from the basement kitchen and to the seating upstairs and downstairs from the main dining room. Traditional Roman dishes, such as cacio e pepe, spaghetti alla carbonara, and…$$ -
Modern Italian/Seafood
Taverna Angelica
In a sea of overpriced, touristy restaurants near St. Peter’s, Angelica serves up surprisingly good and justly priced (though not cheap) fare. Specialties include handmade pasta with crunchy bacon and leeks, a divine lime risotto with artichokes and parmesan, or grilled octopus,…$$$ -
Roman
Trattoria der Pallaro
The stern woman in white who emerges in clouds of steam from the bustling kitchen is owner Paola Fazi, who runs two simple dining rooms where value-conscious Romans go for good food at bargain prices. (She also claims -- although others dispute it -- that Julius Caesar was…$$ -
Marchigiana
Trattoria Monti
Word is definitely out on this cozy, plain-Jane trattoria near Termini station. But that just means you need to reserve in advance to sample outstanding, hearty pastas and meat and game dishes from the Marche region. You will remember the tortello al rosso d’uovo—a large, delicate…$$ -
Roman
Trattoria Perilli
Dine elbow to elbow with locals and enjoy the old-school atmosphere at this beloved institution of Roman ristorazione. With zero pretense, Perilli’s formally attired waitstaff serves unadulterated renditions of Roman classics. The dishes are reliable, from pasta standbys like…$$ -
Modern Italian
Trimani Il Wine Bar
This small bistro and well-stocked wine bar (with a 20-page wine list!) attracts white collars and wine lovers in a modern, relaxed ambience, accompanied by smooth jazz. The refined entrees might include rabbit stuffed with asparagus or Luganega sausage with a zucchini puree. The…$$ -
Roman
Vecchia Roma
This restaurant has a long pedigree, open in one form or another since 1870, with seating inside or out on the piazza in the heart of the old Jewish Ghetto. It’s essentially a Roman trattoria, with the welcome addition of a salad/antipasto bar (14 choices) in summer and hot “polenta…$$$