Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Hong Kong may be crowded, but it's remarkably clean compared to many other major Asian cities. That said, Hong Kong's most pressing environmental concern is air pollution, which has gotten progressively worse over the years, fueled largely by factories just over the border in mainland China and local vehicular traffic. In fact, pollution is sometimes so bad, that even a cloudless day can't guarantee that views will be good from atop Victoria Peak. The euphemism used in weather reports is "haziness." To learn more about grassroots efforts to improve the air, check out the websites www.cleartheair.org.hk and www.hongkongcan.org.

In any case, to ensure that you're not contributing to the global problem, try to choose a nonstop flight to Hong Kong, since it generally requires less fuel than an indirect flight that stops and takes off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.

In Hong Kong, use public transport where possible -- Hong Kong's trains, trams, buses, and ferries are more energy-efficient forms of transport than taxis. Even better is to walk; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy.

Where you stay during your travels can also have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. Luckily, Hong Kong hotels are becoming increasingly environmentally aware. The InterContinental Grand Stanford, for example, has been a pioneer in green management practices; in 2007 it became the first hotel in Hong Kong to install a more efficient and environmentally friendly new hybrid fuel system for hot water and steam that reduces temperatures around the hotel and is equivalent to taking 70 cars a year off the road. The Eaton Hotel not only employs a full-time environmental manager responsible for monitoring environmental and social performance, but also has an in-house green team, recycles everything from plastic bottles and aluminum to office paper, and provides staff community service (it even used old banquet tablecloths to make restaurant place mats). Finally, to do your part, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner when you leave your room.

As for dining, try to eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area, like Posto Pubblico. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances. You might also want to patronize restaurants that donate leftover food to food pantries, such as Pret A Manger and restaurants in the Eaton Hotel. And when shopping, keep in mind that you'll pay HK10¢ for each plastic bag you need at supermarkets, convenience stores, and health and beauty stores; to cut down on unnecessary plastic and to save a little money, bring your own bag.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. The Hong Kong YWCA, 1 MacDonnell Rd., Central (tel. 852/3476 1340; www.esmdywca.org.hk), serves as a local clearinghouse for volunteer opportunities under its "News & Events" button. Although directed toward local residents, some of the volunteer opportunities are short term. The website also offers a variety of courses, including classes for Cantonese, Mandarin, and cooking, open to both YWCA members and nonmembers.

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. To participate in ethical tourism at a local level, your best bet in Hong Kong is in the village of Tai O on Lantau Island.

Resources for Responsible Travel

In addition to the resources for Hong Kong listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

Tips for Families

Hong Kong is a great place for older kids, since many of the attractions are geared toward them and even offer discounts for children, sometimes as much as 50%. Public transportation is half price for children. As for very young children, keep in mind that there are many stairs to climb, particularly in Central with its elevated walkways, and in subway stations, making child backpack carriers easier than strollers. Also, young children may not be welcome at finer restaurants.

Many hotels allow children under a certain age (usually 11 and under but occasionally up to 18) to stay free of charge in their parent's room. Generally, only one child is allowed, or there's a maximum limit of three people per room, and no extra charge only when no extra bed is required. Baby cots are usually free of charge, and many hotels also offer babysitting for a hefty fee.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout dozens of other countries worldwide.

Using your own mobile phone in Hong Kong is easy, as most of the telephone systems used around the world (such as GSM 900/1800/2100, PCS 1800, CDMA, and WCDMA) are operational in Hong Kong. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls in Hong Kong. Mobile operators in Hong Kong, such as CSL (tel. 852/2751 0000 or *CSL from a mobile phone logged on to the CSL network; www.hkcsl.com), have roaming agreements with most overseas operators, enabling visitors to use their own phones in Hong Kong. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Be sure to cancel any call-forwarding options to avoid extra roaming charges. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high, so ask about pricing before you leave.

It is more economical to buy a removable computer memory phone chip (called a SIM card), which allows you to make calls at local rates. Cheap, prepaid SIM cards are sold at retailers throughout Hong Kong, including 7-Eleven convenience stores. CSL (tel. 852/179 179; http://one2free.hkcsl.com) offers the Power Prepaid SIM Card for HK$88, with local calls costing HK10¢ a minute and international calls to 30 destinations (including the U.S., Canada, U.K., Australia, and New Zealand) costing HK18¢ a minute to land lines (calls to cellphones cost more). It's sold at 1010 Centres throughout Hong Kong, including Century Square, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central (tel. 852/2918 1010), and China Hong Kong Centre, 122-126 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2910 1010), as well as 7-Eleven and Circle K convenience stores.

Similarly, PCCW (tel. 852/1000; www2.pccwmobile.com), another local company, offers a variety of prepaid, rechargeable SIM cards, including cards for HK$48 and HK$78, with local calls costing HK12¢ during peak hours from noon to 9pm and HK6¢ at other times; calls to North America cost HK$1.60 per minute. PCCW's "All-in-1" Communications SIM Card, costing HK$98 but with HK$150 worth of stored value, enables tourists to make local calls for HK30¢ per minute and also provides access to PCCW's Wi-Fi hot spots throughout Hong Kong. A convenient shop is located at 118 Queen's Road Central, Central (tel. 852/2888 3326).

Renting a mobile phone is another option. Many upper- and medium-range hotels offer rental phones at their business centers, though it's an expensive convenience (the more expensive the hotel, the more expensive the rental). It's better to rent from a local company. CSL (tel. 852/2883 3938; http://roam.hkcsl.com/eng/rent/rent.htm) offers phones for HK$35 a day, plus a refundable deposit of up to HK$500. But you must still buy a SIM card as outlined above.

Newspapers & Magazines

The South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com) and the Standard (www.thestandard.com.hk) are the two local English-language daily newspapers. The South China Morning Post is often delivered to guest rooms free or available for purchase at the front desk or hotel kiosk, at newsstands, and bookstores. The Standard is free. For a different perspective, you might also want to pick up the China Daily, from Beijing (www.chinadaily.com.cn). The Asian Wall Street Journal, Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, and USA Today International are also available, as are news magazines like Time and Newsweek.

Telephones

To call Hong Kong: The international country code for Hong Kong is 852. Therefore, to call Hong Kong:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code: 852.

3. Then dial the number (there is no city code for Hong Kong). So, the whole number you'd dial from the U.S. would be 011-852-0000 0000.

Domestic Calls: In Hong Kong, local calls made from homes, offices, shops, restaurants, and some hotel lobbies are free, so don't feel shy about asking to use the phone. Otherwise, local calls from public phones, which accept HK$1, HK$2, HK$5, and HK$10 coins, cost HK$1 for each 5 minutes; from hotel rooms, it's about HK$4 to HK$5.

To Make International Calls: To make international calls from Hong Kong, first dial tel. 001 (or 0080 or 009, depending on which competing telephone services you wish to use) and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code and number.

For Directory Assistance in English: Dial tel. 1081 if you're looking for a number inside Hong Kong, or tel. 10013 for numbers to all other countries.

For Collect Calls: To make a collect call from any public or private phone in Hong Kong, dial tel. 10010.

Toll-Free Numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 within Hong Kong are toll-free. However, calling a toll-free number to a foreign country from Hong Kong is not free but rather costs the same as an overseas call.

Most hotels in Hong Kong offer direct dialing. Otherwise, long-distance calls can be made from specially marked International Dialing Direct (IDD) public phones. The most convenient method of making international calls is to use an Octopus card (see "Getting Around"). Alternatively, a PCCW Hello PhoneCard, which comes in denominations ranging from HK$50 to HK$500, is available at PCCW shops, and 7-Eleven and Circle K convenience stores. To use it, you have to key in an access number and then the PhoneCard number. You can also charge your telephone call to a major credit card by using one of about 100 credit card phones in major shopping locations.

Internet & E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- Most hotels have business centers with computers for Internet access, but they can be expensive (some may be free for hotel guests, however). Cybercafes, though still few and far between, are growing in number. In addition to the suggestions below, check www.cybercafe.com or contact the HKTB.

All Hong Kong libraries have computers with Internet access you can use for free. The Hong Kong Central Library, 66 Causeway Rd., Causeway Bay (tel. 852/3150 1234; www.hkpl.gov.hk), offers free Internet access from its many computers for a maximum of 2 hours. You'll find them on the ground and first floors. To avoid having to wait, you can make a reservation at tel. 852/2921 0348.

More convenient, perhaps, is Cyber Pro Internet Cafe, located in the Star House across from the Tsim Sha Tsui ferry terminal, next to McDonald's (no phone). Open daily from 10am to 2am, it requires a HK$40 deposit, plus a minimum charge of HK$20 for 1 hour. Four hours cost HK$60. In Yau Ma Tei, there's Main Street Cafe, 380 Nathan Rd. (tel. 852/2782 1818), with four computers customers can use for free with purchase of a drink. It's open daily 7am to 10pm.

Pacific Coffee (www.pacificcoffee.com) is Hong Kong's largest chain of coffee shops; most locations offer two or more computers that customers can access for free (you'll probably have to wait in line and use is restricted to 15 min. per visit). Locations include Shop 1022 in the ifc mall, above Hong Kong Station in Central (tel. 852/2868 5100), open Sunday through Thursday from 7am to 11pm and Friday and Saturday from 7am to midnight.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and public areas are signing on as Wi-Fi "hot spots." In Hong Kong, accessibility begins at its airport, where passengers with laptops have free Wi-Fi access from virtually anywhere in the terminal.

All upper-range and medium-priced hotels in Hong Kong are equipped with either high-speed dataports or Wi-Fi connections that allow guests to use laptop computers. In some hotels, Internet access is available upon purchase of an Internet access card for about HK$100, valid for anywhere from 100 minutes to unlimited use for 5 days, depending on the hotel (in general, the more expensive the hotel, the more expensive its Internet rates). Other hotels charge a flat rate per day, with HK$120 for 24 hours the prevailing rate. Luckily, a growing percentage of hotels offer it for free (check individual hotel listings for Internet information or call your hotel in advance to see what your options are).

Hong Kong's electricity uses 220 volts and 50 cycles compared to the U.S. 110 volts and 60 cycles, but most laptop computers nowadays are equipped to deal with both. However, you'll need a prong adapter. Upper-end hotels have built-in adapters that accept foreign (including U.S.) prongs; otherwise, housekeeping can probably lend you one for free. For moderate and budget hotels, you might need a connection kit of the right power and -- for wired connections -- a spare phone cord and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Otherwise, there are lots of places outside your hotel where you can access Wi-Fi free of charge. In an impressive effort to make Hong Kong a wireless city, the government offers free wireless Internet access services at approximately 380 hot spots throughout the SAR, including public libraries, sports and recreational centers, major parks, some tourist attractions, and government buildings and offices, including Victoria Park in Causeway Bay, and the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront promenade and Kowloon Park in Tsim Sha Tsui. You can pick up a brochure outlining how to hook up at various places around town, including HKTB Visitor Centres and public museums like the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre in Kowloon Park. For more information, call the GovWiFi help desk at tel. 852/186 111 or check the website www.gov.hk/wifi.

Finally, lots of cafes, bars, and restaurants offer wireless, including Starbucks, Pacific Coffee, Delifrance, and KFC, with locations throughout Hong Kong, though you may have to pay for the service. Ask your hotel concierge for the nearest location.

Getting Around

If you've just been to Tokyo or Bangkok, Hong Kong will probably bring a rush of relief. For one thing, English is everywhere -- on street signs, on buses, and in the subways. In addition, almost 1,000 pink and blue directional signs posted on streets and intersections throughout Hong Kong point to attractions and points of interest (signs in rural areas are green). The city of Hong Kong is so compact, and its public transportation system so efficient and extensive, that it's no problem at all zipping from Tsim Sha Tsui to Causeway Bay or vice versa for a meal or some shopping. Even the novice traveler should have no problem getting around. Transportation is also extremely cheap. Just remember that cars drive on the left side of the street, English style, so North Americans need to be careful when stepping off the curb (luckily for most of us, warnings painted on the street at many major intersections remind pedestrians which direction to look).

By Public Transportation

Each mode of transportation in the SAR -- bus, ferry, tram, and train/subway -- has its own fare system and thus requires a new ticket each time you transfer from one mode of transport to another. If you're going to be in Hong Kong for a few days, however, you'll find it much more convenient to travel with the Octopus. This electronic smart card allows users to hop on and off trains, trams, subways, buses, and ferries without worrying about purchasing tickets each time or fumbling for exact change. Sold at Customer Service Centres at all MTR stations (including the airport) and some ferry piers, the Octopus costs a minimum of HK$150, including a HK$50 refundable deposit (minus a HK$7 handling fee if returned within 3 months), and can be reloaded in HK$50 and HK$100 increments. Children and seniors pay HK$70 for the card, including deposit.

Alternatively, several other stored-value tickets are available for non-Hong Kong residents who will be in Hong Kong fewer than 14 days. The Airport Express Travel Pass, for example, is good for 3 days of unlimited travel: The HK$300 card includes a round-trip from and to the airport on the Airport Express Line; the HK$220 card includes one trip from or to the airport. There's also a Tourist Day Pass, allowing 1 day of MTR travel (except the Airport Express, MTR buses, which travel betweens stations, and first class on the East Rail) for HK$55.

To use the Octopus, simply sweep the card across a special pad at the entry gate (you'll notice that most commuters don't even bother removing the card from their wallets or purses); the fare is automatically deducted. The Octopus is valid for all MTR lines (including those serving the New Territories), the Airport Express Line (which runs between the airport and Kowloon and Central), all trams (including the Peak Tram), buses, some minibuses, the Star Ferry, and ferries to outlying islands. In addition, the Octopus can be used for purchases at all 7-Eleven, Circle K, and Metro Store convenience stores; fast-food chains like KFC, Starbucks, and McDonald's; some vending machines; and even to make phone calls at Pacific Century Cyber Works (PCCW) public telephones. At the end of your Hong Kong stay, be sure to turn in the Octopus card for a refund of your deposit (minus a HK$7 handling fee) and any unused value stored in the card. For information, call the Octopus hot line at tel. 852/2266 2222 or check its website at www.octopus.com.hk.

Exact Change, Please -- Keep in mind that transportation on buses and trams requires the exact fare, so be certain to have lots of loose change with you wherever you go. Even though ferries and subways will give change, you'll find it more convenient if you have exact change, especially during rush hours.

By Train & Subway

The Star Ferry and trams are so popular and at times so crowded that it's hard to imagine what they must have been like before Hong Kong's subway system was constructed to relieve the human crunch. Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is modern, efficient, clean, and easy to use, and it's also much faster than the older modes of transportation (and sometimes even taxis). Take note, however, that there are no public toilets at any of the stations or on the trains, and that smoking, drinking, and eating are prohibited. The MTR operates daily from 6am to about midnight or 1am, depending on the line and station. For general inquiries, call the MTR 24-hour hot line at tel. 852/2881 8888 or check its website at www.mtr.com.hk.

Built primarily to transport commuters in the New Territories to and from work and running under the harbor to link Kowloon with Hong Kong Island, the MTR serves about 3.7 million passengers a day. You'll probably want to avoid rush hours, unless you want to know what it feels like to be a sardine in a can.

Routes -- The 11 train and subway lines are color coded. When you ride the train the name of the next station is displayed above each compartment door and announced in English, so you shouldn't have any problem finding your way around. Stations are named for the areas they serve: Go to Central MTR station if you're looking for an address in the Central District, or to Mong Kok MTR station if you're looking for a place in Mong Kok, Kowloon. Probably the most important line for tourists is the red-coded Tsuen Wan Line, which starts in Central on Hong Kong Island, goes underneath Victoria Harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui, and then runs north the length of Nathan Road, with stops at Jordan, Yau Ma Tei, and Mong Kok stations before heading northwest to the satellite town of Tsuen Wan in the New Territories. The blue-coded Island Line, with 14 stations, operates on the north side of Hong Kong Island from Sheung Wan (where you'll find the Macau Ferry Pier) east to Chai Wan, passing through Central, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay.

Three other lines, used mainly by commuters, are the Kwun Tong Line, which arches from Yau Ma Tei eastward to the New Territories; the Tseung Kwan O Line, which runs from North Point on Hong Kong Island and then goes under the harbor before connecting with the Kwun Tong Line; and the Tung Chung Line, which mirrors the Airport Express Line as it runs from Hong Kong Station in Central to Kowloon Station and onward to Tung Chung on Lantau Island. The Disney Resort Line branches off the Tung Chung Line to Disneyland. The Airport Express Line also serves airport passengers, running between Hong Kong Station in Central and Hong Kong International Airport, with a stop at Kowloon Station.

In 2007, the former Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR), which operated four rail lines in the New Territories as well as through train service to mainland China, merged with MTR to form one vast network of rail service extending from Central on Hong Kong Island through the New Territories. Most useful for visitors is the East Rail, which travels from Hung Hom Station in Kowloon up to Sheung Shui in the New Territories. That is, Sheung Shui is where you must get off if you don't have a visa to go onward to China. If you do have a visa, you can continue to the border station of Lo Wu and travel onward all the way through China -- and even Russia and Europe if you want to, ending up in London. This line has two different kinds of trains: the express through-train to Guangzhou, Shanghai, and Beijing; and the local commuter service for those going to towns in the New Territories.

If you're taking the East Rail commuter train, you'll make stops at Mong Kok East, Kowloon Tong, Tai Wai, Sha Tin, Fo Tan, Racecourse (on horse-racing days only), University, Tai Po Market, Tai Wo, and Fanling before reaching Sheung Shui. The whole trip from East Tsim Sha Tsui to Sheung Shui takes only 38 minutes, so it's the easiest and fastest way to see part of the New Territories. It's also convenient, with trains running every 3 to 8 minutes. Connecting to East Rail at Tai Wai Station is the Ma On Shan Rail, useful for visiting Che Kung Temple.

Serving the western part of the New Territories is the West Rail, which links East Tsim Sha Tsui Station in Kowloon with Tuen Mun in the northwestern part of the New Territories in 30 minutes. Extending from the western end of the West Rail is a feeder Light Rail transit system, useful for visiting Hong Kong Wetland Park.

Fares -- Single, one-way tickets start at HK$4 for most lines and increase according to the distance traveled, but the most expensive ride is the trip underneath the harbor, which costs HK$8.50 from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central (still cheap, but outrageous when compared to the Star Ferry's fare of HK$2.50 for first class). Fares for seniors 65 and older and children ages 3 to 11 start at HK$3. Fares are indicated by inputting your destination on a touch screen above all vending machines, which accept HK$10, HK$5, HK$2, HK$1, and HK50¢ coins, as well as HK$500, HK$100, HK$20, and HK$10 notes, and give back change.

Even if you're traveling long distances, transportation is fairly cheap in Hong Kong. From Hung Hom to Sheung Shui in the New Territories, for example, it costs HK$8.50 for ordinary (second) class and HK$17 for first class for the 38-minute trip.

Your ticket is plastic, the size of a credit card, and you feed it into a slot at the turnstile. It disappears and then shoots up at the other end of the turnstile. Be sure to save your ticket -- at the end of your journey, you will again insert it into the turnstile (only this time you won't get it back unless it's an Octopus). Because these tickets are used again and again and have a magnetized strip, be careful not to bend or damage them.

As mentioned above, if you think you're going to be doing a lot of traveling on public transportation, consider buying the Octopus, which not only saves you from having to buy another ticket each time you ride but also provides a slight discount. Numerous transportation passes are also available just for tourists.

By Bus

Hong Kong buses are a delight -- especially the British-style double-deckers. They're good for traveling to places where other forms of public transport don't go, such as to the southern part of Hong Kong Island like Stanley, around Lantau, or up into parts of Kowloon and the New Territories. Bus numbers containing an "X" are for express buses, with limited stops. Depending on the route, buses run daily from about 6am to midnight, with fares ranging from HK$1.20 to HK$45; the fare is halved for children 11 and under and seniors 66 and over. You must have the exact fare, which you deposit into a box as you get on. Make sure, therefore, that you always carry a lot of spare change, or buy an Octopus card. Although final destinations are clearly displayed in English on the front of the bus, drivers often don't speak English, so you may want to have someone at your hotel write down your destination in Chinese, particularly if you're traveling in the New Territories. And with the exception of congested areas like Central or Tsim Sha Tsui where queues of people wait at the stop, you must flag down a bus to make it stop, especially in the New Territories or on an island. If you don't wave your arm, it will just go barreling past. When on board, be sure to push the signal button for your stop.

Hong Kong's buses are operated by two companies: New World First Bus(NWFB)/Citybus (tel. 852/2136 8888 for NWFB, tel. 852/2873 0818 for Citybus; www.nwst.com.hk) and Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB; tel. 852/2745 4466; www.kmb.com.hk), which collectively cover Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and the New Territories. The New Lantao Bus Co. (tel. 852/2984 9848; www.newlantaobus.com) operates on Lantau Island.

The two major bus terminals are located at or near both ends of the Star Ferry. On Hong Kong Island, most buses depart from Exchange Square in the Central District or from bus stops in front of the Central Ferry Piers. Some buses also depart from Admiralty Station. In Kowloon, buses depart from in front of the Star Ferry concourse in Tsim Sha Tsui.

The HKTB has individual leaflets for Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and the New Territories that show bus routes to most of the major tourist spots, indicating where you can catch buses, their frequency and fares, and where to get off. Keep in mind that buses can get very crowded at rush hours and that some buses look pretty ancient -- which can make the winding trip to Stanley in a double-decker bus a bone-rattling and exciting experience.

Alternatively, there are two companies offering hop-on/hop-off service aboard double-decker buses traveling to key attractions. The Big Bus Company (tel. 852/2723 2108; www.bigbustours.com) operates routes along north Hong Kong Island from Central and Lan Kwai Fong through Wan Chai to Causeway Bay; from Central to Stanley; and around Kowloon. Cost of a ticket, which includes a ride on the Star Ferry and the Peak Tram to and from Victoria Peak, is HK$320 for 24 hours or HK$420 for 48 hours (children pay HK$200 and HK$300, respectively). Buses run every 30 minutes from 9:30 or 10am to 6pm (buses to Stanley run less frequently). People purchasing the 48-hour ticket can also board a 7pm evening bus to Kowloon's night market.

Rickshaw Sightseeing Bus (tel. 852/2136 8888; www.rickshawbus.com) operates two routes on north Hong Kong Island departing every 30 minutes from the Central Ferry Piers. The Heritage Route, running daily from 10am to 6pm, is convenient for sightseeing in the Western District and includes Man Mo Temple, Ladder Street, and the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Museum. The Metropolis Route, running daily from 10:15am to 9:45pm, travels to Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. A day ticket covering both routes costs HK$50; the fare for a single journey is HK$8.70. Children and seniors pay half fare.

Tickets for both companies can be purchased on board the bus.

By Tram

Tram lines are found only on Hong Kong Island. Established in 1904 along what used to be the waterfront, these are narrow, double-decker affairs that clank their way 16km (10 miles) in a straight line slowly along the northern edge of the island from Kennedy Town in the west to Shau Kei Wan in the east, with one branch making a detour to Happy Valley. Passing through the Western District, Central District, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay on Des Voeux Road, Queensway Road, and Hennessy Road, they can't be beat for atmosphere and are easy to ride since most of them travel only on one line (those branching off to Happy Valley are clearly marked). In the zeal to modernize Central, it's a wonder that these trams have survived at all. Ever since the advent of the subway, there's been talk of getting rid of them, but this has raised a storm of protest. Comprising the largest fleet of double-decker trams in the world, they are easily one of the most nostalgic forms of transportation in Hong Kong.

Enter the trams from the back and go immediately up the winding stairs to the top deck. The best seats are those in the front row, where you have an unparalleled view of Hong Kong: laundry hanging from second-story windows, signs swinging over the street, markets twisting down side alleys, crowded sidewalks, and people darting in front of the tram you'd swear wouldn't make it. Riding the tram is one of the cheapest ways of touring Hong Kong Island's northern side, and the fare is the same no matter how far you go. Once you've had enough, simply go downstairs to the front of the tram and deposit the exact fare of HK$2 into a little tin box next to the bus driver as you exit. If you don't have the exact amount, don't panic -- no one will arrest you for overpaying a few cents. Children and seniors pay HK$1. You can also use the Octopus card. Trams run daily from about 6am to midnight. More information is available at tel. 852/2548 7102 or www.hktramways.com.

In addition to the old-fashioned trams, the Peak Tram (tel. 852/2522 0922; www.thepeak.com.hk) is a funicular that transports passengers to one of Hong Kong's star attractions: Victoria Peak and its incomparable views. Its lower terminus is on Garden Road in Central, which you can reach via the 15C shuttle bus departing from the Central Ferry Piers at 15- to 20-minute intervals daily from 10am to 11:45pm and costing HK$4.25. The tram itself runs every 10 to 15 minutes from 7am to midnight, with round-trip tickets costing HK$36 for adults, HK$16 for seniors and children. You can also use an Octopus card.

By Star Ferry

A trip across Victoria Harbour on one of the white-and-green ferries of the Star Ferry Company (tel. 852/2367 7065; www.starferry.com.hk) is one of the most celebrated rides in the world. Carrying passengers back and forth between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon ever since 1898, these boats have come to symbolize Hong Kong itself and are almost always featured in travel articles on Hong Kong Island. They all incorporate the word "star" in their names, like Night Star, Twinkling Star, or Meridien Star.

The Star Ferry is very easy to ride. Simply use your Octopus card or buy a token for the ancient-looking turnstile, follow the crowd in front of you down the ramp, walk over the gangway, and find a seat on one of the polished wooden benches. A whistle will blow, a man in a sailor uniform will haul up the gangway, and you're off, dodging fishing boats, tugboats, and barges as you make your way across the harbor. Businesspeople who live in Hong Kong are easy to spot (they're usually buried behind their newspapers); visitors, on the other hand, tend to crowd around the railing, cameras in hand.

The whole trip is much too short, about 7 minutes total from loading pier to unloading dock, with the ride across the harbor taking about 5 minutes. But that 5-minute ride is one of the best in the world, and it's also one of the cheapest. It costs only HK$2 Monday to Friday and HK$2.40 weekends and holidays for ordinary (second) class (seniors 66 and over can ride ordinary class for free; children pay reduced fares). If you really want to splurge, first class costs HK$2.50 Monday to Friday and HK$3 weekends and holidays. First class is located on the upper deck, and it has its own entryway and gangway (follow the signs in the ferry concourse); if it's raining or cold, first class is preferable because of the glass windows in the bow. Otherwise I find ordinary class much more colorful and entertaining because it's the one the locals use and the view of the harbor is often better.

Star Ferries ply the waters daily from 6:30am to 11:30pm between Hong Kong Island's Central District and the tip of Kowloon's Tsim Sha Tsui. Ferries depart every 6 to 8 minutes, except for early in the morning or late at night, when they leave every 10 to 12 minutes.

By Other Ferries

Besides the Star Ferry, many other ferries run to other parts of the city. Ferries from the Central District, for example, also go back and forth to Kowloon's Hung Hom from about 7am to 8pm Monday through Friday; 7am to 7pm Saturday, Sunday, and holidays for HK$6.30. From Wan Chai, ferry service to Tsim Sha Tsui runs from 7:30am to 11pm and costs HK$2.50 Monday to Friday and HK$3 Saturday, Sunday, and holidays. Ferries from Wan Chai to Hung Hom run from about 7am to 7 or 8pm and cost HK$6.30.

In addition to ferries crossing the harbor between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, a large fleet serves the many outlying islands and points north of Kowloon. If you want to go to one of the outlying islands, you'll find that most of these ferries depart from the Central Ferry Piers (home also to the Star Ferry) in Central. The latest schedules and fares are available from the Hong Kong Tourism Board. One thing to keep in mind is that on the weekends the fares are higher and the ferries can be unbelievably crowded with locals who want to escape the city, so it's best to travel on a weekday. Even so, the most you'll ever pay for a ferry, even on deluxe class on a weekend, is HK$37. You can use the Octopus card. 

By Taxi

Regular Taxi -- As a rule, taxi drivers in Hong Kong are strictly controlled and are fairly honest. If they're free to pick up passengers, a red FOR HIRE flag will be raised in the windshield during the day and a lighted TAXI sign will be on the roof at night. You can hail them from the street, though there are some restricted areas, especially in Central. In addition, taxis are not allowed to stop on roads with a single yellow line between 7am and 7pm; they are not allowed to stop at all on roads with a double yellow line on the edge of the road. Probably the easiest places to pick up a taxi are on side streets, at a taxi stand (located at all bus terminals), or at a hotel. Taxis are generally abundant anytime except when it's raining, during rush hour (about 5-8pm), during shift change (usually around 4pm), and on horse-racing days from September to May. Because many drivers do not speak English, it's a good idea to have your destination written in Chinese. Passengers are required by law to wear seatbelts.

Taxis on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon are red. Fares start at HK$18 for the first 2km (1 1/4 miles), and then are HK$1.50 for each additional 200m (about 656 ft.). Waiting time, incorporated in the meter, is HK$1.50 per minute, luggage costs an extra HK$5 per piece, and taxis ordered by phone also add a HK$5 surcharge. Extra charges to pay for the driver's return trip are also permitted for trips through harbor tunnels and Aberdeen Tunnel. Note, too, the additional charge per bird or animal you might want to bring with you in the taxi! For a tip, simply round up to the nearest dollar or add HK$1 to the fare for short journeys; for longer rides, round up to the nearest HK$5. Although taxi drivers can service both sides of Victoria Harbour, they tend to stick to a certain neighborhood and often aren't familiar with anything outside their area.

Taxis in the New Territories are green, with fares starting at HK$15 at flag-fall. They cover only the New Territories and are not allowed to transport you back into Kowloon. Taxis on Lantau are blue and start at HK$13.

If you have a complaint about a taxi driver, call the taxi complaint hot line (tel. 852/2889 9999), but make sure you have the taxi's license number. The driver's name, photograph, and car number are displayed on the dashboard. Better yet, ask for a receipt, which has the taxi number on it and will also help you track down lost items left behind.

Minibuses -- These small, 16-passenger buses are the poor person's taxis. Although they are quite useful for the locals, they're a bit confusing for tourists. For one thing, though the destination may be written in both Chinese and English, you almost need a magnifying glass to read the English, and by then the vehicle has probably already whizzed by. Even if you can read the English, you may not know the bus's route or where it's going.

The two types of vehicles are distinguishable by color. The green-and-yellow public "light buses" (though also called minibuses) follow fixed routes, have numbers, and charge fixed rates ranging from HK$2 to HK$23, depending on the distance. They also require the exact fare as you enter, or you can use an Octopus card. The most useful ones on Hong Kong Island are probably those that depart from the Star Ferry concourse for Bowen Road and Ocean Park, as well as those that travel from Central's Lung Wui Road to Victoria Peak or from Causeway Bay to Stanley.

The red-and-yellow minibuses are a lot more confusing and shouldn't be used by anyone not familiar with Hong Kong, because they have no fixed route and will stop when you hail them from the street (except for some restricted areas in Central). However, they're useful for traveling along Nathan Road or between Central and Causeway Bay. Fares range from HK$2 to HK$23, depending on the distance and demand (higher fares are charged on rainy days, race days, or cross-harbor trips), and you pay as you exit. Just yell when you want to get off.

By Car

Rental cars are not advisable in Hong Kong and hardly anyone uses them, even businesspeople. For one thing, nothing is so far away that you can't get there easily, quickly, and cheaply by taxi or public transport. In addition, there probably won't be any place to park once you get to your destination. If you want a chauffeur-driven car, most major hotels have their own private fleet -- you can even rent a limousine. If you're still determined to rent a car or plan to take a driving tour of the New Territories (you are not allowed to enter mainland China), car-rental agencies -- such as Avis and Hertz -- have branches here, along with a couple of dozen local firms. Your hotel concierge should be able to make arrangements. A valid driver's license is required, and, remember, traffic flows on the left-hand side of the street.

On Foot

One of the great things about Hong Kong is that you can explore virtually the entire city proper on foot, with directional signage posted seemingly everywhere directing you to tourist attractions. You can walk from the Central District all the way through Wan Chai to Causeway Bay in about an hour or so, while the half-hour walk up Nathan Road to Yau Ma Tei is a colorful experience I recommend to all visitors. Unfortunately, land reclamation has been carried out so ambitiously, it may even be possible one day to walk from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon.

In the Central District, mazes of covered, elevated walkways separate pedestrians from traffic, and connect office buildings, shopping complexes, and hotels. In fact, some roads have no pedestrians because they're all using overhead passageways. These walkways can be confusing, though signs direct pedestrians to major buildings. Tourists will probably find streets easier to navigate if using a map, but walkways are convenient when it rains and are safer, since the walkways keep pedestrians safe from traffic. I was able to pick up a handy "Walkway System in Central" folding map at the Hong Kong Planning and Infrastructure Exhibition Gallery, but I can't guarantee it will still be available when you get there.

An interesting "people mover" is the free Central-Mid-Levels Escalator between Central on Des Voeux Road Central and the Mid-Levels on Victoria Peak. It's a series of moving walkways and escalators that snake their way through the Central District up the steep slope of the Peak. Constructed in the hope of alleviating traffic congestion for commuters who live in the Mid-Levels (about halfway up the Peak), the combination escalator/walkway has a total length of just less than .8km (1/2 mile) and transports approximately 27,000 people a day, moving downward in the morning until 10am and then reversing uphill the rest of the day to accommodate those returning home. The escalator has many entrances/exits, so commuters can get on and off as they like.

Orientation

Hong Kong, at the mouth of the Pearl River facing the South China Sea and with busy Victoria Harbour at its center, comprises Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, and as many as 260 outlying islands. Most visitors, however, spend the majority of their time in Kowloon and on Hong Kong Island, simply because this is where most of the hotels, restaurants, museums, shops, markets, and bars are located in the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR). If your time is limited, this is also where I recommend you spend your first 2 days.

Hong Kong Island, the territory's second-largest island, is where the British first landed and established its colony (Hong Kong's biggest island, Lantau, is the destination of my third itinerary). Covering some 80 sq. km (31 sq. miles), Hong Kong Island is home to some one million residents, most of whom live on its northern edge. The most famous district in Hong Kong is the Central District, home to the SAR's banking and commercial sectors, with the Western District, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay spreading on both sides and served by a tram line and underground railway network. At Hong Kong Island's southern end, facing the South China Sea, is Stanley, famous for its market and laid-back waterfront; Aberdeen, home to a boat population; and Ocean Park, with its aquariums and thrill rides.

North across Victoria Harbour, linked by ferry, MTR, and cross-harbor tunnels, is Kowloon Peninsula. Kowloon gets its name from gau lung, which means "nine dragons." Legend has it that about 800 years ago, a boy emperor named Ping counted eight hills here and remarked that there must be eight resident dragons, since dragons were known to inhabit hills. (The ninth "dragon" was the emperor himself.)

Today the hills of Kowloon provide a dramatic backdrop for one of the world's most stunning cityscapes. Kowloon Peninsula is generally considered the area south of these hills, which means it also encompasses a very small part of the New Territories. However, "Kowloon" is most often used to describe its southernmost tip, the 12 sq. km (4 2/3 sq. miles) that were ceded to Britain "in perpetuity" in 1860. Its northern border is Boundary Street, which separates it from the New Territories; included in this area are the districts Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Yau Ma Tei, and Mong Kok. Once open countryside, Kowloon has practically disappeared under the dense spread of hotels, shops, restaurants, housing and industrial projects, and land reclamation.

Main Arteries & Streets

Hong Kong Island's Central District is larger now than it was originally, thanks to massive land reclamation. Queen's Road, now several blocks inland, used to mark the waterfront, as did Des Voeux Road and Connaught Road in subsequent years. Today they serve as busy thoroughfares through Central, since the steep incline up Victoria Peak follows close on their heels. From the Central District, Hennessy, Lockhart, Jaffe, and Gloucester roads lead east through Wan Chai to Causeway Bay.

It wasn't until 1972 that the first cross-harbor tunnel was built, connecting Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island with Tsim Sha Tsui East in Kowloon. In 1989 a second tunnel was completed under Victoria Harbour; a third tunnel was completed in conjunction with the Hong Kong International Airport.

On the Kowloon side, the most important artery is Nathan Road, which runs from the harbor north up the spine of Kowloon Peninsula and is lined with hotels, restaurants, and shops. Salisbury Road runs east and west at the tip of Tsim Sha Tsui from the Star Ferry through Tsim Sha Tsui East along the waterfront. Also on the waterfront is the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade, affording great views of Hong Kong Island and home to Hong Kong's own Avenue of the Stars.

Finding an Address

With a good map, you should have no problem finding an address. Streets are labeled in English (though signs are sometimes lacking in more congested areas like the Western District and Yau Ma Tei) and building numbers progress consecutively. For the most part, streets that run east to west (such as Des Voeux Rd. Central, Hennessy Rd., Lockhart Rd., and Salisbury Rd.) all have the even-numbered buildings on the north side of the street and the odd-numbered ones on the south. From Central, roads running through Wan Chai all the way west to Causeway Bay start with the lowest numbers near Central, with the highest-numbered buildings ending at Causeway Bay. On Nathan Road, Kowloon's most important thoroughfare, the lowest-numbered buildings are at the southern tip near the harbor; the numbers increase consecutively, with the evens on the east and the odds to the west.

Remember that the floors inside buildings follow the British system of numbering. What Americans call the first floor, therefore, is called the ground floor in Hong Kong; the American second floor is numbered the first floor. In addition, if you're trying to find a specific office or factory outlet in a big building, it's useful to know that number 714 means it's on the seventh floor in Room 14, while 2312 means Room 12 on the 23rd floor.

Street Maps

You can get a free map of the SAR from the Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB). The map should be adequate for locating most hotels, restaurants, sights, shops, and bars mentioned in this guide. Free giveaway maps are also available at most hotels. If you want to explore Hong Kong in more detail, you can purchase an entire book with maps of the city region and areas in the New Territories called Hong Kong Guidebook (Universal Publications, Ltd; www.up.com.hk), available at bookstores, but you probably won't need this unless you're writing a guide book. Online, electronic maps are available at www.ypmap.com and www.centamap.com.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

For information on obtaining passports, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The only document most tourists need to enter the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) is a passport, valid for at least 1 month beyond the planned departure date from Hong Kong. Americans, Australians, New Zealanders, Canadians, and other British Commonwealth citizens can stay for 90 days without a visa, while citizens of the United Kingdom can stay for 180 days without a visa. Immigration officers may also ask arriving visitors for proof of onward travel or a return ticket (unless they are in transit to mainland China or Macau) and proof that they have adequate funds for their stay in Hong Kong (generally, a confirmed hotel reservation and a credit card will suffice).

Once in Hong Kong, visitors must carry photo identification at all times, such as a passport or driver's license. Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt. If you lose it, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement. As an extra safety precaution, it's a good idea to photocopy your passport; keep a copy separate from your passport, such as in your luggage, and give a copy to family or friends at home.

If you plan to make an excursion to mainland China, you'll need a visa, which can be obtained easily in Hong Kong. Applications require one photo and generally take 3 working days to process. Your passport must have at least 6 months validity beyond your planned date of departure.

Customs

Visitors 18 and older are allowed to bring into the SAR duty-free a 1-liter (34-oz.) bottle of alcohol and 19 cigarettes (or 1 cigar or 25 grams of tobacco). For more information, go to www.customs.gov.hk.

What You Can Take Home from Hong Kong -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No shots or inoculations are required for Hong Kong, but the temperature of all arriving passengers is taken upon entering customs; if you have a fever, you may be quarantined as a protection against H1N1 or avian flu. In addition, you will need proof of a vaccination against cholera if you have been in an infected area during the 14 days preceding your arrival. 

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors receive half-price admission to most museums in Hong Kong. In addition, seniors can ride the cross-harbor ferry free of charge and receive reduced fares for ferries to the outlying islands, the trams (including the Peak Tram), and the subway system. Some discounts are available to seniors 61 and older, others for seniors 66 and older. In any case, seniors should carry identification for proof of age and should keep in mind that there are many stairs to climb in Hong Kong, including overhead pedestrian bridges and in subway stations. Remember that it is very hot and humid in summer.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students receive a slight discount to most museums in Hong Kong, but major attractions like Ocean Park do not offer discounts. Your best bet is to bring along an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) together with your university student ID and show them both at museum ticket windows. For information on the card and where and how to obtain one, check the website www.isic.org.

Calendar of Events

If you're lucky, your trip might coincide with one of Hong Kong's colorful festivals. The only festival that shops and offices close for is the Chinese New Year, though some in Tsim Sha Tsui remain open to cater to tourists.

Below are the most popular events, including Chinese festivals and festivals of the arts. For additional information on all of these events the Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB; tel. 852/2508 1234 in Hong Kong; www.discoverhongkong.com) can provide detailed information on where events are being staged and how to get there. For several of the festivals, HKTB even offers organized tours, which are one of the best ways to secure front-row seats without battling the crowds.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January/February

Chinese New Year. The most important Chinese holiday, this is a 3-day affair, a time for visiting friends and relatives, settling debts, doing a thorough housecleaning, consulting fortunetellers, and worshipping ancestors. Strips of red paper with greetings of wealth, good fortune, and longevity are pasted on doors, and families visit temples. Most shops (except those in tourist areas) close down for at least 2 or 3 days; streets and building facades are decorated with elaborate light displays; flower markets sell peach trees, chrysanthemums, and other good-luck flowers; a colorful parade winds its way along the waterfront, usually on the first day; and a dazzling display of fireworks lights up the harbor, usually on the second day of the holiday. Because this festival is largely a family affair (much like the Christian Christmas), it holds little interest for the tourist. In fact, if you're planning a side trip into China, this would be the worst time to go, since all routes to the mainland are clogged with Hong Kong Chinese returning home to visit relatives. Late January or early February (Feb 3-5, 2011).

February/March

Hong Kong Arts Festival. This is a month-long celebration with performances by world-renowned orchestras, pop and jazz ensembles, and opera, dance, and theater companies (including experimental theater and Chinese operas); and with ethnic music and art exhibitions. For a schedule of events, venues, and ticket information, call tel. 852/2824 2430 or HKTB at tel. 852/2508 1234, or visit the website www.hk.artsfestival.org. February/March (Feb 17-Mar 27, 2011).

March

Hong Kong Sevens Rugby Tournament, Hong Kong Stadium. Known as "the Sevens," this is one of Hong Kong's most popular, and one of Asia's largest, sporting events, with more than 20 teams from around the world competing for the Cup Championship. Tickets (priced at HK$880 for a 3-day pass) are often sold out. For more information, contact the Hong Kong Rugby Football Union at tel. 852/2504 8311 or check the websites www.hkrugby.com or www.hksevens.com.hk. Fourth weekend in March.

March/April

Ching Ming Festival, all Chinese cemeteries (especially in Aberdeen, Happy Valley, Chai Wan, and Cheung Chau island). A Confucian festival to honor the dead, observed by sweeping ancestral graves, burning incense, offering food and flowers, and picnicking among the graves. Contact HKTB at tel. 852/2508 1234. Fourth or fifth day of the Third Moon, March/April (Apr 5, 2011).

Hong Kong International Film Festival, Hong Kong Arts Centre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, City Hall, and other venues around town. More than 250 films from more than 50 countries are featured at this 2-week event, including new releases, documentaries, and archival films. Tickets for most events cost HK$60. For more information, call tel. 852/2970 3300, or check www.hkiff.org.hk. Two weeks in March/April.

April

Tin Hau Festival, all Tin Hau temples, especially in Joss House Bay (Sai Kung) and Tai Shu Ha (Yuen Long). This colorful festival celebrates the birth of Tin Hau, goddess of the sea and Hong Kong's most popular deity among fishing folk. The celebration stems from a legendary fisherman's daughter who could supposedly calm stormy seas and protect fishermen. To pay her tribute, fishing boats are decorated with colorful flags, parades and lion dances fill the streets, and family shrines are carried to shore to be blessed by Taoist priests. A similar festival is held at A-Ma Temple in Macau. Contact HKTB, which organizes special tours of the events, at tel. 852/2508 1234. Twenty-third day of the Third Moon, usually in April (Apr 25, 2011).

April/May

Cheung Chau Bun Festival, Pak Tai Temple, Cheung Chau island. Unique to Hong Kong, this weeklong affair is thought to appease restless ghosts and spirits. Originally held to placate the unfortunate souls of those murdered by pirates, it features a street parade of lions and dragons and Chinese opera, as well as floats with children seemingly suspended in the air, held up by cleverly concealed wires. The end of the festival is heralded by three bun-covered scaffolds erected in front of the Pak Tai Temple, with selected contestants scrambling up them to retrieve the buns, which supposedly bring good luck to those who receive them. HKTB organizes tours of the parade; call tel. 852/2508 1234. Usually late April or early May (May 10, 2011).

Buddha's Birthday, Buddhist temples throughout Hong Kong. Worshippers flock to pay respect to Siddhartha, founder of Buddhism, and to bathe Buddha statues. The Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is one of the most popular destinations on this day. Contact the HKTB at tel. 852/2508 1234. Ninth day of the Fourth Moon, usually either in April or May (May 10, 2011).

May/June

Dragon Boat Races (Tuen Ng Festival). Races of long, narrow, gaily painted boats are powered by 20 to 22 oarsmen who row to the beat of drums. The races originated in ancient China, where legend held that an imperial advisor drowned himself in a Hunan river to protest government corruption. His faithful followers, wishing to recover his body, supposedly raced out into the river in boats, beating their paddles on the surface of the water and throwing rice to distract sea creatures from his body. Tai O, on Lantau, holds a religious ceremony, featuring dragon boats carrying deities to four temples and residents burning paper offerings. Otherwise, qualifying heats for the races are held in Aberdeen, Sai Kung, Cheung Chau, and Lantau, with final races on the main day best seen from Stanley Beach. For a front-row seat, contact HKTB at tel. 852/2508 1234 for special race-day tours. Fifth day of the Fifth Moon (June 6, 2011).

August

Yue Lan Festival (Festival of the Hungry Ghosts). Released from the underworld, ghosts are believed to roam the earth for 1 lunar month each year. Religious ceremonies and offerings of food and paper replicas of life's necessities are burned to appease the spirits of discontented ghosts (those who were murdered, died without proper funeral rites, or are without descendants to care for them), in an attempt to prevent the unhappy souls from seeking vengeance on humans. Popular venues are King George V Memorial Park in Kowloon and Moreton Terrace Playground in Causeway Bay. Contact HKTB at tel. 852/2508 1234 for more information. Fourteenth day of the Seventh Moon (Aug 14, 2011).

September/October

Mid-Autumn Festival, Victoria Park, Kowloon Park, and Victoria Peak. Held in early autumn, this major festival (sometimes referred to as the Moon Festival) celebrates the harvest and the brightest moon of the year. In honor of the event, local people light lanterns in the shapes of fish, flowers, and even ships and planes; gaze at the moon; and eat mooncakes (sweet rolls with sesame seeds, duck eggs, and ground lotus seeds). The mooncakes commemorate the 14th-century uprising against the Mongols, when written messages calling for the revolt were concealed in cakes smuggled to the rebels. Today the Urban Council organizes lantern carnivals in parks on both Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, where you can join the Chinese for strolls among hundreds of lanterns, making this one of Hong Kong's most charming and picturesque festivals. In addition, don't miss the dragon fire dance in Causeway Bay's Tai Hang district. Contact HKTB at tel. 852/2807 1234. Fifteenth day of the Eighth Moon, either in September or October (Sept 12, 2011).

October

Chung Yueng Festival, all Chinese cemeteries. The second time of year when ancestral graves are swept and offerings are made. It's also a popular hiking day. Ninth day of the Ninth Moon (Oct 5, 2011).

Wine and Dine Festival, West Kowloon Promenade. Food vendors set up booths along the promenade, allowing visitors to sample award-winning local dishes and wine from around the world. Four days at the end of October.

When to Go

Hong Kong's peak tourist season used to be in spring and fall, but now tourists come to Hong Kong virtually year-round, especially from neighboring mainland China. It's best, therefore, to make hotel reservations well in advance, particularly if you're arriving during the Chinese New Year, one of the festivals described below, or during the two peak vacation periods for mainland Chinese (the so-called "Golden Weeks" beginning May 1 and Oct 1). In addition, major conventions and trade fairs can also tie up the city's best hotels, particularly in spring (Mar-Apr) and autumn (Oct-Nov); check www.discoverhongkong.com for an updated calendar. If you're on a budget, keep in mind that many Hong Kong hotels offer package deals and cheaper rates in summer and winter.

Climate

Because of its subtropical location, Hong Kong's weather is generally mild in winter and uncomfortably hot and humid in summer, with an average annual rainfall of 2.3m (89 in.). The most pleasant time of year is late September through early December, when skies are clear and sunny, temperatures are around 70° to 78°F (21°-26°C), and the humidity drops to 70%. January and February are the coldest months, when temperatures can drop to 50°F (10°C) but usually hover around 60°F (16°C). You'll want a jacket during this time.

In spring (Mar-May), the temperature can range between 64° and 81°F (18°-27°C) and the humidity rises to about 85%, with fog and rain fairly common. That means you'll need a raincoat and the cloud-enveloped Victoria Peak won't provide much of a view. By May, it can also be quite hot and muggy.

By summer (late May to mid-Sept), temperatures are often between 89° and 99°F (32°-37°C), humidity can be 90% or more, and there's little or no relief, even at night. If you're visiting the SAR this time of year, you'd be prudent to carry a hat, sunblock, sunglasses, and plenty of bottled water with you wherever you go. You'll also want a light jacket for air-conditioned rooms and an umbrella. This is when Hong Kong receives the most rain; it's also typhoon season. However, Hong Kong has a very good advance-warning system.

Understanding the Deluge: Tropical Storm Warnings -- It's not likely you'll experience a tropical storm during your stay in Hong Kong, but if you do, consider it part of your Asian experience. Called typhoons (after the Cantonese dai fung, which translates as "big wind") and cyclones in this part of the world and called hurricanes in the West, these severe tropical storms can vent their fury from May to November but are especially prevalent in September. There's no need to worry that a storm may sneak up on you unaware -- storms are tracked and monitored and are rated according to their strength. Their approach dominates local news, but even if you don't read the newspapers or listen to the evening news, you'll see other telltale signs of a coming typhoon -- Mass Transit Railway (MTR) stations, hotel lobbies, and businesses post notices, and shopkeepers cover their windows with storm shutters.

Whenever a severe tropical rainstorm or typhoon is approaching Hong Kong, an alert is broadcast continuously on TV and the radio to keep you informed of the storm's movements. To keep people better informed of the severity of a storm, a system of numbers has been developed that begins at Typhoon Signal No. 1, continues to Typhoon Signal No. 3, and then jumps to Typhoon Signal No. 8 and up. (The numbers in between were dropped when the long range proved too confusing.)

Typhoon Signal No. 1 goes up when a tropical storm that could escalate into a typhoon has moved within an 800km (497-mile) radius of Hong Kong. Although public transportation and organized tours and outdoor activities continue as scheduled, this signal indicates that the public should be on alert. Most locals, however, are rather indifferent to a No. 1, especially since this condition can last for several days, with little physical indication of an approaching storm.

Typhoon Signal No. 3 is given when the winds have escalated, accompanied, perhaps, by heavy rains. By this time, organized guided tours and harbor cruises have generally been suspended. Visitors should check with authorities before venturing on day trips to the outlying islands or Macau. Some businesses may close, as employees head for home while public transportation is still running.

Typhoon Signal No. 8 indicates that the gale has reached Hong Kong. Banks, offices, museums, and most shops and restaurants close, and road, ferry, rail, and air transport is suspended. Never take a Signal No. 8 lightly, but rather, remain in your hotel and celebrate with a typhoon party, which is pretty much what everyone else does. There's nothing like a tropical storm to set the adrenaline running. The last time a No. 10 typhoon reached Hong Kong (with hurricane force wind reaching sustained speeds of upwards from 118 km/73 miles per hour) was in 1999.

Full details of Hong Kong's typhoon warning system can be found in the local telephone directory. For information during a storm, listen to TV or radio broadcasts or call the Hong Kong Observatory at tel. 852/2835 1473 or check its website at www.hko.gov.hk.

Holidays

Hong Kong has 17 public holidays a year, including some of the festivals described below. The majority are Chinese and are therefore celebrated according to the lunar calendar, with different dates each year (for a rundown of Hong Kong's holidays, go to www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/home.php). Because most shops, restaurants, and attractions remain open except during the Chinese New Year, the holidays should not cause any inconvenience to visitors. Banks, however, are closed.

Escorted & Package Tours

The Hong Kong Tourism Board offers a great introduction to local culture through its Cultural Kaleidoscope program called "Meet the People," in which local authorities give free, 1-hour lectures, classes, and seminars on a wide range of subjects from Cantonese opera to tai chi. During the cooler winter months, HKTB arranges free guided excursions to Hong Kong's rural areas. Several Hong Kong hotels, including the InterContinental, the Peninsula, and Four Seasons, also offer cultural experiences for their guests

Visitor Information

The Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) offers a wealth of free information for travelers.

HKTB Online: You can have a virtual visit to Hong Kong at HKTB's home page, www.discoverhongkong.com. The site provides a comprehensive overview of Hong Kong -- maps of the region, major attractions, a detailed weekly calendar of performing arts and festivals, listings for hotels and restaurants, suggested itineraries, and guided tours. It also provides links to e-ticketing services so you can book shows, events, and concerts online before your arrival.

HKTB Overseas: Although the information stocked by HKTB offices abroad is sometimes not as up-to-date or as thorough as that available in Hong Kong itself or through the Internet , it's worth contacting a local HKTB office before leaving home for general information and a map.

In the United States: General information can be obtained by calling tel. 800/282-4582. HKTB offices are located at 115 E. 54th St., 2nd floor, New York, NY 10022-4512 (tel. 212/421-3382; fax 212/421-8428; nycwwo@hktb.com); and 5670 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 1230, Los Angeles, CA 90036 (tel. 323/938-4582; fax 323/938-4583; laxwwo@hktb.com).

In Canada: 9 Temperance St., Toronto, ON, Canada M5H 1Y6 (tel. 416/366-2389; fax 416/366-1098; yyzwwo@hktb.com).

In the United Kingdom: Mutual House, 6th House, 70 Conduit St., London W1S 2GF, England (tel. 207/432-7700; fax 207/432-7701; lonwwo@hktb.com).

In Australia: Hong Kong House, Level 4, 80 Druitt St., Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia (tel. 02/9283-3083; fax 02/9283-3383; sydwwo@hktb.com).

HKTB in Hong Kong: Three HKTB counters are located in the arrival halls of the Hong Kong International Airport, all open daily from 8am to 9pm. In town, two HKTB Visitor Centres are on both sides of the harbor. On the Kowloon side, a convenient office in Tsim Sha Tsui is right in the Star Ferry concourse, open daily from 8am to 8pm. On Hong Kong Island, you'll find a convenient office if you're going to Victoria Peak (and who isn't?), occupying a vintage tram car on the plaza outside the Peak Tower, that's open daily 9am to 9pm.

If you have a question about Hong Kong, you can also call the HKTB Visitor Hotline (tel. 852/2508 1234) daily from 9am to 6pm. After hours, a telephone-answering device will take your call and a member of HKTB will contact you the next day at your hotel.

In addition to HKTB's free map, HKTB publishes a wealth of free, excellent literature about Hong Kong. Visitor's Kit is a booklet that gives a brief rundown of Hong Kong's major tourist attractions and information on shopping and dining, while Hong Kong Kaleidoscope outlines HKTB's current free classes and seminars in its excellent "Meet the People" program. Discover Hong Kong by Rail is useful for trips to the New Territories, while Hong Kong Walks is designed for those who like to explore on foot. For families, the Hong Kong Family Fun Guide highlights children's sights and activities. In addition, invaluable leaflets are available showing the major bus routes throughout Hong Kong, including Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and the New Territories, and for current ferry schedules to the outlying islands.

If you're traveling with a Wi-Fi-enabled phone or laptop and want to know more about a landmark you're passing or a good spot for lunch, you can surf HKTB's website for free at more than 7,000 PCCW Wi-Fi hot spots around town, including most MTR platforms, Starbucks and Pacific Coffee outlets, 7-Eleven and Circle K convenience stores, and PCCW phone booths (browsing does not include hyperlinks to third-party websites). Through the service you can also download free tourist apps, such as the Hong Kong Mobile Travel Guide, with information on sightseeing, dining, and shopping.

To find out what's going on during your stay in Hong Kong, pick up HKTB's free weekly leaflet What's On -- Hong Kong, which tells what's happening in theater, music, and the arts, including concerts and special exhibitions in museums (you can also access HKTB's event calendar at www.discoverhongkong.com). Hong Kong's Leisure and Cultural Services Department (www.lcsd.gov.hk) also puts out its own monthly Event Calendar. The South China Morning Post, a local newspaper, carries an events and exhibition section in its Sunday edition. HK Magazine, aimed at a young expat readership and distributed free at restaurants, bars, and other outlets around town, is a weekly that lists what's going on at the city's theaters and other venues, including plays, concerts, exhibitions, the cinema, and events in Hong Kong's alternative scene. Where Hong Kong, CityLife, and bc are other free magazines published monthly with information on Hong Kong. Where Hong Kong and CityLife are distributed to guest rooms in major hotels and are also available at HKTB offices; bc is distributed to bookstores and restaurants.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Hong Kong can be a nightmare for travelers with disabilities. City sidewalks -- especially in Central and Kowloon -- can be so jam-packed that getting around on crutches or in a wheelchair is exceedingly difficult. Moreover, to cross busy thoroughfares it's often necessary to climb stairs to a pedestrian bridge. Also, most shops are a step or two up from the street, due to flooding during rainstorms.

As for transportation, taxis are probably the most convenient mode of transportation, especially since they can load and unload passengers with disabilities in restricted zones under certain conditions and do not charge extra for carrying wheelchairs and crutches. Otherwise, the MTR (subway) has wheelchair access (elevators, ramps, or other aids) at major stations, as well as tactile pathways leading to platforms and exits for the visually impaired. Ferries are accessible to wheelchair users on the lower deck, and approximately 40% of buses are wheelchair accessible. More information on transportation accessibility is available from the Transport Department, Floor 41, Immigration Tower, 7 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2804 2600; www.td.gov.hk), which publishes a booklet called A Guide to Public Transport for People with Disabilities, which can also be downloaded online (www.td.gov.hk/mini_site/people_with_disabilities). Another good source is the Hong Kong Society for Rehabilitation (tel. 852/2817 6277; www.rehabsociety.org.hk), which provides information on wheelchair accessibility not only for public transport services in Hong Kong but also for attractions, hotels, malls, and performing venues. It also provides a link to the Transport Department's guide at www.accessguide.hk.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

According to figures released by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, the average per capita spending of overnight visitors to Hong Kong is HK$5,700 per day on hotels, meals, shopping, and entertainment (frugal travelers, of course, can experience Hong Kong on much less). While Hong Kong may seem expensive compared to many other Asian cities, bargains abound, especially when it comes to off-season hotel rates, meals at local Chinese restaurants, public transportation, and museum admissions. In addition, because the Hong Kong dollar is pegged to U.S. currency, a falling U.S. dollar doesn't impact the cost of travel for Americans in Hong Kong compared to, say, Europe with the euro.

Currency

The basic unit of currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HK$), which is divided into 100 cents. Since 1983, when negotiations between Britain and China concerning Hong Kong's future sent public confidence and the value of the Hong Kong dollar into a nose dive, the Hong Kong dollar has been officially pegged to the U.S. dollar at a rate of 7.8 (which means that US$1 equals HK$7.80), giving the Hong Kong currency greater stability.

Three banks, the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC), the Bank of China, and the Standard Chartered Bank, all issue their own colorful notes, in denominations of HK$10, HK$20, HK$50, HK$100, HK$500, and HK$1,000. The government also issues a HK$10 note. As for coins, they're issued by the government in bronze for HK10¢, HK20¢, and HK50¢ pieces; in silver for HK$1, HK$2, and HK$5; and in nickel and bronze for HK$10.

Throughout the SAR, you'll see the dollar sign ("$"), which refers to Hong Kong dollars, not U.S. dollars. To prevent confusion, this guide identifies Hong Kong dollars with the symbol "HK$." Although the official conversion rate is pegged at 7.8, you'll receive slightly less at banks, hotels, and currency exchange offices.

When exchanging money in Hong Kong, you'll get the best rate at banks. The exchange rate can vary among banks, however, so it may pay to shop around if you're exchanging a large amount. In addition, most banks also charge commission, which can differ depending on whether you're exchanging cash or traveler's checks (a slightly higher commission is charged for traveler's checks, usually around HK$10 more). A check during my last visit revealed commissions ranging from HK$40 for cash at a Wing Lung Bank to HK$60 for traveler's checks at a Hang Seng Bank. On the other hand, the exchange rate is usually slightly better for traveler's checks than for cash. Others may not charge commission but have less favorable exchange rates.

Ask your hotel where the closest Hang Seng Bank (www.hangseng.com) or Wing Lung Bank (www.winglungbank.com) is, since I find these generally have favorable rates and lower commissions. The main bank of Wing Lung is at 45 Des Voeux Rd. Central in the Central District (tel. 852/2826 8333), with a convenient Tsim Sha Tsui branch at 4 Carnarvon Rd. (tel. 852/2369 9255). Hang Seng has a convenient location next to Kowloon Hotel at 4 Hankow Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2198 0575).

Hotels give a slightly less favorable exchange rate but are convenient because they're open at night and on weekends. Money changers are found in the tourist areas, especially along Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui. Avoid them if you can. They often charge a commission or a "changing fee," or give a much lower rate. Check exactly how much you'll get in return before handing over your money. If you exchange money at Hong Kong International Airport, change only what you need to get into town -- US$50 should be enough -- because the exchange rate here is lower than what you'll get at banks in town.

I always carry two credit cards (in case there happens to be a problem with one of them), cash, and, for additional safety, traveler's checks.

ATMs

The best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). There are ATMs throughout Hong Kong, making a credit or debit card the most convenient way to obtain cash since it eliminates the hassle of exchanging money only during banking hours. Be sure you know your four-digit personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Holders of MasterCard (using the Cirrus network) and Visa (using PLUS) can use ATMs at the airport and various convenient locations around the city, including the Star Ferry concourses in Kowloon and Central, all major MTR (subway) stations, and major banks such as the HSBC and Hang Seng Bank (which have 24-hr. machines). American Express cardholders should look for Aeon ATMs, located at MTR Stations, Circle K convenience stores, and other places around town (Visa and MasterCard holders can also use Aeon ATMs).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your four-digit PIN. Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Although many of the smaller shops in Hong Kong will give better prices if you pay in cash with local currency, most shops accept international credit cards, but some of the smaller ones do not. Look for credit card signs displayed on the front door or near the cash register. Readily accepted credit cards include American Express, Visa, and MasterCard. Note, however, that shops have to pay an extra fee for transactions that take place with a credit card -- and they will try to pass on that expense to you. Keep this in mind if you're bargaining, and make sure the shopkeeper knows whether you're going to pay with cash or plastic. All major hotels and better restaurants accept credit cards, but budget restaurants often don't. If you do pay with a credit card, check to make sure that "HK" appears before the dollar sign in the total amount.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

A vibrant, if not readily apparent, gay and lesbian community of expats and Chinese lives in Hong Kong. Discrimination is not a serious issue here, though, as in most places, you may encounter some less-than-open-minded people. Hong Kong has only a handful of openly gay establishments, concentrated mostly in the Lan Kwai Fong/SoHo nightlife districts, but several clubs have regular gay or lesbian nights. The monthly gay guide DS Magazine (www.dimsum-hk.com), is distributed free to clubs, bars, and other venues and has an events calendar. South Bay, a beach on the south end of Hong Kong Island, is popular with gays.

Health & Safety

The two major health concerns for travelers to Hong Kong in the past have been SARS and avian flu. At press time, however, neither has posed a threat for some time for those going to the SAR (yes, its name is an unfortunate coincidence). Hong Kong culled its entire poultry population several times after the first reported bird flu outbreak in 1997 (the last reported human case of avian flu in Hong Kong was in 2003), and importation of poultry from mainland China is immediately halted whenever any outbreaks occur there. In 2008, a ban on stocking live chickens overnight in Hong Kong's wet markets went into effect; that, together with a growing preference to shop in supermarkets for packaged meats, has greatly reduced the risk of another outbreak in Hong Kong.

As for SARS, there have been no major occurrences since the 2003 outbreak sickened 1,755 people in Hong Kong and killed 299 of them. However, because of other threats such as H1N1, Hong Kong monitors all passengers arriving by air, boat, and train by taking their temperatures with a thermal scan. Passengers with pneumonia or fever, as well as those arriving from infected areas, are kept under close monitoring or isolation. To avoid being unnecessarily detained, don't travel with a fever. As an extra precaution, you might wish to have a flu shot before departing for Hong Kong.

Once in Hong Kong, you'll notice dispensers for hand sanitizers virtually everywhere, including restrooms, shops, hotels, and other public places; because good hygiene is the best defense against infectious disease, wash your hands as often as you can.

The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country -- including the latest outbreaks of avian flu -- and offers tips on food safety. Health issues are also monitored by Hong Kong's Department of Health (tel. 852/2961 8989; www.dh.gov.hk).

Prescriptions can be filled at Hong Kong pharmacies only if they're issued by a local doctor. To avoid the hassle, be sure to bring more prescriptions than you think you'll need, clearly labeled in their original packages, and pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage. It's also a good idea to carry copies of your prescriptions in case you run out, including generic names in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Over-the-counter items are easy to obtain, though name brands may be different from those back home, and some ingredients allowed elsewhere may be forbidden in Hong Kong (and vice versa).

If you're traveling during the hot and humid summer months, limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and particularly from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor. To avoid dehydration, you should also carry a water bottle, especially when hiking.

Another concern when hiking in the New Territories or the islands is snakes. I've never seen one, but of Hong Kong's 49 native species, 9 are venomous.

If you have a respiratory illness, be forewarned that air pollution in Hong Kong has increased significantly in recent years, due mainly to growing manufacturing across the border and increased vehicular traffic. In addition to checking daily air quality reports in the South China Morning Post, you can also check the government's Environmental Protection Department website at www.epd-asg.gov.hk/eindex.php for the current and next day's forecast of the air pollution index.

Generally, you're safe eating anywhere in Hong Kong, even at roadside food stalls. Stay clear of local oysters and shellfish, however, and remember that many restaurants outside the major hotels and tourist areas use MSG in their dishes as a matter of course, especially fast-food restaurants and Chinese kitchens that import products from the mainland (some health experts, however, debunk the widely held Western belief that MSG can cause numbness, weakness, or other ailments). Water is safe to drink except in rural areas, where you should drink bottled water. Nonetheless, most upper-end and many medium-range hotels offer free bottled water in their guest rooms.

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Hong Kong has many Western-trained physicians. If you get sick, you may want to contact the concierge at your hotel -- some upper-range hotels have in-house doctors or clinics. Otherwise, your embassy in Hong Kong can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you still can't find a doctor who can help you right away, try the local hospital. Many have walk-in-clinics for cases that are not life threatening. Doctors and hospitals generally do not accept credit cards and require immediate cash payment for health services. If, on the other hand, you end up in the emergency room of a hospital, you're required to pay a set fee of HK$570 for its services, but if you cannot pay immediately you will be billed. 

Crime & Safety

Hong Kong is relatively safe for the visitor, especially if you use common sense and stick to such well-traveled nighttime areas as Tsim Sha Tsui, Lan Kwai Fong, Wan Chai, or Causeway Bay. On the other hand, the main thing you must guard against is pickpockets. They often work in groups to pick men's pockets or slit open a woman's purse, quickly taking the valuables and then relaying them on to accomplices who disappear in the crowd. Favored places are exactly those places where tourists are likely to be, namely Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Causeway Bay, and Wan Chai. You should also be on guard on crowded public conveyances such as the MTR and in public markets.

It's best to hike in groups of two or more as isolated cases of hikers being robbed in country parks and Victoria Peak have been known to occur.

To be on the safe side, keep your valuables in your in-room safe or hotel's safe-deposit box. If you need to carry your passport or large amounts of money, conceal everything in a money belt.

Fast Facts

Your hotel concierge or guest relations manager is usually a valuable source of information. The Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) is also well equipped and eager to help visitors and answer their questions.

Area Codes -- The area code for Hong Kong is 852. The area code for Macau is 853.

Business Hours -- Although open hours can vary, banking hours are generally Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm and Saturday from 9am to 12:30pm. Keep in mind, however, that some banks stop their transactions -- including foreign currency exchange -- an hour before closing time.

Most business offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, with lunch hour from 1 to 2pm; for those that have them (civil servants adopted a 5-day work week in 2006), Saturday business hours are generally 9am to 1pm.

Most shops are open 7 days a week. Shops in the Central District in Hong Kong are generally open from 10am to 7:30pm; in Causeway Bay and Wan Chai, 10am to 9:30pm; and in Tsim Sha Tsui, 10am to 9 or 10pm (and some even later than that). As for bars, most stay open until at least 2am; some stay open until the crack of dawn.

Dentists & Doctors -- Many first-class hotels have medical clinics with registered nurses, as well as doctors, on duty at specified hours or on call 24 hours for emergencies. Otherwise, the concierge can refer you to a doctor or dentist. The U.S. consulate (see "Embassies & Consulates") can also provide information on English-speaking doctors. If it's an emergency, dial tel. 999 (a free call) in both Hong Kong and Macau.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages (and tobacco) in Hong Kong and Macau is 18. Open hours for bars vary according to the district, though those around Lan Kwai Fong and Tsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong stay open the longest, often until dawn. In Macau, most every casino has at least one bar that is open 24 hours. Beer is available at convenience stores, including 7-Eleven, while a larger selection of beer, wine, and liquor is available from the basement food emporiums of department stores.

Drugstores -- Hong Kong does not have any 24-hour drugstores, so if you need something urgently in the middle of the night, you should contact one of the hospitals listed below. One of the best-known pharmacies in Hong Kong is Watson's, which dates back to the 1880s. Today, more than 100 Watson's are spread throughout Hong Kong, most of them open from 9am to 10pm. Ask the concierge at your hotel for the location of a Watson's or drugstore nearest you (only about half the Watson's dispense medicine; the rest deal only in cosmetics and toiletries). Note, however, that prescriptions can be filled only when ordered by a local doctor.

Macau also does not have 24-hour drugstores. Look for signs that say DROGARIA or FARMACIA, or ask your concierge for the location of the nearest drugstore.

Electricity -- The electricity used in both Hong Kong and Macau is 220 volts, alternating current (AC), 50 cycles (in the U.S. and Canada it's 110 volts and 60 cycles). Most laptop computers nowadays are equipped to deal with both 110 and 220 volts. Outlets are the British-style three-pin, rectangular plugs. Most hotels are equipped to fit shavers of different plugs and voltages, and higher-end hotels also have outlets with built-in plug adapters to fit foreign prongs. For cheaper hotels, ask your hotel whether it has a plug adapter you can use -- many often do, for free -- or bring your own.

Embassies & Consulates -- The following consulates are in Hong Kong. If you need to contact a consulate about an application for a visa, a lost passport, tourist information, or an emergency, telephone first to find out the hours of the various sections. The visa section, for example, may be open only during certain hours of the day. In addition, consulates are usually closed for their own national holidays and often for Hong Kong holidays as well.

The American Consulate, 26 Garden Rd., Central District (tel. 852/2523 9011; 852/2841 2211 for the American Citizens Service; http://hongkong.usconsulate.gov), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5:30pm; its hours of service for American citizens is Monday to Friday 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 4pm (closed Wed afternoon).

The Canadian Consulate, 12th-14th floors of Tower One, Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central District (tel. 852/3719 4700; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/hong_kong), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm.

The British Consulate, at 1 Supreme Court Rd., Central District (tel. 852/2901 3000; http://ukinhongkong.fco.gov.uk/en), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:15pm.

The Australian Consulate is on the 23rd floor of Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2827 8881; www.hongkong.china.embassy.gov.au), and is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

The New Zealand Consulate is on the 65th floor of Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2525 5044; www.nzembassy.com/hong-kong), and is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.

For information on visa applications to mainland China, contact a tour operator such as China Travel Service.

Emergencies -- All emergency calls in Hong Kong and Macau are free -- just dial tel. 999 for police, fire, or ambulance.

Holidays -- Most Chinese festival holidays are determined by the lunar calendar, which changes each year, while national and Christian religious holidays, such as Labour Day, Easter, or National Day, are the same each year. Note, however, that if a public holiday falls on a Sunday, Monday becomes a holiday.

Public holidays for 2011 are New Year's Day (Jan 1); Lunar New Year (Feb 3-5); Ching Ming Festival (Apr 5); Easter (Good Friday through Easter Monday, Apr 22-25); Labour Day (May 2); Buddha's Birthday (May 10); Tuen Ng Festival (Dragon Boat Festival, June 6); Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Establishment Day (Hong Kong's return to China, July 1); Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival (Sept 13); National Day (Oct 1); Chung Yeung Festival (Oct 5); and Christmas (Dec 25-27). For 2012 lunar holidays, which had not yet been announced at press time, go to www.info.gov.hk/about/abouthk/holiday.

Hospitals -- Hong Kong has more than 40 public hospitals. The following can help you round the clock: Queen Mary Hospital, 102 Pokfulam Rd., Hong Kong Island (tel. 852/2855 3838; www3.ha.org.hk/qmh/index.htm); and Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 30 Gascoigne Rd., Kowloon (tel. 852/2958 8888; www3.ha.org.hk/qeh/index.htm). 

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Languages -- Before the 1997 handover, English and Cantonese were Hong Kong's two official languages. Now, however, English and "Chinese" are listed as the two official languages. However, there is no one Chinese language. Most Hong Kong and Macau Chinese speak Cantonese, but in Beijing, where the official language is Mandarin (Putonghua), Cantonese is a foreign language. In reality, Mandarin has also become the official language of the SAR and is being taught in Hong Kong schools. At any rate, while Mandarin and Cantonese differ widely, they use the same characters for writing. Therefore, while a Hong Kong Chinese and a mainland Chinese may not be able to communicate orally, they can read each other's newspapers. Chinese characters number in the tens of thousands; knowledge of at least 2,500 characters is necessary to read a newspaper. Chinese is difficult to learn primarily because of the tonal variations. Western ears may find these differences in pronunciation almost impossible to detect, but a slight change in tone changes the whole meaning. One thing you'll notice, however, is that Chinese is spoken loudly -- whispering does not seem to be part of the language.

Despite the fact that English is an official language and is spoken in hotels and tourist shops, few Chinese outside these areas understand it. Bus drivers, taxi drivers, and waiters in many Chinese restaurants do not speak English and will simply shrug their shoulders to your query. To avoid confusion, have someone in your hotel write out your destination in Chinese so that you can show it to your taxi or bus driver (and don't forget to pick up your hotel's card in case you need to show it to a taxi driver for your return). Most Chinese restaurants in tourist areas -- and almost all those listed in this guide -- have English menus. If you need assistance, try asking younger Chinese, since it's more likely that they will have studied English in school.

If you'd like to learn some basic Cantonese before your trip, good choices are Conversational Cantonese Chinese (Pimsleur, 2006) and Berlitz Cantonese Chinese CD Travel Pack (Berlitz, 2003), since both include a CD so you can listen to the tonal differences. Or, to listen to a few key Cantonese phrases, go to HKTB's website at www.discoverhongkong.com and click "Plan Your Trip," then "About Hong Kong," and then "Languages."

Laundromats -- Hotels provide laundry service, though it's expensive. Only a few modestly priced accommodations catering to families have coin-operated washers and dryers. Otherwise, laundromats in Hong Kong and Macau are generally not self-service. Rather, you drop off your laundry and come back a few hours later to fetch your clothes neatly folded. If that's what you need, ask the concierge for the closest one. Clean Living (tel. 852/2333 0141; www.cleanliving.com.hk) is Hong Kong's largest laundry-service provider, with more than 30 branches open daily.

Legal Aid -- Contact your embassy if you find yourself in legal trouble. If you can't afford a solicitor (attorney), contact the Hong Kong government's Legal Aid Department, 24th to 27th floors of the Queensway Government Offices, 66 Queensway (tel. 852/2537 7677; www.lad.gov.hk), which provides legal aid to both residents and nonresidents who become involved in court proceedings, with fees based on a sliding scale according to the client's ability to pay. In addition, the Community Legal Information Centre provides useful information and legal advice on its website, www.hkclic.org, from how to obtain free legal advice to how to find a lawyer.

Lost & Found -- To report stolen or lost property, call the police: tel. 852/2527 7177 in Hong Kong; tel. 853/2857 3333 in Macau, or go to the nearest police station. If you've lost your passport, make a police report at the nearest station and then contact your embassy or consulate for a replacement. The minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, alert all of your credit card companies and file a report at the nearest police station. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's Hong Kong emergency number is tel. 800/900 782. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 852/2811 6122. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/966 677.

Luggage & Storage Lockers -- The best and most convenient place to store luggage is at your hotel, even if you plan on traveling to Macau or China for a couple of days. Otherwise, there are luggage-checking services ("left-luggage") at Hong Kong International Airport, Hong Kong Station, Kowloon Station, the Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island, and the China Hong Kong Terminal on Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Mail -- Postal service is cheap and reliable. Most hotels have stamps and can mail your letters for you. Otherwise, there are plenty of post offices throughout the SAR. Most are open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 5pm and Saturday from 9:30am to 1pm. The main post office is on Hong Kong Island at 2 Connaught Place, in the Central District (tel. 852/2921 2222), where you'll find stamps sold on the first floor (what those from the U.S. would call the second floor). If you don't know where you'll be staying in Hong Kong, you can have your mail sent to the main post office above as "Poste Restante," where it will be held for 2 months; when you come to collect it, be sure to bring your passport for identification. On the Kowloon side, the main post office is at 10 Middle Rd., which is 1 block north of Salisbury Road (tel. 852/2366 4111). Both are open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 6pm; in addition, the Central post office is open Sunday and holidays from 9am to 5pm, while the Tsim Sha Tsui post office is open Sunday from 9am to 2pm (closed holidays).

Mailboxes are green in Hong Kong. Airmail letters up to 20 grams and postcards cost HK$3 to the United States, Europe, or Australia. You can count on airmail letters to take about 5 to 7 days, sometimes longer, to reach the United States.

Prices for mailing packages vary as follows: Australia surface 5kg HK$181, 10kg HK$213, air 5kg HK$355, 10kg HK$645; U.K. surface 5kg HK$233, 10kg HK$271, air 5kg HK$454, 10kg HK$784; U.S. surface 5kg (11 lb.) HK$251, 10kg (22 lb.) HK$441, air 5kg HK$419, 10kg HK$799. For general inquiries, call tel. 852/2921 2222 or check www.hongkongpost.com/eng/index.htm.

Police -- You can reach the police for an emergency by dialing tel. 999, the same number as for a fire or an ambulance in Hong Kong and Macau. This is a free call. There's also a 24-hour crime hot line in Hong Kong (tel. 852/2527 7177).

Smoking -- Hong Kong is mostly smoke-free, rare in Asia. Smoking is prohibited in virtually all public places, including restaurants, bars, nightclubs, workplaces, shopping malls, and most outdoor areas like public beaches and large swaths of public parks. The fine if you're caught smoking is HK$1,500.

Though there's movement underfoot to ban smoking in Macau, it's currently permitted in public places.

Taxes -- Hong Kong is a duty-free port. In addition, since 2008 the 3% government tax has been waived for hotels and restaurants. A 10% service charge, however, is automatically added to bills for hotels, restaurants, and bars.

In Macau, also a duty-free port, hotels levy a 5% government tax and a 10% service charge on room rates. Restaurants also levy a 10% service charge, but government tax has been waived on the consumption of food and beverages.

Time -- Hong Kong and Macau are 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 13 hours ahead of New York, 14 hours ahead of Chicago, 16 hours ahead of Los Angeles, and 2 hours ahead of Sydney. Because Hong Kong does not have a daylight saving time, subtract 1 hour from the above times if you're calling the United States in the summer. Because Hong Kong is on the other side of the international date line, you lose 1 day when traveling from North America to Asia. Don't worry -- you gain it back when you return, which means that you arrive back home the same day you left Hong Kong.

Tipping -- Even though restaurants and bars will automatically add a 10% service charge to your bill, you're still expected to leave small change for the waiter (who may never see any of that automatic 10% service charge). A general rule of thumb is to leave 5%, but in most Chinese restaurants where meals are usually inexpensive (less than HK$100), it's acceptable to leave change up to HK$5. In the finest restaurants, you should leave 10%. If you're paying by credit card, pay a cash tip, because a gratuity put on a credit card is likely to go to the restaurant and not the staff.

You're also expected to tip taxi drivers, bellhops, barbers, and beauticians. For taxi drivers, add up to the nearest HK$1, or, for longer hauls, round up to the nearest HK$5; for a HK$23 fare, for example, round up to HK$25. Tip people who cut your hair 5% or 10%, and give bellhops HK$10 to HK$20, depending on the number of your bags. Chambermaids and room attendants are usually given about 2% of the room charge.

Toilets -- The best places to track down public facilities in Hong Kong and Macau are its many hotels, fast-food restaurants, and shopping malls. Attendants on duty nowadays rarely expect tips, but if you encounter one who does, HK$2 is sufficient. Note that the MTR subway stations do not have public facilities. Hotels and tourist sites usually have Western toilets, but you may encounter Chinese toilets on ferries and in rural areas. To use them, squat facing the hood. Since some public facilities may not have toilet paper, be sure to carry tissue (in rural areas, a communal roll of toilet paper may be hanging outside the stalls).

Useful Phone Numbers & Websites -- The Hong Kong Tourism Board's hot line is tel. 852/2508 1234, with service available daily from 9am to 6pm. The Police Crime Hotline is tel. 852/2527 7177. Other useful numbers and websites are:

• Hong Kong's Department of Health tel. 852/2961 8989; www.dh.gov.hk
• Hong Kong Telephone Directory Enquiries tel. 1081 for local numbers, tel. 10013 for international numbers
• Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Government www.gov.hk

Visas -- No visas are required for citizens of the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, New Zealand, or Australia. For more information, go to www.gov.hk/en/nonresidents.

Water -- It's considered safe to drink urban tap water in Hong Kong and Macau, though most people prefer bottled water, which is widely available. In summer it's wise to carry bottled water with you. Some hotels have their own purification systems; many more provide a free bottle of water in their rooms. I always drink the water and have never gotten ill. If you travel into rural Hong Kong or China, however, drink only bottled water.

Weather -- If you want to check the day's temperature and humidity level in Hong Kong or the 2-day forecast, dial tel. 187 8200 for a free weather report in English. Otherwise, if a storm is brewing and you're worried about a typhoon, tune in to one of Hong Kong's English-language TV channels, either TVB Pearl or ATV World, or go to the Hong Kong Observatory's website at www.hko.gov.hk.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Hong Kong Island

Central District -- This is where the story of Hong Kong begins. A small port and community were established here, on the north end of the island, by the British in the 1840s. Named "Victoria" in honor of the British queen, the community quickly grew into one of Asia's most important financial and business districts, with godowns (waterfront warehouses) lining the harbor. Today the area known as the Central District -- but usually referred to simply as "Central" -- remains Hong Kong's nerve center for banking, business, and administration. If there is a heart of Hong Kong, it surely lies here, but a few traces of its colonial past remain.

The Central District's glass and steel high-rises represent some of Hong Kong's most innovative architecture, including some of the SAR's most posh hotels, priciest shopping centers, and office buildings. Restaurants and bars here cater to Hong Kong's white-collar workers, primarily in the nightlife districts known as Lan Kwai Fong and SoHo. Although hotel choices in Central are limited to the upper range, staying here makes you feel like a resident yourself, as you rub elbows with the well-dressed professional crowds. Yet Central is also packed with traditional Chinese restaurants, an outdoor market, and the neon signs of family-run businesses. Trams -- certainly one of Hong Kong's most endearing sights -- chug their way straight through Central. The neighborhood even has oases of greenery at Chater Garden; the Zoological and Botanical Gardens; and Hong Kong Park, with its museum of tea ware housed in Hong Kong's oldest colonial-age building. By the way, that construction mess you see along the harbor is being transformed into a new Central waterfront that will contain public spaces and office buildings.

Lan Kwai Fong -- Named after an L-shaped street in Central, this is Hong Kong's premier nightlife and entertainment district, occupying not only Lan Kwai Fong but also neighboring streets like D'Aguilar, Wyndham, and other hillside streets. Filled with restaurants and bars in all price categories, it's a melting pot for people mostly in their 20s and 30s, from expat bankers and chuppies (Chinese yuppies) to Chinese nouveau riche and backpackers. The action -- whether it's in a bar with live music and standing room only or in the streets packed with revelers -- continues till dawn.

Victoria Peak -- Hong Kong's most famous mountaintop, Victoria Peak has long been Hong Kong's most exclusive address, ringed by gated villas. Cooler than the steamy streets of Central below, Victoria Peak, often called simply the Peak, was the exclusive domain of the British and other Europeans -- even nannies had to have the governor's permission to go there, and the only way up was by sedan carried by coolies or by hiking. Today, the Peak is much more easily accessible thanks to the Peak Tram, and it affords Hong Kong's best views of Central, Victoria Harbour, and Kowloon. Also on the Peak are shops, restaurants, and multimillion-dollar mansions, glimpses of which can be had on a circular 1-hour walk around the Peak. Check the weather, however, before making the trek -- hazy skies can render views disappointing, if nonexistent.

Mid-levels -- Located above Central on the slope of Victoria Peak, the Mid-Levels has long been a popular residential area for Hong Kong's yuppies and expatriate community. Its swank apartment buildings, grand sweeping views, lush vegetation, and slightly cooler temperatures make it a much-sought-after address. To serve the army of white-collar workers who commute down to Central every day, the world's longest escalator links the Mid-Levels with Central, an ambitious project with 20-some escalators and moving sidewalks (all free) stretching a half-mile (board and exit as you wish).

SoHo -- This dining and nightlife district, flanking the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator, is popular with area residents and those seeking a quieter, saner alternative to the crowds of Lan Kwai Fong. Dubbed SoHo for the region "south of Hollywood Road," it's an ever-growing neighborhood of cafe-bars and intimate restaurants specializing in ethnic and innovative cuisine, making it one of the most exciting destinations on Hong Kong's culinary and nightlife map. Most establishments center on Elgin, Shelley, and Staunton streets. North of Hollywood Road, referred to as NoHo, also boasts a growing number of bars and restaurants.

Western District -- Located west of Central, the Western District was the traditional commercial center for Chinese businesses. Spreading over a large area that includes Sai Ying Pun, Sheung Wan, and Kennedy Town, it's a fascinating neighborhood of Chinese shops and enterprises and is one of the oldest, most traditional areas on Hong Kong Island. I've spent days wandering its narrow streets and inspecting shops selling traditional herbs, ginseng, medicines, dried fish, antiques, and other Chinese products. Unfortunately, modernization has taken its toll, and more of the old Western District seems to vanish every year, replaced by new high-rises and other developments.

Sheung Wan -- This neighborhood in the Western District, bordered by Victoria Harbour to the north, Central to the east, Sai Ying Pun to the west, and the Mid-Levels to the south, is home to an MTR station (Sheung Wan station) and the Macau Ferry Terminal. This is where the British landed, in 1842, on what is now called Possession Street. Sheung Wan is most famous, however, for Hollywood Road and its many antiques and curio shops, Ladder Street with its grueling staircase, and Man Mo Temple, one of Hong Kong's oldest temples.

Admiralty -- Actually part of the Central District, Admiralty is located just below Hong Kong Park, centered around an MTR subway station of the same name. It consists primarily of tall office buildings and Pacific Place, a classy shopping complex flanked by four deluxe hotels. On the waterfront is Tamar, former home of the British naval station, now being redeveloped as new government headquarters.

Wan Chai -- Located east of Central, few places on Hong Kong Island have changed as dramatically or noticeably as Wan Chai in recent decades. Notorious after World War II for its sleazy bars, tattoo parlors, and sailors on shore leave looking for a good time, it also served as a popular destination for American servicemen on R & R during the Vietnam War. Richard Mason's 1957 novel The World of Suzie Wong takes place in this bygone era of Wan Chai. Although a somewhat raunchy nightlife remains along Lockhart, Jaffe, and Luard roads, most of Wan Chai has slowly become respectable (and almost unrecognizable) over the past few decades, with the addition of mostly business-style hotels, more high-rises, the Hong Kong Arts Centre, the Academy for Performing Arts, and the huge Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, a familiar sight on the waterfront with its curved roof and glass facade. Near the convention center is Star Ferry service to Tsim Sha Tsui.

Causeway Bay -- Just east of Wan Chai, this is a popular shopping destination for locals. The whole area was once a bay, until land reclamation turned the water into soil decades ago. Now it's a busy area of department stores; clothing and accessory boutiques; street markets; the Times Square shopping complex; and restaurants. On its eastern perimeter is the large Victoria Park.

Happy Valley -- Once a swampland, Happy Valley's main claim to fame is its racetrack, built in 1846 -- the oldest racetrack in Asia outside of China.

Aberdeen -- On the south side of Hong Kong Island, Aberdeen was once a fishing village but is now studded with high-rises and housing projects. However, it is still known for its hundreds of sampans, junks, boat people, and huge floating restaurant. Just to the east, in Deep Water Bay, is Ocean Park, with its impressive aquarium and amusement rides.

Stanley -- Once a fishing village, Stanley is now a lively center for its market selling everything from silk suits to name-brand shoes, casual wear, and souvenirs. It's located on the quiet south side of Hong Kong Island with a popular public beach, a Chinese and expat neighborhood, a maritime museum, and trendy restaurants strung along a waterfront promenade.

Kowloon Peninsula

Tsim Sha Tsui -- At the southern tip of Kowloon Peninsula is Tsim Sha Tsui (also spelled "Tsimshatsui"), which, after Central, rates as Hong Kong's most important area for tourists. This is where most visitors stay and spend their money, since it has the greatest concentration of hotels, restaurants, and shops. In fact, some Hongkongers avoid Tsim Sha Tsui like the plague, calling it the "tourist ghetto." On the other hand, it does boast a cultural center, a great art museum, Kowloon Park, one of the world's largest shopping malls, a nice selection of international restaurants, a jumping nightlife, and Nathan Road, appropriately nicknamed the "golden mile of shopping."

Tsim Sha Tsui East -- Not surprisingly, this neighborhood is east of Tsim Sha Tsui. Built entirely on reclaimed land, the area has become increasingly important, home to a rash of expensive hotels, shopping and restaurant complexes, and science and history museums. Its East Tsim Sha Tsui Station, connected to Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station via underground passageway, provides direct train service to Hung Hom Station and onward to mainland China.

Jordan & Yau Ma Tei -- If you get on the subway in Tsim Sha Tsui and ride two stations to the north (or walk for about 25 min. straight up Nathan Rd.), you'll reach the Yau Ma Tei district (also spelled "Yaumatei"). In between Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei is Jordan. The area has an interesting produce market, jade market, and fascinating Temple Street Night Market. Several modestly priced hotels are located here, making this a good alternative to tourist-oriented Tsim Sha Tsui.

Mong Kok -- On Kowloon Peninsula north of Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok is a residential and industrial area, home of the Bird Market, the Ladies' Market on Tung Choi Street, and countless shops catering to Chinese. Its northern border, Boundary Street, marks the beginning of the New Territories.

Tips for Single Travelers

You shouldn't have any problems as a single traveler to Hong Kong. Nearly every time I come here, I travel alone. The biggest problem is one of expense, since many hotels charge the same regardless of whether it's for single or double occupancy. The other problem is Chinese food -- it's best when enjoyed with a group. Try fixed-price meals or all-you-can-eat buffets when dining alone, or join one of the organized tours where meals are often included.

Female travelers may also want to check out the website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. They have a special section called "GirlTalk Hong Kong," which carries tips on accommodations, restaurants, shopping, things to do, what to wear, and details of venues where solo female travelers will feel at home, submitted by women who have traveled to Hong Kong.

Getting There

With dozens of airlines and half a dozen cruise lines serving Hong Kong from around the world, it's certainly not difficult to get there. Your itinerary, the amount of time you have, and your pocketbook will probably dictate how you travel. Below are some pointers to get you headed in the right direction.

By Plane

Because the flight to Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) is such a long one (almost 16 hr. from Chicago, 12 hr. from London, and 9 hr. from Sydney), you may wish to splurge for a roomier seat and upgraded service, including special counters for check-in, private lounges at the airport, and better meals, as well as a higher ticket price when choosing your carrier. You should also consider a mileage program, because this round-trip flight will earn you a lot of miles.

Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong's flagship airline, offers the most flights, with connections from North America, the United Kingdom, and Australia. Dragonair is a Hong Kong-based airline that serves many cities in Asia. Likewise, sister airlines Hong Kong Airlines and Hong Kong Express are both based in Hong Kong and service some 30 cities in Asia.

Arriving at Hong Kong International Airport -- No one who ever flew into Hong Kong's former Kai Tak Airport could likely forget the experience of landing in one of the world's most densely populated cities. The runway extended out into the bay, past apartments so close you could almost reach out and touch the laundry fluttering from the bamboo poles.

But Kai Tak, which ranked as the world's third-busiest airport in 1996, was retired in 1998. Taking its place is Hong Kong International Airport (tel. 852/2181 8888; www.hongkongairport.com), more than four times the size of Kai Tak when it opened and now consisting of two terminals. Situated just north of Lantau Island on reclaimed land, about 32km (20 miles) from Hong Kong's central business district, the state-of-the-art airport is one of the world's most user-friendly.

Regardless of which terminal you arrive at, after Customs you'll find yourself in the arrivals hall. One of the first things you should do is stop by one of three Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) Visitor Centres, where you can pick up maps, sightseeing brochures, and a wealth of other information, as well as get directions to your hotel. They're open daily from 7am to 11pm. The computers at iCyberLink provide access to www.discoverhongkong.com 24 hours a day.

Also in the arrivals hall is the counter of the Hong Kong Hotel Association (tel. 852/2383 8380 or 852/2769 8822; www.hkha.com.hk), where you can book a room in one of its 100-some member hotels without paying a service fee; it's open daily from 7am to midnight. You won't find any rock-bottom prices here, but they can book rooms in several low-priced lodgings.

If you plan on traveling to Macau sometime during your stay in Hong Kong, stop by the Macau tourist information counter, in the arrivals lobby of Terminal 1, at AO6; it's open daily from 9am to 1pm, 1:45 to 6pm, and 6:45 to 10pm. However, if you are traveling directly to Macau from Hong Kong International Airport via the Ferry Transfer service, do not pass through immigration. Rather, follow the signs FERRIES TO MAINLAND/MACAU to the ferry ticketing counter, where you can purchase ferry tickets and proceed directly to the ferry pie.

You can exchange money at the arrivals hall, but because the rate here is rather unfavorable, it's best to exchange only what you need to get into town -- about US$50 should do it.

If you need to leave luggage at the airport, a luggage-storage counter is located on the departure floor. Other facilities include a post office, a medical center, shops, and restaurants. Wi-Fi is available free throughout the entire airport.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- The quickest way to get to downtown Hong Kong is via the sleek Airport Express Line (tel. 852/2881 8888; www.mtr.com.hk), which you'll spot straight ahead of you after passing Customs and entering the arrivals hall. Trains run every 12 minutes between 5:50am and 1:15am and take 20 minutes to reach Kowloon Station (off Jordan Rd. and accessible to hotels in Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei) and 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong Station, on Hong Kong Island in the Central District. From both Kowloon and Hong Kong stations, free Airport Express Shuttle Bus service transfers passengers to most major hotels, departing every 12 to 20 minutes between 6:12am and 11:12pm (see www.mtr.com.hk for a list of hotels served). Otherwise, taxis are readily available from both stations.

Fares for the Airport Express are HK$90 to Kowloon and HK$100 to Central; round-trip tickets are HK$160 and HK$180, respectively. Or, if you're in Hong Kong fewer than 14 days, consider purchasing the tourist-only Airport Express Travel Pass for HK$300, which includes round-trip fare from and to the airport and allows unlimited travel by public transportation for 3 days; one-way airport travel plus the 3 days unlimited public transportation will only set you back HK$220. 

In addition to the Airport Express train, dedicated airport buses connect the airport with major downtown Hong Kong areas. Easiest if you have lots of luggage is the Airport Hotelink (tel. 852/3193 9333; www.trans-island.com.hk), which provides door-to-door service between the airport and 100-some hotels. Tickets, available at counter B01 near exit B of the arrival hall, cost HK$130 to Kowloon and HK$150 to Hong Kong Island, with buses departing every 30 to 60 minutes. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes to reach Tsim Sha Tsui, depending on the traffic.

Slower and cheaper, with more stops along major streets near hotels, are Cityflyer buses operated by Citybus (tel. 852/2873 0818; www.nwstbus.com.hk) and city buses operated by Long Win (tel. 852/2745 4466; www.kmb.hk), both with ticket counters in the arrivals hall (if you pay onboard, you must have exact fare or use an Octopus card). Most important for tourists are bus A21, which travels through Mong Kok, Yau Ma Tei, Jordan, and down Nathan Road through Tsim Sha Tsui on its way to Hung Hom Station; and A11, which travels to Hong Kong Island, with stops in Central, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, and North Point. Buses depart every 10 to 30 minutes from about 6am to midnight, with fares costing HK$33 to Kowloon and HK$40 to Central and Causeway Bay. There's also night bus service, with N21 traveling to Tsim Sha Tsui and N11 traveling to Hong Kong Island.

The easiest way to travel from the airport, of course, is to simply jump in a taxi, since taxis are quite cheap in Hong Kong but expensive for the long haul from the airport. Depending on traffic and your final destination, a taxi to Tsim Sha Tsui costs approximately HK$300 and takes 30 to 45 minutes, while a taxi to the Central District will cost about HK$365 and will take 35 to 50 minutes. An extra luggage charge of HK$5 applies to each piece of baggage.

Departing from the Airport -- Passengers flying Cathay Pacific, Continental, Delta, United, Virgin Atlantic, and many other airlines are offered the extra benefit of being allowed to check in for return flights at one of two satellite train stations -- at Hong Kong Station in Central and at Kowloon Station, both served by the Airport Express Line and subway lines. Both allow you advance check-in any time from 24 hours to 90 minutes before your flight: You'll get your boarding pass, and your bags will be transferred to the airport. In addition, a left-luggage service is available at both stations, daily 6am to 1am and useful if your flight is later in the day and you want to do some sightseeing before heading for the airport. Rates per piece of luggage weighing up to 30kg (66 lbs.) are HK$40 for up to 3 hours and HK$55 for 3 to 24 hours.

If you travel directly to the airport and go through check-in there, plan on arriving about 2 hours before departure of your flight.

A final note about departing: Travelers may not bring sharp objects (knives, cutters, scissors, razor blades, household cutlery) in their carry-on but may pack them in checked bags. Also, gels, aerosols, and liquids in carry-on baggage are limited to containers not more than 100ml (3 oz.) and must fit into one quart-size clear plastic bag; otherwise, check it or it will be confiscated.

By Train

It's unlikely you'll arrive in the SAR by train, unless, of course, you're traveling via China. The Beijing-Kowloon Intercity Through Train provides a direct link between the two cities in approximately 24 hours. One-way tickets cost HK$1,191 for a bed in a deluxe, two-bed cabin, HK$934 for a "soft bed" in a four-bed cabin, and HK$574 for a "hard bed" in a six-bed cabin. Service is also available from Shanghai in about 19 hours (HK$508-HK$1,039 one-way) and from Guangzhou (formerly Canton; HK$190-HK$230 one-way) and taking less than 2 hours.

The end terminus for train travel to Hong Kong is Hung Hom in Kowloon, with Mass Transit Railway (MTR) service onward to East Tsim Sha Tsui Station with its many underground passageways to area hotels.

By Boat

Some 30 international cruise ships make Hong Kong a port of call each year. The SAR's main docking facility for cruise liners is Ocean Terminal, located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui and part of a massive shopping complex which includes 700 shops and 50 restaurants. Just a stone's throw away is the Star Ferry with service to Hong Kong Island. To accommodate growing demand, another cruise terminal is planned for the former Kai Tak airport runway, with a scheduled opening in 2013.

Extensive ferry service from neighboring Guangdong Province, across the border in mainland China, is offered by the Chu Kong Passenger Transport Co. (tel. 852/2858 3876; www.cksp.com.hk). Ferries from Nan Hai (port of call for Guangzhou), Zhu Hai, Shantou, Sanbu, and a dozen other cities arrive at the China HK Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui.

TurboJet (tel. 852/2859 3333; www.turbojet.com.hk) operates jetfoil service from Macau and Shenzhen to the Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island, with MTR connection to the rest of the city. A limited number of jetfoils also go to the China HK Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui.

By Bus

The CTS Express Coach, a branch of the China Travel Service (tel. 852/3604 0118; http://ctsbus.hkcts.com), operates an extensive fleet of cross-boundary buses that travel some 90 routes between Hong Kong, Macau, and destinations in Shenzhen and Guangdong, with numerous departures daily. Buses from Guangzhou to Wan Chai MTR station, for example, cost HK$80 one-way.