Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since the 1970s, the Castro has acted as the city’s center of gay life and nightlife in the city—though with society’s changing norms, gay life has become less centralized (some might say less ghettoized) over the years. For some gay travelers, this is still The Place to Be, especially on a festival weekend, when the streets are filled with out-and-proud revelry; for others, the neighborhood is a quaint relic of the past to be visited occasionally (while shielding their children’s eyes from the sex toys in the shop windows). For other San Franciscans and many travelers, it’s a fun area with some wonderful shops.

Gays and lesbians make up a good portion of San Francisco’s population, so it’s no surprise that clubs and bars all over town cater to them. Although lesbian interests are concentrated primarily in the East Bay (especially Oakland), a significant community resides in the Mission District, around 16th and Valencia streets, in Hayes Valley, and Bernal Heights.

Several local publications concentrate on in-depth coverage of news, information, and listings of goings-on around town for gays and lesbians. The “Bay Area Reporter” (www.ebar.com) has the most comprehensive listings, including a weekly calendar of events. Distributed free on Thursday, it can be found stacked at the corner of 18th and Castro streets and at Ninth and Harrison streets, as well as in bars, bookshops, and stores around town. It may also be available in gay and lesbian bookstores elsewhere in the country.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) lists gay-friendly hotels, B&B’s, travel agents, and tour operators. San Francisco Travel (www.sanfrancisco.travel/lgbt) has put together LGBT itineraries, and can help you plan your wedding in the city. Gay.com Travel (www.gay.com) owns Out Traveler (www.outtraveler.com). Both provide regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every popular destination worldwide, including, of course, San Francisco. Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. San Francisco–based Now.Voyager (www.nowvoyager.com) has been making travel arrangements for the LGBT community for nearly 30 years. Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations, as well as airline discounts. The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.com) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world. For travel guides, try “Spartacus International Gay Guide” (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide), or the Damron guides (www.damron.com), both with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians. San Francisco Pride (www.sfpride.org/travel) is another good resource for LGBT friendly travel in the city. For more gay and lesbian travel resources, visit Frommers.com.

Parking

San Francisco occupies the tip of a 32-mile-long peninsula between San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Its land area measures about 46 square miles, although the city is often referred to as being 7 square miles. At more than 900 feet high, towering Twin Peaks (which are, in fact, two neighboring peaks), mark the geographic center of the city and make a great place to take in a vista of San Francisco.

With lots of one-way streets, San Francisco might seem confusing at first, but it will quickly become easy to navigate. The city’s downtown streets are arranged in a simple grid pattern, with the exceptions of Market Street and Columbus Avenue, which cut across the grid at right angles to each other. Hills appear to distort this pattern, however, and can disorient you. As you learn your way around, the hills will become your landmarks and reference points.

Main Arteries & Streets -- is downtown San Francisco’s main thoroughfare. Most of the city’s buses travel this route on their way to the Financial District from the outer neighborhoods to the west and south. The tall office buildings clustered downtown are at the northeast end of Market; 1 block beyond lies the Embarcadero and the bay.

The Embarcadero—an excellent strolling, skating, and biking route—curves along San Francisco Bay from south of the Bay Bridge near the Giants’ home at AT&T Park to the northeast perimeter of the city. It terminates at the famous tourist-oriented Fisherman’s Wharf. Aquatic Park, Fort Mason, and Golden Gate National Recreation Area are on the northernmost point of the peninsula.

From the eastern perimeter of Fort Mason, Van Ness Avenue runs due south, back to Market Street. This area forms a rough triangle, with Market Street as its southeastern boundary, the waterfront as its northern boundary, and Van Ness Avenue as its western boundary. Within this triangle lie most of the city’s main tourist sights.

Another main artery, which is less on the tourist track, is Geary Boulevard, which stretches from Union Square, through the bedroom-community Richmond District, and all the way out to Ocean Beach.

Tips for Student Travelers

Tips for Families

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (http://myfamilytravels.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Health & Safety

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable healthcare plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com ”tips and tools,” then “insurance” for detailed information.

Safety

For a big city, San Francisco is relatively safe and requires only that you use common sense (for example, don’t leave your new video camera on the seat of your parked car). However, in neighborhoods such as Lower Haight, the Mission, the Tenderloin (a few blocks west of Union Square), and Fisherman’s Wharf (at night especially), it’s a good idea to pay attention to yourself and your surroundings.

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and don’t display expensive cameras or electronic equipment. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.

Remember also that hotels are open to the public, and in a large hotel, security may not be able to screen everyone entering. Always lock your room door—don’t assume that inside your hotel you are automatically safe.

Driving safety is important, too. Ask your rental agency about personal safety, and ask for a traveler-safety brochure when you pick up your car. Ask for written directions to your destination or a map with the route clearly marked. (Many agencies offer the option of renting a cellphone for the duration of your car rental; check with the rental agent when you pick up the car.) Try to arrive and depart during daylight hours.

Recently, more crime has involved cars and drivers. If you drive off a highway into a doubtful neighborhood, leave the area as quickly as possible. If you have an accident, even on the highway, stay in your car with the doors locked until you assess the situation or until the police arrive. If you’re bumped from behind on the street or are involved in a minor accident with no injuries, and the situation appears to be suspicious, motion to the other driver to follow you. Never get out of your car in such situations. Go directly to the nearest police precinct, well-lit service station, or 24-hour store.

Always try to park in well-lit and well-traveled areas. Never leave any packages or valuables in sight. If someone attempts to rob you or steal your car, don’t try to resist the thief or carjacker. Report the incident to the police department immediately by calling tel. 911. This is a free call, even from pay phones.

When to Go

If you’re dreaming of convertibles, Frisbee on the beach, and tank-topped evenings, change your reservations and head to Los Angeles. Contrary to California’s sunshine-and-bikini image, San Francisco’s weather is “mild” (to put it nicely) and can often be downright bone-chilling because of the wet, foggy air and cool winds. Summer, the most popular time to visit, is often the coldest time of year, with damp, foggy days; cold, windy nights; and crowded tourist destinations. A good bet is to visit in spring or, better yet, autumn. Just about every September, right about the time San Franciscans mourn being cheated (or fogged) out of another summer, something wonderful happens: The thermometer rises, the skies clear, and the locals call in sick to work and head for the beach. It’s what residents call “Indian summer.” The city is also delightful during winter: the opera and ballet seasons are in full swing, hotel prices dip because there are fewer tourists, and downtown bustles with holiday cheer.

San Francisco’s temperate, marine climate usually means relatively mild weather year-round. In summer, chilling fog rolls in most mornings and evenings, and if temperatures top 70F (21C), the city is ready to throw a celebration. Even when autumn’s heat occasionally stretches into the 80s (upper 20s Celsius) and 90s (lower 30s Celsius), you should still dress in layers, or by early evening you’ll learn firsthand why sweatshirt sales are a great business at Fisherman’s Wharf. In winter, the mercury seldom falls below freezing and snow is almost unheard of, but that doesn’t mean you won’t be whimpering if you forget your coat. Still, compared to most of the state’s weather conditions, San Francisco’s are consistently pleasant, and even if it’s damp and chilly, head north, east, or south 15 minutes and you can usually find sun again.

If you’re heading up to the wine country, you’ll find that summertime is ludicrously busy, with endless traffic on the counties’ two-lane roads. Still, the scenery is gorgeous then, with grapes hanging heavy on the vine, and it’s also the season for garden tours. Grapes are harvested and squeezed in the fall and, alas, this time can also be maddening, because people flock here to witness the action involved in harvest and the resulting winemaking. I’m a fan of visiting in winter: Tourists tend to stay away then, so you’ll get much more attention and education from the vintners, hotel prices (notoriously expensive) are way down, and it’s easier to get restaurant reservations. Plus it’s extremely romantic then, with the nip of winter, the dormant grapevines, and twinkle lights illuminating various nooks and crannies. Spring is a close second, when the area bursts with the green and yellow of mustard flowers. It’s never terribly cold—wine country everywhere, by definition, has mostly enviable weather, because that’s what makes it good for grape growing.

In a Fog 

San Francisco’s infamous coastal fog is caused by a rare combination of water, wind, and topography. The fog lies in wait off the coast; rising air currents pull it in when the land heats up. Held back by coastal mountains along a 600-mile front, the low clouds seek out any passage they can find. And where’s the easiest access? It’s the slot where the Pacific Ocean penetrates the continental wall—also known as the Golden Gate.

Travel Attire

Even if it’s sunny out, don’t forget to bring a jacket and dress in layers; the weather can change almost instantly from sunny and warm to windy and cold—especially as you move between microclimates. Also bring comfortable walking shoes or your feet will pay the price.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years).

Getting There

By Plane

The northern Bay Area has two major airports: San Francisco International and Oakland International. Fifty major scheduled carriers serve San Francisco International Airport (SFO; flysfo.com), 12 miles directly south of downtown on U.S. Route 101. Drive time to downtown during rush hour is about 40 minutes; at other times, it’s about 20 minutes. Ten miles south of downtown Oakland, at the Hegenberger Road exit from Interstate 880 (if heading north, take the 98th Avenue exit), Oakland International Airport (OAK; oaklandairport.com) has traditionally served passengers with East Bay destinations, but many San Franciscans prefer this less-crowded, more accessible airport; it takes about 35 minutes to get there from downtown San Francisco (traffic permitting). From either airport, you can also ride BART, an aboveground rail and subway system, to downtown San Francisco and the East Bay. For transportation details, see “Getting Into Town,” below.

Traffic Alert

Call tel. 511 or visit www.511.org for up-to-the-minute information about public transportation and traffic.

Arriving at the Airport

Wherever you’re coming from, international travelers arriving by air should be prepared for the possibility of delays when arriving in the United States. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security at immigrations checkpoints, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours. You can try speeding up this process by enrolling in the Global Entry program (globalentry.gov), which allows expedited entry for pre-approved travelers. 

Getting into Town

From San Francisco International

One of the fastest and cheapest ways to get from SFO to the city is to take BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit; bart.gov; tel. 415/989-2278), which offers numerous stops within downtown San Francisco. This route, which takes about 35 minutes, avoids traffic and costs a heck of a lot less than taxis or shuttles. A BART ticket costs $8.95 (children under 4 ride free) for a one-way ride from SFO to the Embarcadero stop. Just jump on the airport’s free shuttle bus to the international terminal, enter the BART station there, and you’re on your way to San Francisco. Trains leave approximately every 15 minutes during operating hours (weekdays 4am–midnight, Sat 6am–midnight, and Sun 8am–midnight).

A taxicab from SFO to Fisherman’s Wharf costs about $60, plus tip, and takes around 30 minutes, traffic permitting. You can also opt for Uber and Lyft—taxi-like ride-service apps accessed only via cellphone. (If you don’t have their apps on your smartphone and you plan on cabbing it, definitely download them, as they’ll save you money to and from the airport as well as getting around town.) 

SuperShuttle (supershuttle.com; tel. 800/BLUE-VAN [258-3826]) offers door-to-door airport service in a shared van with a few other passengers. Simply wait at the designated SuperShuttle pick-up spot outside the terminal. They will take you anywhere in the city, charging $17 per person to a residence or business; each additional person going to the same location is usually charged $8. (The same goes for the return trip to the airport.) Reservations are required for the return trip to the airport and should be made 1 day before departure. While the shuttle service usually works well, keep in mind that you could be the first one picked up and the last one dropped off, depending on your destination, so this trip could take a while. For $74, you can charter the entire van for up to 10 people, or reserve an ExecuCar private sedan ($65) for up to three people.

The San Mateo County Transit system, SamTrans (samtrans.com; tel. 800/660-4287), runs two buses between SFO and Mission and 7th streets. Bus 292 costs $2.25 and makes the trip in about 45 minutes. Check the SamTrans site for schedules. 

From Oakland International

The cheapest way to reach downtown San Francisco is to take BART from the Oakland Airport to the Coliseum station in Oakland, where you can transfer to any San Francisco–bound train. BART trains leave the airport every 6 minutes from 5am to 11pm on weekdays, 6am to 11pm on Saturdays, and 8am to 11pm on Sundays; between 11pm and midnight, they run every 20 minutes. The Oakland Airport BART station is located right across from the Terminal 1 baggage claim and a short walk from Terminal 2. BART fares vary depending on your destination, but the trip to any of the downtown San Francisco stations costs $10.20 one way (children 4 and under ride free). The entire excursion should take around 45 minutes. 

A taxicab from OAK to Fisherman’s Wharf costs about $70, plus tip, and takes around 40 minutes, traffic permitting.

By Car

San Francisco is easily accessible by major highways. I-5, which runs north-south, connects to I-80 and I-580, which head into San Francisco; U.S. 101 cuts south-north through the peninsula from San Jose and across the Golden Gate Bridge to points north. If you drive from Los Angeles, you can take the longer coastal route along Highway 1 (about 455 miles, 10 hours) or the inland I-5 route (381 miles and 6 hours). From Mendocino, the drive to San Francisco is 154 miles and takes just over 3 hours; from Sacramento, 87 miles and 1 1/2 hours; from Yosemite, 210 miles and 4 hours.

If you are driving and aren’t already a member, it’s worth joining the American Automobile Association (AAA; csaa.com; tel. 800/922-8228). Memberships start as low as $56 per year, and provide roadside and other services, including valuable hotel discounts. Amoco Motor Club (bpmotorclub.com; tel. 800/334-3300) is another recommended choice.

By Train

Traveling by train takes a long time and usually costs as much as, or more than, flying. Still, if you want to take a leisurely ride across America, rail may be a good option and the views can’t be beat.

San Francisco–bound Amtrak (amtrak.com; tel. 800/872-7245) trains leave from New York and cross the country via Chicago. The journey takes about 3 1/2 days, and seats sell quickly. At press time, the lowest one-way fare cost $186 from New York (that’s a reserved seat with no bed and a transfer in Chicago) and $136 from Chicago. If you’re planning a train trip that lasts more than a day, unless you’re a human pretzel and can sleep in the train seats, reserving one of the small but expensive rooms is the way to go. You’ll arrive refreshed and full of stories from the sights you’ll see and the people you’ll meet on the journey. Round-trip tickets from Los Angeles start at $59 and involve two buses and a train. All trains arrive in Emeryville, just north of Oakland, and connect with regularly scheduled buses to San Francisco’s Ferry Building and the Caltrain station in downtown San Francisco at Fourth and Townsend streets. Caltrain (caltrain.com; tel. 800/660-4287) operates train service between San Francisco and cities on the eastern side of the peninsula. 

Neighborhoods in Brief

Fast Facts

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Most of San Francisco’s major museums and tourist attractions have wheelchair ramps. Many hotels offer special accommodations and services for wheelchair users and other visitors with disabilities. As well as the ramps, they include extra-large bathrooms and telecommunication devices for hearing-impaired travelers. The Visitor Information Center should have the most up-to-date information.

Travelers in wheelchairs can request special ramped taxis by calling Yellow Cab (tel. 415/626-2345), which charges regular rates for the service. Travelers with disabilities can also get a free copy of the “Muni Access Guide,” published by the San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency, Accessible Services Program, One South Van Ness, 3rd floor (tel. 415/701-4485), which is staffed weekdays from 8am to 5pm. Many of the major car-rental companies offer hand-controlled cars for drivers with disabilities. Alamo (tel. 800/651-1223), Avis (tel. 800/331-1212, ext. 7305), and Budget (tel. 800/314-3932) have special hotlines that help provide such a vehicle at any of their U.S. locations with 48 hours’ advance notice; Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131) requires between 24 and 72 hours’ advance notice at most locations.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [2255-6677]; www.mossrehab.com), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality;tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel, destination-specific access information, and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent A Car (tel. 800/962-1434) has an “Avis Access” program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine “Emerging Horizons” (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 a year U.S.; $22 outside U.S.).

The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

Getting Around

Here are a few strategies for making your way around the city:

1. San Francisco is really a small city. If you’re in reasonably good shape, and you leave your stilettos at home, you can hoof it quite easily between many of the sights we recommend, without stressing about taxis, buses, cable cars, and such.

2. If you only remember the “F-Line” historic streetcar, you will be able to get almost anywhere you want to go in the Eastern half of the city. The F-Line starts at the Castro, close to Mission Dolores in the Mission District, and runs northwest “up” Market Street to within a couple of blocks of City Hall, the Asian Arts Museum, and many of the performing arts venues in the Civic Center area. The route continues along Market Street to the Union Square area and the Yerba Buena District, through the Financial District, and on to the historic Ferry Building. Then the F-Line turns left, running along the Embarcadero past the Exploratorium, past streets leading to Coit Tower in North Beach, and on to Pier 39 and the rest of Fisherman’s Wharf, where the route ends. Add in the no. 5 Fulton bus, which runs east-west from downtown to the ocean, and you have most of the city covered with only two routes to remember.

3. If all else fails, use your smartphone to search 511.org. You can input your current and desired addresses and this foolproof site will give you all your public transportation options—and tell you when the next vehicle will be along to save you.

By Public Transportation

The  San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency, better known as “Muni” (sfmta.com; tel. 311, or 415/701-2311 outside San Francisco), operates the city’s cable cars, buses, and streetcars. Together, these three services crisscross the entire city. Fares for buses and streetcars are $2.75 for adults, or $1.35 for seniors 65+, children 5 to 18, and riders with disabilities. Exact change is required on all vehicles except cable cars, which currently make change (there is talk of eliminating cash payment for cable car fares, so be sure to ask before you ride); you can buy tickets in advance on your smartphone using the MuniMobile app (available at sfmta.transitsherpa.com) If you’re standing waiting for Muni and have a smartphone, check nextmuni.com to get up-to-the-minute information about when the next bus or streetcar is coming—Muni’s NextBus uses satellite technology and advanced computer modeling to track vehicles on their routes, with information constantly updated.

For detailed route information, visit sfmta.com, go to the “Getting Around” drop-down menu, and click “Routes and Stops.” Each route has its own map, and when you click on the map, you will see real-time details of bus locations—you can even watch them slowly crawl across your computer screen as they move. For a big-picture look at all Muni routes, click on “Muni System Maps.”

Muni Discounts

Muni discount passes, called Passports, entitle holders to unlimited rides on buses, streetcars, and cable cars. A Passport costs $21 for 1 day, $32 for 3 days, and $42 for 7 consecutive days. There is no discount for children or seniors. Passports are sold at many locations throughout the city (for a list, visit sfmta.com/getting-around/transit). Another option is buying a CityPASS (citypass.com; $89 adults, $66 kids 5–11), which entitles you to unlimited Muni rides for 9 days, and includes admission to four (or five, depending on which you choose) local attractions. These passes are sold online or at any of the CityPASS attractions.

Cable Car These mobile national treasures are truly fun to ride. While they may not be fast (speeds top out at 9 miles per hour), they’ll get you to your destination in style, provided your destination is on their three limited routes, which are concentrated in the downtown area. The most scenic, and exciting, is the Powell–Hyde line, which follows a zigzag route from the corner of Powell and Market streets, over both Nob and Russian hills, to a turntable at Victorian Square in front of Aquatic Park. The Powell–Mason line starts at the same intersection and climbs Nob Hill before descending to Bay Street, just 3 blocks from Fisherman’s Wharf. The third, still scenic but slightly less dramatic, is the California Street line, which begins at the foot of Market Street and runs a straight course through Chinatown and over Nob Hill to Van Ness Avenue. All riders must exit at the last stop and wait in line for the return trip. The cable car system operates from approximately 6am to 1am, and each ride costs $7; passes and MuniMobile tickets are accepted.

Bus Buses reach almost every corner of San Francisco and beyond—they even travel over the bridges to Marin County and Oakland. Overhead electric cables power some buses; others use conventional gas engines. All are numbered and display their destinations on the front. Signs, curb markings, and yellow bands on adjacent utility poles designate stops, and most bus shelters display Muni’s transportation map and schedule. Many buses travel along Market Street or pass near Union Square and run from about 6am to midnight. After midnight, there is infrequent all-night “Owl” service. Unless you’re traveling with a large group, it’s a good idea to avoid taking buses late at night.

Popular tourist routes include bus number 5, which runs to Golden Gate Park; 41 and 45, which travel along Union Street; and 30, which runs between Union Square, Chinatown, Ghirardelli Square, and the Marina District. A bus ride costs $2.75 for adults, or $1.35 for seniors 65+, children 5 to 18, and riders with disabilities; exact change is required.

Streetcar Six of Muni’s seven streetcar lines, designated J, KT, L, M, and N, run underground downtown and on the streets in the outer neighborhoods. The sleek rail cars make the same stops as BART along Market Street, including Embarcadero Station (in the Financial District), Montgomery and Powell streets (both near Union Square), and the Civic Center (near City Hall). Past the Civic Center, the routes branch off: The J line takes you to Mission Dolores; the L and M lines run to Castro Street and beyond; and the N line parallels Golden Gate Park and runs all the way to the Embarcadero and AT&T Park. The K-Ingleside/T-Third Street car runs from Balboa Park through downtown to AT&T Park and the San Francisco Caltrain station and then continues south along Third Street. 

The seventh, and most recently added, line isn’t a newcomer at all; it’s an encore performance of rejuvenated 1930s streetcars from all over the world. The beautiful, retro multicolored F-Market and Wharves streetcar runs from 17th and Castro streets to the Embarcadero; some cars stop there, but every alternate F-line car continues to Jones and Beach streets in Fisherman’s Wharf. This is a quick, charming, and tourist-friendly way to get up and down town without any hassle. 

Streetcars run about every 15 minutes, and more frequently during rush hours. They operate daily from about 4am to 2am, with a few exceptions. Because the operation is part of Muni, the fares are the same as for buses, and passes are accepted.

BART The high-speed rail network Bay Area Rapid Transit (bart.gov; tel. 415/989-2278)—usually just called BART—connects the San Francisco peninsula (starting just south of the airport) with the East Bay—Oakland, Richmond, Concord, Pittsburg, and Fremont. Four stations are in downtown San Francisco along Market Street. One-way fares range from $1.95 to $12.05, depending on distance. (Children 4 and under ride free.) Machines in the stations dispense tickets that are magnetically encoded with a dollar amount, and computerized exits automatically deduct the correct fare. Trains run every 15 to 20 minutes, Monday through Friday from 4am to midnight, Saturday from 6am to midnight, and Sunday from 8am to midnight. On the BART website, you can download a trip planner for smartphone or tablet.

By Taxi

This isn’t New York, so don’t expect a taxi to appear whenever you need one. If you’re downtown during rush hour or leaving a major hotel, it won’t be hard to hail a cab; just look for the lighted sign on the roof that indicates the vehicle is free. Otherwise, it’s a good idea to call one of the following companies to arrange a ride: National Veteran’s Cab (tel. 415/321-TAXI), Luxor Cabs (tel. 415/282-4141), De Soto Cab (tel. 415/970-1300), Green Cab (tel. 415/626-4733), or Yellow Cab (tel. 415/333-3333). Unfortunately, despite the call, you still might be left high and dry. What to do? Call back if your cab is late and insist on attention, but don’t expect prompt results on weekends, no matter how nicely you ask. For an estimate of fares, including an allowance for traffic, visit taxifarefinder.com.

Due, I suspect, to the historically woeful lack of taxis, San Francisco was an early adopter of ride-sharing technologies, such as Lyft and Uber, and today, you’ll see hundreds of vehicles sporting Lyft and Uber stickers on their windshields—especially since even locals have given up driving (and steep parking prices) in exchange for the ease of hopping a shared or private ride. You don’t hail them like you would a cab: You must first download the Uber or Lyft app onto your smartphone, enter your credit card information, and then, via the app, request a ride from wherever you are. A car will pick you up, usually within minutes. You’ll have the option of choosing a shared ride at a lower price or an “express” ride for a bit more; if you’ve got a group of up to six people, you can also request a larger vehicle, at a larger (but still usually reasonable) fee. And the entire transaction is carried out through your smartphone—no need to carry cash!

By Car

You don’t need a car to explore downtown San Francisco. In fact, with the city becoming more crowded by the minute, a car can be your worst nightmare—you’re likely to end up stuck in traffic with lots of frustrated drivers, pay upwards of $50 a day to park (plus a whopping new 14% parking lot tax), and spend a good portion of your vacation looking for a parking space. Don’t bother. 

If you want to venture outside the city, however—perhaps taking a day trip to Napa Valley or Muir Woods—driving is the best way to go. Picking up a car in the city early in the morning and returning it that evening will save a fortune for a family of four. Before heading outside the city, especially in winter, call tel. 800/427-ROAD (7623) for California road conditions. You can also call tel. 511 for current traffic information.

Car Rentals All the national car-rental companies operate in the city and have desks at the airports. Companies include Alamo (alamo.com; tel. 800/651-1223), Avis (avis.com; tel. 800/352-7900), Budget (budget.com; tel. 800/218-7992), Dollar (dollar.com; tel. 800/800-5252), Enterprise (enterprise.com; tel. 855/266-9289), Hertz (hertz.com; tel. 800/654-4173), National (nationalcar.com; tel. 800/227-7368), and Thrifty (thrifty.com; tel. 800/367-2277). Most car rental agencies have a minimum-age requirement—usually age 25. Some also have a maximum-age limit. If you’re concerned that these limits might affect you, ask about rental requirements at the time of booking to avoid problems later.

Car-rental rates vary even more than airline fares. Prices depend on the size of the car, where and when you pick up and drop off, the length of the rental period, where and how far you drive it, whether you buy insurance, and a host of other factors. A few key questions can save you hundreds of dollars, but you have to ask—reservations agents don’t often volunteer money-saving information:

• Are weekend rates lower than weekday rates? Ask if the rate is the same for pickup Friday morning, for instance, as it is for Thursday night.
• Does the agency assess a drop-off charge if you don’t return the car to the same location where you picked it up?
• Are special promotional rates available? If you see an advertised price in your local newspaper, be sure to ask for that specific rate; otherwise, you could be charged the standard rate. Terms change constantly.
• Are discounts available for members of AARP, AAA, frequent-flier programs, or trade unions? If you belong to any of these organizations, you may be entitled to discounts of up to 30%.
• How much tax will be added to the rental bill? Will there be local tax and state tax?
• How much does the rental company charge to refill your gas tank if you return with the tank less than full? Most rental companies claim their prices are “competitive,” but fuel is almost always cheaper in town, so try to allow enough time to refuel the car before returning it. Some companies offer “refueling packages,” in which you pay for an entire tank of gas upfront; the cost is usually fairly competitive with local prices, but you don’t get credit for any gas remaining in the tank. If a stop at a gas station on the way to the airport will make you miss your plane, then by all means take advantage of the fuel purchase option. Otherwise, skip it.

Safe Driving

Here are a few quick tips for safe California driving:

• California law requires that drivers and passengers all wear seat belts.
• California law also requires that any cellphone use while driving, including GPS for navigation, must be completely hands-free.
• You can turn right at a red light (unless otherwise indicated), after yielding to traffic and pedestrians, and after coming to a complete stop.
• Cable cars always have the right of way, as do pedestrians at intersections and crosswalks.
• Pay attention to signs and arrows on the streets and roadways or you might suddenly find yourself in a lane that requires exiting or turning when you want to go straight. San Francisco’s many one-way streets can drive you in circles, but most road maps of the city indicate which way traffic flows.

Insurance Make sure you’re insured. Hasty assumptions about your personal auto insurance or a rental agency’s additional coverage could end up costing you tens of thousands of dollars, even if you are involved in an accident that is clearly the fault of another driver. 

If you already have your own car insurance, you are most likely covered in the United States for loss of or damage to a rental car and liability in case of injury to any other party involved in an accident. Be sure to check your policy before you spend extra money (around $10 or more per day) on the collision damage waiver (CDW) offered by all agencies.

If you use a major credit card (especially gold and platinum cards) to pay for the rental, it may provide some coverage as well. Terms vary widely, so call your credit card company directly, before you rent, to learn if you can rely on the card for coverage. If you are uninsured, your credit card may provide primary coverage as long as you decline the rental agency’s insurance. If you already have insurance, your credit card may provide secondary coverage, which basically covers your deductible. However, note that credit cards will not cover liability, which is the cost of injury to an outside party and/or damage to an outside party’s vehicle. If you don’t hold an insurance policy, seriously consider buying the rental company’s additional liability insurance, even if you decline the CDW.

International visitors If you’re visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver’s licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver’s license. Also note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Ask your rental agency about these additional fees—they can add a significant cost to your rental car.

Parking If you want to have a relaxing vacation, don’t even attempt to find street parking on Nob Hill, in North Beach, in Chinatown, by Fisherman’s Wharf, or on Telegraph Hill. Park in a garage (ideally using one of the many parking-garage-finding apps, which often offer discounts if you buy before you arrive) and use cabs or buses to get around.

If you do find street parking, pay attention to street signs that explain when you can park and for how long, and don’t forget to put money in your parking meter, if there is one. If you don’t have cash, you can use a credit card. Be especially careful not to park in tow zones during rush hours. 

Curb colors indicate parking regulations. Red means no stopping or parking, blue is reserved for drivers with disabilities who have a disabled plate or placard, white is reserved for non-commercial loading zones (there’s a 5-min. limit and the driver must stay in the vehicle), green indicates a 10-minute limit, and yellow and yellow-and-black curbs are commercial loading zones reserved for vehicles with commercial plates (yellow zones are often enforced only during business hours, so check for signs or curb stencils that list hours of enforcement). Also, don’t park at a bus stop or in front of a fire hydrant, and watch out for street-cleaning signs. Note: No parking in red zones means that your car should be completely outside of the red; even a few centimeters can result in a ticket or a tow. Residents, already annoyed because their driveways are often partially blocked, can be quick to call a tow truck.

If you violate the law, you might get a hefty ticket or your car might be towed; to get your car back, you’ll have to get a release from the nearest district police department and then go to the towing company to pick up the vehicle. 

When parking on a hill, curb your wheels—turn them toward the curb when facing downhill, away from the curb when facing uphill. Curbing your wheels not only prevents a possible “runaway” but also keeps you from getting a ticket—an expensive fine that is aggressively enforced.

Park Smart

In a high-tech city like San Francisco, it only follows there would be a way to use your computer or smartphone to help find parking. Sfpark.org is an award-winning website (a mobile app is available too) that collects and displays real-time information about available parking in the city, in an effort to stop people from driving in circles and polluting our city while hunting for a spot. You can look at a map of the city parking garages; get addresses, directions, and hourly prices; and even see how many spots are available inside each garage. If you hit the green “pricing” key, it will show dark green for more expensive garages and light green for the less expensive places. For metered street parking, the map will show red in areas of limited street parking, navy for some availability, and light turquoise for good availability. For both garage and metered parking, prices are regularly adjusted up or down monthly, depending on demand.

By Ferry

To/From Sausalito or Larkspur The Golden Gate Ferry Service fleet (goldengateferry.org; tel. 415/455-2000) shuttles passengers daily between the San Francisco Ferry Building, at the foot of Market Street, and downtown Sausalito, Tiburon, or Larkspur. Service is frequent, departing at reasonable intervals every day of the year (Tiburon service is weekdays only) except January 1, Thanksgiving Day, and December 25. Phone or check the website for an exact schedule. The ride takes about half an hour. One-way fares to Sausalito or Tiburon are $12 for adults, $6 for seniors 65+, youth ages 5 to 18, and passengers with disabilities. One-way fares to Larkspur are $11.50 adults, $5.75 seniors, youth, and passengers with disabilities. Children 4 and under travel free when accompanied by a full-fare paying adult (limit two kids per adult).

Ferries of the Blue & Gold Fleet (blueandgoldfleet.com; tel. 415/773-1188 for recorded info) provide round-trip service to downtown Sausalito, Tiburon, and Angel Island. For Sausalito or Tiburon, the one-way fare is $12.50 for adults, $7.50 for seniors 65+ and youth 5–11. The Angel Island ferry costs $9.75 adults one-way, $5.50 seniors and youth. Boats run on a seasonal schedule, so check the website for details. Boats leave from Pier 41, and tickets can be purchased at the pier.

To/From Oakland or Alameda The San Francisco Bay Ferry fleet (sanfranciscobayferry.com; tel. 415/705-8291) runs a daily route that connects Pier 41, the San Francisco Ferry Building, Alameda, and Oakland’s Jack London Square; some routes also include AT&T Park. Phone or check the website for an exact schedule, as it changes with the seasons. The rides to Oakland and Alameda take just over half an hour. One-way fares to Oakland and Alameda are $6.80 for adults, $63.40 for seniors 65+, youth ages 5 to 18, and passengers with disabilities. 

Earthquake Advice

Although San Francisco does lie in an earthquake zone, these are rare events. If an earthquake does happen while you are in the Bay Area, however, don’t panic. If you’re in a tall building, don’t run outside; instead, move away from windows and toward the building’s center. Crouch under a desk or table, or stand against a wall or under a doorway. If you’re in bed, get under the bed, stand in a doorway, or crouch under a sturdy piece of furniture. When exiting the building, use stairwells, not elevators. If you’re in your car, pull over to the side of the road and stop, but wait until you’re away from bridges or overpasses, as well as telephone or power poles and lines. Stay in your car. If you’re outside, stay away from trees, power lines, and the sides of buildings.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn’t mean it’ll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation’s fragmented cellphone system). It’s a good bet that your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at your wireless company’s coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won’t work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com), but be aware that airtime is pricey.

If you’re not from the U.S., you’ll be appalled at the poor reach of our GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won’t work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage/national_popup.asp. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

Telephones

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from a pay phones cost 50¢ that is, if you can find one. They are a dying breed; only about 200 remain in the city. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive—charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (“Information”), dial tel. 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Many cafes have wireless access, as do most hotels. For a huge list of free Wi-Fi hotspots—including every Starbucks and Peet’s coffee shop, Barnes and Noble, FedEx office, and McDonald’s—visit wififreespot.com; log onto cybercafe.com for a list of internet cafes in San Francisco. All San Francisco libraries are completely wired, including the San Francisco Main Library (100 Larkin St.; tel. 415/557-4400), which in 2015 became the first 10 gigabit library in the country, providing visitors and staff with the fastest internet speeds of any library. San Francisco International Airport has wireless access, and many of the city’s public parks have free Wi-Fi (for a list, go to sfgov.org/sfc/sanfranciscowifi).

Calendar of Events

Chinese New Year, Chinatown. Public celebrations spill onto every street in Chinatown, beginning with the “Miss Chinatown USA” pageant parade, and climaxing a week later with a celebratory parade of marching bands, rolling floats, barrages of fireworks, and a block-long dragon writhing in and out of the crowds. The action starts at Market and Second streets and ends at Kearny Street. Arrive early for a good viewing spot on Kearny Street. You can purchase bleacher seats online starting in December; for dates and information, call [tel] 415/680-6297 or visit www.chineseparade.com.

March

St. Patrick’s Day Parade, Union Square, and Civic Center. Everyone’s an honorary Irish person at this festive affair, which starts at 11:30am at Market and Second streets and continues to City Hall. But the party doesn’t stop there. Head down to the Civic Center for the post-party, or venture to the Embarcadero’s Harrington’s Bar & Grill (245 Front St.) and celebrate with hundreds of Irish-for-a-day yuppies as they gallivant around the closed-off streets and numerous pubs. Sunday before March 17. 

April

Cherry Blossom Festival, Japantown. Meander through the arts-and-crafts and food booths lining the blocked-off streets around Japan Center and watch traditional drumming, flower arranging, origami making, and a parade celebrating the cherry blossoms and Japanese culture. Call [tel] 415/563-2313 or visit sfcherryblossom.org for information. Mid- to late April.

San Francisco International Film Festival, around San Francisco Begun in 1957, this is America’s longest running film festival, with screenings at the Sundance Kabuki Cinemas (Fillmore and Post sts.), and at many other locations. It features close to 200 films and videos from more than 50 countries. Tickets are relatively inexpensive, and screenings are accessible to the public. Entries include new films by beginning and established directors, and star-studded tributes. For a schedule and to purchase tickets, visit sffilm.org. Early April.

May

Cinco de Mayo Festival, Mission District. victory of the Mexicans over the French at Puebla in 1862, mariachi bands, dancers, food, and revelers fill the streets of the Mission. The celebration is usually on Valencia Street between 21st and 24th streets. Contact the Mission Neighborhood Center for more information at [tel] 415/206-7752 or mncsf.org/sfcincodemayo.

Bay to Breakers Foot Race, the Embarcadero through Golden Gate Park to Ocean Beach. Even if you don’t participate, you can’t avoid this giant, moving costume party (which celebrated its 106th year in 2017) that goes from downtown to Ocean Beach. More than 75,000 participants gather—many dressed in wacky, innovative, and sometimes X-rated costumes—for the approximately 7 1/2-mile run. If you don’t want to run, join the throng of spectators who line the route. Sidewalk parties, bands, and cheerleaders of all ages provide a good dose of true San Francisco fun. For more information, call [tel] 415/231-3130, or check their website, baytobreakers.com. Third Sunday of May.

Carnaval Festival, Harrison St. between 16th and 23rd Sts. The Mission District’s largest annual event, held from 9:30am to 6pm and celebrating 40 years of fun in 2018, is a weekend of festivities that includes food, music, dance, arts and crafts, and a parade that’s as sultry and energetic as the Latin American and Caribbean people behind it. It’s one of San Franciscans’ favorite events, with more than half a million spectators lining the parade route; samba musicians and dancers continue to entertain on 14th Street, near Harrison, at the end of the march, where you’ll find food and craft booths, music, and more revelry. Call [tel] 415/206-0577 for more information. Celebrations are held Saturday and Sunday of Memorial Day weekend, but the parade is on Sunday morning only. See carnavalsf.org for more information.

Bottle Rock Napa Valley, Napa. Held over Memorial Day weekend, this multi-day music, food, and wine festival draws tens of thousands to see the likes of Stevie Wonder, Foo Fighters, Maroon 5, Warren G, Death Cab for Cutie, and dozens of other bands, who perform on multiple stages backed by an awesome array of gourmet foods (and appearances by famed chefs) and local wines. Not surprising, accommodations in the area are wildly expensive during this time, but those in the crowd say the fun-in-the-sun-loving weekend is worth the expense. Held Memorial Day weekend. For more information see bottlerocknapavalley.com.

June

Union Street Art Festival, Pacific Heights along Union Street from Steiner to Gough streets. This outdoor fair celebrates San Francisco with gourmet food booths, music, entertainment, and a juried art show featuring works by more than 250 artists. It’s a great time and a chance to see the city’s young well-to-dos partying it up. Call the Union Street Association ([tel] 415/441-7055) for more information or see unionstreetfestival.com. First weekend of June.

Haight-Ashbury Street Fair, Haight-Ashbury. A far cry from the froufrou Union Street Fair (see above), this grittier fair features alternative crafts, ethnic foods, rock bands, and a healthy number of hippies and street kids whooping it up and slamming beers in front of the blaring rock-'n’-roll stage. The fair usually extends along Haight Street between Stanyan and Ashbury streets. For details, visit haightashburystreetfair.org. Second Sunday of June.

North Beach Festival, Grant Ave., North Beach. In 2018, this party celebrates its 64th anniversary; organizers claim it’s one of the oldest outdoor festivals in the country. More than 100,000 city folk meander along Grant Avenue, between Vallejo and Union streets, to eat, drink, and browse the arts-and-crafts booths, poetry readings, swing-dancing venue, and arte di gesso (sidewalk chalk art). The most enjoyable parts of the event? Listening to music and people-watching. Visit sresproductions.com/events/north-beach-festival.

Stern Grove Music Festival, Sunset District. Pack a picnic and head out early to join the thousands who come here to lie in the grass and enjoy free world-class classical, jazz, and ethnic music and dance in the grove, at 19th Avenue and Sloat Boulevard. The free concerts take place every Sunday at 2pm between mid-June and August. Show up with a lawn chair or blanket. There are food booths if you forget snacks, but you’ll be dying to leave if you don’t bring warm clothes—the Sunset District can be one of the coldest parts of the city. Call [tel] 415/252-6252 for listings or go to sterngrove.org. Sundays, mid-June through August.

San Francisco Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender Pride Parade & Celebration, downtown’s Market St. This prideful event draws up to one million participants who celebrate all of the above—and then some. The parade proceeds west on Market Street until it gets to the Civic Center, where hundreds of food, art, and information booths are set up around several soundstages. Call [tel] 415/864-0831 or visit sfpride.org for information. Usually the third or last weekend of June.

July

Fillmore Jazz Festival, Pacific Heights. July starts with a bang, when the upscale portion of Fillmore closes to traffic and the blocks between Jackson and Eddy streets are filled with arts and crafts, gourmet food, and live jazz from 10am to 6pm. For more information visit fillmorejazzfestival.com. First weekend in July.

Fourth of July Celebration & Fireworks, Fisherman’s Wharf. This event can be something of a joke—more often than not, fog comes into the city, like everyone else, to squelch the festivities. Sometimes it’s almost impossible to view the million-dollar pyrotechnics from Pier 39 on the northern waterfront. Still, it’s a party, and if the skies are clear, it’s a darn good show.

San Francisco Marathon, San Francisco and beyond. One of the largest marathons in the world starts and ends at the Ferry Building at the base of Market Street, winds 26-plus miles through virtually every neighborhood in the city, and crosses the Golden Gate Bridge. For entry information, visit thesfmarathon.com. Usually the last weekend in July.

August

Outside Lands, Golden Gate Park. This annual music event draws about 70,000 people to a vast, fenced-off expanse in Golden Gate Park where multiple stages host 3 days and nights of awesome contemporary music (and comedy) artists, while food and drink stands ensure everyone has every reason to stay for the long haul—as if Metallica, The Who, St. Lucia, and more aren’t enough. Tickets are expensive and sell out quickly, so if you’re planning to go, buy in the second tickets go on sale. See sfoutsidelands.com for more information. Usually in mid-August. 

September

Sausalito Art Festival, Sausalito. A juried exhibit of more than 20,000 original works of art, this festival includes music—usually provided by known, old-school jazz, rock, and blues performers from the Bay Area and beyond—and international cuisine, enhanced by wines from some 50 Napa and Sonoma producers. Parking is difficult; make it easier and take the ferry (blueandgoldfleet.com) from Pier 41 to the festival site. For more information, call [tel] 415/332-3555 or log on to sausalitoartfestival.org. Labor Day weekend.

Opera in the Park. Usually in Sharon Meadow, Golden Gate Park. Each year, the San Francisco Opera launches its season with a free concert featuring a selection of arias. Call [tel] 415/861-4008 or visit sfopera.com to confirm the location and date. Usually the Sunday after Labor Day.

Folsom Street Fair, along Folsom Street between 7th and 12th streets, the area south of Market Street (SoMa, 11am–6pm). This is a local favorite for its kinky, outrageous, leather-and-skin gay-centric blowout celebration. It’s hardcore, so only open-minded and adventurous types need head into the leather-clad and partially dressed crowds. For info visit folsomstreetfair.org. Last Sunday of September.

October

Hardly Strictly Bluegrass, Golden Gate Park’s in Hellman Hollow (formerly Speedway Meadows), Lindley, and Marx meadows. This free annual music event lures thousands into Golden Gate Park for 3 days of awesome music, beer drinking, and pot smoking. It’s about as groovy, happy-go-lucky San Francisco as it gets. Visit hardlystrictlybluegrass.com for info.

Fleet Week, Marina and Fisherman’s Wharf. Residents gather along the Marina Green, the Embarcadero, Fisherman’s Wharf, and other vantage points to watch incredible (and loud!) aerial performances by the Blue Angels and other daring stunt pilots, as well as the annual parade of ships. Call [tel] 415/306-0911 or visit fleetweeksf.org for details and dates.

Artspan Open Studios, various San Francisco locations. Find an original piece of art to commemorate your trip, or just see what local artists are up to by grabbing a map to over 800 artists’ studios that are open to the public during weekends in October and May. Visit artspan.org for more information.

Castro Street Fair, the Castro. Celebrate life in the city’s most famous gay neighborhood. Call [tel] 800/853-5950 or visit castrostreetfair.org for information. First Sunday in October, from 11am to 6pm.

Italian Heritage Parade, North Beach and Fisherman’s Wharf. In 2017, for the 149th year in a row, the city’s Italian community leads festivities around Fisherman’s Wharf celebrating Columbus’s landing in America with a parade along Columbus Avenue. But for the most part, it’s a great excuse to hang out in North Beach and people-watch. For more information, visit sfcolumbusday.org. Observed the Sunday before Columbus Day.

Halloween, the Castro. This once-huge street party has been tamed down by city officials in the past decade to curb violence and prevent the increasing influx of out-of-towners into the neighborhood. Castro denizens still whoop it up with music and drag costume contests, but if you go to gawk, you may be disappointed. October 31.

November

Napa Valley Film Festival. Held in intimate venues throughout Napa County, this 5-day festival features 100-plus films and an abundance of food, wine, and music festivities. Tickets range from single screenings starting at $20 to event passes that start at $295 and go up to $2,500 for VIP access. Visit nvff.org for information. Usually the second week of November. 

December

The Nutcracker, War Memorial Opera House, Civic Center. The San Francisco Ballet (tel. 415/865-2000) performs this Tchaikovsky classic annually. (It was actually the first ballet company in America to do so, in 1944.) Order tickets to this holiday tradition well in advance. Visit sfballet.org for information.

SantaCon, various San Francisco locations. Get into the holiday spirit and join thousands of wannabe Santas as they booze their way across the city. Dress up as Santa, Mrs. Clause, an elf, or your own interpretation for a full day of drinking, singing, and being merry. This is an adults-only pub crawl that, true to San Francisco style, includes nudity. The time, date, and location change annually and the details are released only a few days before the event, so follow SantaCon on twitter or check out the website at santacon.info/San_Francisco-CA.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports -- Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; see www.getyouhome.gov for details).

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office,Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Frederick Buildings, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. +353 1 671 1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie.

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, Level 3, 109 Featherston St., Wellington, 6040 (tel. 0800 22 50 50 in New Zealand or +64 (4) 463 9360; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the HM Passport Office, 4th Floor, Peel Building, 2 Marsham St., London, SW1P 4DF (tel. 0300/222-0000;www.ips.gov.uk).

United States-- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english.html) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Republic of Korea, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/content/visas/english.html.) Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is one US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn’t have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/content/visas/english.html. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission’s website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 020 3608 6998 from within the U.K. or tel. 703/439-2367 from within the U.S. or by visiting the “Visas” section of the American Embassy London’s website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 353 1 668 8777 from within the Republic of Ireland; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Medical Requirements

Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Nearly every attraction in San Francisco offers a senior discount; age requirements vary. Public transportation and movie theaters also have reduced rates. Don’t be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry some kind of identification, such as a driver’s license, that shows your date of birth.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including “AARP The Magazine” and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine “Travel 50 & Beyond” (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback “Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 2009–2010 Edition” (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Money

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted were correct at press time. Since rates fluctuate, before departing it is a good idea to consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The Value of the U.S. Dollar vs. Other Popular Currencies

• US$ 1

• Can$ 1.10

• UK£ 0.60

• Euro€ 0.72

• Aus$ 1.07

• NZ$ 1.16

What Things Cost in San Francisco (US$)

• Taxi from SFO to downtown: $60

• Inexpensive hotel room, double occupancy: $150 and under

• Moderate hotel room, double occupancy:$150–$275

• Cup of small coffee (Peet’s or Starbucks): $2

• 1 gallon of regular gas: $3.75–4

• Admission to museums: $10–$35

• Glass of Napa Valley red wine: $10–$15

• Bus or streetcar fare for adults: $2.75

• Cable car fare: $7

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in San Francisco: Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (Eurocard in Europe, Access in Britain, Chargex in Canada), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses and offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash.

It’s highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

ATM cards with major credit card backing, known as “debit cards,” are now a commonly acceptable form of payment in most stores and restaurants. Debit cards draw money directly from your checking account. Some stores enable you to receive cash back on your debit-card purchases as well. The same is true at most U.S. post offices. Make sure your rental car company accepts debit cards; some require you to have a very large dollar amount available for them to “hold” until you return the vehicle in perfect shape. Other rental car companies do not accept debit cards.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

The important advice is to check with your bank before you travel, to find out about any fees and let them know you're going (so you don't find yourself turned away as a fraud at the ATM).