Planning a trip to Rome

When to Go

April to June and late September to October are the best months for traveling in Italy -- temperatures are usually mild and the crowds aren't quite so intense. Starting in mid-June, the summer rush really picks up, and from July to mid-September the country teems with visitors. August is the worst month: Not only does it get uncomfortably hot, muggy, and crowded, but the entire country goes on vacation at least from August 15 to the end of the month -- and many Italians take off the entire month. Many hotels, restaurants, and shops are closed (except at the spas, beaches, and islands, which are where 70% of the Italians head). From late October to Easter, most attractions go on shorter winter hours or are closed for renovation. Many hotels and restaurants take a month or two off between November and February, spa and beach destinations become padlocked ghost towns, and it can get much colder than you'd expect (it might even snow).

Weather

It's warm all over Italy in summer; it can be very hot in Rome. The high temperatures begin in Rome in May, often lasting until sometime in October. In Rome the weather is warm year-round, averaging 50°F (10°C) in winter.

For the most part, it's drier in Italy than in North America, so high temperatures don't seem as bad because the humidity is lower. In Rome, temperatures can stay in the 90s for days, but nights are usually cooler and more comfortable.

The average high temperatures in central Italy and Rome are 82°F (28°C) in June, 87°F (31°C) in July, and 86°F (30°C) in August; the average lows are 63°F (17°C) in June and 67°F (19°C) in July and August.

Getting Around

Central Rome is perfect for exploring on foot, with sites of interest often clustered together. Much of the inner core is traffic-free, so you will need to walk whether you like it or not. Tip: Plan ahead and wear sturdy, comfortable walking shoes. In the most tourist-trod parts of the city, walking can be challenging due to crowds, uneven cobblestones, heavy traffic, and narrow (if any) sidewalks.

All Roads Lead to . . . Piazza Venezia

Love it or loathe it, the massive Vittoriano monument at Piazza Venezia is a helpful landmark for visitors to get their bearings, and almost every bus line convenient to tourists stops here. Streets fanning out from the piazza lead to Termini Station, the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, and across the Tiber to the Vatican.

By Subway—The Metropolitana (Metro) (tel. 06-454640100) operates daily from 5:30am to 11:30pm (until 12:30am on Sat). A big red m indicates the entrance to the subway. If your destination is close to a Metro stop, hop on, as your journey will be much faster than by taking surface transportation. There are currently three lines: Line A (orange) runs southeast to northwest via Termini, Barberini, Spagna, and several stations in Prati near the Vatican; Line B (blue) runs north to south via Termini and stops in Ancient Rome; and a third, Line C (green), which is currently under construction and should be completed by 2022, will ultimately run from Monte Compatri in the southeast to Clodio/Mazzini (just beyond the Ottaviano stop on Line A). The long-delayed portion from Piazza Lodi to San Giovanni opened in May 2018.

Tickets are 1.50€ and are available from tabacchi (tobacco shops), many newsstands, and vending machines at all stations. Booklets of tickets are available at newsstands, tabacchi and in some terminals. You can also buy a pass on either a daily or a weekly basis (see “By Bus & Tram,” below). To open the subway barrier, insert your ticket. If you have a Roma Pass, touch it against the yellow dot and the gates will open. See the Metro map on the pull-out map in this guide.

By Bus & Tram—Roman buses and trams are operated by ATAC (Agenzia del Trasporto Autoferrotranviario del Comune di Roma; tel. 06-57003). For 1.50€ you can ride to most parts of Rome on buses or trams, although it can be slow going in all that traffic, and the buses are often very crowded. A ticket is valid for 100 minutes, and you can get on many buses and trams (plus one journey on the Metro) during that time by using the same ticket. Tickets are sold in tabacchi, at newsstands, and at bus stops, but there are seldom ticket-issuing machines on the vehicles themselves. Note that if you switch from a bus or tram to Metro within your 100-minute ticket time, you must revalidate your ticket before boarding the subway.

You can buy special timed passes: a 24-hour (ROMA 24H) ticket is 7€; a 48-hour ticket is 12.50€; a 72-hour ticket costs 18€; and a 7-day ticket is 24€. If you plan to ride public transportation a lot—and if you are skipping between the centro storico, Roman ruins, and Vatican, you likely will—these passes save time and hassle over buying a new ticket every time you ride. Purchase the appropriate pass for your length of stay in Rome. All the passes allow you to ride on the ATAC network, and are also valid on the Metro (subway). On the first bus you board, place your ticket in a small (typically yellow) machine, which prints the day and hour you boarded, and then withdraw it. The machine will also print your ticket’s time of expiration (“scad.”—short for scadenza). One-day and weekly tickets are also available at tabacchi, many newsstands, and at vending machines at all stations. If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing, however, the Roma Pass is a smarter choice.

Walk or Ride?
Rome is such a walkable city, one where getting there (on foot) is half the fun. And public transportation doesn’t necessarily save that much time. (For example, walking from Piazza Venezia to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere takes about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace; it takes 12 minutes via bus and tram, but that doesn’t include potential time spent waiting for the bus or tram to show up.) My take? On a nice day and for relatively short distances, enjoy the stroll. On the other hand, if you want to save your steps (maybe for a marathon tour of the Vatican Museums), then head to the nearest Metro, tram, or bus stop.

Buses and trams stop at areas marked fermata. Signs will display the numbers of the buses that stop there and a list of all the stops along each bus’s route, making it easier to scope out your destination. Digital displays at most stops show how soon the next bus or tram will arrive. Generally, buses run daily from 5am to midnight. From midnight until dawn, you can ride on special night buses (look for the “n” in front of the bus number), which run only on main routes. It’s best to take a taxi in the wee hours—if you can find one. Call for one (see “By Taxi,” below) in a pinch. Bus information booths at Piazza dei Cinquecento, in front of Stazione Termini, offer advice on routes.

Rome’s Key Bus Routes
First, know that any map of the Roman bus system will likely be outdated before it’s printed. There’s always talk of renumbering the whole system, so be aware that the route numbers we’ve listed might have changed by the time you travel. Second, take extreme caution when riding Rome’s overcrowded buses—pickpockets abound! This is particularly true on bus no. 64, a favorite of visitors because of its route through the historic districts and thus also a favorite of Rome’s pickpocketing community. This bus has earned various nicknames, including the “Pickpocket Express” and “Wallet Eater.”

Although routes may change, a few reliable bus routes have remained valid for years in Rome:

40 (Express): Stazione Termini to the Vatican via Via Nazionale, Piazza Venezia and Piazza Pia, by the Castel Sant’Angelo
64: The “tourist route” from Termini, along Via Nazionale and through Piazza Venezia and along Via Argentina to Piazza San Pietro in the Vatican
75: Stazione Termini to the Colosseum
H: Stazione Termini via Piazza Venezia and the Ghetto to Trastevere via Ponte Garibaldi

By Taxi—If you’ve reached your walking limit, don’t feel like waiting for a bus, or need to get someplace in a hurry, taking a taxi in Rome is reasonably affordable compared to other major world cities. Just don’t count on hailing a taxi on the street. Instead, have your hotel call one, or if you’re at a restaurant, ask the waiter or cashier to dial for you. If you want to phone for yourself, try the city taxi service at tel. 06-0609 (Italian only), or one of these radio taxi numbers, which may or may not have English-speaking operators on duty: tel. 06-6645, 06-3570, or 06-4994. You can also text a taxi at tel. 366-6730000 by typing the message “Roma [address]” (assuming you know the address in Italian). Taxis on call incur a surcharge of 3.50€. Larger taxi stands are at Piazza Venezia (east side), Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps), the Colosseum, Corso Rinascimento (Piazza Navona), Largo Argentina, the Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Risorgimento (near St. Peter’s), and Piazza Belli (Trastevere).

Many taxis accept credit cards, but it’s best to check first, before getting in. Between 6am and 10pm, the meter begins at 3€ (4.50€ Sat–Sun) for the first 3km (1 and 3/4 miles) and then rises 1.10€ per kilometer. From 10pm to 6am every day, the meter starts at 6.50€. Trips from Termini incur a 2€ surcharge. The first suitcase is free; every additional piece of luggage costs 1€. Note: Italians don’t tip taxi drivers like Americans do and, at most, will simply round up to the nearest euro. If the driver is really friendly or helpful, a tip of 1€ to 2€ is sufficient.

As in the rest of the world, taxi apps have caught on in Rome. The main app for official city taxis is it Taxi, which is run by Rome’s largest taxi company, 3570. It allows users to pay directly from the app using a credit card or PayPal. Popular throughout Europe, the MyTaxi app offers Uber-like convenience for ordering and prepaying a cab. Uber is currently available in Rome in a limited capacity only.

By Car—All roads might lead to Rome, but you probably won’t want to drive once you get here. If you do drive into the city, call or email ahead to your hotel to find out the best route into Rome from wherever you are starting out. You will want to get rid of your rental car as soon as possible, or park it in a garage and leave it there until you depart Rome.

If you want to rent a car to explore the countryside around Rome or drive to another city, you will save money if you reserve before leaving home. If you decide to book a car here, most major car rental companies have desks inside Stazione Termini. Note: rental cars in Italy may be smaller than what you are used to, including in terms of trunk space. Make sure you consider both luggage size and the number of people when booking your vehicle.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Laws in Italy have compelled rail stations, airports, hotels, and most restaurants to follow a stricter set of regulations about wheelchair accessibility to restrooms, ticket counters, and the like. Even museums and other attractions have conformed to the regulations, which mimic many presently in effect in the United States. Always call ahead to check on the accessibility in hotels, restaurants, and sights you want to visit.

Neighborhoods Worth a Visit

The bulk of what you’ll want to visit—ancient, Renaissance, and baroque Rome (as well as the train station)—lies on the east side of the Tiber River (Fiume Tevere), which curls through the city. However, several important landmarks are on the other side: St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican, Castel Sant’Angelo, and the colorful Trastevere neighborhood. Even if those last sites are slightly farther afield, Rome has one of the most compact and walkable city centers in Europe.

That doesn’t mean you won’t get lost from time to time (most newcomers do). Arm yourself with a detailed street map of Rome (or a smartphone with a hefty data plan). Most hotels hand out a pretty good version of a city map.

Much of the historic core of Rome does not fall under easy or distinct neighborhood classifications. Instead, when describing a location, the frame of reference is the name of the nearest large monument or square, like St. Peter’s or Piazza di Spagna. Street numbers usually run consecutively, with odd numbers on one side of the street, evens on the other. However, in centro, the numbers sometimes run up one side and then run back down on the other side (so #50 could be potentially opposite #308).

Neighborhoods

Vatican City & Prati—Vatican City is technically a sovereign state, although in practice it is just another part of Rome. The Vatican Museums, St. Peter’s, and the Vatican Gardens take up most of the land area; the popes have lived here for 7 centuries. If you plan to spend most of your time exploring Vatican City sights, or if you just want to stay outside the city center, Prati, a middle-class neighborhood east of the Vatican, has a smattering of affordable hotels and shopping streets, as well as some excellent places to eat.

Centro Storico & The Pantheon—One of the most desirable (and busiest) areas of Rome, the Centro Storico (“Historic Center”) is a maze of narrow streets and cobbled alleys dating from the Middle Ages and filled with churches and palaces built during the Renaissance and baroque eras, as well as countless hotels and AirBnB rentals. The only way to explore it is by foot. Its heart is elegant Piazza Navona, built over Emperor Domitian’s stadium and bustling with overpriced sidewalk cafes and restaurants, street artists, musicians, and milling crowds. The nearby area around the ancient Roman Pantheon is abuzz with crowds, a cafe scene, and nightlife. South of Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the lively square of Campo de’ Fiori, home to the famous produce market. West of Via Arenula lies the old Jewish Ghetto, where restaurants far outnumber hotels.

Ancient Rome, Monti & Celio—Although no longer the heart of the city, this is where Rome began, with the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Roman Forum, Imperial Forums, and Circus Maximus. This area offers only a few hotels—and, in Monti, a handful of very good restaurants. Closer to the Colosseum, many restaurants here are tour-bus traps. Just beyond the Circus Maximus, the Aventine Hill is now a posh residential quarter with great city views. For more of a neighborhood feel, stay in Monti (Rome’s oldest rione, or quarter) or Celio, respectively located north and south of the Colosseum. Both also have good dining, and Monti especially has plenty of nightlife.

Tridente & The Spanish Steps—The most upscale part of Rome, full of expensive hotels, designer boutiques, and chic restaurants, lies north of Rome’s center. It’s often called the Tridente, because Via di Ripetta, Via del Corso, and Via del Babuino form a trident leading down from Piazza del Popolo. The star here is unquestionably Piazza di Spagna, which attracts Romans and tourists alike (though mostly the latter) to linger at its celebrated Spanish Steps (just don’t eat lunch on the steps!). Some of Rome’s most high-end shopping streets fan out from here, including Via Condotti.

Via Veneto & Piazza Barberini—In the 1950s and early 1960s, the tree-lined boulevard Via Veneto was the swinging place to be, the haunt of la Dolce Vita celebrities and paparazzi. Luxury hotels, cafes, and restaurants still cluster here, although the restaurants are mostly overpriced tourist traps. To the south, Via Veneto ends at Piazza Barberini and the magnificent Palazzo Barberini, begun in 1623 by Carlo Maderno and later completed by Bernini and Borromini.

Villa Borghese & Parioli—Parioli is Rome’s most elegant residential section, a setting for excellent restaurants, hotels, museums, and public parks. Bordered by the green spaces of the Villa Borghese to the south and the Villa Glori and Villa Ada to the north, Parioli (and just to its south, Pinciano) is one of the city’s safest districts, but it’s not exactly central. It’s not the best base if you plan to depend on public transportation.

Around Stazione Termini—For many visitors, their first glimpse of Rome is the main train station and adjoining Piazza della Repubblica. There are a lot of affordable hotels in this area; while they may lack charm, the location is convenient, near the city’s transportation hub and not far from ancient Rome. Hotels on the Via Marsala side often occupy floors of a palazzo (palace), with clean and decent, sometimes even charming, rooms. Traffic and noise are worse on the streets to the left of the station. The once-seedy neighborhoods on either side of Termini (Esquilino and Tiburtino) have slowly been cleaning up, but caution is always advisable.

Trastevere—In a Roman shift of the Latin Trans Tiber, Trastevere means “across the Tiber.” Since the 1970s, when expats and other bohemians discovered it, this once-medieval working-class district has been gentrified and is now most definitely on the tourist map. Yet Trastevere retains its colorful appeal, with dance clubs, offbeat shops, pubs, and little trattorie and wine bars. Trastevere has places to stay—mostly rather quaint rentals and Airbnb’s—and excellent restaurants and bars, too. The area centers on the ancient churches of Santa Cecilia and Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Testaccio & Southern Rome—Once home to slaughterhouses and Rome’s port on the Tiber, the working-class neighborhood of Testaccio was built around one strange feature: A huge compacted mound of broken amphorae and terracotta roof tiles, begun under Emperor Nero in a.d. 55 and added to over the centuries. Houses were built around the mound; caves were dug into its mass to store wine and foodstuffs. Now known for its authentic Roman restaurants, Testaccio is also one of Rome’s liveliest areas after dark. Stay here if you want a taste of a real Roman neighborhood, but bear in mind that you’re a bus, tram, or subway ride from most touristic sights.

The Appian Way—Farther south and east, the 2,300-year-old Via Appia Antica road once extended from Rome to Brindisi on the southeast coast. This is one of the most historically rich areas of Rome, great for a day trip, but not a convenient place to stay. Its most famous sights are the Catacombs, the graveyards of early Christians and patrician families.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since 1861, Italy has had liberal legislation regarding homosexuality, but that doesn't mean it has always been looked on favorably in a Catholic country. Homosexuality is much more accepted in Rome than in the south, especially in Sicily, although Taormina has long been a gay mecca.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) links travelers up with gay-friendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco-based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers.

Calendar of Events

For major events in which tickets should be procured well before arriving, check with Keith Prowse in the United States at tel. 800/669-8687; www.keithprowse.com.

January

Epiphany celebrations, nationwide. All cities, towns, and villages in Italy stage Roman Catholic Epiphany observances. One of the most festive celebrations is the Epiphany Fair at Rome's Piazza Navona. Usually January 5 to January 6.

Festa di Sant'Agnese, Sant'Agnese Fuori le Mura. During this ancient ceremony, two lambs are blessed and shorn, and their wool is used later for palliums (Roman Catholic vestments). Usually January 21.

February

Carnevale, Piazza Navona, Rome. This festival marks the last day of the children's market and lasts until dawn of the following day. Usually 3 days before Ash Wednesday.

March

Festa di Santa Francesca Romana, Piazzale del Colosseo near Santa Francesca Romana in the Roman Forum. A blessing of cars is performed at this festival. Usually March 9.

Festa di San Giuseppe, the Trionfale Quarter, north of the Vatican. The heavily decorated statue of the saint is brought out at a fair with food stalls, concerts, and sporting events. Usually March 19.

April

Holy Week observances. Processions and age-old ceremonies -- some from pagan days, some from the Middle Ages -- are staged throughout the country. The most notable procession is led by the pope, passing the Colosseum and the Roman Forum up to Palatine Hill; a torch-lit parade caps the observance. Beginning 4 days before Easter Sunday.

Easter Sunday (Pasqua). In an event broadcast around the world, the pope gives his blessing from the balcony of St. Peter's.

Festa della Primavera, Rome. The Spanish Steps are decked out with banks of azaleas and other flowers; later, orchestral and choral concerts are presented in Trinità dei Monti. Dates vary.

May

Concorso Ippico Internazionale (International Horse Show), Piazza di Siena in the Villa Borghese. Usually May.

June

Son et Lumière. The Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Tivoli areas are dramatically lit at night. Early June to end of September.

Festa di San Pietro, St. Peter's Basilica, Rome. This most significant Roman religious festival is observed with solemn rites. Usually around June 29.

Estate Romana. The Rome Summer Festival lasts for 6 weeks of mostly outdoor shows, with an emphasis on music -- from rock to opera, from reggae to jazz. Late June to early August. For more information, check www.estateromana.comune.roma.it.

July

Festa di Noantri, Trastevere. In July, Rome's most colorful neighborhood becomes a gigantic outdoor restaurant, with tables lining the streets, and musicians providing the entertainment. Find the first empty table and try to get a waiter -- but keep an eye on your valuables. For details, contact the tourist information service run by the commune di Roma (tel. 06-0608).

August

Festa delle Catene, San Pietro in Vincoli. The chains of St. Peter are shown to the faithful during prayer. August 1.

Ferragosto. Beginning on August 15, most city residents not directly involved with the tourist trade take a 2-week vacation (many restaurants are closed as well). This is a good time not to be in Rome.

September

Sagra dell'Uva, Basilica of Maxentius, the Roman Forum. At this harvest festival, musicians in ancient costumes entertain, and grapes are sold at reduced prices. Dates vary, usually early September.

December

Christmas Blessing of the Pope. Delivered at noon from the balcony of St. Peter's Basilica, the pope's words are broadcast around the world. December 25.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all of the major U.S. airlines except America West have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people 60 and over qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons; tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. Whether or not they end up being better than the regular discounts is an open question. Always do your research before buying.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted General Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. Sometimes they're a good value, sometimes not, but don't believe anyone who tells you they will be the least costly way to see Rome or Italy. Independent travelers can always beat the prices of tour operators. Their biggest selling point, in our opinion, is their convenience. All you have to do is sign up, and the important choices will be made for you: hotels, sightseeing, and sometimes even meals.

The biggest operator of escorted tours to Italy is Perillo Tours (tel. 800/431-1515; www.perillotours.com), family operated for three generations. Since it was founded in 1945, it has sent more than a million travelers to Italy on guided tours. Accommodations are in nice hotels, and tour directors are well-trained. As with many other companies, the individual day tour guides will usually be whoever is available from a pool of city guides (meaning your day trips could be identical to those being enjoyed by guests of Trafalgar, Cosmos, Globus and Insight Vacations).

Trafalgar Tours (tel. 866/544-4434; www.trafalgartours.com) is one of Europe's largest tour operators, offering affordable guided tours with lodgings in unpretentious hotels.

One of Trafalgar's leading competitors is Globus+Cosmos Tours (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusandcosmos.com). Globus has first-class escorted coach tours of various regions lasting from 8 to 16 days. Cosmos, a budget branch of Globus, sells escorted tours of about the same length. Tours must be booked through a travel agent, but you can call the 800 number for brochures. Another competitor is Insight Vacations (tel. 888/680-1241; www.insightvacations.com), which books fully escorted motorcoach tours lasting from 1 week to a 36-day grand tour.

To quickly compare the offerings of tour operators to Italy, and around the globe, look at such marketplace websites as TourRadar and StrideTravel. Both websites compare prices for individual tours, show what is and isn't included, and surfare user reviews.

Tips on Accommodations

Rental apartments have some great virtues: They’re often cheaper than standard facilities, and they let you save money by preparing at least some of your own meals.
Nearly every vacation rental in Rome—and there are tens of thousands of them—is owned and maintained by a third party (that is, not the rental agency). That means that the decor and flavor of the apartments, even in the same price range and neighborhood, can vary widely. Every reputable agency, however, puts multiple photos of each property they handle on its website, so you’ll have a sense of what you’re getting into. The photos should be accompanied by a list of amenities. Goliath booking sites Airbnb.com, Homeaway.com, and vrbo.com, platforms that allow individuals to rent their own apartments to guests, have thousands of listings in Rome. These will often be cheaper than apartments rented through local agencies, but they won’t be vetted, and sometimes you’re on your own if something goes wrong.

If you decide to rent through one of the agencies below, know that its standard practice for them to collect 30% of the total rental amount upfront to secure a booking. When you get to Rome and check in, the balance of your rental fee is often payable in cash only. Upon booking, the agency should provide you with detailed check-in procedures. Tip: Make sure you ask for a few numbers to call in case of emergency. Most apartments come with information sheets that list neighborhood shops and services.

Recommended Agencies

Cross Pollinate (www.cross-pollinate.com; tel. 06-99369799), a multi-destination agency with a roster of apartments and B&Bs in Rome, was created by the American owners of the Beehive Hotel in Rome. Each property is inspected before it gets listed. GowithOh (www.gowithoh.com; tel. 800/567-2927 in the U.S.) is a hip rental agency that covers 12 European cities, Rome among them. Eats & Sheets (www.eatsandsheets.com; tel. 06-83515971) is a small boutique collective comprising a B&B and a handful of beautiful apartments near the tourist center. The plain-dealing staff of Cities Reference (www.citiesreference.com/en/rome; tel. 06-48903612) offers no-surprises property descriptions (with helpful and diplomatic tags like “better for young people”) and even includes the “eco-footprint” for each apartment. Rental in Rome (www.rentalinrome.com; tel. 06-3220068) has an alluring website—with video clips of the apartments—and the widest selection of midrange and luxury apartments in the centro storico zone (there are less expensive ones, too).

Monasteries & Convents

Staying in a convent or a monastery can be a great bargain. But remember, these are religious houses, which means the decor is most often stark and the rules inflexible. Cohabitating is almost always frowned upon—though marriage licenses are rarely required—and unruly behavior is not tolerated (so, no staggering in after too much limoncello at dinner). Plus, there’s usually a curfew. Most rooms in convents and monasteries do not have private bathrooms, but ask when making your reservation in case some are available. However, if you’re planning a mellow, “contemplative” trip to Rome, and you can live with these parameters, convents and monasteries are an affordable and fascinating option. The place to start is www.monasterystays.com, which lays out all your monastic options for the Eternal City.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit -- in this case Rome. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people, the Romans themselves. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

If all roads lead to Rome, why not take the green one?
Minimize environmental impact.
Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
Support international human rights and labor agreements.
Not long ago, the mayor of Rome unveiled a master plan to turn the Eternal City into a green, low-carbon, post-petroleum capital. The plan, one of the most ambitious ever for the city, calls for Rome to invest more than $615 million (U.S.) over the next 2 decades in new business and clean industries. This move, when carried out, will result in thousands of new jobs and also make the capital more independent of fossil fuels.

"This is a complete plan to transform Rome," said former Mayor Gianni Alemanno. "It's more than an energy plan. It is also an environmental, urban, and economic one."

Plans call for three main areas of development:

1. Turning the congested historic core of Rome into a greener, pedestrian-friendly space;

2. Developing the commercial and industrial "ring" around Rome; and

3. Improving the agriculture districts outside Rome to reduce carbon imprint.

Rome also has a new event on its calendar every September known as Zeromission Rome, an event dedicated to promoting renewable energies in the Mediterranean area.

Speakers from all over the world fly into Rome at this time for numerous conferences, workshops, and meetings, each dedicated to renewable energy and global warming.

In this ever-changing world, highlights of the upcoming convention will focus on electricity from wind energy, photovoltaic technologies, solar power plants, geothermal energy, energy saving, the carbon credit market, and other 21st-century technologies to save not only Rome, but the planet itself.

The new emphasis on Green Rome is seen in modern developments such as the new stadium of the Rome Soccer Club launched in 2009. The stadium has become energy self-sufficient thanks to the use of a photovoltaic system and to micro-generation. The designers of the stadium implemented plans that eliminate greenhouse gases at the rate of 3,000 tons a year, an amazing figure.

Even Rome's largest public hospital, Policlinico Umberto I, has become more eco- and user-friendly by installing a solar-powered recreational pavilion that was formerly the waiting room. Today, the pavilion has been called a place where the "Alice in Wonderland mushroom meets solar-ray chomping Pac-Man."

Eden Walks (tel. 039/338-596-1622; www.edenwalks.com) is a pioneer of eco-conscious walking tours through both historical Rome and the Vatican. It offers three "low-impact" tours of Rome. Well-trained English-speaking guides take you on tours through history. Although group tours are offered, the Eden walks also features a number of 2-hour tours (maximum 4 people), costing 200€.

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel in Rome or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel to Rome:
- Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org) and Carbon Neutral (https://coolclimate.org).
- Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.
- Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question whether sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements.
- At hotels in Rome, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.
- Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.
- If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.
- Eat at Roman owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

U.S., Canadian, U.K., Irish, Australian, and New Zealand citizens with a valid passport don't need a visa to enter Italy if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work there. If after entering Italy you want to stay more than 90 days, you can apply for a permit for an extra 90 days, which, as a rule, is granted immediately. Go to the nearest questura (police headquarters) or to your home country's consulate. If your passport is lost or stolen, head to your consulate as soon as possible for a replacement.

Traveling with Minors

It's always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling in today's world with children. For changing details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, keep up to date by going to the U.S. State Department website: http://travel.state.gov.

To prevent international child abduction, E.U. governments have initiated procedures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring documentary evidence of your relationship with your child and permission for the child's travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. All children must have their own passports. To obtain a passport, the child must be present -- that is, in person -- at the center issuing the passport. Both parents must be present as well. If not, then a notarized statement from the parents is required.

Any questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling the National Passport Information Center at tel. 877/487-6868 Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm Eastern Standard Time.

Customs Regulations

What You Can Bring into Italy -- Foreign visitors can bring along most items for personal use duty-free, including fishing tackle, a pair of skis, two tennis racquets, a baby carriage, two hand cameras with 10 rolls of film, and 400 cigarettes or a quantity of cigars or pipe tobacco not exceeding 500 grams (1.1 lb.). There are strict limits on importing alcoholic beverages. However, for alcohol bought tax-paid, limits are much more liberal than in other countries of the European Union.

There are no restrictions on the amount of local currency you can bring into Italy, although you should declare the amount. Your declaration proves to the Italian Customs office that the currency came from outside the country, and, therefore, you can take out the same amount or less. Foreign currency taken into or out of Italy may not exceed 12,500€. No declaration is needed up to this amount.

What You Can Take Home from Italy -- Rules governing what you can bring back duty-free vary from country to country and are subject to change, but they're generally posted on the Web. Anyone caught buying counterfeit products can be fined up to 10,000€.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back, go to www.cbp.gov.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or consult at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: For info go to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered by the New Zealand Customs Service (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Staying Connected

To call Italy from the United States, dial the international prefix, 011; then Italy's country code, 39; and then the city code (for example, 06 for Rome and 055 for Florence), which is now built into every number. Then dial the actual phone number.

To call from one city code to another, dial the city code, complete with initial 0, and then dial the number. (Numbers in Italy range from four to eight digits. Even when you're calling within the same city, you must dial that city's area code -- including the zero. A Roman calling another Rome number must dial 06 before the local number.)

To dial direct internationally, dial 00 and then the country code, the area code, and the number. Country codes are as follows: the United States and Canada, 1; the United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64. Make international calls from a public phone, if possible, because hotels charge inflated rates for direct dial -- but bring plenty of schede (change). A reduced rate is applied from 11pm to 8am on Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday. Direct-dial calls from the United States to Italy are much cheaper, so arrange for whomever to call you at your hotel.

To call the national or international telephone information (in Italian) in Italy, dial tel. 1254.

WiFi

All hotels, many cafes, and some retailers offer free Wi-Fi to their patrons as a standard amenity.

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

In general, Rome is viewed as a fairly "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots, most foods are safe, and the water in Rome is potable. It is easy to get a prescription filled, and Rome has English-speaking doctors at hospitals with well-trained medical staffs.

Vegetarians can go into almost any restaurant in Rome, even those specializing in meat and fish, and order a heaping plate of fresh antipasti made with fresh vegetables.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet. In some, but not all, cases your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.

Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening. You may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a Medic Alert Identification Tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through Medic Alert's 24-hour hot line.

Keep prescription medications in their original containers, and pack them in your carry-on luggage. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

And don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (tel. 404/373-8280; www.istm.org).

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

- Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au
- Canada: www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/tmp-pmv
- U.K.: www.nhs.uk/nhsengland/healthcareabroad/pages/healthcareabroad.aspx

Safety

The most common menace, especially in large cities, particularly Rome, is the plague of pickpockets and roving gangs of Gypsy children who surround you, distract you in all the confusion, and steal your purse or wallet. If accosted by a group of children, even though they're children, don't be polite. Never leave valuables in a car, and never travel with your car unlocked. A U.S. State Department travel advisory warns that every car (whether parked, stopped at a traffic light, or even moving) can be a potential target for armed robbery. In these uncertain times, it is always prudent to check the U.S. State Department's travel advisories at http://travel.state.gov.

Visitor Information

On the Web, the Italian National Tourist Board sponsors the sites www.italiantourism.com and www.enit.it.

For information on the Vatican, check out www.vatican.va.

In Italy not only contains solid information on Italy and Rome presented in a very personal and friendly way, but it also has one of the best sets of links to other Italy-related sites on the Web.

Another helpful site is www.rome.info.

Information, maps, and the Roma Pass are available at 11 Tourist Information Points maintained by Roma Capitale around the city. Bizarrely, each kiosk keeps its own hours and none are exactly the same. But you can reliably find them open after 9:30am and at least until 6pm (some stay open later). The one at Termini (daily 8am–6:45pm), located in Building F next to platform 24, often has a long line; if you’re staying near other offices listed here, skip it. See the Turismo Roma website for the locations of additional information points.

Roma & Omnia Passes

If you plan to do serious sightseeing in Rome (and why else would you be here?), the Roma Pass is worth considering. For 38.50€ per card, valid for 3 days, you get free entry to the first two museums or archaeological sites you visit; “express” entry to the Colosseum; discounted entry to all other museums and sites; free use of the city’s public transport network (bus, Metro, tram, and railway lines; airport transfers not included); a free map; and free access to a special smartphone app with audioguides and interactive maps.

If your stay in Rome is shorter, you may want to opt for the Roma Pass 48 Hours (28€), which offers the same benefits as the 3-day pass, except that only the first museum you visit is free and the ticket is valid for just 48 hours.

The free transportation perk with the Roma Pass is not insignificant, if only because it saves you the hassle of buying paper tickets. In any case, do some quick math; one major museum or attraction entrance is 12€–15€, and each ride on public transportation is 1.50€. Discounts to other sites range from 20–50%. If you plan to visit a lot of sites and dash around the city on public transport, it’s probably worth the money.

A glaring disadvantage of the Roma Pass is that it does not include access to the Vatican Museums or the paid areas of St. Peter’s. That’s where the Omnia Card comes to the rescue. The 72-hour card combines all the benefits of the Roma Pass with skip-the-line entry to the Vatican Museums, an audioguide to St. Peter’s, a hop-on-hop-off bus pass, and admission to other Vatican properties. At 113€ it’s an investment, but worth it if you want to take in all the heavy hitters of Rome and the Vatican. The pass can be purchased online and picked up at Largo Argentina, St Peter’s Square, or the Basilica of Saint John Lateran.

You can buy Roma passes online and pick them up at one of the city’s Tourist Information Points (INFOPOINTS); you can also order in advance by phone, with a credit card, at tel. 06-060608. Roma Passes are also sold directly at Tourist Information Point offices or at participating museums and ATAC subway ticket offices.

Money

The Italian lire disappeared into history on March 1, 2002, replaced by the euro, the single European currency, whose official abbreviation is "EUR." Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

Money & Costs

Frommer's lists prices in local currency.

Exchanging Money & ATMS

Exchange rates are more favorable at the point of arrival though be careful about using airport ATM machines, as many are owned by exchange bureaus and give a less than favorable exchange rate. Instead, change just a small amount of money at the airport, and then use your ATM card once you're in the city. It will give you a better exchange rate than you'd get exchanging cash at an exchange bureau. ATMS are known as Bancomats in Italy. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on; then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Never ask for a cash advances on your credit card at an ATM; you will be hit with crazy-high fees and often, a high interest rate. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside the home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges.

Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don't become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and block your charges. Even if you don't call your credit card company in advance, you can always call the card's toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused -- a good reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip; a card might not work for any number of reasons, so having a backup is the smart way to go.

Fast Facts

Banks—In general, banks are open Monday to Friday 8:30am–1:30pm and 2:30–4pm. Note that many banks do not offer currency exchange.

Business Hours—Most Roman shops open at 10am and close at 7pm from Monday to Saturday. Smaller shops close for 1 or 2 hours at lunch, and may remain closed Monday morning and Saturday afternoon. Most restaurants are closed for riposo (rest) 1 day per week, usually Sunday or Monday.

Dentists—American Dental Arts Rome, Via del Governo Vecchio 73 (near Piazza Navona; tel. 06-6832613), uses the latest technology.

Doctors—Call the U.S. Embassy at tel. 06-46741 for a list of English-speaking doctors. You’ll find English-speaking doctors at the privately run Salvator Mundi International Hospital, Viale delle Mura Gianicolensi 67 (in the Gianicolo neighborhood; tel. 06-588961); or at the Rome American Hospital, Via Emilio Longoni 69 (tel. 06-22551), located well east of central Rome. The International Medical Center is on 24-hour duty at Via Firenze 47 (near Piazza della Repubblica; tel. 06-4882371). Medi-Call Italia, Via Cremera 8 (tel. 06-8840113) can arrange for a qualified doctor to make a house call at your hotel or anywhere in Rome.

Emergencies—To call the police, dial tel. 113; for an ambulance tel. 118; for a fire tel. 115.

Newspapers & Magazines—The English-language expat magazine Wanted in Rome comes out every 2 weeks and lists current events and shows. Time Out also has a Rome edition.

Pharmacies—Farmacie, recognizable by their neon green or red cross signs, are generally open 8:30am–1pm and 4–7:30pm, though some stay open later. Farmacia Piram at Via Nazionale 228 is open 24 hours. All closed pharmacies have signs in their windows indicating any open pharmacies nearby.

Police—Dial tel. 113.

Safety—Violent crime is virtually nonexistent in Rome’s touristed areas, though pickpocketing is common. Purse snatching happens on occasion, by young men speeding by on scooters; keep your purse on the wall side of your body with the strap across your chest. Always be suspicious of anyone who tries to “befriend” you in a tourist area. Walking alone at night is usually fine anywhere in the centro storico.

Getting There

By Plane—Most flights arrive at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (tel. 06-65951), popularly known as Fiumicino, 30km (19 miles) from the city center. (If you’re arriving from other European cities, you might land at Ciampino Airport, discussed below.) After you leave Passport Control, you'll see a tourist information desk, staffed Monday through Saturday from 8:15am to 7pm. A cambio (money exchange) operates daily from 7:30am to 11pm, but it's just as easy, and possibly less expensive, to withdraw cash from an ATM (bancomat) in the airport.

Train or Taxi?
Whether to take the airport shuttle train or a taxi into Rome from FCO depends on your budget and your tolerance for schlepping. If you’re traveling solo and/or traveling light, the train is the most economical option for getting into the city, and takes about the same time as a taxi. If you’ve got a lot of bags, however, bear in mind that the train is a long walk from the arrivals terminal—and that, once your train arrives at Termini station, you’ll still have to walk, or take Metro, bus, or taxi, to your final destination. Bottom line? If there are three or more in your party or you’re carrying lots of luggage, go for a taxi.

Follow signs marked TRENI to find the airport train station, about a 10-minute walk from the arrivals area. From there, catch the delightfully named Leonardo Express for a 31-min. shuttle ride) to Rome’s main station, Stazione Termini. The shuttle runs every 15 minutes (every 30 min. at off-peak hours) from 6:08am to 11:23pm for 14€ one-way (free for kids 12 and under). On the way to the train, you’ll pass a yellow machine dispensing tickets (cash or credit), or you can buy them at the Trenitalia window near the tracks. You can also buy e-tickets or use the Trenitalia mobile app.

A taxi from da Vinci airport to the city costs a flat-rate 48€ for the 45-minute to 1-hour trip, depending on traffic (hotels tend to charge 50€–60€ for pickup service). Note that the flat rate is applicable from the airport to central Rome and vice-versa, but only if your central Rome location is inside the Aurelian Walls (most hotels are). Otherwise, standard metered rates apply, which can bump the fare to 75€ or higher. There are also surcharges for large luggage, Sunday and holiday rides, and more than 4 passengers.

If you arrive instead at Ciampino Airport (tel. 06-65951), you can take a Terravision bus (tel. 06-894239) to Stazione Termini. Trip time is about 45 minutes and costs 4€. A taxi from Ciampino costs a flat rate of 30€, provided you’re going to a destination within the old Aurelian Walls.

From either airport, ride-sharing service Uber is available—sort of. Because of licensing laws (and strong resistance from Rome’s taxi drivers), only Uber Black or Uber Van service is offered, and it’s much more expensive than a taxi. If you want Uber-like convenience and in-app payments, consider the MyTaxi app, available for iPhones or Androids.

By Train or Bus—Trains and buses (including trains from the airport) arrive in the center of old Rome at Stazione Termini, Piazza dei Cinquecento. This is the train, bus, and transportation hub for all of Rome, and it is surrounded by many hotels, especially budget ones.

The station is filled with services. A money exchange window is located close to the end of platform 14, and an ATM is at the end of platform 24. Informazioni Ferroviarie (in the outer hall) dispenses info on rail travel to other parts of Italy. There is also a tourist information booth, plus baggage services, newsstands, clean public toilets (they cost 1€, and snack bars. Tip: Be wary of young people lingering around ticket machines offering to help you. They will expect a tip. At worst, they will be distracting you so that an accomplice can pick your pocket.

To get from Termini to your final destination in Rome, you have several options. If you’re taking the Metropolitana (subway), follow the illuminated red-and-white M signs. To catch a city bus, go straight through the outer hall and enter the sprawling bus lot of Piazza dei Cinquecento.

You will also find a line of taxis parked out front. Note that taxis now charge a 2€ supplement for any fares originating at Termini, plus 1€ for each bag in the trunk. Use the official taxi queue right in front of the station; don’t go with a driver who approaches you, and don’t get into any cab where the meter is “broken.”

By Car—From the north or south, the main access route is the Autostrada A1. This highway runs from Milan to Naples via Bologna, Florence, and Rome. At 754km (469 miles), it is the longest Italian autostrada and is the “spinal cord” of Italy’s road network. All the autostrade join with the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), a ring road encircling Rome, channeling traffic into the congested city. Tip: Long before you reach the GRA, you should study your route carefully to see what part of Rome you plan to enter. Route signs along the ring road tend to be confusing.

Warning: If you must drive a car into Rome, return your rental car immediately on arrival, or at least get yourself to your hotel, park your car, and leave it there until you leave the city. Seriously think twice before driving in Rome—the traffic, as well as the parking options, are nightmarish. Plus most of central Rome is a ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato), off-limits to nonresidents and rigorously enforced by cameras. You will almost certainly be fined; the ticket might arrive at your home address months after your trip.